Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: mrfatboy on March 26, 2020, 01:26:30
-
Post your pagoda fixes, maintenance, or general work your are trying or hoping to get done during coronavirus pandemic.
I was lucky to have some parts ready to go. So far for me:
1) Replaced the belts
2) In process of replacing guide rod bushings. Ordered parts right before lock down. 😖
3) In process of changing transmission fluid. I got the fluid fill plug out but need to buy ATF. Coronavirus or ATF?🤔🤣😷
Anybody else stuck at home and getting any pagoda projects done?
-
I'm always at home and live far enough away from everyone that it's pretty good here. We have 4 cars to finish up. All of them run but need different things to finish.
I want to do some rust repair on my own car but that might be later in the season.
-
I just remembered I changed out the clutch fluid also. Boredom is taking its toll on my mind🤣🤣🤣
-
Cleaned master reservoir used a turkey baster to extract old fluid, then bled the 4 corners. Used a Motive pressure bleeder.
Assessing growing leaks. The biggie? The power steering supply hose from reservoir to pump was touching battery tray. Wore through. While the system is dry, might as well change seals in pump, and box. Will also change large oil pan gasket. Took battery tray out, will clean and paint, because of an old leaky battery.
Ordered Verdestein Sprint Classic tires. Really wanted a white wall, but decided the classic tire look was more important (to me) than the whitewall. The white walls I found, (toyo was one), cost half as much, but they looked modern.
-
Finally got my softtop frame back from the welder who replaced my broken spring lever. After tweaking, re-tweaking with body English, shoving, and clamping, the frame is now pretty straight. Fortunately, I ordered and received all the parts about a month ago, and now with warmer spring weather (and the lockdown) I'm ready to tackle this beast - thanks in no small part to your outstanding guidance!
-
I am reassembling the engine bay, in preparation for the rebuilt engine.
Concurrently, I am reapplying trim and new rubber to the body after replacing rusted panels. The task still threatens to overwhelm me as I have no recent experience. But I accomplish one thing or another each day.
More directly related to quarantine, I've been learning more about how to use the wealth of knowledge that exists within this site, before being slapped on the wrist for not finding the information on my own ;). Without this forum and manual, I'd never even contemplated most of what I've accomplished. Thanks to everybody. Be well.
-
Received parts that were chromed, assembling the tail light surrounds and taping the hubcaps for painting.
-
Doing some undercarriage cleaning. was able to get some Limited Slip Diff Oil ( 001-989-33-03-12 ) doing a refresh for some summer driving.
-
I made continued progress on fixing oil leaks on the front of the engine, and the transmission. I already replaced the transmission modulator, and now replaced the filter and pan gasket.
On the engine, I pulled the PS pump and bracket, front pulleys, and PS reservoir bracket. While all the parts were out I bead blasted and painted them, and got the reservoir all back together. Also resealed the PS pump.
Then I replaced the front crank seal and buggered it up, so have another one or order. But that stalled reinstalling the pulleys, and PS pump.
Then I got tired of looking at the beat up old horns so took one apart, bead blasted, painted, reassembled, and tuned it. It's no ticket to Pebble Beach, but not bad for something on the underside of the car.
I also identified all the oil pan bolts and front block bolts that penetrate into the timing case or other oil-filled areas. A number of these were pretty clearly leaking, so I sealed them all. Hopefully now I'll have a relatively dry underside.
-
In my case fixing the oil leaks is not a process, as process is defined as having beginning and an end...
-
Big excitement here today.
First, put on gloves & mask and risked my health going to Post Office to mail a pagoda part to a forum member🤣🤣🤣😷 it was for a good cause😀👍
Came home to an frantic call from my neighbor that a raccoon was in her house. My wife and I trapped it and found a new home for it.
Just another day and at least something to do🤣
-
Well, if you are going in this direction, I spent a couple hours this morning helping to extricate a tractor from the vines on my property. It rained (a lot) in November, and the bottom of our land is still soaked and very soft.
Not quite as exciting as catching a raccoon, but just as unexpected (at least when I got up this morning).
