My First Mercedes 230SL Restoration.. Exciting!

[fhernand]

12 hours later, I have finally finish up the gaps and bondo work on the hood.  I can now understand why so many of these cars have dents and dings on the hoods...they are very flimsy and when not properly closed, one can easily damage the hood.  It was a challenge adjusting the hood and closing the gaps to specs.  Front end damage and driver side fender replacement made things complicated.  I use RAGE light weight body filler.  Although expensive bondo, it leaves no pin holes behind and sands easily.  Any things over 1/4 inch deep of filler, I recommend using a stronger filler such as Dana max or all metal filler.  The first three heavy coats of Polyester filler primer are applied and ready to be blocked with 120 grit.  The hood, like the decklid, have to be blocked several times more since these are the panels you want perfection.  These are the panels people look at first.  Because they are both aluminum, its take little pressure to block otherwise, the panels sink as you add pressure to the block causing uneven blocking.  I have added a picture of what I would call a perfectly sanded and finished hood...mesmerizing indeed!  Of course, the paint process on this blue car, is many many many hours of labor and an entirely new thread.

[dseretakis]

Wow! Either you're a master at Photoshop or an incredible painter! That is nice work. You should have one happy customer.

[fhernand]

Oh no, I'm not taking credit for the blue hood.  Don't know who the craftsman was to finish the hood.  I know the process to get them this way, but the blue hood is not my work.  : )

[dseretakis]

Ok then.  Your panel gaps look very nice!

[fhernand]

Not really knowing how the hardtop comes apart, it took me 5 hours to disassemble...probably twice as much to put all back together.  Between gently removing chrome, glass, and rusted out screws, it was a laborious adventure.  One never knows what you will find once items are taken off to bare metal.  In this case, the hardtop had been leaking through rear lower and top seals causing major rust to eat it's way on the rear lower metal window suppot.  In this case, I highly recommend media blasting in order to remove all rust from the surface and pours of the metal.  Of course, the job is much easier done when headliner is removed.  Once metal has been clean, a new piece of metal should be welded in areas where rust made holes in the metal.  The new metal will in fact, bring back the support needed.  In order to remove stubborn rusted screws, I found that a small die grinder works the best.  It's a matter of cutting into the head of the screw.  The cut should allow you to use flat head screw driver instead of the Phillips which only spins and burr the top of the screw head.  The flat head will now give you a much stronger leverage.  The rusted screw will either break loose or, break the head of completely.  If the head breaks off completely, the chrome will not pull right off. 

[reggie]

Hope your putting a new headliner in there 

[fhernand]

Reggie, got that covered.  Headliner is going original Ivory.  Hardtop chrome will be redone.  Should look new thereafter. 

[fhernand]

After media blasting you have a better idea of just how much damage the rust accomplished.  A few holes in the metal is not as bad.  With minor holes I mig weld the holes closed being careful not to over heat the metal and warp the panel.  Instead of using bondo as a filler I recommend 3M Automix panel bonding for any rust craters.  The Automix dries extremely hard like metal.  One must use a grinder to take this stuff off.  This stuff only goes on clear bare metal.  After applying three coats of Epoxy Primer over the bare metal, it's ready for for primer and then paint. 

[Ulf]

Wow - you sure seem like a competent and thorough craftsman. The owner of this car is indeed a lucky man!

[fhernand]

Thanks for your compliment.  I'm really passionate about the work I perform.  I get much of satisfaction seeing the car completely done right and a happy owner.  I work on one car at a time which allows me to concentrate on the details and be thorough.  I strive to have integrity in my work.  One always wants the very best work done for your money.  Having to redo work twice due to the use of cheap materials or craftsmanship, is pretty darn expensive, in my opinion.  Thus far, I'm really happy with the process on Mark's Mercedes...things are going great. 

PS. I hope this thread will give owners of these great cars (230SL) some insight on the process of doing a complete bare-metal paint job.  I'm not a member yet, waiting for the opportunity to purchase one in the future

[Peter van Es]

Would it be ok for me to copy some of your texts and pictures to the Technical Manual under a topic of restauration?

That way we'll be able to preserve them well and makes it possible for people to keep finding this?

Peter

[fhernand]

Peter, that would be okay.  I don't think the text and pictures are thorough enough.  However, if you find them useful, by all means use them.  If I get another opportunity to do a second 230SL, I could be much more thorough and post something like a "101 How To" series of articles?  Thanks, Freddie 

[Larry & Norma]

That would be nice

[fhernand]

After a little sanding....hard as nails sanding of the Automix, I was able to apply two coats of epoxy primer and three coats of primer.  Also sprayed on three coats of the Ivory color.  When the upholstery guys get the top, his ready to cover it all up with some original German Vinyl material.  We won't worry about rust any longer on this top.  NOTE: It's crucial to get quality seals when installing the rear window, otherwise, they leak.  It appears the factory placed lot's and lot's of hard sealant under the chrome trim to circumvent leaks.  However, a properly placed window with good quality seals will go a long way. 

