Fuel Injection Pump Problems

[jackhughes81]

I am a new member and not totally familiar with this site.   I have a 65 230sl and dont know much about it.  My dad bought in 70, stored till I bought in 2007.  Drove it for a couple years then it simply died.  I am quite mechanically inclined, electrical as well (engineer).  I have taken to 2 'euro' repair shops who claimed to know, but after 2 weeks just wanted diagnostic $$$ with no fix suggested.    One important note- during its last summer days, I noticed a tapping type noise- in the engine at low speeds while driving.  The car will start sometimes, and runs terribly for a minute or so - sounding like timing is way off then stalls.  I have removed and cleaned the fuel pump, checked flow rate and flushed the lines.  The injector pump may have an issue.  6 months ago, I noticed the oil level (removed red cap on injector pump) was low.  I could not find any spec on the replacement oil so I used some lightweight I had. 

Mechanics tell me they know nothing about the injector pump and cant test it.. I am convinced it has an issue.

HOW DO I CHECK THE FUEL INJECTOR PUMP??? any suggestions would be greatly helpful

[Jordan]

Jack, welcome to the forum and the Pagoda family.  WRT your problems, perhaps you could be a bit more specific as to what the problem is besides sometimes starting and runs terribly. 

Before you start playing with the injection pump have you checked the usual suspects; timing, dwell, spark plugs (colour and if you have spark), coil etc?  There are a lot of brilliant members on this site and you should hopefully get it sorted out.  The tapping doesn't sound good but lets not start with an engine rebuild.  It might be something far simpler.  There is also a wealth of info already on the site, just use the search function.

[Bonnyboy]

Jack, welcome to the forum.   Just a shot in the dark...You noted that you flushed the lines, did that include the fuel return line - did you see fuel coming back into the fuel tank at a good clip when you remove the fuel sending unit from the trunk? 

[ja17]

Yes,

Welcome Jack.  You can check the basic adjustment of the injection pump by removing the small round cover on the front of the injecion pump. You can then check to see if the rack moves freely. Search up "injection pump tour" on this site. The injection pumps in the tour are a bit different from your 230SL pump but most of the information is relevant. As mentioned, also need to check the "warm running device"  (WRD" on the injection pump, to make sure it is not stuck. Get back with us with more questions after you take a look at the information here. 

[Peter van Es]

Jack,

with your issues, I'd recommend reading lots in the Technical Manual:

http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/Start

And then click through all the links. That's also where you'll find the links to WRD etc.

Some of the material (e.g. the Engine Starting Aid Tour) is for Full Members only. However the $30 you'll pay to read that info, and possibly provide to your mechanic, you'll save many times over. Check this for details on membership.

Peter

[glenn]

Hi Jack...   How many miles on it??    First thing- adjust valves and sync crank and cam shafts.  Engine's the most expensive item($2500?).  Next run engine for 5 minutes with Gunk Engine Flush(quart), drain and fill with (Castrol) 20-50 extended mileage oil.
     Is the tapping coming from the top or bottom?

[jackhughes81]

Since my post, I have read a lot in the tech manual.  Thank you so much!  The section on fuel system is invaluable.  Some additional info-

The car has 75K original km on it.  Verified by title, maintenance information and my father who bought in 70 and stored in barn till I bought in 07. 
Body rust has taken its toll in Seattle, and the new paint to cover for sale in 70 went right over everything.
Original tool kit
Original UNOPENED first aid kit...  well untill I opened it...
Dad replaced flex brake lines, new plugs, rotar, cap

power washed then started.  Drove to LesSchwab for new tires the I drove off to Spokane (about 300 miles)
the car ran great, and at times cruised at 100km/h while I forgot about the world

Ran summers with minor issues involving fuel pump clogging.

Last August back in Bellingham, Wa it stalled going around a corner and I thought out of gas since fuel indicator only works on upper half..