Tomorrow I’ll try to improve the positioning of the glove box on my Pagoda (it is far from flush with the rest of the dashboard).
-
I’m making a muffler soufflé! Actually taking the time at home to outgas my stainless steel exhaust before I install and ceramic coat.
-
Without distractions, I've managed to finish my engine. Injection pump installed yesterday and valves adjusted. Will drop in the car on Monday. As I've installed a 250 engine in my 230, there was some creativity needed to get the fuel and IP oil lines figured out.
-
As I had car on the lift before the virus affected our lives, during the very quarantine:
- overall check up of the underneath and fixing the small chips, painting, waxing
- cosmetics underneath - cleaning
- finishing the drains check up - do I have them, are they not clogged
- waxing cavities
- greasing (the whole scheme)
- oil change
- PS fluid change
- transmission fluid change (pan was leaking, had to remove it to seal it anyway)
- wheel housing cleaning/fixing chips - here I found out I lost one of the caliper bolts, resulting in small leak, fixed that
- hub caps re-painting (now in process)
Drove the car yesterday - it is still running after all this care of mine...
-
I was able to complete two more things today.
1) Changed transmission oil
2) Replaced guide rod bushings & refreshed
I might install a Hirschman auto antenna next.
Of course, I can spend the rest of the year trying to adjust the glove box🤣🤣🤣
Stay safe😷
-
Done! Runs surprisingly well, but the A/F ratio continues to rapidly change as the engine is breaking in. Purrs smoothly once it is correctly adjusted.
As a humorous side note, I installed the rubber hood cushions too high and the hood would not open even with considerable encouragement. I had to uninstall the grills and remove the hood hinge bolts from underneath to open the hood. Lesson learned, but it gave me the excuse to better align the hood hinges and even out the gaps.
-
.../...I had to uninstall the grills and remove the hood hinge bolts from underneath to open the hood.../...
Just two tips.
1.When removing hood (bonnet), only unscrew the fastening bracket (with hinge pin) on the right side. Do not touch the bolts/brackets that attach to the aluminium hood! Use heavy tape and cardboard to protect edges (and you need a helper!)
2. All areas of the SL visible through the grille should be brush painted matt black
-
Mmmh! I always removed the bolts in the hood. what's the issue? Does the hood come off if you follow your recommendation? What happens with the left side?
-
.../...the bolts in the hood. what's the issue?
The metal is soft and easily deformed. See for instance:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=24071.msg179445#msg179445 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=24071.msg179445#msg179445)
.../...Does the hood come off if you follow your recommendation? What happens with the left side?
After right bracket removal, you slide the hood (which is semi-open, perhaps 45 degrees) sideways 2-3 cm, to release the left side.
Both brackets remain firmly attached with their respective bolts, there on the left side.
An important aspect of this method is, that there is minimum adjustment needed when you re-mount your hood (bonnet)
-
Another job off the list👍 Everything lubed up according to the below chart.
Now what? 🤔😷
-
1.When removing hood (bonnet), only unscrew the fastening bracket (with hinge pin) on the right side. Do not touch the bolts/brackets that attach to the aluminium hood! Use heavy tape and cardboard to protect edges (and you need a helper!)
Hans,
It's before 10:00 AM (for me) and I learned something new already.
I have never read this before. GREAT IDEA !!
Huge help for the next time I take off my hood (which I am hoping is never ;D).
Thanks
-
Started the process to install power steering on my 1965 230 SL. Anyone who has history or information on this procedure, please pass it along.
Derm Cain
709.730.2645
Happy Easter all
Stay Safe and Self Isolate
-
Since I'm a absolute zero , mechanically speaking, ...all I can do ...and actually did was give it a very nice external clean 😄😄
-
I’ve been using mine as my daily go to the office. Drive is a little too short but still enjoyable with minimal traffic, plenty of parking space and no chance of door dents seeing lm the only one in the office 😁
Why am l not working from home? I have 3 kids under 8y.o....but mostly fear the wife will use me as a spare .......parent :-X
-
Great picture Rob. Stay safe.
