Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: mdsalemi on August 05, 2022, 17:50:57
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…it’s removing the oil filter that’s always messy!
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Nice grass.
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Michael,
You need a hoist, even if it is just the X lift type………….
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Nice grass.
TifTuf Bermuda Hybrid.
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You need a hoist, even if it is just the X lift type………….
I'd love a lift of any kind. Would make many things easier. However the oil change mess is purely because of the location of the oil filter canister, AND the fact that it is horizontal. Even after letting everything drain there is no way not to spill a little oil from the canister/filter assembly once you get it off. Oh, yes, I've tried to stuff some rags in there, and caught some of it but sometimes they just get in the way. Not all the stains on those pieces of cardboard are from THIS oil change. Some are the various leaks from sitting, or working on bicycles or any number of dirty things that if they got on the concrete, my wife would NOT be pleased.
The horizontal mount of the oil filter is a really poor design.
I'm always on the hunt for TV boxes and similar to collect large sheets of cardboard.
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This is a handy device that I use and store it under my 230SL when not used 8)
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This is a handy device that I use and store it under my 230SL when not used 8)
Really nice! Who makes that?
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I've bought mine locally in Sweden, they are called Quick jack, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=604M7x7CfoY
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I bought this one for in my garage, no regret at all. ;D
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Did you make those jack blocks, or jack plates, or whatever they're called, yourself? That's pretty cool.
How can owners using the jacking holes ensure there is no rust that's hidden?
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Quick jack should be available from Costco.
Even harbour freight has a copy sometimes
The harbor freight mid rise hoist for $1,999 would be my choice - its not bendpack quality but looks fine for our smaller cars.
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I'd love a lift of any kind. Would make many things easier. However the oil change mess is purely because of the location of the oil filter canister, AND the fact that it is horizontal. Even after letting everything drain there is no way not to spill a little oil from the canister/filter assembly once you get it off. Oh, yes, I've tried to stuff some rags in there, and caught some of it but sometimes they just get in the way. Not all the stains on those pieces of cardboard are from THIS oil change. Some are the various leaks from sitting, or working on bicycles or any number of dirty things that if they got on the concrete, my wife would NOT be pleased.
The horizontal mount of the oil filter is a really poor design.
I'm always on the hunt for TV boxes and similar to collect large sheets of cardboard.
Lots of cars have horizontal mounted oil filters. Are they also of poor design?
I believe MB did that because of the oil cooler lines, which would also be poor design because of the larger engine requiring extra cooling.
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I'm sure this has been covered umpteen times before, but to save me searching, on a 1965 230 that covers less than 3,000 miles per year, how often would you recommend the oil is changed?
Thanks
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I'm sure this has been covered umpteen times before, but to save me searching, on a 1965 230 that covers less than 3,000 miles per year, how often would you recommend the oil is changed?
Thanks
Once a year
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Hopefully not hijacking the thread
I fully agree, once a year. Even sitting the oil can pick up moisture. It is a cheap, good practice.
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Thank you both
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Lots of cars have horizontal mounted oil filters. Are they also of poor design?
If you make a mess removing (oil leaking out over frame and other parts) an oil filter due to its location, then yes, it's a poor design. Just because it's MB don't think everything they do is perfect. Does anyone remember their incredibly stupid bowing down to the "greenies" and putting self-destructing organic wiring insulation on their wiring harnesses? No other auto manufacturer did anything so incredibly poor in design or execution regarding wiring; pity the people that suffered with this nonsense.
In a commercial oil change place, they may, on a lift, be able to quickly remove the filter, and drop it in one of those elevated collection canisters. Perhaps a minimal mess, easily cleaned. Cleaning is much easier on a lift, rather than on your back, and even at a dealership, very difficult to do without leaking oil on parts in the way. But really, is it necessary? A vertically mounted filter allows an oil change with little to no mess...which is a better design.
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Am I missing something? My oil filter is not mounted horizontally?
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Am I missing something? My oil filter is not mounted horizontally?
230 and 250 are vertical. 280 is mounted on an angle to clear the oil cooler lines.
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I'm sure this has been covered umpteen times before, but to save me searching, on a 1965 230 that covers less than 3,000 miles per year, how often would you recommend the oil is changed?
Thanks
That depends on what kind of oil you use and the type of driving you do. If you do mostly high speed, steady, open road driving, and you use synthetic oil, 3,000 miles is a waste. If you put around town using regular oil, 3,000 miles might be a good idea.
I have tractors and other farm machinery that get oil changes every 400 - 500 hours when recommended is every 100 hours* on regular 15 W 40. I use a premium synthetic that has a TBN of 12 so it lasts a long time. We change oil filters at 100 - 200 hour intervals.
* one engine hour is roughly 60 miles.
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Thank you Dan
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Yes, I’ve made them myself.
My car is rustfree, so I trust the jack points.
Oil change should be done every year but if it should be changed when the car is parked for the winter or taken out in the spring, I don’t know.
