Author Topic: Front bearing replacement (Read 5007 times)

hansr433 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 28, 2020, 22:17:57 »

Quote from: PeterPortugal on July 28, 2020, 21:07:17

Hans,
Do not lose this part - it's the famous puller ring`. Costs more than 100 euros.
Peter

Thanks - why the high cost?

PeterPortugal · « **Reply #26 on:** July 29, 2020, 06:38:32 »

nobody knows....the Benz Dr has previously suggested that whoever sets the prices is probably smoking crack !

WRe · « **Reply #27 on:** July 29, 2020, 10:02:08 »

Hi,
I've added Col's documentation to the Technical Manual.
...WRe

Peter van Es · « **Reply #28 on:** July 29, 2020, 15:12:39 »

Well done WRe based on Col's documentation. I cleaned it up a little and we now have collaboratively added a very useful section to the Tech Manual: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/WheelsTires/Bearings

Peter

WRe · « **Reply #29 on:** July 29, 2020, 16:34:03 »

Thanks for cleaning Peter!
...Wolfgang

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #30 on:** July 29, 2020, 19:31:47 »

Quote from: PeterPortugal on July 29, 2020, 06:38:32

nobody knows....the Benz Dr has previously suggested that whoever sets the prices is probably smoking crack !

I can't take complete credit for that. It was actually Tim Kidder from K&K Mfg who said that in a letter to MB. So I stole it, but it was stolen well.

Has anyone priced a set of ignition points lately? They used to be 10 - 15 dollars and now they're 50 plus and all in one go. More like meth or LSD. ( not that I'd know about either )

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #31 on:** July 29, 2020, 19:44:59 »

Quote from: PeterPortugal on July 19, 2020, 08:47:18

Colin,

If you do manage to get the article together here is a picture showing how to deal with the bolts holding the discs to the hubs.

It really does make it easy.

Also it is recommended to use loctite on reassembly of these bolts.

Regards

Peter

Just a couple ofpoints here: MB buys their bearings from FAG, but SKF or NTN bearings are probably just as good. MB puts the part in their box and doubles the price - YMMV.

I don't lube the outer race before assembly and I don't use lock tight on the hub screws. They have lock washers and are torqued down to about 80 - 85 ft-lbs so they won't come loose.

PeterPortugal · « **Reply #32 on:** July 29, 2020, 21:11:18 »

Hi Dan,

Regarding the disc to hub fixing...I got that from the BBB (for W111). It states to replace the lock washers with new ones and use thread locker when you bolt the discs (rotors) to the hubs.

I didn't replace the lock washers....so I did use loctite blue.

Regards

Peter

PeterPortugal · « **Reply #33 on:** July 29, 2020, 21:15:11 »

Nice one Colin ! That is a great addition to the content.

wwheeler · « **Reply #34 on:** July 29, 2020, 21:57:29 »

Quote from: PeterPortugal on July 29, 2020, 21:11:18

I didn't replace the lock washers....so I did use loctite blue.

FYI...You should always replace split lock washers as they will compress and lose some of their clamping ability. Plus the edges that bite into the mating surfaces dull and don't as good of a job. Also don't ever plate old split lock washers as they are a spring and can get hydrogen imbrittlement and will crack when installed.

They are cheap, available everywhere and are all standard. So really no reason not to. Just have the more common sizes on hand.

I have been really enjoying this thread BTW.

PeterPortugal · « **Reply #35 on:** July 30, 2020, 06:54:30 »

Hi Wallace,

A correction for you

"They are cheap, available everywhere IN THE USA and are all standard."

You should try living in Portugal, only then will you realise just how good you have it when it comes to availability and cost of vehicle parts and services.

I certainly don't disagree with your recommendation though. You have inspired me to get on to Ebay and order a load up! I have plenty of plated "old" ones throughout my newly rebuilt subframe...doh !