John
-
Thanks John.....and to you and all.
-
Cleaned out my trunk (aka spare parts dead storage repository) and found that I had the original jack, ratchet handle and wheel chock hidden away under the spare! :D
-
Cleaned out my trunk (aka spare parts dead storage repository) and found that I had the original jack, ratchet handle and wheel chock hidden away under the spare! :D
Right where they are supposed to be🤣🤣🤣👍
-
During this lock-down time, having spent more time at home, I found out that my son turned 19 and my daughter is studying at the university.
-
Where did you source these?
2) Replaced guide rod bushings
-
Where did you source these?
Local MB dealer. ~$6 each.
-
Here are the before and after pics of the guide rod.
-
Beautiful day here in the Chicago area yesterday.
My wife and I went for a couple of hour ride. Car performed fantastic (Gernold (SL Tech) did some fantastic work on my car that finished right before winter. So, I don't have too many miles on it since his work was completed.)
Then I parked it in the sun and cleaned and treated all of the leather.
Closed the windows up and let it bake for a couple of hours and then wiped it down (the leather).
So much fun !!!
Stay safe. Stay healthy.
-
There is a well known parts source that sells these, for $12 each, but say you need 2 per side, so $48 total (or thats how I read it). Authentic classic has a whole new rod for $5x, so was going to go that direction, but I like keeping original parts on the car. Will reach out to my local MB dealer. Thanks
Local MB dealer. ~$6 each.
-
Changed the instrument lights (2 for tach and 2 for Speedometer) to LEDs from Superbrightleds.com. Dash work is not easy for someone my age. Need to replace the seals around each of the 3 instruments next time.
Sure made a difference!!
-
After 13 and a half years I made it a Mercedes again. Now people that walk up my driveway won’t say, “Is that a Sunbeam? My friend had one of those.” Or, Is that an MG?
-
As long as they don't call it a Corona 280sl🤣🤣🤣
-
I parked it in the showroom in-lieu of driving the e-type.
-
I just replaced the cloth covered braided fuel line from the gas tank to the fuel pump. It was moist and started dripping a little
-
After 13 and a half years I made it a Mercedes again. Now people that walk up my driveway won’t say, “Is that a Sunbeam? My friend had one of those.” Or, Is that an MG?
Is that color DB 350? Man, that looks nice!
-
assembled it after paint, maybe 60 hours?
-
I replaced the roller of the door which was very tired…!
-
Some more pics
I have to be very carefull with the door panel and the plastic parts of the operating levers or handle
-
The 250 came out of storage.
-
Got them, they cost me $7 each (best value I have found on this car yet). Done, installed yesterday.
Local MB dealer. ~$6 each.
-
Dan,
DB350 H single stage.
-
I was not planning on doing it but some how I got started on stripping and removing all the rubberized undercoating that the PO sprayed in the trunk. 😖
Time is on my side 😷
Slow but sure and it's looking good. Miniimal surface rust found underneath in a couple of spots. Not a big deal.
I have used:
Power scraper
Hand scraper
Chemical stripper
Wire brushes
Portable sand blaster
Interesting to note that I had an old gallon of paint stripper with the original formula (environmental hazzard) that I just ran out of. Worked great. Cant get it anymore at least in CA. I had to try a citrus Paint stripper from home depot. Its working but takes 24 hours instead of 15 minutes🤣
-
Stuff that works well, often is not good for humans, or the environment. Cresote, and asbestos come to mind.
I have finished the sub frame mounts, guide rod, upper rear dif mount, steering box seals (that are accessible with box in the car), new tires (on freshened wheels), and alignment.
Found the shifter support rod bushings broke down (manual), so thats a new required project that needs to be done.
A coolant hose kit arrived. My hoses are un bent generic heater hose, a few pieces are the wrong size, simply cranked down by the hose clamp, and leaking. I also broke down, and got the Norma clamps. Crazy $, but I will appreciate it, every time I open the hood.
-
Remember to change out the slotted screws in the Norma clamps to Phillips head for correctness. I used Stainless Steel.
