Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Harry on July 11, 2018, 18:20:51
-
I am slowly getting back to the head on my 230SL. I want to have it gone through for new guides, stem seals, valves, etc. My question pertains to the rocker arm ball adjusters and bases. Should I remove these as well? They look fine but I worry a bit about damaging them during any rework of the head.
Thoughts/advice?
-
It depends on what you need to do to your head. If the top of the head is warped then everything would need to be removed so the head could be milled. The ball studs can be removed and then reinstalled but there's always a risk of the threads in the head galling during removal. I don't see it that often but I do see it.
If you do end up removing your ball studs use some thread sealer during installation so that oil can't leak around the threads.
-
Watch who you're calling a Pin Head... LOL.
Mike
-
Thanks Benz Dr. I am hoping the only necessary work on the head will be to install new valve seats. I don't have the head off yet and I thought if these need to be removed, the easiest time would be with the head on the engine (to hold it securely).
I can always partially bolt it back in place for this reason if need be, I guess.
Thank you,
Harry
-
You should know that head gaskets are not readily available for 230SL's so you should find one before you remove the head.
-
What?! 230SL head gaskets are not readily available? How can that be?! I think I need to remove the head based on low compression numbers. Squirting oil into the cylinders did not have any effect. I need to look but I also thought I may have seen some coolant in the oil. So I think the head has to come off.
Harry
-
Also, I thought while I was into it this deep, I would freshen up the engine compartment. Here is what is removed at this point, pursuant to that goal:
- Hood
- Alternator
- Exhaust manifold
- FI lines
- Intake manifold
- Radiator and coolant lines
- Valve Cover
- Coolant housing attachment to the head (Where the temp sensor is)
- Chain tensioner
Still left:
- Brake booster
- PS pump reservoir
- Miscsellaneous
Then I would prep and paint the general area, maybe have some plating done, and so forth. This would include really cleaning things up and probably even painting the block. (The previous owner had painted the aluminum components silver, and the general body flat black - ugh.)
The car has just under 100K so it sounds as though I should also replace the timing chain. It would be very helpful to also remove the FI Pump, do this work, then re-install.
The question is how difficult it is to get everything back in time. Right now, the engine is at TDC with the distributor pointing at the indication for number one cylinder. I could install a new timing chain using the old one, it sounds like? Then reset the TDC setting, then proceed with the FI pump removal.
How difficult is it to set everything back into time? What are the thoughts?
Thanks again,
Harry
-
You know, at this point it's only another hour or so of work to pull the engine. It makes everything much more readily accessible and it gets the engine out of the way of the sub frame. Degrease and power wash everything and then start from there. Not a small job but that's where the value is.
-
I had considered that. Would you pull the engine and tranny together, or could you leave the tranny?
And what about resetting the timing all around?