W113 Pagoda SL Group > Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes

Question re: timing chain guide rails

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pauldridge:
I'm putting my 280 SL engine back together after its 3 month visit to the machine shop... new guides, pistons, rings, bearings, etc...

While installing the two lower timing chain rails, I ran into a head-scratcher.  The shorter rail, underneath the large chain sprocket that also drives the injection pump, is shown in a third-party manual I have, as being installed with the longer end of the rail pointing UP (i.e., two pin holes at the bottom).  I tried this configuration, but find that the chain binds between the main sprocket and the guide rail.  Then I look at the exploded drawing from the Millers MBZ website, and it shows the the chain rail installed with the two pin mounting holes at the TOP, and the rail extending downward, per this picture (it's part 05-0001 in question:


This will solve my clearance problem, but before proceeding further, I wanted to make sure this is the correct configuration.  Can someone please confirm this?

Thanks
Phil
Austin

DavidBrough:
Hi Phil,

The Millers diagram is correct have a look here: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=12510.msg84705#msg84705

ctaylor738:
Presume you are talking about the Haynes book.  I ran into the same thing.  I think Haynes took the diagram from the parts book, which has the rail upside down.

wwheeler:
I know Phil is assembling his engine, but can you change out the guides w/o disassembling the engine?

pauldridge:
First, THANKS to David for this quick response.  Thanks to you, I got my basic internal engine together today.  All that is left is refurbing the accessories and hanging them back on.

To the other poster asking about changing guide rails without disassembling the engine:
1)  Are you sure this is an issue in your engine?  These things are pretty hardy... my old guides, in a very tired engine, were very serviceable.. if the new guides weren't so inexpensive, I might have been tempted to just use the old ones.
2)  Are you having problems with chain noise?  It could be that your chain is worn, hence longer length which can't fully be taken up with the tensioner.  I experienced this with another engine, and was able to successfully replace the timing chain without any disassembly of the engine (lots of good advice on this subject on this forum)

If you're certain you need to change the rails... my opinion:
a) The upper rail on top of the head, of course, can be easily changed by just removing the valve/cam cover
b) I do know for sure that you can slip the shorter lower guide (lower right side if facing the engine) in and out of the cavity without removing the chain.  However, to do this, you'd almost certainly need to remove the radiator and the distributor base housing to get to that guide.  Might have to remove the water pump also.  Even with that, you really need to get to the guide from underneath, i.e. by removing the oil pan.  It wouldn't be a pretty job.  Not sure if the longer guide rale on the left would come out with the chain in place.
Hope this helps
Phil/

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