Author Topic: MB Tex to leather conversion (Read 21611 times)

Bernd · « **on:** December 01, 2009, 16:24:05 »

Looking for tips on a couple of items in the conversion from MB Tex to leather. I have a '68 28osl with exterior color 158 (whitegray) that also had black MB Tex inside. Have decided to convert to leather, and after showing my wife and friends the leather options, nearly everyone really liked the parchment leather interior from GAHH. (turns out, it is exactly like Ed's on his motoringinvestments' georgeous Pagoda).

My question: since I am a do-it-yourselfer I am hoping for tips or detail photos or descriptions for a couple of items so I can play with it myself.
1. The upholstery trim at the bottom edge of the glovebox, specifically the appearance of the face of the upholstery to where it swings back at the sides. Is it sewn and glued, just cut and glued, or just stretched?

? (which would be tough due to the curves and the bunching effect of the extra material)..see attached pic of the area in question
2. The inside of the glovebox. I saw a reference to there being a sewn seam in the back where the leather sides and the roof piece come together and turn vertically downward). My MB Tex was of course just cut and glued there.
3. Dash cover over the Multifunction display and tach/speedo. How to avoid wrinkles underneath due to the radii difference between the top and the underneath. Best done with skiving the leather underneath? Stretch the top and leave the underside leather unworked ?? or any other suggestions on how to to avoid the wrinkles. I have attached a couple of of pics of my first attempt. Decent

, but not pefect as one can see.

w113dude · « **Reply #1 on:** December 01, 2009, 17:08:32 »

Dash piece is the most difficult one to do, as it has a lot of sharp corners & you can only stretch the material so much, in my case I did what a lot of professional upholstery shops do, that is to dye it. it would be almost be impossible to get to look like stock, it was originally done with a very thin vinyl and they were vacuum formed with heat, look for vinyl dye, you'll be much happier. (you may be able to do do all other pieces same way to match)

Good Luck,

Bernd · « **Reply #2 on:** December 01, 2009, 17:47:06 »

Hi, thanks for the reply. The question is more about the leather conversion, however. My Tex was perfect, but when I reupholster the pieces with leather is when the issues arise. I know about the Tex casting with the foam. It is impossible to remove the Tex from the substructure without significant damage to the foam, so the only realistic option is to stretch the leather over the vinyl. In a couple of cases I took 1/8 inch off the lateral edges of the pieces to make sure I don't have fit issues later due to the added thickness. So far, most pieces have been no problem, but I am looking for suggestions as to what worked for other folks, and what doesn't on the pieces in question. I am relatively happy with the look of mine so far, but if there is someone out there that has good pointers or pictures of an original leather interior that shows how it looks so I can duplicate the appearance.

mdsalemi · « **Reply #3 on:** December 02, 2009, 00:05:16 »

Bernd,

GAHH will cover the pieces for you. I know you are a do it your self-er, but without the experience that they have plus the tools to shave the leather, it isn't easy. GAHH did all my dash pieces some years ago, flawlessly.

menesesjesse · « **Reply #4 on:** December 03, 2009, 04:57:46 »

I am in the process of doing my leather. The speedo/tach combo I feel is the hardest peice since there is so much to work when it comes to stretching. My dash and under parts were pretty easy. I made my kick panels from scratch and all the leather looks great. I would agree with Mike to get the speedo/tach done if you want it perfect. Extreme patience will help if your are doing the rest yourself. My dash came out very nice but it took 2 days of stretching. I am doing mine in blue and it smells very nice. PM me and I can send some pictures. I will send my door panels out later along with my seats to finish the job. good luck
Jesse

Garry · « **Reply #5 on:** December 03, 2009, 07:41:14 »

In the corners of the dash are the hardest to do and I took several tries at getting it right. At PUB this year a talk was given on doing the leather fit and the use of a hair dryer for heating and stretching was recommended. Skiving the leather at the hard corners/curves and over any vinyl where necessary. All in all a not too difficult job provided you do it with patience and effort until right. Wish I had known all that when I did mine a couple of years ago!!!
Good lessons learned from the PUB Tech sessions.

