W113 Pagoda SL Group > General Discussion

Part # ???

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A Dalton:
If anyone has part # info , I would appreciate such..
 113.043

 The coolant shut-off barrel gate valve that is in the water line at the heater core. [ operated via temp cable ]
 I have a decent parts library, but I can not find this part #.

 Was going to change the O ring [ have that part#], and when I grabbed it, it slipped from pliers and fell right into the core ... can see it , but after hours of various attempts, no luck.. as it has to come up as straight as it went in..
 So, if I can find one through the part# , the old one has found a new home..
 Many Thanks in advance..
... maybe it is listed on a fish card???
 A Dalton

Benz Dr.:
They're the same ones as used in all the older sedans from the 50's. A 190SL uses the same basic part. 108/109 and the fin cars use something different I think so you need one from a car with cardboard heater boxes ( yeah that's right - cardboard )

I'm sure I have a few around here. There is no part number for this valve. Behr supplies it as part of the heater core but not as a replaceable part.

Daniel G Caron

A Dalton:
Thanks for that info.
 I will do some searching around in these parts.
 ..I have a South Bend here, so may wind up cutting one..
going to try one more time to remove it..[ can't see like I used to,
so that doesn't help any..]
 Will post how goes it..

hands_aus:
When I was replacing my heater valve "O" ring I tried prising the valve out using a spark plug screwed into the top of the valve.
Of course it broke off flush with the top of the valve.
Fortunately the valve was jammed in place.
I used a small drill to put a hole in the broken screw. I then tried using an "ezi out" to remove the broken screw but the "ezi out" was too big.
I was telling one of my friends who is a retired clock maker. He suggested I use a left hand drill of which he many sizes.
I chose a drill and inserted it into a hand drill and turned the handle backwards.
The broken screw popped out in the blink of an eye.
To prevent this happening again I bought a 5mm x 50 mm high tensile bolt. It was strong enough to allow me to lever/pull the valve out.
Trying to align that valve of yours from the top outside will be a real challenge.
Good Luck

Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

Benz Dr.:
I've removed so many of these things over the past 20 years. Every 190SL that comes in needs to have the heaters done.
The trick is to move the valve down a small amount to start it moving and then use a screw and two screw drivers on each side to pry it up. Moving it up or down a bit at a time until it comes out.
You need to use lots of penatrating oil and take your time. Only once was I not able to remove a stuck valve and I just heated the valve and removed the whole assembly. After I had it apart I  soldered it back into place.
Make sure you use the proper O ring and clean the valve and housing with emery cloth until the valve slides into the hole freely ( ah, don't drop it into the core ) and the use some grease to lube the valve. Mark the top of the valve so you can tell where the opened tap will sit and turn it so that it will shut off completely when you have the heater lever shut off. It's more important that you have it so that it will shut off than how far open it will be. If it doesn't shut off fully you will cook in the summer heat. Even half way open will give you alot of heat on a cold day if you have everything sealed up well as far as door seals go.
My car works perfectly because I spent a lot of time on this area knowing I was going to be driving it in cold weather. The linckage going to the valve can be adusted so that it will open and close just the right amount. The arm that turns the valve can be bent up or down for fine adjustment.
All in all a frustrating, knuckle busting, teeth grinding operation but rather satisfying once done.

Daniel G Caron

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