Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => W11x chassis cars => Topic started by: gcw206 on May 03, 2020, 13:18:11
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I have a 1969 280SE, W111 that was repainted by the previous owner. The door trim at the top of the driver door was removed for painting, and after the trim was replaced some of the fasteners did not grip correctly. As a result, the trim is loose, and is driving me crazy. In the part manual, it appears that the fasteners are a 2 piece, friction fit system, but I cannot get the trim to come free. What is the proper procedure for removal/replacement of this piece? This chrome strip is costly, and I don't want to ruin it just to keep it from rattling. Great site; I have benefited greatly by the content, Galen
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You are correct in that it is a two piece plastic fastener. The male portion is on the trim and the female socket is pressed into a hole in the door. Mine actually rattles as well and one day I will fix it. I have not taken this piece off, but have done the piece below the windshield. It is the same deal. I used a wide plastic trim tool and are available. Something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-pc-64126.html?cid=paid_google|||64126&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp_Sw1ZmY6QIVTNbACh27RAoLEAQYAyABEgKxxPD_BwE
You go very slow and evenly and do not apply too much force at any one spot. I know, removing that is a scary thing!
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Don't forget about the little 7mm hex head nut at the forward edge. It first must be removed. Afterward, you pry the piece up from the front ending at the rear edge. After all of the plastic clips are released you'll slide the whole chrome trim piece to the rear, as the rear edge has two metal tabs on the rear underside that slide on to a set screw screwed into the door itself. The door must be open to make this last maneuver.
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That is good know about clip in the rear. I suppose I would figured out, but always better to know in advance. Seems like there is always some little trick to removing every piece on these cars. I have become accustomed to look out for those.
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Excellent info as always! I fear the day when I have to do this "for real." I've had some of mine off (the wrap at the bottom of the windshield) and it was nerve racking.
A nice product to stop little rattles in stuff like this, is the black "strip caulk" made by 3M and probably others. I think some people call it "dum-dum." Places like NAPA usually have it.
Thinking out loud here.....I wonder if spraying something under the trim, like PB Blaster, or Kroil, or TriFlow, would help those plastic trim "pins" pop out of the plastic sockets that are in the body panels?
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Excellent info as always! I fear the day when I have to do this "for real." I've had some of mine off (the wrap at the bottom of the windshield) and it was nerve racking.
A nice product to stop little rattles in stuff like this, is the black "strip caulk" made by 3M and probably others. I think some people call it "dum-dum." Places like NAPA usually have it.
Thinking out loud here.....I wonder if spraying something under the trim, like PB Blaster, or Kroil, or TriFlow, would help those plastic trim "pins" pop out of the plastic sockets that are in the body panels?
Yes and no......if the plastic is 50+ years old nothing will soften it. The male parts will usually just break off. You then use that as an excuse to buy new ones to install while it's off, which will eliminate rattles. What I see happen most often is that when the car is painted the painters lay so much paint on the car that the hole for the female pieces shrinks in size, which makes the female pieces impossible to insert. People then clean the holes of the excess paint, but leave bare metal exposed. After which rust takes a hold.
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Dear Aaron
That happened to me as well on my first w111-220SE.
You have the wrong female clips installed on your metal body. Ask NIEMOLLER in Germany for the proper ones. W111 uses a size little bit larger than any other Mercedes. You need about 6 fastener per door. They will instruct you on how many are necessary exactly. This female fasteners are expensive but once you have them it will not come loose any more.
Regards
L.p
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Not a great picture but this is the underside of the trim. Bolt at the front end and it slides into a screw fixed to the door at the other (rear) end. There are 4 of these clips ... the red bit needs to be popped back into the door if you don't break them getting them off. If you need a better picture I'll get one.
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The red female clips are coming out from body since they have not the proper external diameter. The ones I bought from Niemoeller are BEIGE in Colour and no matter how hard I pull off the chrome trim they stay in place on car body.
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my clips are old and hard and should be replaced ...
Here are some better photos. The white clips have been removed but shows how it attaches at each end.
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Thanks for posting the pics!!! I need to do this soon and may just do it now to lock this in my memory. So the front bolt threads into a block on the front part of the trim?
I would imagine that without Aaron warning about the rear catch, most get bent up in the removal process.
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Yes... The front threaded part can slide out of the chrome but only after you have removed it
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Here are the pictures of the front screw insert.
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That is a rusty little bugger. Mine has quite a bit also and have already hit it with penetrant.
I scored a major victory last night in removing the interior door panel edge trim on the lower and front edges. Those little 2.9mm screws are always rusty. I sprayed with penetrant the night before and all but one came loose. Of course, what else would you expect! Luckily I was able to rotate the trim to loosen the screw just enough! All came out without one breaking. I must be living right.......
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Hello
I saw this post and photos and wondered whether you attempted to replace the horizontal felt weatherstrip that sits on either side of the window at the top of the door line. My outer ones appear to be screwed into the door on mine (1969 280SE w111 2 door). My car received a repaint prior to my ownership and I wonder if everything was put back on correctly. Any photos would be greatly appreciated, so that I can replace mine the right way. Thanks, Duncan
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See your other post. Yes, they are screwed on. You can either match the same screw holes on the new fuzzy strips or just drill new ones as the factory did. Also pay attention to my note and compare the thickness of your old strips with the new ones.
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Got it