Bernd · « **Reply #6 on:** December 03, 2009, 13:38:17 »

Thanks for the tips, Gary. The recomendations are spot on. There are definitely a couple of tricks that the pros already know, and amateurs like me have to figure out the hard way. For example, I find that the hides are more stretchy in certain parts, i.e. where the extremities come off. I find if I use those areas for parts that need more stretching it gets easier. Skiving with a skiving tool DEFINETLY helps ( don't cringe, but careful! use of a belt sander at reasonably low speeds works awsome to thin the leather evenly.
The instrument cover piece was one of the first I tried overall and was not skived. I think I will just redo it and this time try it that way, using compression (shrinking) of the thinned leather on the underside and a bit of stretching on top. On the first go around I did not stretch the top which gives too much thick leather on the bottom to lay completely smooth. Anyhow, these are my experiences. The "pros" on the forum are most likely grinning and cringing at the same time, but what the heck. For me its about the fun of doing it, not to be their next competitor in the upholstery business

66andBlue · « **Reply #7 on:** December 03, 2009, 16:45:37 »

Quote from: Garry on December 03, 2009, 07:41:14

... At PUB this year a talk was given on doing the leather fit and the use of a hair dryer for heating and stretching was recommended. ...

Just to be clear on this. Wetting leather with a water sprayer helps with stretching, then slightly heating it with a dryer will shrink it again.

zoegrlh · « **Reply #8 on:** December 05, 2009, 09:28:46 »

Bernd,
I was the one who gave the talk at PUB this year. I will be glad to guide you. My e-mail address is: zoegrlh@aol.com
It really only takes time and just working with the leather. The piece over the Tach and Speedo is "really" not that hard to do. Start at the lip and work down towards the windsheld side. Do not pull around the lip until last. You will then pull and stretch over lip making sure that the wrinkles are out. Use 3M "Super" trim glue in a spray can for best results. As for you other dash pieces that are in vinyl, leave vinyl on and glue leather over. This is what MB did at factory for the leather optioned SLs. Ant yes the hardest pieces to do are the dash pieces at the door jams. Took me a couple of days to do each to assure that no wrinkles were in them. With the #M product, you can pull off what part you want to rework. Hair dryer is a must. I did not wet leather because GAHH said not to, however, have talked to some that did and had good results.
Bob Hyatt

zoegrlh · « **Reply #9 on:** December 05, 2009, 09:31:49 »

Oh yes one more thing, pull vinyl of the tach & speedo cover to the bare wood, then cover with leather, all other dash pieces leave on vinyl to cover with leather.
Bob

Bernd · « **Reply #10 on:** December 05, 2009, 15:30:21 »

HI Bob. My sincere thanks you for your advice! I was thinking pretty much what you said. I also found a great way to stretch the leather is to turn it upside down, use a moist kitchen cloth over it, then use a steam iron over the cloth to heat and moisten the leather at the same time without having to worry about the finish side of the leather getting too wet or hot.. That really seems to work if done carefully. I started this proces with the areas on the pieces that need the stretching, then the rest I just heat lightly with the blowdryer where i need the leather to just lie flat in order to avoid wrinkles when gluing the leather down.One question on the tach piece: on that piece on my car there is quite a bit of foam visible at the edges. Just to make sure, you DO recommend pulling the vinyl off that piece? The mistake I made on that piece is that I started not at the edge ITSELF, but where the top flat part meets the edge. A very important distinction obviously:). Believe it or not, I fing a belt sander on the underside of leather is a great tool to evenly thin it if done carefully too.

This topic would definitely be a GREAT addition to the tech manual, as so many of these cars are getting converted to leather nowadays. The manual itself is very incomplete on that topic so far.

Perhaps I should take pictures as I do the rest of the pieces and submit them IF they turn out?

Or if there are members that have already done that........

Peter van Es · « **Reply #11 on:** December 05, 2009, 22:36:23 »

Quote from: Bernd on December 05, 2009, 15:30:21

Perhaps I should take pictures as I do the rest of the pieces and submit them IF they turn out? Or if there are members that have already done that........

You should... it's the only way the manual will get better!

Peter

zoegrlh · « **Reply #12 on:** December 09, 2009, 13:09:54 »

Bernd,
For the Tach/Speedo cover piece. Pull the vinyl off first. Under the vinyl is a molded wood piece that is held down by two screws to the dashboard, one on the left side and one on the right side. You should have this wooden part already off, as I read your messages. Anyway, with the wood bare you just glue leather directly onto the wood. There was no foam padding on this piece. At least the leather optioned SLs. Let me know how it turns out.
Bob

Bernd · « **Reply #13 on:** December 14, 2009, 05:19:10 »

Well, the most difficult parts of my leather conversion are done! After I get the glovebox cleaned up I will tackle it next. Have an idea on how to get the leather between the door hinge and the box itself without having to drill out the rivets that are so tought o find. I have attached a few pictures to show the progress. None of the pieces are screwed down yet, so those little gaps visible on a couple of the pictures will disappear once that's done...

Thanks to everyone that has given me input. It sure has made things a lot easier. Only ironic part is now that I am finally figuring out what works and what doesn't, I am almost done

Bernd

66andBlue · « **Reply #14 on:** December 14, 2009, 05:39:17 »

Bernd,
excellent job, a professional could not have done it better!
Can't wait to see the pictures.
Why would you need to drill out rivets for the glove box door? The hinge can be removed, at least it is removable on my 230SL.