Peter

hansr433 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 30, 2020, 12:01:58 »

Quote from: PeterPortugal on July 30, 2020, 06:54:30

Hi Wallace,

A correction for you

"They are cheap, available everywhere IN THE USA and are all standard."

You should try living in Portugal, only then will you realise just how good you have it when it comes to availability and cost of vehicle parts and services.

I certainly don't disagree with your recommendation though. You have inspired me to get on to Ebay and order a load up! I have plenty of plated "old" ones throughout my newly rebuilt subframe...doh !

Peter

Amen. Try getting stuff in rural Italy. Everything is a 30 minute drive away and then you need to go to multiple stores to get what you need. I miss Canadian Tire, NAPA, Princess Auto and all the other good stores.

wwheeler · « **Reply #37 on:** July 30, 2020, 18:06:04 »

Ok and corrected! Yeah but the trade off for living in rural Italy is the scenery. Dallas is an easy place to live, but not very interesting.

Unlike all of the other fasterenrs that Mercedes uses, split lock washers are all the same. So yes, the way to stock up is just buy all sizes at once.

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #38 on:** July 30, 2020, 19:37:52 »

The washers used on those screws are not your standard washer at all. They're probably spring steel and more narrow in width.

Leester · « **Reply #39 on:** August 25, 2020, 19:59:58 »

Terrific write up and right on time for me. I have the hubs off and new bearings in hand but one question: Is it necessary to remove the old races from the hubs and install the new ones that came with the new bearings? There is no indication that there was anything wrong with the old bearings. I'm just a little uncomfortable with knocking out the old races and getting the new ones in correctly since I've never done that before and I don't really have the right tools (like the brass block). Its not that I'm lazy, just a bit cautious.

Also, I see I don't have the contact springs but it looks like I can add that anytime. Do I need only on one side or both sides?

Thanks, Lee

PeterPortugal · « **Reply #40 on:** August 25, 2020, 21:59:11 »

Hi Lee,
I believe I have seen some posts on here from "old hands" that suggest leaving in the old races if they are in good condition.
Regards
Peter

col320ce · « **Reply #41 on:** August 26, 2020, 04:04:19 »

You could be inventive and try copper pipe if you have some if that. Any soft metal should work.
I figured that I didn't have the experience to decide if the old ones were still good or not.

Leester · « **Reply #42 on:** August 28, 2020, 16:41:19 »

Thanks everyone. I now have the bearing races out, hubs cleaned up and preparing for reassembly but waiting for a small scale from Amazon (about 12 bucks). One thing I did notice is that there was a fair amount of grease between the bearings inside the hub. The write up and the BBB specify in grams (hence the scale) the amount of grease to pack the bearings with as well as the amount to put in the cap but I could find no reference to an amount inside the hub between the bearings. It seems like if there was supposed to be grease in there, the amount would have also been specified in the BBB. For those who have done this job did you limit the grease to the bearings (45-55 grams (I assume per hub) and 20-25 grams for the outer cup).

Thanks in advance. Lee

PeterPortugal · « **Reply #43 on:** August 29, 2020, 07:12:01 »

Hi Lee,

I just did this same job and filled with grease as you described.

Certainly there was a lot more of the old grease in my hubs as I found them than the measured quantity I put in.

I am interested to see what other answers you get back.

Regards

Peter

hansr433 · « **Reply #44 on:** August 29, 2020, 19:48:22 »

I would suggest using verified weights to check your scale first. I used a digital kitchen scale to measure out 20g of MB grease and is almost filled the copper dustcap. On the images COL supplied, 25g barely filled the dustcap. BTW, the FEBI Repair kits contain endcaps that are too large for the early axles. The other parts in the kit are fine.

Before we get too paranoid about the exact quantity of grease, MB states that too much grease will raise the temperature and cause the grease to be be liquified. Speaking with the owner of a garage who over his 50 years of wrenching on cars has done plenty of wheel bearing repacking, he said to use your common sense and not a digital lab scale to measure out grease.

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Author Topic: Front bearing replacement (Read 5007 times)