Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Photo Gallery => Topic started by: cabrioletturbo on August 23, 2014, 04:53:59
-
So I bit the bullet and bought on impulse this from-a-mile great looking red 230SL.
Little did I know that the amount of bondo previously applied to the car could be measured in buckets.
Running, driving example. My kids love the smell, the noise it makes and cornering...
Year later, it has spanking brand new floors and rockers (Dan's Benz Barn helped a great deal). Rolling resto continues this year with further body work and hopefully a great paint job in spring '15.
Since I live in Toronto, I would welcome any local owners'get-together...
Few pictures from last year when I got the car.
-
Hi
Welcome to the forum.
If you want to have an idea of who's is in your area, use the search engine on the Members chapter. Colons are case sensitive, so you can select names according to their location.
Good luck and enjoy the new addiction :)
-
Thanks Stan.
The body showed some rust issues (rotten patches), but the extent of rot was not known. The car exhibited body flexing when going over pot holes. I though the shocks were bad...
As you will see below, there was some significant rust on the rockers and floors. Not for the faint of heart.
A few pics from the beginning of resto. I am sure many members could relate to these... The car was "repaired" and painted 27 years ago. While paint held nicely, the body suffered from moisture.
Over the course of 27 years, it was driven only 10,000 km.
R&R started from passenger side. These are the floors with bondo+rust. At this time it was too early to know the extent of previous "repair".
-
Once bondo was removed, things started looking pretty bad... I was not sure whether I should cry and abandon the project (part the damn thing) or continue. I guess an optimist in me prevailed. Fenders had to be cut to remove foot well.
The last picture shows me standing in the passenger footwell. What footwell? There is none of it left.
-
A few dollars in sheet metal later. Looks promising...
-
That's quite some work you're into. I'm not a body/chassis specialist, but shouldn't you have welded some rods to keep the body straight while you are cutting so much out of it? Make sure your doors close well once you're finished!
-
Thanks for your comment. Measurements were taken before to ensure fit after the work is done. Few more shots.
-
Igor, looks to me as if you know what your doing! You seem to be making very good progress as well. Keep it up and keep the photos coming. Love it. This work seemed to take me forever. Have you done much panel work like this before?
-
Thanks Andy, but I need to clarify: I actually have a good body man who is doing all the metal work. There is some minor fabrication involved, as in the picture showing the passenger side bracket. Robert did great work there.
Most of the sheet metal I have purchased through a local, well known supplier (Thanks, Dan!), so that make the job easier. My turn to roll up the sleeves would be - when the body is done.
All mechanical, upholstery, the rest of the kinks will be mine to resolve.
The way it is looking, I will most likely be buying another pagoda - these are phenomenal cars to own and drive! I would leverage the knowledge gained with this car to: a) find a better vehicle to begin with, and b) resolve majority of the issues myself, and c) get my wife to drive it! It seems it is quickly becoming the family thing.
On the below pictures it is shown were I decided to stop for the season in the wheel well area. Further front body work requires front clip off the body (I was hoping we do not go there, but...), so that is coming this fall/winter.
-
Off to the driver's side now.
Both A pillars were so rusted out that they were barely holding onto the rockers. Passenger side was by far worse, but driver's was following closely.
-
Removed old stuff, bare again.
If you wondered what the last pic is about, it is the amount of rust, old metal and who-knows-what-else.
-
More pics on the extent of removed metal. I am positive most of you are glad you were not in my shoes...
-
New metal in.
-
Both rear wheel wells were cleaned and patched where required.
Driver's floor meets new rocker.
-
...and the red rocket got out of the shop in June!
Fender pieces were welded back together and tacked to the body (for ease of future removal), fender bottoms and quarter bottoms were replaced, outside body was primed and inside painted beige.
Although summer here was not that great, I enjoyed driving it! I must mention that the car now feels very sturdy, no wobbly feeling from 10 months ago. If I only knew I had to spend... ...never mind. I enjoyed the process.
The body will undergo another season of heavy metal work (front clip resto and some rear end work). I am planning on stripping it to bare metal myself, removing the engine/tranny, upholstery, etc., and then handing it over to the shop.
I expect the body work and paint should be done by spring/summer 2015. I am staying red. Is there any other color? ;D
-
Power train out, paint stripping in progress.
-
The amount of body filler was staggering. I regret I did not weigh the total amount of filler removed from the body panels.
There were about seven layers of different material: Factory primer, 1st paint, primer 1, primer 2, 2nd paint, primer, 3rd paint.
Please note butcher's job around the tail light area.
No wonder the tail light could not sit flush with the body panel. Will rectify.
-
Stripped enough. Waiting for the body shop.
BTW, quarter panel moldings, anyone? I am looking for a pair.
It would be nice if I had them while quarter panels are done, so that the mounting holes could be aligned with those on the doors.
