Author Topic: Cold Start Valve repair  (Read 1601 times)

col320ce

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Cold Start Valve repair
« on: March 19, 2025, 02:26:45 »
I thought I'd share my repair of the injector nozzle of the CSV.  Basically one of the nozzles was missing and it was dribbling fuel.  The photos are pretty self-explanatory but:
I found a brass screw with an unthreaded portion that was the correct diameter (~4.6mm).
Drilled a 0.85mm hole down the centre.
Cut it to about 4.5mm long. 
Put it in the chuck of a drill and used sandpaper to make it slightly conical (1000 grit)
Cut a slot in the back of it to help fuel flow
Pressed it in using a wood vice
Cleaned the spring and valve and bench-tested the solenoid with a 12V battery
Last photo shows the position I was testing it in. The air connection at the back is disconnected. (it's actually a photo of the other car)
Turned the ignition on without starting the car to check that there were no leaks or dribbles.
Started the car in the test position to check the nozzle spray etc.
The jet is not quite as strong as the original but the car starts perfectly now.  I think if the groove in the back was deeper or a section was cut out it would have improved the fuel flow.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2025, 02:36:28 by col320ce »
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline
And George, the infamous 1992 Ford Laser

col320ce

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2025, 02:27:10 »
.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2025, 02:34:19 by col320ce »
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline
And George, the infamous 1992 Ford Laser

col320ce

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2025, 02:35:05 »
.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline
And George, the infamous 1992 Ford Laser

ja17

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2025, 03:54:05 »
Very resourceful Col !
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

yves

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2025, 07:15:54 »
Nice job…! Drilling so small 🥶
Happy owner of a 69 blue 280SL ,  63 FHC  osb E-type , 55 FHC XK 140 to be restored...

stickandrudderman

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2025, 08:29:11 »
I like it!
Only slight concern is to be confident enough in the interference fit to ensure that the new jet doesn't fall out and get ingested.

mdsalemi

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2025, 14:50:09 »
I thought I'd share my repair of the injector nozzle of the CSV.  Basically one of the nozzles was missing and it was dribbling fuel.  The photos are pretty self-explanatory but:
I found a brass screw with an unthreaded portion that was the correct diameter (~4.6mm).
Drilled a 0.85mm hole down the centre.
Cut it to about 4.5mm long. 
Put it in the chuck of a drill and used sandpaper to make it slightly conical (1000 grit)
Cut a slot in the back of it to help fuel flow
Pressed it in using a wood vice
Cleaned the spring and valve and bench-tested the solenoid with a 12V battery
Last photo shows the position I was testing it in. The air connection at the back is disconnected. (it's actually a photo of the other car)
Turned the ignition on without starting the car to check that there were no leaks or dribbles.
Started the car in the test position to check the nozzle spray etc.
The jet is not quite as strong as the original but the car starts perfectly now.  I think if the groove in the back was deeper or a section was cut out it would have improved the fuel flow.

Nice work! This would be a great writeup for one of our publications (Pagoda World or Pagoda Notes) and also for inclusion in the tech manual.
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

col320ce

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2025, 16:58:11 »
Thanks!
It's a tight fit. I don't have any real concerns with it falling out.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline
And George, the infamous 1992 Ford Laser

Lori

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Lori
1968 280SL (US)

wwheeler

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2025, 04:41:21 »
Nice work Col! If you ever have a metal to metal press fit that you don't want to come out, use a bearing retainer fluid. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555338-Temperature-Bearing-36-milliliter/dp/B00070LQWE

There are a lot of different compounds. 
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

col320ce

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2025, 09:59:29 »
I didn't think to add Loctite. Great suggestion.

I actually used the replacement needle from niemoller however it leaked but didn't after cleaning and reusing the original.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline
And George, the infamous 1992 Ford Laser

col320ce

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2025, 13:14:10 »
Another thing I was thinking of changing if I had to repeat the exercise would be to make the drilled hole slightly conical (wider at the back) as I think this would increase the velocity of the fuel flow through the nozzle.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline
And George, the infamous 1992 Ford Laser

Kevkeller

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Re: Cold Start Valve repair
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2025, 16:56:22 »
I wonder where the original went?
1970 280 SL