[fhernand]

Final sanding is a very important process leading up to base-coat and clear.  I like to do my sanding wet.  Adding a small amount of dish detergent into my water helps clean/degrease the panels.  I continued to use a sanding block first using 320 grit then 400 and final grit 800.  If not adding a sealer before the base-coat, I would stop at 400 grit.  Because these is the final sanding, I double and triple check there is NO dirt on the panel or water.  I keep a clean bucket of water that I only use for wet sanding.  If I use any rags to wipe the panels dry, I make sure these are clean and soft so they don't scratch my surface.  Once the panels are sanded and ready for paint, I don't touch any panels keeping them free of grease from hands..a clean pair of gloves work if you needed to lift or push on the car.  Final sanding is my favorite part of sanding.  Using fine grit paper actually allows you to see some gloss on the panels which helps you appreciate all you hard work gone into good body work.  NOTE: Avoid using bare hands to accomplish final sanding.  Using the palm of your hands will actually leave behind finger marks on the primer.  You will hate yourself when these show under your glossy paint work.

[fhernand]

It was a long day in the booth.  A clean paint job takes plenty of time prepping the car in the booth.  I like to wash the underside of the car prior to taking the car to the booth.  I always have an assistant in the booth with me at all times.  My helper is my second pair of eyes.  He handles the hoses, checks for dirt and pulls out any if found, helps me do the taping and degrease the car.  When there is low light in the booth, I use a Sunlight.  The light gives off "natural" light onto the panels and helps to avoid any areas that need more coats of paint.  I like to have all of my paints ready and mixed and in the guns.  If there is a time in the project that you need to be focused and ready, that time has come.  The booth of choice for me is the down draft.  It pulls any dirt and overspray straight down avoiding the flow of air to drag across your entire car.  Glasurit is a paint that is easy to work with and user friendly.  I follow the mixing and spraying recommendation.  Of course, there might be some variations on PSI out of the gun depending on the application.  Mark's car got three coats of base coat and three coats of clear.  Because you can only fit some much on the booth, I to use the both twice to get the hood, decklid, etc.  Next, it's time for buffing to a greater mirror finish.  Enjoy the pictures. 

[reggie]

I cant see you ever being out of work - thats a realy nice job, i finaly got mine back from the paint shop yesterday - they have made a good job too, one thing i noticed when i kept calling in was - instead of just masking the wheels they cut cardboad to fit inside the wings (fenders) so overspray cant get past under the wings, and they can get plenty on the wheel arches - i thought that was a good idea, also they put pastic string like washing line to lift up the windscreen rubber - so when they take the masking tape off there wasnt an edge left, another good idea, ime in my garage today cleaning it up, and putting things back on. 

Well Done
Reg

[JamesL]

Don't fancy a few weeks in the UK do you?

That's top work!

[fhernand]

Reggie- thanks for the good suggestions. I'm always looking for ways to improve the process.  Because I must Wurth undercoat the wells later, I did not bother with taping them off....the card board idea is one that is going in the note book for sure.  Please post pics of your car would love to see it.  Putting things back together is risky business.  Use plenty of tape on the edges of panels to avoid chips...ask me how I know?  :'(

Tosh- UK here I go.  Have pleny beer and be prepared to get dirty amigo.

Here are a few more pictures of the finished paint work.

[reggie]

My car is in photo section. thats before this recent work - I will do some more when its back together, I put one of the pins from the hard top down somewhere, and cant find it so ive just locked up and hope to find it tomoro-
Reg

[fhernand]

Having sprayed three good wet coats of clear, I can buff safely without buffing off to much clear.  You still want to have a good amount of clear on the paint for protection and durability.  It is important that you use a high quality clear. Having the right tools, buffing pads, and proper compond is critical.  I like using wet sanding paper on my orbital sander to cut a thin layer of clear.  I start with 1000 grit and finish with 1500.  I spray a fine guide coat over the panel...sounds crazy I know but this is important in order to get any dirt and minor imperfections out of the clear.  Also you want to have a orange peel free finish.  I tape the very edges of my hood to make sure I get no over spray on the back side of the hood when I mist the hood.  One light mist of black guide coat will suffice.  The guide coat helps in this case so that you do not sand through the clear.  No need to add any downward pressure on the buffer.  Let the machine do the work for you.  You must watch the edges of panel carefully.  The buffer will eat away faster on the edges.  If you buff through, you will have to repaint.  My first application of compound is a medium cutting compond.  I only work a small area at a time.  It's important to catch the clear when it is still soft.  Normally the next day is good if you are using a medium to fast hardener (they recommend right after cool down if baking your clear).  I follow up with a swirl removing compound using a foam pad making sure that no swirl is left behind.  I like buffing under a florescent light because it allows you to see finer scratches.  My final coat, if baking the finish clear, is two coats of wax.  Thereafter, you have a show room finish.

[dseretakis]

Looking good!  Thanks for the clear explanations. No pun intended

[JamesL]

Sorry, I may be being a bit thick but....

You left the wheels on, removed all the glass but left the interior etc in place? And used lots and lots of tape

I know my car needs work of a rust repair variety and am clutching at "please god, not a complete strip down" straws. That said, if I won the lottery I think I would dip and strip as David Brough has done

[reggie]

I cant see the point in making a load of work for yourself - if your not welding near the interior leave it alone. I think thats a great job in a very short time, id let him do mine for sure. Ime still puttin things back on my car that really didnt need to come off - 

[fhernand]

Tosh-taking the car to the upholstery shop for a full strip down.  Only used one roll of tape   If you do hit the lottery, send the car to me and I will dip and strip with a full nut, bolt and washer restoration.  Will put your car back together and deliver a concours finish in less than 6 months.  How is that for service?