Garry · « **Reply #15 on:** December 14, 2009, 10:08:51 »

Looking very good Bernd,

They say the learning in the first restoration makes the second one much easier!!!

w113dude · « **Reply #16 on:** December 14, 2009, 12:13:22 »

Beautiful job Bernd.

Bernd · « **Reply #17 on:** December 16, 2009, 04:52:04 »

Still hoping to find someone with an original interior glovebox lining in leather on a 280SL. If You have one I would really appreciate a picture of the interior seams. Also, has anyone found a source for the "pappe", i.e. the 2mm cardboard material that is underneath the TEX or(?) the leather under the bottom covering? Mine was destroyed during my ignorant disassembly of the box lining, and Mercedes does not have it available any longer.

Bernd

menesesjesse · « **Reply #18 on:** December 17, 2009, 05:48:44 »

I did mine in 2 pieces. The piece was sewn from 2 pieces of leather. I used glue and it came out pretty good considering it was my first try I think. I may have the original still if you want a picture of that.
Jesse

66andBlue · « **Reply #19 on:** May 18, 2010, 04:26:35 »

Quote from: Bernd on December 16, 2009, 04:52:04

..... Also, has anyone found a source for the "pappe", i.e. the 2mm cardboard material that is underneath the TEX or(?) the leather under the bottom covering? ....

Hi Bernd,
I received 2 ft x 3 ft of a material that comes very close to the original as shown in the photo and would be happy to send you a portion. The "pappe" was only used on the the bottom, not in the side and top wall.

Bernd · « **Reply #20 on:** May 18, 2010, 12:03:22 »

Hi Alfred!
Just got back from vacation in Myrtle Beach. I saw the link you sent me too. Thanks so much. If you wouldbe able to send me a piece that would be awesome. I would of course want to pay you for your expenses in terms of time, material and hassle factor!
Things like this make this forum so wonderful!

Bernd

dseretakis · « **Reply #21 on:** May 18, 2010, 13:37:43 »

I'm also contemplating a vinyl to leather conversion at some time. What do you all think about the originality issues associated with this?

bogeyman · « **Reply #22 on:** May 18, 2010, 13:57:31 »

I have an original green tex interior that needs refurbishing. I have not been able to find green tex anywhere, so there is no other option than to use leather. I think if you do it completely and correctly it will not diminish the value to the great majority of buyers - it may even increase it.
In my search I have had samples of "tex" sent from many suppliers - none of them are the original material or of the quality of the original so you can't really replicate the original tex with currently available materials. The original vegetable tanned, spray dyed leather is also very difficult to source today.

66andBlue · « **Reply #23 on:** May 18, 2010, 18:24:18 »

Bernd,
the "Irish felt" piece is in the mail. I am curious what you think.

66andBlue · « **Reply #24 on:** July 17, 2012, 03:32:56 »

Quote from: zoegrlh on December 09, 2009, 13:09:54

... For the Tach/Speedo cover piece. Pull the vinyl off first. Under the vinyl is a molded wood piece that is held down by two screws to the dashboard, one on the left side and one on the right side. ...... Anyway, with the wood bare you just glue leather directly onto the wood. There was no foam padding on this piece. At least the leather optioned SLs. ......

Hi Bob,
I am at this point on my 280SL and as you can see there is a thick foam layer under the vinyl layer on my car. I am not sure whether I should really remove this layer.
The front edge with the vinyl is about 13 mm thick and then the layer gets thicker towards the instruments to about 18 mm where the vinyl stops and the chrome trim piece attaches.. If I remove this foam layer then I'll have a sharp edge in front because the plywood is only 3.5 mm thick. How thick is the front edge on your cover? Are these edges on 280SL cars with leather really thinner than MBTex cars?

66andBlue · « **Reply #25 on:** July 20, 2012, 17:00:39 »

Some more inspection of this cover piece revealed that contrary to the advice given by zoegrlh one CANNOT remove the foam layer without destroying the cover. After removing the vinyl layer - which is quite different from the MB-Tex that one finds on seats, it resembles more a stiff very thin Formica layer - one can see that the front edge is not wood but molded foam and is an integral part of the cover.

Fortunately while removing the vinyl layer I was careful enough to preserve the foam layer. There were some air bubbles hidden under the vinyl that I filled in with some vinyl speckling compound and then sanded smooth.
Now comes the tricky part of covering the piece again with leather - made more difficult because GAHH informed that they cannot skive the leather for me since their machine is broken. So back to hand skiving by sanding it down.

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