I "think" only very early 230's only had slotted. It's a question I have been meaning to ask here on the forum.
-
Clamps have been covered several times and I believe there is a section in the technical manual about them.
-
Where did you buy your Norma clamps??
Tony
-
Where did you buy your Norma clamps?
Perhaps not so convenient for you in the US;
but for you in Europe this is a vendor that supplies period type hose clamps for our Pagoda cars:
https://www.esys.co/shop/Spannbackenschellen-Schlauchbriden-Schlauchschellen-fuer-Oldtimer-DIN3017-2-Stahl-verzinkt-Breite-7-12-mm-Durchmesser-7-90-mm (https://www.esys.co/shop/Spannbackenschellen-Schlauchbriden-Schlauchschellen-fuer-Oldtimer-DIN3017-2-Stahl-verzinkt-Breite-7-12-mm-Durchmesser-7-90-mm)
-
Authentic Classics sells them here in the US.
-
Also Belmetric in the US. Good people to deal with.
-
I have done the printing of the repro data cards for my car. They look great, thanks to alpinaltd (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?action=profile;u=14180) for his work.
-
I soldered a small radiator leak that developed some time ago. Took the radiator out from the bottom, having lifted the car on Quick Jack. I always had to go through hell setting the hood back after removal, no matter how carefully I marked the positions of the hinges... so removed radiator the "down" way.
On filling the coolant, I raised just front of the car with engine running - huge bubble of air came out. Radiator is tight.
I do not know what else to do on the car. I did everything. ;)
-
You’re welcome to come play with my car.
-
.../...I always had to go through hell setting the hood back after removal, no matter how carefully I marked the positions of the hinges.../...
There is a simpler way for you... Read here:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=30649.msg222830#msg222830 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=30649.msg222830#msg222830)
-
I see. You bypass all adjustments this way. Clever...
I will do it this way next time, thank you for good advise, as usual from you.
-
Garry, what did you print the data cards on? Did you use the background colors provided by alpinaltd or did you remove the background color and print the cards on colored paper stock?
-
I used a laser colour printer and heavier card type paper and double sided the print such that the layout provided by Darren printed three cards per page, two on the pink colour, and I then cut them out to the edge of the colour.
-
I removed the background color and printed the datacards on the correct cardstock color at FedEx. I think it was 80# or 100#. It was there heaviest.
Some years have rounded corners.
-
I will have to put them somewhere or through a process to get them to age 50 years................😁
-
Just bury them in the Outback for a week or so. It will give them a nice betina 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
-
My Owners Manual and Service Manual that has been kept up to date on services for 55 years look a bit worn in comparison. I think I need to just get slightly dirty and greasy hands and handle them for a couple of hours, that will match it up to the Service Manual.... ;D
-
Took time to restore my dash wood. I removed the radio speaker grill and hardtop wood but left the wood inside the windshield. I thought I could do the restoration with it still in the car easier than taking the dash apart to get to the underside screws/nuts.
Anyway........ sanded with sand paper (I agree with the extreme caution in doing this); one coat of MinWax pre-stain conditioner; followed by 2 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane Satin Clear coat. i did not want to add stain because i wanted a much lighter color than the original wood. The original "black" paint/varnish sanded away very nicely.
My picture of the final installation appears a little lighter than it really is. The radio grill picture is more accurate.
Glad the wood has some new preservative on it.
-
Very nice!
-
Polished and waxed it today............from 6 feet away.
-
Removed the air intake shield, checked the flap, removed the filter, cleaned it, cleaned the insides, not too dirty. replaced a few screws that were starting to rust, reassemble all components.
-
Made a centre console.
-
Went to FedEx Office today to print Alpinaltd's Kangol repro instructions. 👍 I printed on two different colored paper. Cut to correct dimensions.
I also was able to replace 2 incorrect hose clamps with the Norma clamps.
