W113 Pagoda SL Group > Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes
WRD and cold idle
FresnoBob:
I've read all the posts regarding WRD tuning and operation. My WRD is not increasing cold idle. As Stickandrudderman notes, the air does flow into the WRD via the air filter and removing or inserting the filter doesn't change idle speed when cold and there is little or no air detected when the car is warm. Jumping my enrichment solenoid stalls the engine as well as jumping the CSV.
However, the car idles at 600-700 rpm when cold, and then idles at 800 rpm when warm.
I have 3 oval shims: .5 mm, .145 mm and .1 mm totaling 0.745 mm. Removing all the shims didn't change the WRD function.
I placed my WRD thermostat in boiling water and the plunger extended several mm and then returned once I cooled it.
I note my WRD doesn't look like the others pictured. Without removing the press fit pin, I can't remove the insert and I have no idea how to adjust the rotating pin which limits the insert travel. I also assume adjusting the screw (with lock nut) on top of the insert will affect WRD function, but I can't loosen the lock nut as the insert spins. In my understanding, as the thermostat becomes hot, it pushes down on the insert and reduces WRD function. Therefore, more oval shims and/or further inserting the insert adjusting screw should increase WRD function. Is this correct? I note as I back off the WRD thermostat tower screws the car increases idle and runs better. How do I increase my cold idle? Any suggestions are most welcome.
I don't have a way to measure CO. Does anyone know where can I buy a reasonably priced CO meter?
Thanks!
ja17:
The rotating pin is for test purposes only. Normally it is left in the down position so as not to limit the travel of the piston. The WRD increases cold idle by allowing additional air through from the small air filter on the WRD. In addition the WRD also enrichens the fuel mixture when the heat feeler is cold and contracted. Try doing the split linkage test when the engine is cold running. With the linkage split, increasing the air by opening the venture should increase the idle.
mrfatboy:
My friend has one of these that we use on my car for A/F mixture. You would also need the bracket.
Innovate Motorsports (3837) LM-2 (BASIC) Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Wideband Meter incl. Bosch LSU 4.9 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S7W836/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aOD4Cb7EV12D4
Innovate Motorsports 3728 Exhaust Clamp Cast-Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO9MF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eQD4CbFQEZ9K7
Search for best price.
My other friend has this type that we use also.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162003793729
I would suggest making sure the hot running CO and idle are correct before messing with the cold start/warm up idle.
FresnoBob:
Hi Joe,
Just to ensure I understand the split linkage test in this instance, if I increase, through the injection pump linkage, greater fuel while the WRD is letting in air as observed, the engine should increase in rpm. This would seem to indicate the that fuel to air ratio is wrong in the WRD during cold operation. How is this adjusted? Shims inside the insert? I have no idea how to remove the insert or adjust the black bolt and lock nut on top of the insert; they just spin.
ja17:
Before the engine is warm, start and let idle. Split the linkage. Open the venturi a little and see if the idle increases. Next let the venturi close and move the lever going to the IP. Let me know which action increases the cold idle.
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