-
Amazing amount of work! You're making impressive progress. Keep posting updates.
-
Dear Igor,
Absolutely stunning work !
OMG, there was a lot of rust, boy ...!
First when I saw the floorpan rust pictures (BTW quite common for our cars) that you were better doing to strip the whole car.
But on the other side I really like the idea that you just did the rails, floorpans and lower fender sections in order to have your car running the summer again.
What a great idea!
Keep on the excellent work and pls. keep us updated !
Very impressive,
Achim
(also lots of rust)
-
Holy moely, quite the undertaking, I just aquired a 67 230SL and plan on doing the same thing. My driver side is bad front and rear but I hope it's not as bad as what you went thru, awesome work man.
-
On the way to the shop
-
Wow!
That's an incredible job. Thank you for sharing your story.
-
Igor
it looks like you were doing not the car renovation but a car resurrection. Very much in the mood of Easter :)
Your statement that this is an experience that would benefit towards the next Pagoda sounds more and more substantial every day
Good luck,
-
Thanks, Stan.
Your comment got me thinking - as the car is not registered yet, I may go for a customized plate that reads: "Phoenix" in case it has not been reserved already.
For some time I was looking for a catchy plate name, I think I got it now ;)
Igor
it looks like you were doing not the car renovation but a car resurrection. Very much in the mood of Easter :)
Your statement that this is an experience that would benefit towards the next Pagoda sounds more and more substantial every day
Good luck,
-
Your welcome! Nice to be the source of inspiration ;D
-
Pretty bad inner fender and support...
-
Other side not much better either
-
After some time (read almost a year) and a new body man, some progress...
-
Wheel wells look pretty decent after what they went through for the last three decades.
Rear panel is OEM MB - thank you, Jack Jones.
-
Igor,
Very well done ! Keep on the good work.
Don't get frustrated about the "endless body work". It's the main structure of the car and decides mainly about the overall quality of the car.
What you do today to the car is "forever." :D
There are soo many nicely looking cars with very poor condition under the shiny paint ... :'(
Ask me (and others) how I know ....
Achim
('64 230 rustbucket)
-
Thank you Achim, for the encouraging words.
What I find the most difficult is - finding the right person to do the bodywork.
I went long ways to find someone who can: a) do it right and to my liking, and b) do it before I go completely grey or bald.
I guess the professions such as sheet metal work, old school paint, engine overhaul, injection pump rebuild, etc. are dying with the last mohicans still practicing.
I am not sure how these cars will be maintained in future.
Mine, as far as I am concerned, will last forever, of that you are right.
-
Rear end epoxy primed. The sheet metal work now shifts to the front end.
-
Apparently, this puppy of mine may have gone through some racing in its troubled life.
The car had to go onto frame machine to straighten passenger side frame arm and make additional corrections to drivers side as well.
Shots of passenger side progress.
-
More pics on drivers side.
The driver's side inner fender was butchered up previously, but still was mostly original. Some fabrication had to happen to bring it back where it was supposed to be.
Passenger side inner fender was replaced at some point with the newer style panel (the one with service holes).
Both inner fenders required significant patch work. I wish I ordered them new.
-
And the body has been done!
Some final body panel adjustments still to be done, but the old girl is back to its den... This is the least I could do for her 50th birthday.
For those attempting to buy a "bargain" pagoda, be aware: cost of refurbishing the body may very well exceed the price you will pay for the whole car.
As how my brother put it: "You could have bought a porsche"...
Since I am now over this hump, I expect the paint to be done some time in spring.
-
Thanks to mild December, the bodyshop says pull the car in, as they do not have influx of winter driver accidents just yet. Nothing to complain about, I'd rather have my car done sooner.
I marked the area which require attention. The car will be painted 670 + clear coat, the boot, trunk, lids and rocker covers with semi-gloss 7164.
Any last words of wisdom before it rolls onto the trailer?
-
Notice door gaps and other misc items of attention
-
Next time I make this shot the car should be done with paint.
-
Any last words of wisdom before it rolls onto the trailer?
Before the final paint job it might be worth checking how the crome parts fit. At least the grill frame and headlight rings...
-
Thank you, yes the grill and headlight rings are going to the body shop tomorrow.
While the car is being worked at, the steel rims were in for a treat tonight - fresh coat of POR15.
I sand blasted them this passed summer and prepped them over this past weekend.
They are being 'baked' tonight.
They will receive the body color 670 at the body shop.
-
I am very impressed with the body shop I engaged for the final adjustments and paint job.
Magic man Tony in action, 35 years of experience. Note gap fittings.
-
White primer...
-
Engine bay and Door jambs painted and awaiting the body paint.
Single stage DB670 it is, as per original.
-
Imperfections in paint (as marked with blue stickers) will be sanded down and the car will be resprayed.