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I have been told that its best if you are storing the vehicle over the winter to change oil before putting it away so it sits with fresh oil (but you have to promise not to start the car - not even once) and then you need to change again in the spring ... so most people I know just change in the spring because temptation gets the better of them and they will start the car up once or twice over the winter ....because thats what we do.
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Really…, that’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard! Well, “And cows can fly” ?
Where and when did that myth start?
Mind as well leave it empty through the winter season and create more damage when you start it again 5 months later with fresh oil…, genius!
Then again, I do not live in that type of climate. So, perhaps I need to learn something about this way of preservation.
Cheers and God Bless,
JohnnyC
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Really…, that’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard!
Not as ridiculous as it may sound. While I have not heard any data-based facts on the matter, I have heard of two schools of thought. Both seem plausible.
First is change the oil prior to storage so your oil isn't sitting with its contaminants all winter. Changing the oil and the filter assures good clean oil for storage.
I have not heard the "not starting at all" but was always suggested that if I was going to start the car in the winter, then let it warm up, and run it for a bit. When my car was stored in Michigan over the winters for the first 20 years after restoration, I occasionally found myself at the storage location, no snow or moisture on the roads. So I could do it. The weather had to be in my favor however. This first thought--before--seems to be the prevailing thought.
The other school of thought is start the new season with fresh oil; any oil will accumulate moisture over long term (winter storage) so get whatever you have in there out at the start of the season.
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I personally change oil in spring when I start to use my cars for the season as I never start my cars during the storage period, why should I do that?
Boats are normally serviced when they are stored for the winter, I’ve never heard about boat engines are started now and the during winter storage.
I don’t know what’s best but spring oil change works fine for me.
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change the oil before storage and get the crud out rather than give it months to coagulate into sludge.
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I personally change oil in spring when I start to use my cars for the season as I never start my cars during the storage period, why should I do that?
Boats are normally serviced when they are stored for the winter, I’ve never heard about boat engines are started now and the during winter storage.
I don’t know what’s best but spring oil change works fine for me.
Where I lived in the USA, there was a huge difference between "laying up a boat" for winter storage, and an old collectible car. Of course it's different in different climates.
The boat has all the cylinders fogged with a special fogging oil. As boat engines don't generally have a closed loop cooling system, you need to add some antifreeze into the system to get into the "nooks and crannies" to prevent freeze damage. Many also fill the tanks, adding a special additive such as Sta-Bil or Sea-Foam. Bilges are purged dry, pumps are dried, etc. Doing this doesn't lend itself to a quick run around the lake on a nice day in January (even if the lake isn't frozen) since you'd have to repeat all these steps once again.
I suppose some may fog their Pagoda engines prior to winter storage, etc. but mainly you change the oil and fill the tank if that's your chosen protocol. Stabilize the fuel if you choose. If you have a nice dry day, no harm in warming it alll up and taking for a good "Italian tune up". I did not always get a chance to do this...
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I add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel before laying up the cars and motorcycles for the 8 months they will not be used.
I don't replace the oil in the spring. I know it's the thing to do, but I don't expect that good engine oil will contaminate or deteriorate just by sitting inside an engine that does not operate for 8 months. Last year I changed the oil in the 3 cars here in France and 8 months later it 'looks' brand new. Since these cars get relatively little use for the 4 months that we do use them, I generally only replace the oil after 3 years.
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This is a handy device that I use and store it under my 230SL when not used 8)
Love it
Wonder if Santa will buy me for Christmas, albeit I’m not sure I’ve been THAT good this year
🤣
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i have a mityvac oil evacuator for my 98' c230 that i use when changing the oil on my other cars.
I evacuate as much oil on my other cars as possible before pulling the drain plug.
the next challenge is the oil filter on the 230 sl.
i can replace that filter on my own but its always nice to have a helping hand to apply the counter hold on the top bolt
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So, how much moisture do you expect to find in 5 liters of oil over winter storage? If your engine is running at proper temps, and you put it away fully warmed, why would there be any condensation in your oil.
All oil changes are messy without a hoist.
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The volume of air in the engine above the oil level will cool and moisture will condensate out of it. It is a very common scenario in exhausts and that's why they rust from the inside out. No matter how hot they are getting. The procedure to change oil BEFORE storage is a common practice for anybody who stores vehicles over the winter. I have 19 of them.
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The volume of air in the engine above the oil level will cool and moisture will condensate out of it. It is a very common scenario in exhausts and that's why they rust from the inside out. No matter how hot they are getting. The procedure to change oil BEFORE storage is a common practice for anybody who stores vehicles over the winter. I have 19 of them.
There's really only one way to tell for sure. Do an oil test before you store your car and another one before you start it in the spring - don't start it all winter. This test will tell you if there's any moisture in your oil and TBN difference from fall to spring will tell you if it's become acidic.
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It's not just moisture. Other contaminants from combustion of fuels and dirty air end up in the oil to form a toxic acidic mix. Dirt settles, in time, forming sludge which will clog those tiny holes on your cam oiler when you start the engine in the spring if the situation is really bad. Changing oil before winter storage is good.