Author Topic: CSV testing  (Read 4258 times)

Joe

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CSV testing
« on: October 10, 2003, 17:51:45 »
The previous postings tell how to test the CSV by removing it with all lines attached. Mine has two large metal pipes to it, and they appear to be inflexible. I'm assuming the testing is done by removing the plate attached by three allen-head screws.
If I'm doing this right, should I just pull the whole thing out of the intake manifold and bend the pipes in the process?
Maybe this isn't the CSV....
Thanks!
Joe

jeffc280sl

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Re: CSV testing
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2003, 18:21:48 »
Hi Joe,

I would start with the most simple test first.  With a cold engine, less than 35 degrees C,  hook up a test lamp to the lug on the cold start valve and ground the second lead.  Turn on the ignition.  While the starter is engaged the test lamp should be lit.  Once the car has started and the starter has disengaged the test light should go out.  If the car is very cold like -20 degrees C the test light will stay on a maximum of 12 seconds.  If this test works as described you have confirmed that the cold start relay and thermo time switch are operational.  If the test fails the problem is in one of these devices or with the wiring.

I took my cold start valve off the intake manifold to inspect and clean it.  It was in great shape so I probably didn't need to do it.  The two lines running to and from the CSV are fuel lines.  Do not bend these lines.  If you do remove the CSV you will need to make new gaskets for the valve to manifold and the solenoid to valve.  The CSV is pretty simple.  I have some pictures of the device if you would like them.  Send me your email address and I'll send them to you.  Mine is lax882@aol.com.

Good luck
,

Jeff

Benz Dr.

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Re: CSV testing
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2003, 21:47:52 »
The small line is a low pressure fuel line and the bigger line that runs around the back of the engine is an air line.
You can remove the hose and top o the air filter canister and move the throttle valve to the fully opened position. Using a mirror and a light you can see if the valve is actually working by running a wire to the solenoid from the positive terminal on the battery. No need to take anything apart.
Just because you have power at the valve doesn't mean that it works. I've seen them be plugged up, solenoid not open the valve and the fuel line running to the CSV be plugged with dirt and rust
 ( a new one seen just today )
The car should start right away regardless of how cold out or how long it's been sitting or you have some sort of fuel delivery problem.

Dan c

Daniel G Caron
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
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