Author Topic: Fuel pump casing arm  (Read 1777 times)

Chris_ATL

  • Guest
Fuel pump casing arm
« on: November 02, 2017, 14:12:41 »
Hi,

I'm reviving my Pagoda, and since it's been sitting for a few years, so I'm replacing all the usual things to make sure I don't damage it, particularly the fuel system. I've drained the fuel tank replaced all filters etc and am in the process of rebuilding the fuel pump... Except it's missing one of the arms that attach the casing which covers the motor and attaches to the main body of the pump - looks like it was over torqued as part of a shoddy "restoration" - see picture. I've no idea how it was not leaking

1) Does anyone think this can be repaired?

2) Does anyone know where i can get spare parts? (just a casing, not a whole pump)

3) Does anyone have a casing from a dead pump they would be willing to sell?




Thanks!

Iconic

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, IL, Highland Park
  • Posts: 1198
  • ex-Membership Administrator
Re: Fuel pump casing arm
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2017, 17:44:56 »
Contact BaronYoungman.
He knows a lot about these pumps (he did a demonstration at the PUB2017 in VA).
Disclaimer: He is a friend of mine. But, do a search on this forum and you will see he knows his stuff !!
1970 280 SL Automatic, USA version, Grey-Blue (906G/906G), Blue leather (245)
1968 SS396 Camaro Convertible (owned since 1977 -- my first car :D)
1984 Porsche Euro Carrera coupe, LSD, SlateBlueMet/Blue
1998 BMW M-Rdstr Estoril Blue
1970 280 SL Automatic, Anthracite Grey-173G, Red Interior-132 - sold

BaronYoungman

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, IL, Joliet
  • Posts: 597
  • Veronica...
Re: Fuel pump casing arm
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2017, 14:43:57 »
If you are going to weld, less is more,  don't worry about the depth as much as the alignment.  There is plenty of wiggle room for the long nut, we will call it, to go down into the center piece without interfering with anything, but you have to make sure it is correct left/right or else the can will sit at an angle and not seal.  I would suggest in this case to get some Dirko and as messy as it is use that along with the o ring to get a good seal.  DO NOT GET THE DIRKO INSIDE THE CAN, but on the outside it might look bad but will seal.  Set sit 24 hours after assembling before testing to make sure the Dirko dried.
Bob
Bob "Baron" Youngman
1971 280 SL silver  1 car 0 boxes
1983 500sec Wheeler Dealer AMG Widebody
1985 500sec Paris Autoshow AMG coupe
1994 320sl wifes car
1988 560sec  Japan "Yakuza Car"