Rustproofing and underbody sealing

[Drewtee]

i've have decided that i must get the underside of my very dry and unprotected California car sealed against the European weather, i want to get this done correcty and by a specialist.

Few questions:

Firstly, is 'Waxoyl' or 'Dinitrol  the best option. I would want to go for a clear protection if possible?
How Long does it last before it needs refreshing?
Any specialists recommended in the South East, if not i'll go to RE.

Thanks in advance

Andy

[JamesL]

Have a chat with Paul at Classic Preservation - not the South East but knows the cars and where to protect them. Dinitrol is his choice

[Drewtee]

Thanks James, i'll contact him shortly. Its a bit of a drive but looks a specialist so worthwhile.

[RickM]

My preference for long term protection is what Porsche and BMW has used for years;  Wurth Body Schutz. You can apply yourself with an inexpensive gun which screws right on to the product canister.

Unfortunately it is not clear.

[Ulf]

Just make sure that they don't cover all the grease nipples in black gunk as it is a pain in the xxx to remove - I owe my mechanic a new t-shirt!
Generally the best process is to first use a thin oil that will seep into every nook and cranny to strangle any rust that might be there and then a thicker product afterwards. I had it done withour having any holes drilled, but I'm not 100% sure how they have reached every cavity without it - any comments on that as I too want to rest assured that there is no hidden rust growing out of sight?

[IXLR8]

Why not just make your own "waxoyl"?

Here's the recipe for "home brew":


1 pound paraffin wax (use some toilet sealing rings at about $1 each)

2 liters of turpintine or diesel fuel

1 liter of non detergent oil

put the mixture in YOUR crock pot (not the wife's), make small batches, and simmer unitl wax has melted or until the gentle smell of petrolium products alerts the neighbors.

Brush on or use a sprayer. WEAR GOGGLES

Of course a clean vehicle makes this process much more effective. As does having access to a lift, if you have to crawl under there, expect to get extremely dirty.

Really apply it in every nook, allow to drip, as the turpentine evaporates the mixture will thicken and hold.

[stickandrudderman]

Correct application doesn't always involve drilling holes, but does give more reliable access to hidden areas.
I use proprietory wax oil that's applied with an air gun through a long reach nozzle (on the end of a flex hose).
It surprises me that not many people offer this service, as it's not that difficult. Perhaps it's a fear of customer's expectations?
The trouble is if you're applying it to a 40 year old car then you can over evr hope to slow the rust down, not eliminate it.
I use an excellent product called brunox to stabilse rust, but it's expensive...

[Ulf]

Isn't Brunox something you paint on to rust to form a new surface for painting like POR15? For underbody and cavity protection, some people here use linseed oil mixed with alcohol as this is supposedly both very effective and environmentally friendly and the oil forms a thin, but sticky layer that repairs itself after being scratched. It's easy to apply when mixed with alcohol that evaporates soon after application. A Swedish test proved it to be more effective than the leading rustproofing brand, Tectyl - this might only be available in Scandinavia.

[stickandrudderman]

I'm not a chemist...
Brunox reacts with the rust somehow and solidifies/stabilises it. It can be primed without further preparation. I've only recently started using it and am very impressed with it. I'm also impressed with their anti-seize penetrating fluid. I've used Wurth's Rostoff until now but this stuff is even better.

[RickM]

I'm not a chemist...
Brunox reacts with the rust somehow and solidifies/stabilises it. It can be primed without further preparation. I've only recently started using it and am very impressed with it. I'm also impressed with their anti-seize penetrating fluid. I've used Wurth's Rostoff until now but this stuff is even better.

I've seen rust converters work well in some instances and fail in others.

Ulf, POR15 encapsulates exposed metal surface with a very durable epoxy type layer of "paint". This impervious coating prevents exposure to water, oxygen etc. It does not react chemically with rust. It is also not UV resistant. If exposed to sunlight it needs to be top coated (can be painted body color as well).

In the past I've successfully used Por15 to coat lightly oxidized underbody areas, such as rockers or wheel wells, and then top coated with Wurth Schutz. IMO, a great way to prevent decay.

[Ulf]

I used Brunox as well when I had a very rusty Willys Jeep M38A1, but as far I remember, it was VERY expensive. I've also used POR15 more recently for my Land Rover and so far I haven't seen any new rust (at least not in the areas treated). But in terms of rustproofing (not fixing), I've heard that Waxoil works wonders - an extra bonus of wax- or oils is a slight decrease in sound levels as well...

[Drewtee]

I have been quoted £600 (plus tax) to underseal the car by the specialist Tosh mentioned,  does this sound reasonable amount?

They are the only specialist I have found so far and I've nobody else to compare price with. I haven't the tools or  machinery to apply protection myself so it needs to go to a pro. By all accounts, the company does a thorough job.

[Ulf]

600 GBP sounds a bit excessive to me, had my 230 done for about half the price (appr. GBP 380) here in Denmark and they too did a very good job. But as we pay roughly 3 times as much for our cars as you do in the UK (taxes...), the Danes may be more focussed on preserving their cars than elsewhere. But then again - the 600 quid is to be seen as an investment, that'll surely pay for itself in the long run...

[johnshenry]

Reading this with interest as I have a few places on my '69 where rust "tint" is showing.  Does anyone know where I can buy Brunox in the US.  Maybe not in the US, but at least order it to here.  Sounds like it, and Shutz might be just what I need.....


TIA

JH

[jameshoward]

Andy,

I think £600 is almost double what you should expect to pay for a car the size of the 113 having done a bit of research myself.

Take a look in Classic car mag or in the back of the Gazette. There are quite a few places that do it.

I have all the kit but haven't got around to doing it. I know it's horribly messy, but I think I can stand it for the saving.

JH

[dseretakis]

Cool redneck recipe you have there!  I'll have to keep that one in mind.  This is the second time this week that I hear of toilet wax rings being used as a source of cheap wax.  Yesterday I was at George Washington's Grist Mill in Mount Vernon and the miller told me that he uses toilet wax rings to lubricate the wooden cogs on the wheel!

1 pound paraffin wax (use some toilet sealing rings at about $1 each)