Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: teahead on December 17, 2020, 15:14:46
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Rubber-Mount-Rear-Axle-Control-Upper-Joint-W113-1103500675-/253855968673?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Less than half price of MB
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I bought the same. The seller’s name is Anthony. He’s a member here and was a sponsor at PagodaFest.
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100% positive 500 feedbacks from this seller is a good sign. But the $45 international shipping spoils it (from Belgium). Also, he states 'only compatible with Pagoda' but that can't be right with a part number of 110 350 06 75. Whether they are any good I guess only time will tell. It seems all the stressed rubber-to-steel mounts eventually separate but I guess the quality ones only do so after the lifespan of the rubber.
I see he is also selling a repro hood strap with brackets which looks ok for $24, but again $45 shipping.
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YA, even at $145 USD, still $100 cheaper than MB.
I figured w/how many miles/year the pagoda will be driven, the cheaper one will last at least 30 years.
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YA, even at $145 USD, still $100 cheaper than MB.
I figured w/how many miles/year the pagoda will be driven, the cheaper one will last at least 30 years.
Rubber components' life are not dependant on mileage. Calendar life is also important and I have had aftermarket rubber parts fail on a car where the restoration wasn't even finished before that component had failed.
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It is made by URO which doesn't have a great reputation but given what it is I can't see how they could mess it up too badly. One of the very few aftermarket parts on my car.
Available lots of places in the US:
https://www.authenticclassics.com/mercedes-280SL-Rear-Axle-Support-Rubber-Bushing-p/auth-002413.htm
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this thread made me think of a conversation i had with Gus in Houston (Beverly Hill Motors) recently about trailing arm mounts
he told me when it comes to rubber related parts stick to the OEM manufacturers such as lemfoerder
he said that some of the non name brand suppliers use recycled rubber which does not hold up as well as virgin rubber.
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I tend to agree with Merrill. I bought my motor mounts from MB even though the URO ones were half the cost over rubber quality concerns.
However, on the rear mount I took the chance with Anthony’s part (the OP’s ebay post). I did ask him specifically about the rubber quality. He told me that the part came out of India and had no issues as of yet. He said he wouldn’t be surprised if that’s were MB sourced theirs also 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
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I did ask him specifically about the rubber quality. He told me that the part came out of India and had no issues as of yet. He said he wouldn’t be surprised if that’s were MB sourced theirs also 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Which does not mean that the parts produced in the same factory with an MB star and generic are of the same quality.
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Which does not mean that the parts produced in the same factory with an MB star and generic are of the same quality.
Or that generic ones are of lower quality!
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True, but even in my limited activity I spotted some generic products by renown companies that presented inferior quality. I do not think I recall any quality problems with MB parts.
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Perhaps you forgot about this warning?
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=31773.msg230478#msg230478
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Yes, I forgot. But I remember many warnings about the generic parts.
Well, in my case - rubber from MB as long as affordable. The rest: first choice is MB and, as well, the price comes in. When I needed 12 valve tappets, I just bought Febi.
I think there are many parts without a star on them with great quality. Many of them are generally recognized for that.
In this particular case, rubber, I would go for MB, but I have not checked the prices.
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When I attended Pagodafest in Virginia in 2017 I remember Gernold saying he has seen a drop in rubber parts quality even from MB.
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follow-up question:
does the car have to be jacked up w/the frame on stands to change this out?
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I have replaced this trunk mount on both the 250 and the 280. Don’t know if I followed the correct procedure but here is what I did and it worked just fine.
Park car on level floor
I did not jack car up
Loosened all bolts on mount in trunk - only cracked loose, did not remove.
Put floor jack under differential and lift to just take differential load off mount.
Loosen and remove all mount bolts.
Remove mount and place new mount. — mount appears square but is not square - you must place in correct rectangular orientation for bolts to fit. This is important as it will almost fit incorrectly but not quite.
I don’t recall the torque values but torqued all bolts
Lowered jack off differential- done.
Took for a drive and clearly noticed a better ride.
Note: others have done it differently so search and you will find other methods— here is one that provides details.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=806.msg3842#msg3842
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I did exactly what Oz did. As he states, take special note of the orientation of the old mount so you can place new one in correctly 👍