Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: yves on June 17, 2021, 13:46:40
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I am trying to test and clean my fuel injectors and can't unscrew the first accessible nut ( 1) without bending the fuel line and unscrew the second nut (2) on the engine !
Is there a special tool for doing that ?
There is not enough room for two wrench . One to block one nut and the other to unscrew... :(
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I don't remember the size (14 mm?) but the tool looks like this.
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Whaou Allen that's a very explosive answer ....!
Thank's i'll order that"wrench"
And the size is 17 for the first nut and 19 for the other ;)
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I use the same tool as Scoot and a crows foot for bottom nut to hold in place. I might have even cut down a sacrificial wrench instead of a crows foot.
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The injection line wrenches are made by Hazet, they make them in both 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive.
3/8" drive tool number is Hazet 4550
1/2" drive tool number is Hazet 2745-1
Once you get the injection line separated from the injector, you can put a deep well socket on the injector to remove.
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I have tried with a sacrifcial wrench 19 mm at the bottom nut and a 17 mm at the upper one without succes even with a strong effort....! and i don't want to break the line. So it seems that the "scoot" tool must be the right one but i can't find it on the net....
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When you used the 19mm on the bottom did you brace/lodge against the head so it will not twist? If you don’t have that set it will never work whatever you use on the injector/top nut.
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Well I don’t know the words brace /lodge but I think you must say that the bottom wrench is very strongly blocked against a solid stuff… it’s the case ! 😬but I wait to have the right crowfoot wrench
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You can also try a penetrant on the area where the fuel line goes through the nut. That can corrode very easily and cause binding. I would recommend using a VERY light coat of antiseize at this juncture when assembling. Makes it a breeze next time you need to take it apart. Also you torque the injector (20 Ft. lbs???) and the fuel line nut at around (18ft. lbs). Confirm these values first! The point being that the nut is torqued down with a lower value than the injector. In theory this will allow the nut to break free first before the injector.
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That makes sens Wallace Thank’s
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Hello Yves,
You can find it on Amazon:
KS Tools 152.1401 - Clé pour alimentation d'injecteur - En matière Robuste et Résistante
Visiter la boutique KS TOOLS
Prix : 37,69 €
Not cheap, but at least it’s available…
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I use two of those shown by scoot with two extensions and two ratchets. I had to, however, grind the 19mm (bottom nut) so that it fits all 6 injectors locations.
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This is what I use.
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Yes, fitting this 19mm is the biggest issue... probably this is the best way.
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I have customised the 19 mm wrench and wait for the 17 mm .....
And i sprayed some WD40 .... ::)
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I have used these same wrenches on my diesel engines for many years. Hazet is the best.
Of course I purchased these wrenches many years ago, so I guess they cost more now.
these wrenches make it very simple.
Tom
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I've found that removing the valve cover gave me more room to work. Those line fittings can get really tight sometimes.
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As Benz Dr stated, Removing the valve cover makes the job far less frustrating and can be done with common tools.
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I used the tools as Fatboy with succes ...
I have tested the spray of each injector and found only 2 with a "spray" the other 4 have a simple jet .
So i put them in a fuel cleaner solution back flush position .... for a day and see the level of the cleaner.
I can put them also in a ultrasonic tank and wonder what liquid i'll pour in ?
The same cleaner should be correct
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I have successfully cleaned injectors using an ultrasonic cleaner along with Chemdip carburetor cleaner (the one gallon soaking solution). The key is to carefully open the nozzle pintle and insert a small piece of plastic such as the end of a zip-tie to keep it open. Because the injector seats are made of steel, if they are corroded, no amount of cleaning will fix them.
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I have tested the injectors after cleaning and 1 injector remains with a simple jet....i am glad with that unhoped result ;)
So i am on the ultrasonic process for the 6th and will see the result .
I have opened the tip with a needle ..... for the 6 inj .
Looking very close to the bottom of the injector where the tip is , i see a very little hole beside the tip but wonder what it is used for...?
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Well No progress with the ultrasonic bath for 2 hours.... The defective injector remain defective...
