Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: CJHenderson on May 01, 2021, 01:24:36
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The motor went in with the expected problems associated with an engine install. But I'm not sure if it is correct. The side arms are sitting flush on the motor mounts including the one on the transmission. I've snapped three photos, two from the side showing the top of the fender with about 3 to 4 inches of the valve cover and another full on the front. One question that I have is when I started this project the mounts did not have the bellows on it but it does now after I noticed that SLS.com showed them to have it. Is this normal?
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CJ,
What bellows? Not sure I understand.
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I'm not sure about bellows either but I noticed that you have the cups at the top of your shock absorbers on upside down. The cup should be up, not down.
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if you are concerned about the valve cover sticking out - there was a thread recently, where Members provided quite a lot of measurement values to check if it is ok or not ok.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=32939.25
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Here is the link to SLS.com. It shows the bellows. I didn't have them when I tore the car down and don't know why you would need them but I figured they wouldn't be there without a reason.
https://www.sls-hh-shop.de/main/en/mercedes-230-280sl-w113-/22-enginemounts
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...One question that I have is when I started this project the mounts did not have the bellows on it but it does now after I noticed that SLS.com showed them to have it..
Sorry CJ, but I don't understand either. The only bellows I'm aware of are on the rear engine mount; per the SLS site, item #21 is the (rubber) bellows that covers/protects the rear mount, and item #28 is the bellows plate for the rear mount.
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Look at item 15. It's possible I'm looking at wrong.
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ok, the engine mount plate and rebound buffer.
.. I didn't have them when I tore the car down and don't know why you would need them but I figured they wouldn't be there without a reason
I've seen posts about these particular plates being left out by shops when the engine mounts were replaced. The plates/buffers are intended to protect the mounts from engine torque- JA17's explanation: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=29139.msg210707#msg210707
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just fyi,,I replaced the engine mounts and rubber buffers on my 230sl a couple years ago. obviously the mount plates and buffers on an early 230 differ from a 280 https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=28744.msg207815#msg207815
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CJ,
I believe you are talking about the rubber donuts (bellow) that mount underneath the motor mounts? These should not effect the height of the motor once installed.
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see here
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Yes those are the ones.
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As I said, I don't think the rubber stops in the motor mounts effect your engine height. Have you checked your overall driveline alignment? As you probably know, SLS has a nice drawing of the set up on their side.
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No because I'm not going to install the driveshaft until the car gets back from the paint shop for its final paint. Now that you made that suggestion. It made me think that there should be a spacer between the rear mount and breast plate holding the mount.
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Thanks for the keen observation, have corrected the front ones and will get the rear ones shortly.
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Just some quick notes:
- you need to have the specific SL engine "arms" left and right
- the early version of the rubber donuts left and right had to have a certain base tension created by the screws (they differ from the later models)
- the height / tilt of the engine is influenced mainly by the third engine mount in the rear - please check BBB for correct installation - the number of washers determine the overall height and there is a specific way of measuring it at the only main bolt of the rear mount
- there are two versions of the rear mount
Good luck
Oliver
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I had the same thoughts when I put the engine back in my car but it ended up clearing the hood. I did close it very gingerly the first time. I would suggest removing the hood latch from the body so you don't have to fight the spring pressure and simply drop the hood down gently.
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I installed the 5mm shim on the rear mount, but I'm not too sure that is enough. I agree with Shvegel about fitting the hood before the hinge being installed to check for clearance.