Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Pawel66 on October 20, 2021, 14:22:26
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I cannot believe it... Still scared it is some kind of system error...
It is there, 72hrs delivery. I have just ordered it.
ca EUR 1300,-, but that does not matter.
Two years waiting....
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EUR 1,300 for a pipe wow. I paid less than half of that for a complete front-to-back ehaust system including a California-compliant double catalytic converter and muffler for my '90 Bronco this year.
Is this not the front pipe offered by for example SLS for EUR 229 ? Could that be coming from the same factory that Mercedes gets theirs?
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Cees! Out of curiosity, I was wondering how much the replica costs? It looks like you will get the whole set for half the price.
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The replicas either don’t fit correctly, sound poorly, or don’t have the correct crossover pipes at the end.
It sounds like Pawel will be the guinea pig for these new pipes. Its going to be interesting how they work out 🤞🤞🤞
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Yes, I will be the guinea pig for that. I do not even know if the part is re-created as it was... I will post pictures when I have it (Friday, I think).
I will then schedule installation with my mechanic in my garage - November, some Friday, I guess.
Finance-wise - this makes no sense vs. alternatives, I know, but for the reasons mrfatboy mentioned - I wanted the original.
I know it took Daimler a lot of time and effort to make this part available. There were 2 or 3 rounds of tests and rejections - we will see.
SEB, the issue is, there are no replicas on the market. There are parts that are similar to the original, but are in essence missing some critical elements.
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Enclosed is how the part looks like.
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Pawel
Thanks for being the guinea pig. Appreciate you taking one for the team.
Is the material as original or is it now stainless?
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Looks like zinced steel, but I will check, have not paid attention to it.
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Excellent find, and expensive. Do you know if more are available?
Cheers, JohnnyC
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Pawel
Thanks for being the guinea pig. Appreciate you taking one for the team.
Is the material as original or is it now stainless?
It is just steel.
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Excellent find, and expensive. Do you know if more are available?
Cheers, JohnnyC
I bought it from the dealer. It is a new production lot. You may want to check with a dealer or at Classic Center. PN A1134900920.
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Pawel! The surface looks like stainless steel. Certainly, compared to the aftermarket, you can see the differences not only in the price. So good lock!
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Thanks, will let you know!
It is magnetic material.
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Today I asked the Classic Center in Irvine about availability. Tom Hanson’s response was, “The first reproduction run of 113-490-09-20 was done incorrectly. They don't fit. Not sure when (or if) we'll see any more of them.”
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:) I heard it twice several months ago. There were, I think, 3 series of correction tests. Or only 2 perhaps, I lost track. So my impression is this is the second run after the 3rd wave of tests.
We will see, I will try to fit it this month.
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I confirmed: no way to remove or install exhaust system on Quick Jack (about 0.5m clearance from ground). Tried and failed. I am scheduled for Nov 26 to use a proper lift and try to do the replacement.
The hope was that, since I have clamps between central muffler and the front pipe, after disconnecting the central muffler, the front pipe will be short enough to come out. It did not.
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I think I remember a Joe Alexander post recommending lifting only the right side of the car to get more clearance.
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I did. Forget it.
I lifted her on Quick Jack and put her on the 4 supports so that she stood on her wheels ca 25cm above the ground (I made those supports so that the car can stand on her wheels at the height equal to max Quick Jack lift capacity). Then I lifted the passenger side good 20-30cm more. I could not get out the old pipe that was cut right after the pipe connection. Next 20-30 cm height was missing. I cannot even think of fitting tacked full length exhaust...
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Ok, hopefully it will come out easily on the hoist.
Another recommendation I recall, possibly also from Joe A, is to check that the motor mounts and suspension rubbers are good, as they affect the exhaust clearance. And the car needs to be on its wheels for final tack welding.
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Thank you - that is important to put her on her wheels.
The motor mounts are new... all the rubbers are new.
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I installed a fully welded exhaust in my car a couple of weeks back. Had the passenger side (USA car) near top of jackstands - maybe 18", moved starter out of the way and unbolted the passenger side engine arm from the motor mount and with a separate jack, lifted the engine on that side another inch, inch and a half or 2 inches. The last move of lifting the passenger side of the engine off the motor mount made the difference for me. I also used another jack under the pipes just behind the engine lifting a little on one, then the other to get an alignment. Once I got close I used a long M8 bolt and was able to connect one of the pair of holes (one in the exhaust manifold and one in the pipe) at the rear exhaust manifold. Not easy but doable, at least with my system.
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Thank you for sharing. I had my car probably at similar height and we were contemplating removal of starter and touching the engine. Then i just decided I will take her to MB for a higher lift and try to fit the exhaust more peacfully...
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I'm just doing a stock take and find I have one good used one and one new after-market LHD front downpipe in stock. The aftermarket one looks exactly the same as the original used one.
Shipping would be expensive but anyone in the UK who needs one should let me know.
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Ok, done it this morning.
The fit is perfect! No problems at all.
Action place on the picture.
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Pawel,
Does it sounds differently than before?
Less loudly, less low tones maybe?
Peter
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Nothing that would catch my attention... I drove only a couple of miles. and it was just the front pipe replacement, the rest of exhaust was new original MB Ebersprecher I installed when the car was restored.
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I thought I would close this thread with a couple of practical remarks - maybe someone will benefit from that.
As I wrote a couple of posts below - the new front exhaust from Mercedes is a perfect fit.
It runs fairly close to heat shields both on firewall and under the floor. If you chose or had to go for the solutions with clamps rather then weld - you may want to use type of clamps that are flat on the top. If you use e.g. 8mm loop rod type clamp - it will be very close to heat shield and may make noise. I found clamps (I had to go for this solution) that are steel solid band 1-2mm thick with 8mm bolt as tightener that work fine there.
Second point - in the clamp solution you need to weld in pipe pieces that will stick out of the connected length of the front pipes (I used cut pieces of pipes from SLS). Now, if you want to have the blow passage between the left and right exhaust pipe, you need to drill holes in those pipe pieces you weld in, otherwise their walls will block this passage. When you look at the pictures I attached to the previous posts, you will see what I mean.
I am not sure if, when you buy the middle piece original from Mercedes - the tips of the pipes from this middle piece go deep enough into the front piece to cover those passages and if so if they have holes in them. I would check that. My original middle piece was cut when the car was restored to make it fit to the remains of the old front piece that I know exchanged - I do not know how deep it was supposed to go into the front piece and if it had the holes for the passage.