Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: Tyler S on April 21, 2017, 00:04:31
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Hi all,
Just a quick post relating to the vent control levers and the difficulty finding the correct blue, grey and red bodies/levers. As you may know, the smoke colored lever for the mode door has been NLA for quite some time. Current replacements are a shade of barf orange. The red and blue replacements aren't much better and even have manufacturing/clearance flaws in them resulting in loose fitting parts. I have found that salvaging the opaque portions of the existing bodies and transferring the levers from new "donor" parts is the way to go. The small brass rivets used are 3/32" diameter, 7/32" long. A 3/32" arbor and pin tool is used to flair and set the rivets. Both available at a craft store or Amazon. Correct rivets would be metric sized but I don't think a judge would be under your dash measuring them. They may however see the incorrect colored plastic. Metric rivets and setting tools may be available elsewhere but I had no luck this side of the pond.
The old rivets can be carefully cut or drilled out of your old lever being careful not to crack the plastic. Removing the new levers from their plastic is about the same. Just keep your drill bit on the opaque lens side as not to damage the black lever plastic if you slip. A drill press would come in very handy. Drill just enough to remove the rivet head. Then use a punch (by hand) to remove the rivet body. Transfer your new lever over to your old plastic and use the new rivets and setting tool to finish your work.
Hope this helps, Tyler
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More pics for above post
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Tyler,
It would be great if you can add this to the Tech Manual along with the other Heater Lever info.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/ReplaceHeaterLeavers
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Previous posting with corresponding info
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22347.msg162136#msg162136 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22347.msg162136#msg162136)
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Hans
I "thought" I had seen this lever rivit fix before but could not find it.
All the more reason to add to the Tech Manual. That way we can find it. but I also know it's not so simple to add.
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.... but I also know it's not so simple to add.
Almost anything can be learned. I am sure you can do it, Oz! ;)
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I'll make an attempt at adding to the manual. I did search for that other thread but also did not find it even though I remembered seeing it somewhere before. I think key here is we now have a rivet size proven that works, that is readily available. The tool is about 25 bucks or one could use the punch/ball bearing method for setting them. The tool does provide a clean looking finish just like the original and it is more controllable. I would be wary of breaking the plastic without it.
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Almost anything can be learned. I am sure you can do it, Oz! ;)
Alfred, the reason I know that it's not easy is because I put the "starter" info into the tech manual. I was never able to fix the photos as they are too big, but, I did get the info in there.
I would still encourage Tyler & HANS to get their info in the tech manual as they have "lots" to offer ;D
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Hi Oz,
changing the size of photos is simple, just add the desired pixel size in front of the photo command, that is: %width=600px%
Go to your write up: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Starter and see the result. If you like another size better just change the px number.
Also note on the left side the help files for basic editing and FAQ. The latter shows you what i just did with your entry.
First click on "PmWiki FAQ" and then click on "Images"
and you'll get this: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/PmWiki/Images
There is also a sandbox for practicing without causing troubles. ;)
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Alfred,
Very nicely done (fixed). Looks so much better now. Much appreciated. You make it look so easy. It may a left-brain, right-brain or a no-brain issue. Will try harder next time.
Best,
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Nice fix Tyler, it works well, I have been using it for years but I do not have the slick special tool! Also remember that new original MB "grey levers) have a raised boss which must be ground down to clear the speaker magnet (if you have a dash speaker). Original grey levers had already been ground down from the factory. New ones from MB are not. If your car does not use the dash speaker, you will not have to grind down the boss. I use a Dremel to grind the head off the hollow rivet to release the parts. You can also use the colored bodies off sedan units of the era (W108 and W109) since all the bodies are the same and colors correct except for the blue one which has a switch built into it. The soft rubber handles on the sedan units are a bit different shaped, but you are using the new rubber handles anyway.