-
Today, I saw my car, and got it out of the garage, for the first time since the first week of March
-
Broke the 230SL out of quarantine yesterday morning for a quick run to the grocery store and Lowes. Parked it way out in never never land. When I finally returned to the car with my light bulbs and four sacks of provisions there was an impromptu car show going on in that corner of the parking lot! I'm so sad that I didn't have so much as a cel phone with me - here's what were lined up with the Pagoda:
289 Cobra
mid-70's 124 Spyder
2CV Citröen
58/59 T-Bird
M-B W116 Sedan
I hung around to see if I could meet any of the drivers, but only got to meet the kid who owned the Fiat and his girlfriend before the ice cream started to melt.
-
I replaced a fuel hose from the tank to the pump that was leaking, and a heater hose from the block that was also leaking.
-
Put new vinyl and star on my steering pad. For the purist: yes I have retained the original star.
-
Ready to go back on
-
I made a centre console from birch plywood and reclaimed black leather. The medallion is £50.00 from E-Bay. It houses security equipment, speakers and a useful cubby for phones and wires lined in polished aluminum at the top.
-
Just chugging along.
-
Still chugging.
-
Nothing to do to it, just drove to get a fill up of non ethanol fuel.
-
Noticed in January that the radiator in the 230SL had a small leak in the bottom corner after a long drive but not enough to drip in the garage.
Since many repair shops were looking for work during the lock-down I decided to take it out and have it checked. They did a flow test and informed me that it was already quite restricted and suggested to recore it. To my surprise there was only a $60 difference between a standard and a 3-row (high efficiency) copper core and while I never had any overheating problems in the past I opted for the 3-row. Took only 4 days and I could pick it up again and it is now back in the car. 👍
-
Nice Alfred !
During the next winter I will have my heater core rebuilt. I will pull it myself also (no need to warn me, I've done it before. 8)
Over the weekend I cleaned up my car and put the soft top down for the first time since Gernold from SL-TECH put on a new one.
I was hesitant since it looked so perfect.
Of course I also took it for a nice ride.
I hope all are staying safe.
Mark
-
Compliments, Mark. Looks really smart!
-
Love the color Mark. Specially with the dark blue top.
-
Yes, a beautiful pagoda. It is always a dream to drive, or just to look at. Congratulations
Peter
-
It has been painted!
But to be honest, it has been with the painter since July 21, 2019. ;D
-
I inserted the missing sleeve on the roof frame. Now the rear part snaps into place when you put it down.
Peter
-
My mechanic did plenty of work: reseal of the 5 speed zf gearbox, new fuel lines and filter, and new water pump and thermostat .
During this winter I would like to overhaul the injection pump and solve finally this rich running and change all shock absorbers with new bilstein
-
Took my Pagoda out today for the first time in three months and tomorrow the Australian State of Victoria goes into lockdown so no more driving for pleasure and the Pagoda gets stored away until some future time when we are allowed out again
Tough times here in Australia as the Corona Virus has had a resurgence.
Thankfully the population are mainly compliant on what is best for the majority and we hope to get it to a level of eradication again. Last time it was the international travellers returning to Australia that started it all up again.
Here is a good article on what is happening here from tonight.
https://www.msn.com/en-ca/news/world/melbourne-is-a-case-study-in-navigating-a-second-wave-of-coronavirus/ar-BB17xYZo?ocid=spartan-ntp-feeds (https://www.msn.com/en-ca/news/world/melbourne-is-a-case-study-in-navigating-a-second-wave-of-coronavirus/ar-BB17xYZo?ocid=spartan-ntp-feeds)
Garry
-
I drove mine to the Yacht Club and cleaned the bird sh*t off the boat :)
-
During this quarantine I developed the F.I.P.i project. An interactive FIP simulator.
Give it a try . It's fun to play with :)
F.I.P.i can be found here:
https://www.sl113.org/fip/index.html
F.I.P.i is located in the technical manual here:
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/Injection
F.I.P.i. announcement thread here:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=31559.0
-
I washed and waxed my Pagoda last weekend.
-
Carpet. Fun, fun, fun.
-
Just replaced the carpet in my 250SL - out with the Brown Velour a PO put in, and in with Palomino Square Weave with bamboo edging.