-
Looking good Igor!! Are you going to have the chromework re-plated or is it in good shape?
-
I have bought some new chrome, bought some replated pieces and some I still have to either purchase or replate the existing - I have not gotten to that just yet.
The major milestone was having the shell done. Second was the engine purchase.
The rest should be just labour to put everything back together.
-
Imperfections in paint (as marked with blue stickers) will be sanded down and the car will be resprayed.
What happened? Seems surprising they would not get it right. Good for you to insist on quality. When do you expect to have the car ready?
-
The paint was cracking in some areas during spraying. The hood seem to be affected the most, even though it had the least issues of all the body panels.
The shop advised me of the paint cracking and they would need to strip down the areas with issues to ensure proper paint adhesion.
At this time not sure what the culprit was, as one shop worked with sheet metal (and first layer of build primer) and the current one with block sand/prep and paint.
Funny enough the quarter panels were the most challenging body panels to work on (lots of sheet metal work) and those areas showed zero paint issues.
I am mostly happy with the quality of spray down. They will do what is needed to get the job done right, of that I am positive.
As to the completing the whole job: I still have lots to do. I give it another year at my pace to get everything sorted out.
-
I guess a good thing is after all the work the car will be back in your hands/garage to do the final assembly. I know this might sound corny but when you put your list together on re-assembly, write down "Hood Medallion" as your very last item to cross off the list!
-
Painted!!!
-
It got eyes!!!
..Headlights, of course... I am really happy the body shop created the headlight creases on the inner sides of the fenders. Now all that align very good with the chrome bezels in place. The repro headlight seals (headlight housing to fender) from Authentic Classics are good, however for best results you may want to trim them - I noticed a few cars with those seals not installed properly. They overhang the bezel and just show poorly when the trimming was not done. Maybe I will take a few pics of a trimmed seal - maybe some members would benefit?
Lesson learned - pay attention: I refurbished the headlights to the best of my abilities until I find a better set. Brand new Bosch glass on the old headlight housing. IMPORTANT: Assuming you already installed the glass on the housing and you are ready to put it on the car - DO NOT over tighten the headlight to the fender right away. I did, so one brand new glas cracked, right where one of the six clips go and it is practically unusable for me anymore. I guess the tension was just too much for the glass. They do not come cheap, so that was a sad day.
Well it took long but I am finally back to the project. Replacing the front subframe from a W108 280SE donor. Mostly new rubber parts replacing worn out ones, but leaving some used when new parts appear to be of inferior quality. New king pins, shocks, some other bits. I know W108 sway bar would not fit, so scrubbing and painting of W113 one in the plan, before install.
In a load of parts which I recently acquired, there was a brand spanking new steering head. On the car it goes.
Last picture shows steering coupler, from the driver's floor side. The picture shows some Godly rays of light, so the picture can go straight to Technical Manual!
The coupler which was on the car was without a bushing on one side - no wonder the car drove funny! I had to remove the steering column jacket to get access to the rear bolt (thank you, Dan). Funny enough I recall removing the coupler without issues from the engine compartment on a W108, but W113 - everything a little bit more complicated, isn't it?
-
Sorting out the bay before I port the engine. Some work here is better done prior to the engine install, as after it would become more complicated. For example, my front brake lines were bent and kinked at several places, so I decided to replace them. At the same time, coolant overflow tank, wiring harness and brake booster are getting some sprucing up before the install - additional pictures are coming by Sunday.
The new firewall pad did not come with cutouts for the overflow tank. I guess that may be because 280SL, unlike 230SL, does not bolt to the firewall. I tried locating a picture with the correct position, so I do not damage the pad unnecessarily. Anyone have a clean 230SL firewall picture without the pad? In lieu of the picture, I will try my luck with a pin needle poking into the firewall until I find the holes...
-
I almost forgot: while I was assembling the front axle onto the car, I ran into an issue with the bracket on the passenger side of the frame arm (see pictures). When the wheels were pointed straight, the long tie rod in the middle of the car rubbed against the bolt on the back of the subframe. In addition, the passenger tie rod hits the bracket. All of this is due to the wrong angle/positioning of the bracket.
Luckily, I have another pagoda which I used to copy the correct angle off of, hired a mobile welder and got the issue resolved. For now. Once all parts are on the car, a visit to the alignment shop will have the last say.
-
Pictures of the bracket fix. How did the picture come upside-down is beyond me.
-
Igor,
This has come a long way from the photos of 2014. Impressive transformation. Very nice work.
-
I prudently worked on it - when I had time, and the results are there, thank you for acknowledging.
I kept the costs list along the way and then at one point I have thrown the calculator. Now it is just what it is - labour of love...
Speaking of which, below a picture of my 'labour of love' with the engine/transmission installed and in a good company.