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... at a 130 km driving speed ...
We were using lights , window wipers ...
130 km/h in the rain in a Pagoda?  You are comfortable taking risks!
(That's 80mph for the mathematically challenged.)
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Just do a quick forums search.  Many discussion threads on it.  It's something new owners never know about.  Also, do a search for water pump lubrication, which is another 230SL thing.
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Tomorrow is the day.
Calipers have been returned. All parts have been accumulated. I have a snap on pressure bleeder but Pedro the mechanic has his own…
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Total loss of electrical power.
« Last post by CJHenderson on Today at 16:54:44 »
I pick up the new starter this afternoon and install it then work backwards; I did an ohm check on the positive battery cable that checked good. If no power, then it will mean pulling all the dash instruments out to trace for what other damage happened.
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Is there a separate screen for the fuel pump? Or are you referring to the in tank screen/filter? Because that has been done.

Yes, there is a separate screen INSIDE the fuel pump. Copied from my previous comment above...

"There is a screen inside the fuel pump, follow the hose from the tank to the pump. Undo the hose at the pump, buzz off the fitting which I believe is a 27mm. Then you will see the screen, inspect, clean and re-install."
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Since you already have done many other fuel system items, clean the screen inside the fuel pump first.
Is there a separate screen for the fuel pump? Or are you referring to the in tank screen/filter? Because that has been done.
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1970 280SL auto

Trans shifts up and down, kick down works, but it has a very harsh up shift. Down shifts are very smooth. Everything else works.

Any ideas would be welcomed.
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Possible failed helical drive gear. Engine will continue to run until it doesn't. 

I've had three engines in over the past year or two that had everything from broken connecting rods to broken cam bearings.

 Oil pump will not run when this gear fails and you probably won't catch it in time if driving at speed. Remove your tack cable at the cylinder head end and use a small sheet metal screw to insert into the hole in the end of shaft that spins the tack cable. If you can pull it up very much at all the bushing holding gear down is worn. This allows the two gears to come out of mesh with each other and shear the teeth off. This is a critical part of your engine and it should be at least a yearly inspection.

The gears are sold in sets only and will likely not have the extended wand on the gear that runs your tack cable.

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Thanks for your replies. I've heard a number of Pagodas in the past and mine is much louder especially at speed. I understand the cautions but, as at least an intermediate step, I'm going install the good Eberspacher I have in the system and cross my fingers. Bora East had a resonator in stock to replace the one I had and it did make a small difference. I'll keep you all posted.

Just understand that anything made by "Borla" will be louder by design. Louder than stock, and louder than other systems. That's their MO. While some systems such as the OEM or a TimeValve only have ONE system, Borla has three dB levels: loud, louder and loudest. They go by their names of Touring, S-Type, and ATAK. They also have a race-only system called XR-1.

Good luck and report back on how it all fits together for you.

Doesn't apply to you, but in North Carolina any modification to a street-legal vehicle's exhaust system to make it louder than the OEM stock system is prohibited. Doesn't stop all the wannabe NASCAR drivers with their exceedingly loud cars here. Police have more things to worry about and loud cars persist.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Total loss of electrical power.
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 14:10:02 »
It puzzled me as well...

If/when solenoid failed, there might have been surge in current - burnt something on the connector plate on engine? Burnt the connector on lights switch? Fried ignition switch?

Curious - if you read voltage on battery - where does it stop showing voltage?
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