So i send all the injectors to a injector specialist even if 5 of them make a nice " tchip tchip" when i put them under pressure at 220 PSI without any dripping before .
At least i think i should have only one injector to replace ::)
Btw i was thinking about refitting them on the engine after refurbishing : what is the torque for the injector and for the pipe nut ?
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Lots of posts on this topic (injectors cleaning) with a very low success rate, usually ending: I spent two days on it and then bought a set of new ones...
My sucsess rate was finally ca30% and I bought new ones. :)
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Well No progress with the ultrasonic bath for 2 hours.... The defective injector remain defective...
So i send all the injectors to a injector specialist even if 5 of them make a nice " tchip tchip" when i put them under pressure at 220 PSI without any dripping before .
At least i think i should have only one injector to replace ::)
Btw i was thinking about refitting them on the engine after refurbishing : what is the torque for the injector and for the pipe nut ?
Torque for the injectors is 35Nm (manual). I don't think there are torque settings for the pipe nuts in the manual.
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Hi,
here are the torques for a 280SL.
...WRe
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Hi,
here are the torques for a 280SL.
...WRe
Uhh, I guess I didn't look long enough. I this the "flipp book" BBB? I was also looking for the torque values for the copper nuts, mounting intake and exhaust manifold?
(Sorry for high-jacking the post.)
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The figures I had posted previously were a bit lighter than what is in the manual. But the point being is that the torque for the fuel line nut must be lower than the injector. It shows to be 25Nm (18ft lb). That should give you enough of a torque differential so that the fuel line nut loosens before the injector itself.
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Hi Dirk,
I couldn't find any torques values for these copper nuts in some workshop manuals but found a recommendation because of size and type of these nuts saying 25Nm should be alright.
...WRe
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Hi Dirk,
I couldn't find any torques values for these copper nuts in some workshop manuals but found a recommendation because of size and type of these nuts saying 25Nm should be alright.
...WRe
WRe,
Perfect, thanks
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I am not entitled to add my 2 cents here due to limited experience, but I did this job several times and it is to me like snagging a spark plug: you feel when the seal resistance starts, then you compress it a bit...
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PaweL,
I used to do the same until I screwed up an alum BMW motorcycle cyl head. After that, I try to use torque settings or wrenches as much as possible.
As they say in Germany: "Nach fest kommt ab". :)
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Hi,
I used to do it as most of us did it over the years that is to say without a torque wrench and a lot of feeling.
First time I used a torque wrench I allways got frightend because of this loud click where you never knew if it was the screw or the wrench.
The first cylinder head bolt I tear off was with a torque wrench.
...WRe
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PaweL,
I used to do the same until I screwed up an alum BMW motorcycle cyl head. After that, I try to use torque settings or wrenches as much as possible.
As they say in Germany: "Nach fest kommt ab". :)
Very true :)! All that is ahead of me!
WRe experience confirms reaching targets with minimum effort makes sense :).
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Hello,
If your injectors are as corroded as they seem to be, its also likely that there is some of the same scale deposits down inside at the pintle end as well. I would recommend bench checking them all as I did with this test rig I bought and adapted.
It allowed me to visually check the spray pattern and cracking pressure on each one of them.
Larry in CA
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After cleaning ( diagnostic one injector dripping at a low pressure) by myself with the mercedessource kit and checking by a specialist , i have now 6 beautiful injector on the bench....
I have a question before refitting them on the engine:
do i need some grease on the threads
injector // head
injector // fuel pipe
I think copper grease would be correct but i need confirmation ....! ;)
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Hello Yves,
From one Frenchman to another, where did you gave the injectors tested / cleaned ?
Thank you
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SLS Eurotrading (03 88 82 70 52 ) they charged 60 eur for 1 inj . they are quite reactive : 10 days mailing included !
I am refitting them this afternoon .... and am raring to drive and test with the new gear levers bushes fitted in the same time ;)
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The best is a Nickle based anti-seize. Use a tiny amount on injector threads and then on fuel line fitting.