Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: yves on January 14, 2023, 15:35:22
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Well after refurbishing the heater levers 2 years ago .... and replacing some dash bulbs ::) i missed working deeply in the bulkhead.... :o
I was lucky to hear some strange metal noise coming from the heating area !
After a look through the air aperture i saw the heating core metal plate unwelded...
So i'll dive soon inside the bulkhead .
After reading the tech manual i saw some foam glued on the cover plate and my question is what kind of foam may i use with the heat of the radiator?
What could be the temp of the radiator ?
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A search if "heater core foam" turned up several threads.
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Waiting for the foam, milestone today :) the heatercore is on my bench .....
I am happy.... i can go to bed .... my back is tired !
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Congrats!
I'm NOT looking forward to doing that job.
*sigh*
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I have a question related to Yves photo 2 posts ago:
Years ago, while refurbishing my heater core valve (for the first time), I found the rectangular plate shown in Yves' photo detached from the heater core. After some looking around, I decided that this plate was not critical, and put it in my spare parts box.
What purpose does it serve, and do I need to get it re-attached?
Thanks for any advice,
-David
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Hi David i have the same question.... ! i think this plate can concentrate the air to the blower impellers . I have noticed before and after this plate was unwelded a difference of the temp in the car when i switched on the warm levers.
But may be it's only an idea...?
For sure i'll have a comparisonwhen the core will be in the car after refurbishing...
BTW , the left bracket was unwelded too but the heatercore kept its location squeezed between the core and the "chassis" .
I have read that this plate was covered with foam .... but not sure what side it is glued. exterior side make sens ...i think ? mirror of the other side which has also a foam on it
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Hi,
I think this sheet metal has two functions.
1. To stabilize the heat exchanger and
2. to guide the airflow.
But what is really important is good insulation, since the heat exchanger is surrounded by sheet metal all around and the heat would therefore radiate there. The insulation above and below is not a problem, as there is enough space available. But it is very narrow on the left and right, so that only a very thin insulation fits.
...WRe
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Hi WRE , i confirm about the side squeeze....! i had some pain to pick out the core from the "chassis"
The left bracket unwelded is not flat , but has a curve which goes outside as the right bracket .
I don't know if it is a factory fit or if it has been done by a bulkhead ghost...!
Anyway that explain the difficulty to do the job at the end.
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These are original and are used to mount the heat exchanger. Mine came loose too. By looking at the marks on the bracket you should be able to tell the exact location. Any decent radiator shop should be able to solder them back on and rebuild the core if necessary. I made the mistake to have a vendor (Buds Benz) rebuilt it. (Very expensive and questionable quality.)
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Thanks, Yves and WRe. It sounds like a job I will save until I really have to pull the heater core. :P
-David
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I did this job, and... For the first time it's critical because you're not ready to remove so much things... radio front dash, levers and its complete sytem, heater ventilation, glovebox...
Now That I know it's obvisously much straight forward...
I had to re core the heater because it was leaking for probably a while when I bought the car... and with years... created rust and moisture underneath the carpet on the driver's side. I also had the surprise to see that the drain hoses collecting the rain water were toasted, so much that it also probably increased the rust causes at the same location...
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I would if possible take the core to a radiator repair and give a couple of spot welds over the original ones. You make sure the clank does not return and you visit the bulkhead area once.
Alessandro
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Yes, those metal plates are soldered together. They make solders with varying strength. The higher percentage of tin to lead, the stronger the solder was back then. These days a lead/tin solder might not be possible, however, I suspect that various strength solders are still available.
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Funny you should mention about that plate. I had to get under the dash years ago when I bought mine and when I put it together I had that plate left over. I couldn’t remember if it even came out of my car. I’ve held onto it all this time (phew). I guess sometime I’ll take it apart again to put it back in.
Not excited.