PO also changed part of the original Black MB Tex to Bamboo. I prefer the Bamboo so eventually l will replace the remaining Black vinyl to Bamboo.
Fixed up a few other things along the way.
Thanks to my good mate, Billy Moussa ( who does this for a living) who provided invaluable tips, guidance and tools.
Rob
-
Looks good Rob!
-
More fun.
-
Thanks,
I actually carpeted over the brackets for the central tray - l can’t remember what was there originally?
Without the carpet l also fear the ashtray will not push down far enough. Will be interested in your thoughts.
I’m not happy with the way the tray sits - quote wobbly ( which they mostly are). I’m thinking of putting some padding underneath ( either side) to prop it up and stabilise it. The holes for the screws keep increasing in size also - think l might go for a larger screw.
Rob
-
While acknowledging that the vestiges of the original Black Tex interior on the dash and soft top lid do not match the bamboo seats, door cards and new lighter square-weave carpeting as they should for originality's sake, I actually find the contrast of the black Tex dash and soft top accents along with the black ribbed threshold trim very appealing on a predominantly gold tone Pagoda. If the car had the black hardtop and hubcaps that I have seen on at least one Tunis Beige Pagoda the effect would be just about perfect - not original, but very appealing none the less.
-
Hi Mike,
It's certainly not offensive.
You don't know how many times I toy with the idea of going 2-tone, Black over Gold. I think it would look stunning especially given it is a 250(or 230) so we get the contrast within the rims-hubcaps as well. (I'm a sucker for 2-tone).
Although I am a purist at heart - You have rekindled my thoughts!
....or Tobacco?
Pity there isn’t a dark metallic Brown in the range.
-
Cibie Iode 40 auxiliary lights
-
I spent 10 minutes polishing the cabin air intake chrome ! :D
-
Looks to be very nice quality original firewall padding too! - Tim?
My 906G also has good quality original firewall padding - maybe 10% below yours :)
-
Looks to be very nice quality original firewall padding too! - Tim?
My 906G also has good quality original firewall padding - maybe 10% below yours :)
Thanks Rob,
Take care,
Mark
-
A fellow forum member gave me a set of halogen headlight bulbs👍 I just installed them. Polished the lenses and cleaned out 50+ years of dirt.
-
Nice! Did you also adjust the beam correctly or aim them straight at the oncoming traffic? 😳 ;)
There is a link to Daniel Stern's web site showing how this should be done:
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Lights
-
Stripping, sanding and repainting under way.
-
Gave her a wash and went for a leisurely drive - might be one of the last summer days for this year.
-
We are now in lockdown once again. I got a couple of more things checked off the list.
- Replaced FIP idle thumb screw O ring with new Viton. No more drips 👍
- I got inspired by another members awesome cup holders so I thought I would try to build my own. I had all the parts (plywood, foam, mb Tex). I found the cup holders on eBay for $8👍 A little sawing, gluing, nips & tucks... voilà. 🤣
-
My 1964 230SL never had an emergency/hazard flasher installed and for some time now I planned to install one. With the help of Joe (JA17) and Dave Gallon I finally got almost all the differently colored wires and connectors together to make the sub-harness and to start soldering. For the missing black/white/yellow wire I used a black/white one and added narrow rings of yellow shrink tubing.
Here is the finished product which I think looks pretty decent. Next step is to test it in the car and if everything works to drill the mounting hole at the correct spot in the dash.
-
Here is the finished product which I think looks pretty decent...
wow, great job!
-
it looks great, like a factory job. When did 230's get the hazard flasher, probably '66?
I hope you never have to use it (though they do give some peace of mind even for non-emergency pullovers)
-
Having soldiered the connectors to a Rhode Island Wiring harness for my project I must say: Nicely Done!. Any chance you could post the wiring diagram?
Lee
-
Yes Lee, it is in the works, give me a bit more time.
Dave, if you look at this document issued on August 1967 by MB-USA (https://www.sl113.org/wiki/uploads/Electrical/Hazard_light_installation_guide.pdf) is states "that all vehicles for importation into the USA are currently equipped with hazard warning lights...".
