Author Topic: Steering slop  (Read 5395 times)

Barney

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Steering slop
« on: July 24, 2008, 16:11:38 »
I have a fair amount of "play", or slop in my steering, meaning it's not tight. What causes this, and is it an easy fix ?

Barney

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2008, 16:12:46 »
Sorry, my steering slop is in a 1966 230 SL.

waqas

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2008, 16:24:48 »
The "search" function (see top-right of every page for link) is an excellent feature of the forum. You'll find that our members have come across and discussed most of these issue before.

Here are some sample threads that might solve your problem:
http://index.php?topic=3936,play[/url]
http://index.php?topic=5449,play[/url]
http://index.php?topic=7856,play[/url]
http://index.php?topic=8734,play[/url]

Waqas (Wa-kaas) in Austin, Texas

Mike Hughes

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2008, 16:39:01 »
Probably the steering coupling at the base of the steering column and the firewall.  The links that wgas provided should tell you all you need to know.
- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
  Havana Brown (408)
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scoot

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2008, 16:47:54 »
If you remove the metal shroud at the base of the steering column in the driver's footwell you should be able to see the steering coupler.  When you move the steering wheel, you should be able to see the slop in the bushings if that is the cause, which it is most likely to be.  Note that other more experienced forum members described this as a job that took a couple of hours.  It took two of us (with a reasonable background in auto repair) a good part of a weekend to do this job, but it made all of the difference in the world and is well worth the very inexpensive parts list that you need to replace.   The cost is in the time, not parts on this.  It's not difficult, just a pain in the ass (and back) in my opinion.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California

saygold

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2008, 15:47:27 »
I just received the pieces to replace the coupler bushings (thanks for the part numbers Wagas).  

My car has power steering, and there is no obvious room to get access to the coupler hex-head bolts to get started.  I removed the bolts holding down the metal shroud, but there is no room to move it "up" the steering column to get access to the coupler.

Do I just drive the shroud up to get access, or is there any access by unbolting the steering box?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ken
'66 230SL (European, 4-sp)

scoot

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2008, 16:22:38 »
quote:
Originally posted by saygold

I just received the pieces to replace the coupler bushings (thanks for the part numbers Wagas).  

My car has power steering, and there is no obvious room to get access to the coupler hex-head bolts to get started.  I removed the bolts holding down the metal shroud, but there is no room to move it "up" the steering column to get access to the coupler.

Do I just drive the shroud up to get access, or is there any access by unbolting the steering box?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ken
'66 230SL (European, 4-sp)

Hi Ken -
You need to search the forum for comprehensive instructions, or look in the Big Blue Book.  I'll provide a couple of critical details but really you need better instructions than I can provide.  Here are some notes:

1.  You remove the coupler in order to replace the bushings

2.  The way to remove the coupler is to unbolt the 4 (I think 4) bolts for the steering box that are accessed from the wheel well.

3.  It doesn't matter whether or not you have power steering.

4.  You need to get the coupler off by loosening the bolts that hold it tight, and then separating the steering column from the steering box.  The steering box is the part that gives you the room to do this.  The steering shaft remains where it is.

5.  Don't turn the steering wheel if possible during this process -- you want it to line up the same way with the steering box as it is right now.  If you don't line it up right, your turn signals will not cancel at the right times.

6.  When you loosen the steering box, it's going to need to move back a few inches and (I think) it will rest on part of the suspension.  This is dependent on how you have the car wheels turned -- if they are turned one direction or the other you will have better access AND a place to rest the steering box.

You need to search the forum to get this right because I don't remember.  What I remember is that you want to keep the steering shaft and box marked such that you can insert them back together using the same grooves (for turn signal cancellation as mentioned above).

7.  You don't get to just correct the turn signal cancellation by adjusting the steering wheel (at the wheel itself) later -- the cancellation feature is built into the shaft itself.

8.  I remember needing to bang on the loosened coupler to get it off of both the steering box and the steering shaft.
 
9.  For me, it was also a pain to get back on.

10.  When you have replaced the bushings, you reassemble.  Have fun trying to get them back together -- for me it was a pain...

11.  Have fun reconnecting the steering box to the car also.  This was easier but still a bit of a pain.

12.  Other posters have indicated that the were able to do this job in a few hours.  I found that for me it took most of a weekend with a friend helping.

It will make a HUGE difference in how the car steers.

Good luck!
Scott
« Last Edit: July 27, 2008, 04:38:36 by 280SL71 »
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California

saygold

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Re: Steering slop
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2008, 19:54:41 »
When in doubt, look further in the forum using different search words.  I searched under "steering play".  There was a lot of good information there, but under "steering slop"  I came across very good instructions and photos from bpossel.  Between it and my BBB, I will tackle it this week (no real rush other than getting it done).  

Thanks for all the help.

Ken ('66 230SL, white, Euro, power steering)