Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: tarheel on October 04, 2022, 14:56:16
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I’ve read the forums regarding tachometer removal . I’ve hit an impasse in the process of accessing tachometer.
I’ve successfully removed left dash pad but that does not significantly improve access to my surprise and disappointment.
Please see image . Can someone indicate on my image what needs removal at this point to access tachometer ?
Just not clear to me how with my large size and hands that access is possible. If I know what to move out of the way at this point it might (may) help.
Even with access is there a view to remove bracket with my hands? Seems like flying blind
I’m 6’1” and not a contortionist.
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I just installed mine. I dropped the bracket holding the connectors shown in your pic. My seat an steering wheel were removed as well.
I was lying on my back with my head right next to the brake pedal. In that position I could see the knurled nut clamping the tachometer. It’s a real pain. (I am 6.2)
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Thanks.
By "dropping the bracket" do you mean take out the one screw that appears to secure a ground wire and the folded black metal support brace, and then just pushing that mass of wire to the side as you access?
I don't see the tachometer bracket in your images - I'm assuming you had removed it when taking this photo.
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My tachometer bracket (the metal c- bracket) that clamps the tach to the dash-wall, is shown in place, held with the knurled knob. In order to get the tach out , you will have to remove the knob and the bracket will „fall“ out. You can than slide the tach forward to remove the drive cable / lights.
Yes , the Z type metal bracket, held with two screws in the lower dash is what I dropped to get my hands in. (Not sure it’s absolutely necessary)
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Removing the tack sucks but reinstalling it double sucks.
! Note location of the clamp before You remove it. It has to go back in the same position.
Remove the bracket holding the electrical connectors attached to the underside of the dash for more room. Wiggle your hand up into the dash and remove the barrel shaped nut holding the metal “clamp”. At this point you will probably drop the nut on your face followed by the clamp. Pull the tack out of the front of the dash just enough to get your fingers behind it to unscrew the tack cable. Pull it a little further to remove the wire for the tack lights.
Putting it back in requires a lot of finger dexterity to position the clamp, hold the tack in place with the other hand and somehow get the nut installed to hold the clamp. I have done this twice in the last year and it can be done but you may have a few words to say in the process.
Also I removed the drivers seat but my shearing column was installed.
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Don’t forget your wife standing there and giving you pointers, while you are lying in there stuck.
;D
(Also, Don’t forget the brown ground wire when reassembling)
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Good news and bad news.
Thanks to guidance , tachometer and wood bows removed.
But tachometer threaded end pulled out of cable . Is this repairable?
Can’t imagine how the tachometer will be reinstalled given my hands and space constraints but will try.
Wife inspirational as usual - “do you know what you are doing?l
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Probably best to get a new tack cable or try to crimp it back in place with pliers.
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On second thought just replace the cable considering how much of a pain it can be to remove the tac. you dont want to be doing it twice.
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Wife inspirational as usual - “do you know what you are doing?l
;D OMG! I've heard that so many times!! Actually, the answer is almost always "no" because almost everything I do is something I'm doing for the first time ever. :D
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Doing it for the first time is what makes it fun. ;)
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I suppose my next forum search is “how to replace tach cable”.
First timer aforementioned post.
Tips on tach cable replacement and related Tylenol welcomed
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You need to be a Full Member to search and access the Technical Manual.
As Jonny B and i have said many times, I would highly recommend that you join the group as a Full Member. The Technical Manual will prove the value of the membership time and time again.
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Buy a new tach cable and lube it with tranny fluid before install. I hate to say it, but make sure you buy new gaskets for the tach, instrument cluster and Speedo. if the speedo bounces, send it out to Speedometer.com for fixin. worth it. And you may want to put in LED bulbs across in all the gauges to see them at night, the old 2v incadescents suck. make sure you have a retractable magnet so you can retrieve the dropped parts. Keep Band aids nearby. You really don't want to do this procedure more than once in your life. And we haven't even mentioned the heater control levers yet. Ooh, bad memories. I have the luckiest zip code in the world as I live 4 miles from Joe Alexander.
Oh Yeah, the $30 per year SL113.org membership for technical access is the best money you will ever spend. Good Luck.
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Noted on the membership fee for full Technical Manual.
Some Questions now that I've opened up dash, posted progress, and am refinishing the dash wood.
Advise the best LEDs for the dash? Full series available? I see Buds Benz has standard dash bulb kit only.
Gaskets - recommend to purchase all from what vendor?
Agreed - do not wish do undertake this again.
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There is a lot of information in the tech manual on the Led’ s for the instrument lights.
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Before you put the tach or speedo back in, drill small holes in the brackets and secure the ground wires with a small screw and nut. This will save you the aggravation of trying to put the wire on the post while holding the nut.
Authentic Classics is my goto for the gaskets.
LOL. I was thinking that at the next Pagoda gathering we could have a tach race with teams of two. One guy takes the tach out, and hands it to his partner who puts it back in.
CT
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Teams of three might be better, the third member handles the first aid.
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Best time to do it would be when the wife is on a long shopping trip with friends that will meet after for afternoon coffee :)
Dieter
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How did they ever install the tach on the assembly line???
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Schwartzwald Elfen!
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Tarheel,
Agree with Chuck on Authentic Classics on the Gaskets. George is a great guy. If you are a paid SL113.org member he'll give you 10% off, so that will probably help with the membership fee. I'm not sure if our membership gets you a discount at CVS for band-aids and neosporin or not.
Superbright LED in St. Louis is who I used. The tech manual has the shopping list for bulbs. if you have questions I can tell you what i bought a decade ago. you have to leave a couple of incadescent 2v bulbs on the instrument cluster board for impedance purposes.
https://www.superbrightleds.com
Mike
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Maybe a moderator can move this under Electronics and Instruments forum?