Pagoda Notes Vol. 10, Number 2, shows that with VIN 230SL 012947 (Aug. 9, 65) USA cars are quipped with an emergency flasher systems.
-
I'm trying to save a 24w injection pump and have changed the stabilizers.
Peter
-
A previous owner cut holes in my parcel shelf for two speakers (the horror!) >:(:'( so I decided to make lemonade out of lemons by modernizing my audio system. This has been written about before here, but the technology has advanced sufficiently that I thought I'd share my findings.
I removed the Becker amp connected to my radio and purchased an adaptor cable to plug into the amplifier cable from the radio https://tinyurl.com/yyun87tm (https://tinyurl.com/yyun87tm)
I found an extremely compact 400W (45W rms x 4), 4-channel Class D digital amp with Bluetooth that fits perfectly behind the glove box - Kenwood KAC-M1824BT (see photo). It is also rated for marine use, with a sealed IC board, which prevents circuit components from coming loose.
The hardwired remote cable slides nicely through the existing cutout for the glovebox lock, making the remote control easily accessible.
Connections were simple, and now I have a high-quality amp for my radio, or streaming audio.
All reversible.
-
I’ve had my car, a late 1968 280SL with manual transmission (VIN 6581), for a year now, which overlaps pretty much with this very strange period of worldwide illness and quarantine / on-and-off lockdown, and political new ground.
During that time, this is what happened to the car:
- broke-in the engine, which had been entirely renovated by the PO after a high rev incident that resulted in a damaged piston and rod; retorqued the head and adjusted the valves (the latter two were done by a mechanic)
- restored the cold start system to normal (it wasn’t working at all); turned out the wires to the TTS had been switched (G to W and vice versa), and the CSV was plugged by 50 years of debris and a decomposed seal ring
- worked on the ignition: dialled correct program into 123 distributor (it was using E instead of 8), fine tuned the timing (off by about 10°) and changed the coil from blue to red (no more backfiring when decelerating, smoother acceleration, a bit more oomph)
- changed all the bulbs to LEDs (save the instruments and gauges), which required installing a new flasher for the direction lights
- restored the headlights flasher function (disabled from factory for US cars) by adding the necessary wires to the wiring harness and pins in the connector under the steering wheel
- checked, cleaned and protected (with silicon spray) all the accessible parts of the wiring harness/connectors/pins throughout the car
- cleaned all the outside lights (lenses and reflectors) and replaced a reflector for right hand side front direction light
- renovated the windows winding mechanisms (both sides), as the windows would ‘pop out’ of the rubber tracks at speed (a little bit like Dumbo) and otherwise rattled a little bit on bumpy roads; the jaws had fallen off inside the doors; cleaned, changed the plastic parts, lubricated, reinstalled, adjusted (an iterative process, to say the least, luckily converging towards the end!)
- changed door seals (the sound of a door closing went from a nerve rattling ‘clang’ to a more soothing ‘chonk’ accompanied by a tiny rebound) and checked or changed all the screws and bolt holding external parts and/or trim all around the car
- checked the cleanliness of gas tank, volume of gas flowing through IP
- generally familiarised myself with the car, its main organs and systems (nothing too hardcore yet, as I have no experience of delving into an engine, no tools, but luckily no need to do it so far)
Still to be dealt with (easy and cheap or not too expensive):
- strange reading of the revolution counter / tachometer (seems to be 20% higher than it should be)
- have the radio restored to full function (Becker Europa II Stereo, functioning but low output on only one canal)
- maybe improve the linearity of the gas gauge (although it is working mostly fine, it shows a lower level than actual once the needle reaches more or less half tank and lower)
- improve the glove box fitting in the dash board (I’ve already restored the open/close spring mechanism using the ‘copper pipe tip’ from the Tech Manual, but the fit is still to be dealt with)
Not so cheap:
- the chrome parts and paint are neither here nor there, not bad from 10 feet away, not great as you get closer (but there is no rust other than superficial, mostly on the underbody moving parts that come in contact with the elements, such as suspension wishbone etc.)
