W113 Pagoda SL Group > Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes
Tachometer Cable question
Ed Riefstahl:
Greetings Pagoda friends,
A few years ago (more like 10 or more) I developed an oil leak that turned out to be the seal where the tachometer cable attaches to the the engine. I purchased a new seal, but could never manage to remove the unit on the head that drives the tachometer.
I find it hard to believe that head removal is required to unscrew the unit that drives the cable. However I've tried to remove it several times, but the head is in the way enough that I can't get a socket on the nut. I disconnected the cable and capped it off, so no more oil leak. It's been that way for years. I sure would like to have it work, but will not remove the head.
Does anyone know if a special tool is required to remove this unit? I may try to make a tool to remove it. I'd sure like it to work before our cross country road trip next summer.
Any suggestion are greatly appreciated.
Ed Riefstahl
Erie, PA
1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - One of 1000, (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger step side (Mater)
2023 Mazda CX 5
Charles 230SL:
hi Ed, I had the same problem when I changed the seals on my tach drive. Its been a few years but seems I ended up using a 22mm open end wrench. If you don't have a 22mm wrench you may be able to get a crescent/adjustable wrench in there.
rwmastel:
Ed,
You're saying a 22mm socket wall is too thick and hits the part of the head that surrounds the tach drive? Maybe Charles has the answer. Also, it was demonstrated to me by JA17 this summer that high quality socket sets are made of better metals and therefore can have thinner socket walls. Sort through your stuff and see if a different socket works (if the wrench doesn't get the job done).
For further info on the very important parts below the tach connection, click here in the Tech Manual: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/RevCounter
Scroll down to "Tachometer Bushing, Removal and Replacement" section and look through that.
Ed Riefstahl:
Hey thanks guys,
I'll take a look at it again. We're in the middle of grape and fruit at the moment. So it won't be for a while, probably during winter.
I think that link will be very helpful too.
Ed Riefstahl
Erie, PA
1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - One of 1000 (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger step side (Mater)
2023 Mazda CX 5
mmizesko:
Ed,
If you haven't replaced the oil pump Thrust Piece on the oil pump, that the tach cable feeds into, you should. the brass wears and will eventually render the pinion gear useless, any your engine might be ruined. Here is a link to instructions:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=4869.msg30379#msg30379
https://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/ja17/2006126191530_Verticle%20gear%20assembly.jpg
Mike Mizesko
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