Author Topic: Differential Bolts  (Read 1033 times)

afibbe

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Differential Bolts
« on: April 01, 2023, 19:39:15 »
Shouldn’t there be lock washers on each bolt?
Alex Fibbe
1966 230SL
USA, Cincinnati, OH

Ed Riefstahl

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2023, 22:59:31 »
Hi Alex,
I also have a 1966 230SL and recently removed and refurbished the differential. I thought the same thing and ended up putting lock washers on the bolts when I put it back together.

After reading your post, I'm thinking maybe they didn't come with lock washers for what ever reason. Not like Mercedes for sure.

Looks like you're splitting the differential. What are you repairing? I had the flex joint / yoke inside the differential snap last fall. Not a good feeling when that happened.

Good luck,
Ed Riefstahl
Erie, PA

1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1989 300SE (Majestic)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - Red 5 speed (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger step side (Mater)
2023 Mazda CX 5

DaveB

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2023, 02:08:32 »
Hmm, you are right no washers on this one here either (ex-250SE sedan).
DaveB
'65 US 230sl 4-speed, DB190

ja17

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2023, 04:13:40 »
Never had lock washers on these. They probably had some reason. Use thread locker to be safe.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

afibbe

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2023, 00:21:42 »
Ed - I’m doing my rolling restoration. This winter is the rear axel, drive shaft, and fuel tank. I have parts cleaned and painted, replacement parts in hand, and parts heading for powder coating. The left axel was the last of the parts to be disassembled.  It is in my basement getting ready for cleaning and paint removal so it can go to powder coating.

I looked at the bearing attached to the differential for the left axle and have determined that it should be replaced. Now I am wondering if I should rebuild the differential.

Today, I feel a little overwhelmed. I’m mechanically inclined but a differential rebuild is beyond my ability. Ed, ja17, or anyone, what are your thoughts.
Alex Fibbe
1966 230SL
USA, Cincinnati, OH

Ed Riefstahl

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2023, 03:06:45 »
Hi Alex,

I sure can relate to the feeling of being overwhelmed. If you've caught any of my posts over the last few months, you'll know what I mean. I had no intentions of doing this extensive job on our SL this winter while dealing with a wife going through cancer / chemo and a torn rotator cuff myself. My wife wants a road trip in Ms Magoo this summer for our 46th anniversary and I hope to giver her that.

I just finished what you are now starting, except I had the flex joint / yoke snap last fall for no real apparent reason. We've toured the country for 21 years and 65,000 miles and maintained the car meticulously in the process. However, the car is 57 years old and the yoke is a weak spot in the early SL's I guess.

I removed the axle in two halves and put it on a bench in the middle of my garage where I could work on both sides of it without lifting it. After much consideration, lots of research and consults with this list, this is what I ended up doing. I disassembled the diff. completely, removing both axles, ring gear etc. I left the pinion gear in place.

After checking all bearings, I found none that were even slightly faulty. Everything in the differential looked as new. I replaced the flex joint with one from the exact same year 113 car. After a lot more consideration, I replaced the inner axle seals, split boot with solid boot. I also replaced the pinion seal. I left the outer grease seals and bearings alone. They looked to be in perfect condition and could come up with no reason to mess with them. I also replaced all rubber bushings, including springs, and compensation spring rubbers.

Sometimes I just do myself more harm fixing something that isn't broken, so I opted not to remove those outer bearings. I cleaned and packed the outer bearings, replaced all brake hoses, cylinders etc. and put the axle on the floor and bolted it back together and filled with new synthetic oil. I cleaned the axle with simple green and painted it up nice. I also painted under side of the rear.

Some would say you should replace / rebuild everything including all bearings. Well, if I had the slightest doubt about anything, I'd replace it. The only seals i didn't replace were the two outer axle grease seals, which looked perfect to me and absolutely nothing was getting into the brake drums either. in my opinion, the inner axle gear lube seals are the ones to be concerned with. If they leak, you have a real mess on your hands. if for whatever reason I feel I should replace the outer grease seals sometime, I'll just pull the axle out and replace them and slide the axle back in.

I've now installed the axle back on the car and replaced the entire brake system, front to back including master cylinder. Booster was replace a few years ago.

Now I'm ready to put the car on the ground and I started the car and for what ever reason I have this nasty, loud, intermittent clatter sound when I start or run the engine. Blows me away. I can't figure what it is. Murphy's law i guess. This is driving me absolutely nuts. I will remove valve cover tomorrow and start checking timing chain, valves etc.

Try not be be overwhelmed. Once I got started, my job was a much easier job than expected. Very straight forward stuff if you ask me. I only had help putting it back in the car, so it wouldn't fall on me. I strapped the axle to a 2x4 to keep it from flopping and used a single floor jack, connected the trailing arms and trunk mount.

Best of luck to you.
if you have questions, just ask. Lots of help from this great group.

Ed Riefstahl
1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1989 300SE (Majestic)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - Red 5 speed (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger step side (Mater)
2023 Mazda CX 5




Benz Dr.

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2023, 04:47:02 »
Ed - I’m doing my rolling restoration. This winter is the rear axel, drive shaft, and fuel tank. I have parts cleaned and painted, replacement parts in hand, and parts heading for powder coating. The left axel was the last of the parts to be disassembled.  It is in my basement getting ready for cleaning and paint removal so it can go to powder coating.

I looked at the bearing attached to the differential for the left axle and have determined that it should be replaced. Now I am wondering if I should rebuild the differential.

Today, I feel a little overwhelmed. I’m mechanically inclined but a differential rebuild is beyond my ability. Ed, ja17, or anyone, what are your thoughts.

Be careful with powder coat. You might go on to regret that stuff if you get it anywhere it shouldn't be. You can remove it with with a certain amount of effort but it's not that easy. Keep it away from threads, mounting surfaces, threaded holes, and anywhere you need a true surface. Rear axles abound with a lot of " no go " places. 
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

afibbe

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Re: Differential Bolts
« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2023, 18:20:01 »
I learned the hard way about Powder Coating when I did the front suspension.  I had several bolt holes that required Dremel sanding before the bolts would fit.  I plan to fill all the bolt holes and threaded holes with old bolts.  When the old bolts are removed, I plan to touchup paint any areas that need it.  Also, I purchased Power Coating masking tape and I plan to mask off the areas where I don't want paint.

I am feeling better about working on the differential.  I can take anything apart and clean it.  It is the correct assembly that I am worried about.  There is not much information in the BBB other than armatures should not try this.  Is there any source that would provide the process in a step-by-step process? 
Alex Fibbe
1966 230SL
USA, Cincinnati, OH