- the front hood shows signs of having suffered damage; it is the only part of the car which is not original, and the underside has quite a few dings, bumps and bends, although, remarkably, the outside is straight and the fit to the engine bay seems correct)
- soft and hard top are perfectly functional, but again not on par with the mechanical status of the car (impeccable) and the inside (not bad at all)
Altogether, I'm very happy with the car, have had a satisfying experience working on it (no disaster, no wishing I had left well enough alone, reasonable to complete success in making the hoped for improvements, some head-scratching moments, sometimes for days, leading to some interesting discoveries and learning opportunities), thanks in no small way to all the help I received from members of this forum, and look forward to making continuous improvements and enjoying this beautiful, sophisticated, old but noble combination of machinery and art.
And wishing all of you a very merry Xmas and Happy New Year, in spite of everything else, no matter the circumstances.
-
I had the throttle valve overhauled with new bearings. The restored distributor will come next week.
I had already changed the injectors because of problems with new ones. The old ones were junk.
Peter
-
After 55 years (next month), my MB-Tex upholstery has been looking a bit tired. It's original color was white-grey (interior code 119). I considered replacing it all with new vinyl from GAHH, World, etc., but was unable to find white/off-white replacement vinyl; the closest I could find was parchment, which is MUCH too dark. So I decided to re-dye what I have.
I sent a color sample to Leather Magic, who matched my color and sent me vinyl cleaner, prep, dye, and conditioner. Along the way I also had to do a lot of general cleaning, re-gluing of old vinyl, chrome polishing, and such. The job has taken me two and a half weeks so far (I haven't done anything behind the seats yet). The result is definitely an upgrade for my interior!
-
Impressive 👍👍👍
-
Congrats David, great job.
Now on to your next dash job? ;) ;D
-
Hoo-boy! I found a stable-mate: a '69 Euro 300SEL 6.3...no rust, all there but in many pieces and at least two paint jobs. Engine has the right head off, due, it's said, to an oil leak (???). Last on the road in 1990. Beautiful dash, unhacked! Federalized: gauges, side markers (boo!). My first task is to review the pieces to see if anything material is missing, then sort through and pick the best pieces (lots of extras plus a 109 4.5 parts car) for the body and interior. Sorting the engine and air suspension will be last as I'm not confident of my skills for that (read incapable and ham fingered) so I'll need to seek professional help (mechanic for the car; psychiatrist and yoga instructor for moi). This came as part of a package: the other 109, an 81 240D runner and an 81 Chevette diesel with 28k. Why the guy had this stuff is a long story...
-
Thanks, Alfred!
Actually, I'm going to install a new oatmeal square-weave carpet set from G.A.T. to complement the "new" vinyl first, then back to the electrical work. :P
-
UPDATE: I have cleaned the fuel system and the water system tested the heater core for leakage (tight), had to replace the knobs on the heater/cooling levers, replaced and tested all light bulbs in the dash. My car has the Blaupunkt Frankfurt US (S) radio in it and i serviced that myself as well, did put a new speaker in it (those bastards charged me $100 for a $10 speaker but it has the right hole pattern and is the OEM spec) , Clock is working which surprised the hell out of me ! LOL Interior has been cleaned and reassembled. Before i reassemble the front of the motor I want to take it up a bit and replace the brakes and rubber lines as well. I need to finally turn the motor by hand, I plan on doing this with the 22mm or 24 mm bolt on the crankshaft ? is that ok on this car also which direction should I turn it ? Thank you all very much for assembling this vast wealth of knowledge. I do want to point out 1 flaw in the REPLACING HEATER LEVERS tutorial. Cars with the 10 mm nuts on the rear of the chrome dash pieces, the speaker should be removed to get to the drivers side chrome piece 10mm nut. That is not stated and thru me for a loop, i was able to get it out from behind but there is no way in hell to get it back on, lol. So i had to yank the speaker anyway to verify it didn't turn to dust, which it did and gee whiz i can access that nut now. Trying to be a purist about this project so i did get the OEM correct colors for the knobs (she want the colored knobs them selves) .