Could not start so stored for winter.
2 shops claimed the could fix and after $600 'diagnosing the issues' I was no closer to a fix.

Then comes my discovery of the forum and the manual.

Spring time and the car is up on stands with me removing the fuel pump.  All OK.
I disconnected fuel line from tank and return line and placed them in a large gas can with long tube extensions to ease the process.
Meantime I remember putting oil in the injector pump a couple years ago thru the red cap in top
recent running past the pump has been loudly ticking but paid no attention

Car starts and runs for 1 minute then stalls.
It really sounds like fuel starvation.
Sit a bit then start again with same result.
Timing OK
Dwell OK
Pump working OK..  I hear it pressurize then hold. 

HOW DO I INSERT PICTURE?  THANKS SO MUCH.. JACK

[Peter van Es]

Posting pictures: see: http://www.sl113.org/FAQ/items/FAQ-Images.html

[ctaylor738]

The fuel pump should not "pressurize and hold." It should just run.  It supplies more fuel than the engine needs.  What isn't used by the injection pump is returned to the fuel tank.  This line may be plugged or the return passage in the tank may be plugged. Suggest unhooking the line at the pressure regulator and blowing it out with compressed air.

When you serviced the fuel pump, did you remove the inlet fitting and clean the filter in it?

Cheers,

CT

[Bonnyboy]

It sounds to me like the pressure valve on the outlet end of the fuel pump is either not working or the pump isn't pumping with enough pressure.   When I was playing with my pump I had volume but not enough pressure which I tested using a garden sprinkler guage to get an idea of pressure.  My pressure valve was too strong for the old pump I had and wouldn't let fuel back into the return line.  I put in a new pump and voila - the fuel now flows.

[garymand]

Now we are getting some where, I would check fuel pressure and volume at the engine.  The cold start valve is a good place to do the measurements.  It is in the manual.  Ensure you are getting the required fuel pressure and volume to the FI pump.  Let us know.  

[ja17]

Yes, hook  up a gauge.   Most likely you will see the fuel pressure drop off right before the engine stalls.

[jackhughes81]

PRESSURE VALVE ON THE OUTLET OF FUEL PUMP..  I have removed and cleaned this older version of the pump and am not familiar with this valve.  I have the Chiltons manual but do not see this item... BTW.. moderator, I tried to sign up for full membership and the system did not like the fact my mailing address is different than PO billing..  how to get around this?
I have spent the night reading about the FI pump and the 'warm running device' on the injection pump.  Excited for dawn to pull the filter and see performance..  in addition, I have read much about linkage adjustment procedures, but do not see them.. is this part of the full membership? 
I will try again to post pics.. spring is here in the NW and I want to take this little beauty for a spin.  When it ran, it was a pleasure to drive... like it was on rails.. cheers- jack

[Jonny B]

As a full member you have access to the technical manual. Go the "Technical Manual" tab, then scroll down to the bottom of the page, and you will find a link for the linkage tour, and other content available to full members.

[ja17]

Most likely you have sediment in the fuel tank and fuel cannot get into the flower pot.  Top off the tank with fuel  and see if the problem goes away for a while.  Your problem will return when the fuel level gets to about 1/2 tank. Another check you can make is to remove the fuel sender in the trunk and look into the tank with a flashlight.  Any crud in the bottom of the tank will clog the intake for the "flower pot".

[jackhughes81]

Yes I did, and there is a good flow on the return line.  Currently I have both the pump inlet line and the return line in a 5 gal gas can.  Car runs for 1-2 minutes then appears to stall out..

[jackhughes81]

Took the assembly off, inspected and returned ..  simply to become familiar with the mechanics.  I hear the sucking but cant determine if it changes in any way.  The filter on the assembly has no cartridge but is simply a round canister?  After re-assembly the same stalling after fairly good running for a minute or so..  I will time the running today and report back. 

[jackhughes81]

Thanks for the help-  I can not find the pressure valve.  I have an early style tall pump, and have been pouring over the documentation looking for the pressure valve.  Can you point me to the location of documentation showing the valve?  thanks- jack

[jackhughes81]

what would make the pressure drop off?  I am looking for the fuel pump pressure regulator valve...  diagram?  thanks- jack

[ja17]

Are you saying that  your main fuel filter  canister had no cartridge in it?  On  the early 230SL pumps the fuel pressure regulator is built into the fittings toward the front of the IP.  On the later W113 engines the fuel pressure regulator is built into the fitting at the rear end of the IP.  The fuel line coming from the fuel filter canister is the supply line. The return line is the fuel line going back to the tank. Where the return line leaves the IP you will find the regulator.

Attach a pressure gauge to the system and run the engine.  This should help pin point the problem.

[jackhughes81]

I did find the pressure regulator valve between the fuel filter and the FI pump.  Tomorrow I will get a pressure gauge and test it.  Supposed to be 70F tomorrow and the 230 needs to be driven.  I also took the fuel pump apart again and found NO screen on the input, so putting a inline fuel filter between tank and pump.. 
I also have an issue with the ignition.  I lost the original keys, sent to MB for code, made another and they dont work.  Needs to wiggle intensely and maybe start.  I want to remove ignition and bypass the key.  Anyone know easy way?  I have a wiring diagram..
I will post pressure results tomorrow.
jack

[ja17]

Some of the earliest version electric fuel pumps did not have the screen on the intake fitting. Removal of the ignition is a lot of work. You will have to remove all the gauges to get to the mounting bolts one or two are below the dash, and one under the center gauge. There is a hidden pin under the clamp around the steering lock which holds the assembly in the column.   You have to move the clamp out of the way and turn the key to position #1 before you can depress the pin. Once the pin is depressed, the whole steering lock and ignition can be removed.  You may want to check with some good lock smiths first. They may be able to make a key or adjust the one that doesn't work with the ignition still in the car.
 Also if you can get to the three small slotted screws on the electrical switch at the rear  of the lock assembly, you can remove it and activate the ignition/ starter etc. Be careful some of these wires are live. You may want to disconnect the battery so you do not get a short.

Sometimes the early style check valve/regulators on the IP get stuck. Take it apart and clean it. Later versions do not come apart.

[jackhughes81]

Thanks Joe..  I have not been able to find a pressure gauge but have access to the valve and am taking it off this afternoon.  The fuel tank is questionable-  could not remove the plug and have resorted to return line and fuel pump inlet line extended into 5 gal gas can.  The Key is frustrating and will try taking the switch from the rear of the lock assembly.  I have a remote start button and will install that if possible short term..  thanks for the alternate advice.  The valve looks fairly easy to take apart.  I am electrically and mechanically quite inclined.  I am a retired chemical engineer with lots of time and not so much cash.. again thanks!  jack

[ja17]

Hello Jack,

The electric fuel pumps on these cars are gravity feed fuel. So as  you can see the bottom of the electric fuel pump is mounted level with or below the bottom of the fuel tank. Be careful running fuel in to separate containers. A spark from the wiring or static electric could be cause a dangerous fire. 

A simple universal pressure gauge will work for checking fuel pressure.  A  0 to 60 psi. range is good.

[jackhughes81]

Got a gauge but am a bit confused how to hook into system.  I have pump with inlet, outlet and the return line to tank.  All these lines are exposed and I have access, but the connections to them are sometimes hard coupled.  I dont think dead end to the pressure gauge is the way to measure it, or is it?  I read somewhere about using a 'T' arrangement, but are we talking at the outlet from the fuel pump?  Seems like maybe I want to have a tee on the return line and full flow rate?  Not sure how the pump likes being static pressure.. seems like the return line 't' would be the way..  any advice?  I am collecting lots of connectors, tubes and other small fittings and items in an attempt .. raining hard now so need some sunshine to work. 
thanks again- jack

[ja17]

Just disconnect the metal fuel line going to  the intake starting valve and temporarily clamp the fuel gauge on there.

[garymand]

From previous reply: "The cold start valve is a good place to do the measurements.  It is in the manual.  Ensure you are getting the required fuel pressure and volume to the FI pump.  Let us know."

[jackhughes81]

Is the Cold Starting Valve the same as the intake starting valve?  I am not familiar with the different names used for the same item, but I will learn thanks--  jack

In the technical manual it references a repair manual, which I do not have.  Is there a way to get a copy of this manual?  I find a lot of things in the technical manual online here reference another one..  I have the Chilton manual  1959-70 and it seems to be short of what I might need.  I must say anything I can learn is a plus..Thanks- jack

[garymand]

yes they are the same and yes there are more than one term for several components.  http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/Engine-starting-aid-tour shows the valve.   http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Documents/BBB  is the manual one of 2 you generaly need.
The volume is volume flow--minimum of 1 liter in 15 seconds.

[ja17]

What would be especially useful to the diagnosis would be to have the gauge connected when the problem is occurring.  A drop in fuel pressure would indicate a fuel delivery problem. 13 to 17 lbs is sufficient to run the injection. You may actually see the fuel pressure drop-off right before the problem starts.  Doing the fuel flow test may also indicate a fuel delivery problem, especially when the problem is occurring. The fuel flow test is conducted with the engine off, ignition on.

[jackhughes81]

Joe,

Again I am heading to the supply house for a way to connect into my fuel line at the cold start valve.

The hard line compression fitting is giving me great troubles.  I tried to attach a pressure gauge there, but am unable to get the right fittings.  I took the csv coupling ( with the little return spring) off and am bringing that with me to indicate the male compression fitting needed.  I will then connect a female fitting for the gauge and hope to measure pressure.Could this be done somewhere else--  what would a gauge on the pump outlet measure..  static pressure but is that feasable or useful?  thanks- jack

[ja17]

Hello,

I just use a rubber fuel hose and a hose clamp to connect to the line on the engine. Just slide the 17mm fitting back and clamp a rubber fuel hose on the metal line. The pressure in the system is less than 20psi. At the gauge end you should be able to find a standard  fitting which will accept the other end of the  rubber fuel hose and clamp.

[jackhughes81]

Thanks a lot. I will try this today...jack

[jackhughes81]

Well, I measured the pressure and it was about 2 lb.. flow rate is about 1.5l/min.

However, this was done with the inlet to the fuel pump in a 5 gal can..  I did this because I could not remove the plug from the fuel tank.. it is rusted shut.  Bought an inline filter and will put it between the fuel tank and the inlet to the fuel pump.  This will allow me to put gas in the tank and produce head for the pump and filter it as well.
thanks again-- jack

[ja17]

Why are you using a 5 gal fuel tank for the pressure check?  If your fittings on your in line fuel filter are too small you will restrict fuel volume enough to have problems. notice that the fuel intake hose is around 12-13mm.

[jackhughes81]

I removed the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump inlet.  I bought 3 feet of fuel line and attached to fuel pump inlet.  I placed the other end into the 5 gal gas can.  I placed the return line into the 5 gal gas can.  Any fuel line I am using is the same as the one originally running from the fuel tank to the inlet of the fuel pump.  In reading, I believe part of my problem is in this configuration, the fuel pump is 12 inches above the gas can, requiring the fuel pump to suck the fuel from the gas can rather than a positive pressure gravity feed from the tank.

Since the car died while driving last year, all my testing has been using a gas can since my thought was the gas tank is SEVERELY contaminated with rust and debris, hence the introduction of the clean gas source from the gas can.  Now I know that positive inlet pressure to the fuel pump is required, and in fact may be the cause of my lack of pressure at the cold start valve as I measured at less than 5 lbs.  As I mentioned, the flow rate I measured directly at the outlet of the fuel pump was just over 1.5L/minute.

In an effort to eliminated contaminated fuel supply, I have violated the fuel pumps need for pressure on its inlet.
My next test is place the 5 gal gas tank in the trunk and then run the fuel line down to the fuel pump.  My bet is this will work.  Next I will place the new, inline fuel filter directly in the fuel line from the tank to the inlet of the fuel pump.  I understand the fuel tank must be removed (already located the 3 bolts) and cleaned.

[garymand]

Why guess about problems that may not exist?    Pull your fuel gage through the handy access port in your trunk floor.   Inspect the inside of your tank.  Or just jostle the backend of the car, drain a liter of gas out of the tank supply line to the pump into a clear container, and see what it looks like. 

[ja17]

Hello Jack,

Dis-connect the metal fuel line at the intake starting solenoid. Slide the 17mm fitting back and just use a rubber fuel line  and clamp it to the metal fuel line you just dis-connected. 

[jackhughes81]

I could not get the sensor out of the tank.. nuts off but can not get the unit to budge.I know rhe sender unit never goes more than half full on the gauge.. 

MEASURED FUEL PRESSURE--  LESS THAN 5 LBS

Car will start then runs for about 1 minute then starts to sputter and make loud clunky type noises like valves and things are clanking.. then stalls..  let fuel pump run for a minute then starts and goes thru the same thing.. sounds like a fuel pump?  if so, can I rebuild, or I think I should be able to get some modern pump that will supply the pressure and volume?  please advise :'(

[jackhughes81]

I am slowly working on my fuel pump problem.. rain here has hampered, so its OK.. I have some quesitons about the pump.  Although others might know, I noticed you were responding and maybe had a broad knowledge of these related

1/ Is there a reason I can not use a universal pump  ($150)  that puts out 1.5 gpm at 35psi?

2/ Does the pressure relief valve take care of constant overpressure, or is it a bad idea to have more pressure?  what is too much pressure?

3/ The new pump draws 9A.  Old fuse was 8A.  Is this an issue, and seems like I saw somewhere the old fuses need to be updated..

4/ Is BAD GROUND a common issue with the 230?  How can I tell..?
 
thanks for any input..  My car sits just itching to drive when the sun comes out.. jack

[jackhughes81]

Joe,
STATUS: The car started and runs for about a minute then stalls..  very much like starving for fuel...  I measured fuel pump pressure at less than 5psi, found replacement for about $700 but cant do that right now.  So I bought and installed an aftermarket inline fuel pump putting out about 2l/min at most 35psi (max).  I installed with an in-line fuel filter between the tank and new pump.  The car does start but runs very poorly, no misfires but very slow RPM (1000) and very rough.  No backfire or smoke cloud from exhaust.  Steppinig on accelerator does nothing.  I have checked the return fuel line and its flowing.  My question is simple.. is there too much volume and pressure for the FI pump to handle?
I have posted but still need some answers to the question of what is the acceptable input range to the FI pump.  There is no fuel in either the crankcase or the FI pump oil reservoir.  I have change the FI pump oil (black sludge) with synthetic.  I have tried to lean and enrich the FI pump (keeping records of the movement) to no avail.  I have disconnected the cold start valve in case of leakage into the intake manifold. 
Remembering everything ran fine (but for the apparent fuel starvation from a faulty fuel pump) prior to my replacing the fuel pump, any suggestions on how I should proceed?
jack

[ja17]

Check the fuel pressure with your current set-up

[County Guy]

Hi, everyone.  I have been reading this thread with interest as I have been experiencing similar fuel problems with my car.  I have been working to bring it back from 'near death' for about 4 years now.  It is almost ready and, like Jack, I'm eager to take it out for a spin.  Unfortunately, on two occasions it has left me stranded not far from home.  Once i managed to coast to a safe parking spot and leave it til the next a.m. when it started up fine but only just made it home.  The second time I had to have it towed.  I always starts up cold and will idle indefinitely running beautifully in the garage.  On the road, however, it runs for about 6-7 min. at 55 mph before exhibiting signs of fuel starvation.

So, here's where I'm at:

I had the fuel tank reconditioned by a professional tank specialist.  I have looked into the flowerpot and checked to ensure that the inlet hole under the return line is unobstructed.  It is.  The tank is full of gas so supply should not be a problem.

The fuel pump that came with the car was crap so I purchased another identical and used parts from both to rebuild the one.  The pump will easily fill the litre bottle in 10 sec. (both on the bench and mounted).  The little filter and the 'return fuel check valve' are in place on the pump.

The pump will NOT produce more than 6 psi (usually 4.5) before the filter.

The (CSV) and the (WRD) seem to be fine.

This is were I get lost.  I don't want to buy a new fuel pump only to find that this is not the problem.  I have seen how the pump works and I don't see how a rebuild could increase the pressure.  The fin tolerances and the rpm are predetermined.   Also, why will the car NOT start if I run the pump for a few min. to retore the supply before restarting? 

So, Is there something else I can look at before breaking down and sending the pump off to be rebuilt or buying a new one.  What do you think?  I've run out of ideas.

How did you make out, Jack?  Did find a resolve to your problem?

Thank you for any help you can give.

Lockie

[ja17]

Hook the gauge up at the engine. Unscrew the metal line going to the intake starting valve.  Clamp the gauge on the end of the line.

[glenn]

How about the CSV line?  Put the gauge on the line at the intake manifold.  If you have 15 psi there, you're in good shape...

[stickandrudderman]

JA17, you are a very patient man!

[glenn]

Somewhere I vaguely remember from MB literature the return check valve was to 'smooth out' and hold 15 psi.

[County Guy]

Thanks for all your help.  I will do as you suggest.  Would an increased psi at the CSV mean that the injector pump raised the 4.5 psi entering in from the filter to a higher psi at the CSV ?

PS.  I believe the check valve at the fuel pump merely prevents fuel from reversing it's flow when the pump in not in use.

Lockie

[ja17]

The original electric fuel pump is capable of producing over 30 psi of fuel pressure. If  you pinch closed or block the fuel return line, you should see the fuel
 pressure rise from around 15 psi. to  over 30 psi.  The pressure in the system is automatically lowered to around 15 psi by allowing most of the fuel to return to the fuel tank via the return fitting on the fuel injection pump. This fitting is designed to perform as a basic fuel pressure regulator. The early 230SL injection pumps had a more complicated fuel regulator built into the return line. It had a spring and some moving parts.

Your engine will never run correctly with fuel pressure less than 10psi. If you have low fuel pressure, your problem could be the result of several factors;

...........non original electric fuel pump not up to specs.

...........original electric fuel pump, not working properly and not up to specs.

............fuel supply problem (sediment in tank clogging fuel flow into flower pot, clogged tank screen, clogged electric fuel pump screen, clogged main filter, no fuel tank venting, electric fuel pump hung too high)


............improper, non-functioning or missing fuel regulator on the return line of the injection pump allowing large volumes of unrestricted fuel to return to the fuel tank.


Now if you have low fuel pressure, try pinching closed or blocking the return line to the fuel tank then take a fuel pressure reading. Your fuel pressure should rise to over 30psi.  If it does not, you will have to check all the items listed above.

I recommend using an original electric fuel pump or a rebuilt one. Very few aftermarket pumps work out. However there are some economical alternatives than can be used in case of emergency or in case originality is not an issue. Stick has used the later Bosch high pressure electric pump with success. Review his threads. Also the Carter #GP4601 HP will work and can be found easily and cost is around $100.00 US.  In every case, the electric fuel pump must be mounted level with the bottom of the fuel tank since fuel must be "gravity fed" to the electric fuel pump.

Keep us up to date.

[m300cab]

change all fuel line filters
DON'T FORGET the Fuel Filter Screen just before the Fuel Pump next to the gas tank
there is a screen in the tank and a screen screwed into the FUEL PUMP
this one had 3 mechanics stumped, paid $950 to experts , only to stumble on the problem myself
back in 1993!!!

[County Guy]

m300cab:  Thanks for the tip on the 'in pump' filter.  These small hidden traps can really keep us scratching our heads.  I removed and cleaned the one in my pump so I'm pretty sure it's ok.  I also replaced the return check valve in the other orifice thinking that I might be getting air in the lines because of the missing check.

ja17:  Thanks very much for the clear explanation and analysis.  You have pointed out several areas that I need to look at.  I read somewhere that the pressure was around 14 psi and assumed that that was all the pump was capable of producing.  I plan to take another reading with the return pinched off.  I believe my 230sl is the later one because the only thing I can find in the return line is the one at the exit end of the injector pump.  I had a look at that and was surprised to see that it is such a tiny hole through which the returning fuel must pass.  I guess this is what keeps the injector reservoir full of fuel, only allowing the excess to return and maintaining the pressure within.

So, checking through your list, it appears that my problem is a pump unable to produce the required psi.  I intend to test it as you describe, first on the car with the return line closed, and if I don't see the required pressure, I will test it on the bench, though I don't expect that will show any different result.  At that point I will look at the after market pumps you mention.  The Carter will serve while I have another look at the original.  I seem to remember some talk of shims in there that might be use to make better seals. I don't think I would want to stay with the aftermarket if I can rebuild the original.

Thanks again.  I'm feeling re-motivated.  There is a classic car event this weekend at the old Mosport raceway, now called the Canadian Tire something or other. I plan to check it out tomorrow but will get back at the 230sl on Sunday.

[jackhughes81]

I bought a standard 12v pump putting out max 35psi, 1.5l/min and installed.  The car will not start.  I checked CSV and the plunger functions but I am not sure if fuel going to manifold.  The plugs are not wet, even though I crank for a couple minutes.  I think the CSV spray nozzle is plugged? but I cant remember where in the manual to find how to physically clean it.  I will spray start fluid into manifold and see if fires.  jack

[ja17]

Now, re-connect your pressure gauge to check to see if you installation is producing proper pressure and volume. You may not have the system primed up yet? Remember the fuel pump must be gravity fed from the fuel tank, so make sure it is not mounted  too high.

[jackhughes81]

will do.. I took the csv valve apart and found the actual valve piece is missing... I think when I removed line to check pressure (long ago) I didnot see or realize the 'valve' was there..  is there a place to purchase replacement?  With no physical valve there is no fuel flowing so no flooding, but no start help as well.. thanks for the advice...  jack

[ja17]

Post the part number or a photo, since there are several versions.

[jackhughes81]

Joe,

I have installed the recommended replacement fuel pump per this forum, have plenty of flow and pressure at the FI pump.  I have good spark at least from a pull-the-plug arc test.  I crank and crank the starter with only a stumble of fire occasionally. Prior to this the car ran and stalled after a minute with very rough running.  I know the FI pump mixture control knob was SEVERELY adjusted.  I dont know where on its scale it is now.  Question is this: Is it possible to have a no start condition if WAY off?  How do I bring it into some spot that will allow me to start regardless of emissions?  Where should I set it?  I am hesitant to run it all one direction for fear of dialing off some internal threaded component and rendering it useless...  Any starting point?    I have enlisted a BMW motorcycle mechanic (Peter Meitencort)  to work on this German machine.  It is so close to starting, just seems to not fire continuously.  I also noted my radio no longer has power-checked at its fuse..  I dont find anything except a mention of inline fuse for where the power to the radio comes thru the fusebox... thanks so much for the help--- jack