Steering column positioning.

[georgem]

I am reinstalling the front suspension. I noticed that the indicators don`t self cancell any more when the wheel is turned. I remember reading a post about aligning the mark on the end of the steering shaft but cannot find it.

There is a score line across half the end face of the shaft (steering wheel end). Assuming this is the alignment mark, can someone tell me where this needs to be pointing please or is it more complicated.

Cheers

George

[George Des]

Interesting that you should ask this question because I'm right in the middle of replacing my power steering box. In fact, I just dropped it out about a half hour ago so that I can set up the new one perhaps tomorrow. I had asked the question about the shaft orientation some time back. The hash mark on the steering rod should be pointing to the 12 o'clock position and the blinkers hsould cancel correctly. I've taken Chuck Taylor's previously posted advice and pulled out the steering wheel column to ensure an easier line up and installation. So far so good with this. Now I have a releated question for the Forum. I need to change over the pitman arm from my old box to the new. I noticed that there is a hash mark on the side of the old pitman arm. My new box was delivered already centered with paint marks to show where center is. Does anyone know to what the hash mark on the pitman arm aligns to? This is on a 1967 230SL. I know the coupler is different from the discussions on the power steering box that had been previously posted to the Forum. I'm wondering if the pitman arm is different as well. My pitman arm has a number stamped on it that begings with 216.

George Des

[georgem]

George, nice coincidence. To realign the mark, do I have to drop the box, or will the shaft pull up into the car after I undo it at the box?  Is it worth starting from scratch - disconnect the shaft and the pitman, centre the box, attach the pitman in the central position then attach the shaft with the mark at 12 o`clock.

Cheers

George (am I now the other one as with Joe and Joe the other one)?

[jacovdw]

George,

Even though the alignment mark should point to the 12 o'clock position, please note that this is applicable to LHD vehicles only.
The BBB unfortunately makes no mention of RHD vehicles.

For RHD vehicles, the mark should point to the 6 o'clock position.

I found it easier to just drop the steering box on my 230SL as it was far less tedious than to fight with the steering column.
You ideally need a helper to keep the steering wheel aligned when you reintroduce the steering box input shaft back into the coupler.

Also, don't forget about the alignment bolt used to center the steering box.

[George Des]

Thanks, jacovdw. I did not know that about the RHD cars and I see that georgem is in Brisbane and may be in that situation. George, like I said, I followed Chuck Taylor's advice to remove the instruments and pull out the steering column so as to better allow the alignment of the steering shaft with the coupling. When I repaired the coupling a few years back, I did it the way the BBB recommends i.e. not removing the steering column. It can be done, but it is very difficult manuevering that heavy box and trying to keep the alignment of the marks correct. I got the box back in, but I obviously didn't get the alignment marks correct and like yours, my directionals would not cancel. I did not have the ambition to go back in and fix it until I realized, I needed to replace the box itself. I saw Chuck's post regarding his episode doing the same thing and I thought I'd give it a try. I hate working under the dash but like Chuck said, I will take this over trying to deal with a heavy box under the car!


George

[georgem]

George and Jaco thanks very much - Geo, can you give me a link to Chuck`s post re the column please, and Jaco (spot on with RHD) can you tell me where I find info on the steering box centering bolt? I`m starting to feel that I may as well check the lot; that the  box is centered, the steering geometry is roughly centered (before proper alignment) and the and finally the mark on the shaft is at 6.00.

Cheers

The other George

[66andBlue]

Here are pix of the alignment bolt that Jaco mentioned. It came in two version, one with a T-handle and the other with a hexnut head.
Both are NLA I believe, but try the part numbers shown in the second photo.

[georgem]

Thanks Alfred - trust MB to come up with a special tool for that too. I wonder if there are any backyard options................?

The other George

[George Des]

George,

Check this thread

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=6388.0;all

[georgem]

George,

Absolutely perfect - although just what I would expect from a chap with a name like yours.

Thanks

The other George

[jacovdw]

Here are pix of the alignment bolt that Jaco mentioned. It came in two version, one with a T-handle and the other with a hexnut head.
Both are NLA I believe, but try the part numbers shown in the second photo.

The screw with the 116 part number is available from Samstag Sales.
Have a look at the following link: http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#steering (5th item below the steering heading).

That is if you really want to pay US$67 for the said screw... 

I did exactly the same that Wallace Wheeler did in the post referenced to by George Des.
Took the cover bolt out of my steering box and went to my local nut and bolt supplier to find a suitable matching bolt (thread size and pitch).
Ground the tip and all for less than US$ 1...

[George Des]

I didn't use the centering bolt. The box came from the rebuilder with paint match marks to indicate where center is. I also was able to find the match marks on the output shaft for the pitman arm. It was a little difficult manuvering the box back into place under the car. Finally figured out I needed to use some smaller diameter rods through the bolt holes to line up and hold the box in place while I got a least one bolt started. Also needed to make sure the pitman arm was not installed prior to this lest the previoulsy set center positon be inadvertently moved by all this handling--don't need to worry about this if using the centering screw and may be the reason the factory recommends this. I did install the box with the coupling attached and tighened down so there is one less bolt to mess around with from the inside. I will install the steering column today and this looks like it will be fairly easy to do and maintain the center of the steering shaft. Only thing that will take some time is reassembling the left side of the dash--this is LHD-with the Speedo, tach and center cluster. After getiing this far, I have to agree with Chuck, this is a much better way to go than trying to lower the box from underneath with the steering column attached.

George