Author Topic: Query on paint types used  (Read 3445 times)

swood1

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Query on paint types used
« on: August 24, 2016, 20:17:08 »
Hi all,

I assume paints used in the 60's were all cellulose based but is this a preference for resprays?  Are the original colours still available from suppliers as cellulose based paints?

I have a few panels that I want to strip so need to know which is the best way to go with regards to adding protection prior to sending the car out for painting.  Eg. cellulose based protection (bondarust), or 2k based protection.

Regards

Steven
250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

Pinder

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Re: Query on paint types used
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2016, 12:16:38 »
Steven,

 Im assuming you want to strip and fix the rust (if any) yourself then send the car out for paint? My personal preference is 2K based epoxy once you sand off all the rust (or most of it). If you strip any of the Aluminum make sure you spray 2k on the same day.

Pinder
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.

swood1

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Re: Query on paint types used
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2016, 14:15:32 »
Hi Pinder,

Thanks for your response, you assumed correctly.  I have painted a car before (I have a triumph TR4a), using Cellulose which was actually quite enjoyable and it has come out quite well.  But for this car I shall put it out for painting but I shall do all the metalwork myself.

With regards to 2k based epoxy, is there a specific brand you can recommend?  Also, would I need full respirator for 2k? 

Regards

Steven
250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

Pinder

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Re: Query on paint types used
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2016, 23:46:05 »
For 2k use full face mask with activated charcoal filters. Ideally full resporator. If you have any kind of astma dont risk it. If your doing primer only its ok if you get some fluff in the paint i assume you will be sanding it anyway. For primer on a calm day i spary it with garage doors open and full face mask with activated charcoal
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.

Pinder

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Re: Query on paint types used
« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2016, 00:06:27 »
I have been using Eastwood paints and pant guns. I think the paint is actually from Kirker but the prices are excellent and I find the service form Eastwood to be good I think you are in England not sure if they will ship there.  a 1 gallon kit with harder etc is under $100 bucks in the US. you can get it in black, grey tan or white. make sure you use the HVLP guns so much less overspray and almost all of the product ends up on the car. gun distance is like 4 to 5 inches away.

What I have been doing on the last 3 cars Ive painted and it works for me is 2 coats epoxy on day 1. then let it dry for a day or so then 3 coats AU 2k high build primer. all these you can get from Eastwood. I like the eastwood concurse gun and you will need a big tip 1.8 to spray the primer. Dont worry if you cant lay it down too flat or get the odd run, you can thin it 10% if you want but if you going to sand it it dont matter.  Acrylic Urathane is high build, unlike nitro cell.  If your body is straight 2 coats is all you need. but no harm in doing 3. 1 gallon will easily do 3 coats on a 280SL. once you finish primer let it sit in the sun. this stuff will shrink and if you have sand makes < 600 grit it will mirror throught when dry. so get the primer to 600. ive done 400 but at the end after several months of drying I have to re polish the cars. My next car I will get primer to 600 to save me having to polish 2 times.  I also use the Eastwood bondo. its good stuff. But I here RAGE is good too. Ive used regular bondo but its crap stuff. the eastwood stuff has rust protection. whatever that means.

for actual top coat I used the paint from Restoration Shop. They can mix the Mercedes colors. I used single stage paint but honnesly if I did it again i would do base boat clear.  Also if you have a solid color car there is not reason you cant do it all yourself if you can spray primer you can finish it too. no spay booth needed if you wet sand the final finish and polish. block sanding is key to an amazing finish.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.

Pinder

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Re: Query on paint types used
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2016, 00:13:42 »
for block sanding I use the durablocks. but you can use any blocks you want, just remember over curves like the front wings you should do a criss cross pattern. never sand down the lenght of a curve.  i mostly use the flexible 1 foot durablocks for the flat part of the doors and and boot. use the largest block that fits the area. the durablocks have enought flex to conform to the body panels.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.

swood1

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Re: Query on paint types used
« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2016, 18:54:39 »
Hi Pinder,

Thanks for your feedback.

I need to think about both options now (ie doing it myself or getting an outside company to paint it for me).

Regards

Steven
250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a