Author Topic: Heater Core removal  (Read 4674 times)

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 4119
Heater Core removal
« on: November 27, 2014, 22:40:04 »
Attached is a photo showing Barry getting one of the heater levers unhooked in our quest to remove the heater core for repair. He is tall enough to look over the top of the windshield and still have his hand on the wrench to loosen the small crown nut on the lever. Second photo is the two of us, with the offending unit in plain site in the light of day.

We were successful in the removal process, following the information on the wiki and using the BBB. We are planning to note any differences or difficulties to add our experience to the knowledge base. It was mostly straightforward, but still a pain in the butt and back.

Two people that can work with each other made the process go fairly smoothly, once one or the other of us was in position to get at a screw/bolt etc. and discovered that we had the wrong size wrench, the other could respond, and where we two wrenches were required, we could work it together.

All told for today, it was a little less than three hours and we had the core in hand. Note this is after we had already gotten out the glove box, clock, radio, instruments and main plenum.

I am thinking we are probably going to need a few more than three hours to do "assembly is the reverse of removal"!!
« Last Edit: November 28, 2014, 00:02:09 by Jonny B »
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7313
Re: Heater Core removal
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2014, 03:34:18 »
Plan on removal time tripled for installation.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Naj ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
  • Posts: 3163
Re: Heater Core removal
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2014, 14:23:54 »
On my 230, one of the heater core mounting brackets had broken off.
Once soldered back on, there was a gap between the heater core and the mounting gap in the cabin.
I used rubber faucet washers (one on each side) to fill the gap and used nyloc nuts on the securing bolts. They were tightened just snug, not to create any stress on the heater core brackets.

Naj
68 280SL

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 4119
Re: Heater Core removal
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2014, 16:35:12 »
Joe, I sort of figured those kind of numbers. Fortunately we not under any kind of rush.

Naj, excellent comment, thanks for the insight, we were a bit concerned about the fitment once the bracket was repaired.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

ctaylor738

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, VA, Falls Church
  • Posts: 1128
Re: Heater Core removal
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2014, 23:14:01 »
I notice that you still have the fresh air cowl in place.  I found that re-connecting the levers was a lot easier if you unfasten the cable to the fresh air flap.  Then you can move the control unit around (some).
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 4119
Re: Heater Core removal
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2014, 00:53:38 »
Then by taking out the fresh air cowl, we can manipulate thigns a bit easier? And get some extra hands room?
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

ctaylor738

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, VA, Falls Church
  • Posts: 1128
Re: Heater Core removal
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2014, 02:37:30 »
It's more like you don't have to fight the tension on the fresh air cable when reconnecting the cables to the control unit.

And it will give you a chance to check out the fresh air filter and the flap gasket!  To say nothing of the correct routing of the windshield washer hose.
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA