Main.TrailIndexPage | Transmission and Clutch | Clutch


This component is part of Transmission and Clutch.


Define the component. Include, if known, the german language word for the component, as well as the English or American equivalent. Show a picture, a diagram.

  • Its technical name & common name(s)
  • part # - start year & end year
  • which area it belongs to - engine, transmission, body, injection etc, link back to the relevant section


Describe, in general terms the function of this component. Meaning what is it there for and what role it plays. Describe how it works, the inside mechanism. Use diagrams to explain.


Describe common maintenance procedures, and common faults that may occur. Describe how these may be diagnosed and resolved. Again, include diagrams, photographs and explanations. Where possible, include measures, tolerances, weights etc.

  • Symptoms when it faults
  • How to test if it is faulty - what tools to use
  • How to fix / change

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Old Yahoo content

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My car was stopped for a year or so before I bought it, and I read in the Haynes manual that it is important to change the clutch fluid in order to avoid corrossion in the inside of the clutch but I didn't have clear how to do it and if it is really necessary, any experiences?

Any here have experience in changing the liquid of the clutch? I have to change it as I notice problems such as the pedal not returning after pushing it in and I think that putting in new fresh liquid instead of the old one may help, or no ... ?

Will Samples says: a pressure bleeder is a good way to go. You attach it to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder bolted to the transmission. That way you will be forcing the air bubbles up. If you do not have a pressure bleeder, then take a hose and run it from a front caliper bleed screw and attach it to the slave cylinder bleed screw. Then use the brakes as a pressure bleeder. Trying to bleed the clutch by pumping the clutch pedal is about impossible.

In my experience, when the clutch pedal starts sticking to the floor and starts providing less clutch disengagement due to leaking, air in the lines, etc., it may be time to rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Rebuild kits are available for $20 and it takes about 1/2 hour to do. But it takes about an additional hour to remove and install the clutch master cylinder.

Frank Mallory says: overhaul is indicated when it sticks at the floor. But you have an overtravel spring arrangement that sometimes causes the pedal to stick about 2" from the release point, and this can usually be corrected with lubricant and adjusting the slave cylinder rod to give the correct free play.

Hans Strom: some of you may have had problems with your clutches. I offer this posting about bleeding the hydraulic clutch on our manual W113's, that I also sent to another list: I had this problem of the clutch pedal sticking for several years, asked the list and many M-B club friends about it. Changed the clutch hydraulic hose, reverse and pressure bled many times - problem remaining. It was not solved until after the re-seal procedure: clean out and exchange the seals in the master and slave cylinders in the clutch. This can give a marked improvement! Now, my gears go in real smooth and even reverse can be engaged without the slightest rattle. The symptom I sometimes had with the clutch pedal not returning fully up back past the "hump" is also a thing of the past. The W113 has the separate system for the clutch hydraulics. Procedure: Drain out fluid via slave cylinder bleed valve. Take the master and slave cylinders off the car, and open them up. Some goey stuff may hide in there ... Clean everything with alcohol and hone any surface rust away from the inside of the slave and master cylinders. The valve body in the master cylinder should be cleaned thoroughly, and the fluid passageways in it and in the cylinder walls should be clean. Dry out with compressed air. Then put the new seals on, very carefully. Be sure not to use sharp objects (e.g. small screwdriver) when you put the seals on, to ensure seals end up in position unharmed. Use a wooden or soft plastic pin. Check direction - flange of seal towards the fluid! Re-assemble with some ATE brake cylinder paste on the seals, and then fill with brake fluid. The system has to be filled from below. I used the method suggested by Chris Maher with a small pump type oil can with its outgoing hose attached to the slave cylinder bleed valve. The only trouble was a sore thumb (lots and lots of pump strokes) and the paint on the outside of the pump can slowly dissolve, making a mess...

On clutch replacement, Joe Alexander states: before beginning the job I would gather up the following parts; clutch disc, clutch pressure plate, clutch throwout bearing, crankshaft centering bearing, transmission front and rear main seals. A new lock plate #186-262-0173 for the transmission spanner nut is useful. It is also a good time to replace those shifter bushings. Be prepared to obtain a driveshaft flex disc and a rear transmission mount kit #113-586-0024, if needed. Sometimes re-surfacing the flywheel is necessary but not usually. As far as special tools, a clutch alignment shaft is needed ( I use an old 113 transmission shaft, fourth gear) and a special four pronged spanner socket is needed to remove the transmission flange in order to replace the rear transmission seal. It is well worth the $30 from Mercedes. It is very important to get this spanner nut tight, it should always be checked anyway, during re-assembly. The speedometer will not work and the transmission can be damaged if this nut is loose. The standard 113 transmission should be filled with automatic transmission fluid. I will try to describe the process soon.

I recently had some work done on my car and it was explained to me that the flywheel on my car was not properly balanced. I am not sure of the procedure but, the machine shop fee was $250 US and not every machine shop has the proper equipment. It made quite a difference in the ride. I would suggest inquiring about this.
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