Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: wwheeler on September 02, 2008, 14:33:32
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I went to adjust my valves on my 2.8 M130 engine this weekend. First of all, the adjustment nut seemed to be slightly smaller than 17 mm but bigger than 16mm. I tried two different wrenches with the same result. The other thing is that some of the nuts are hard to reach with all of the injector lines in the way. Is there a special wrench or tool for this?
I also had one nut that just would not move. Any suggestions about how to free it?
Thanks for the help.
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Yes, there are special valve adjustment wrenches, 17mm for a M130 and 14mm for a M127.
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/66andBlue/2008921717_ValveTools1.jpg)
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Thanks for the reply. That looks like exactly what I need. Do you know where you can get it?
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quote:
Originally posted by 66andBlue
Yes, there are special valve adjustment wrenches, 17mm of a M130 and 14mm for a M127.
Which size for a 250 SL? Got a part number? Maybe MB sells a "replaced by" wrench. Their price on the 14 mm / 17 mm drain plug tool wasn't bad at all...
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Use my valve 'spring compressor tool' to remove the rocker arm. Adjust the ball stud with a six point socket. The geometry of the rocker arm/cam shaft/ball stud thread pitch arrangement dictates the relationship between the gap and degrees of turn on the ball stud. Should get it with two adjustments. The socket eliminates the problem of rounding off the ball stud faces and loosens them up.
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quote:
Originally posted by wwheeler
Thanks for the reply. That looks like exactly what I need. Do you know where you can get it?
Hi Wallace,
what you see in the picture are Joe A.'s tools.
The one in the middle is a 17mm Hazet tool p/n 329-3 and used ones come up quite often on eBay. Otherwise for new ones try Samstagsales.com or thetoolnetwork.com
[Just to be complete the 14mm tool is a Hazet p/n 329-2].
As far as I know the "correct" tool is NLA from Mercedes. The BBB for the 280SL shows on page 00-3/2, Fig. 00-3/5, a p/n 115 589 00 0100
-- I just noticed that you have a 280SE! The BBB shows a p/n 000589 14 0100 for a 280SE/9 3.5
[BBB for the 230SL same page, Fig. 00-3/3 shows p/n 111 589 00 0100 for the 14mm].
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quote:
Originally posted by scoot
...Which size for a 250 SL?
Sorry, I don't know whether the M129 requires a 17mm or a 14mm wrench - - I assume your 250SL has that motor?
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quote:
Originally posted by 66andBlue
Originally posted by scoot
...Which size for a 250 SL?
The M129 engine in a 250SL requires a 14mm crows foot wrench for the valve adjusters. 17mm came with the M130 (280SL).
If the adjuster screw is really stuck, follow glennards advise and use a 6-point hex socket to break the bind. Note however, the adjusters should always be very tight and hard to turn. If not they may shift themselves (and thus the valve gap) when the motor is running
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The ball stud should have a minimum ft-lb(lb-ft) resistance. It is listed somewhere-BBB, Haynes, ??. If your's is stuck, it must have more than enough.
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I have found a 17 mm crowsfoot wrench that will work the same as the other wrenches pictured below when I use an extension. For the adjuster screw that is stuck, I will definetly have to remove the rocker arm and use the socket.
Thanks for the great advice!
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When adjusting valves, what are the tolerances? Would you tend to want the clearance on the tighter side of the spec to account for wear?
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Hey Guys,
When you have them adjusted properly, will you still here then "click" at higher speeds? My engine has never been rebuilt and/or had any major repair work done on it, and doesn't seem to need any. I don't hear any clicking at low speed or in park, etc. but do hear a "soft clicking" when in high speed. Would that be a normal situation for these cars with 106,000 miles on it :?: or is it something that should be worked on?
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quote:
Originally posted by scoot
Which size for a 250 SL? Got a part number?
Hi Scott,
There is one for you on Ebay: Item number: 33026845348
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I purchased a Baum #123-0361 valve spring compressor that is supposed to be for the 6 cylinder M130 engine amoungst others. I cannot however, figure out how it attaches to the valvetrain to compress the spring. The double-hook piece on the end of the bar has me baffled. Does some one have a picture of it being used on a M130 application?
Thanks as always.
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Wallace,
I don't have a picture but the double hooks go under the camshaft on either side of the cam lobe of the valve you are trying to compress.
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Valve adjustment is all done!
I had to bend the hook on the Baum spring compressor tool to get it to slip under the camshaft and engage, but it worked.
I only had two adjusting screws that were really tight and had to remove the arms and use a socket to break them. One was so tight that I had to use a 1/2" drive to break it. The flats on that adjuster were somewhat rounded off, so it has obviously been a problem before. That was scary!
The other adjusters were not really loose but I think they should be tighter for a self locking screw. One day perhaps, I will replace all of them.
Thanks for everyone's help!
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I would like this subject covered at the next gathering in 2009 at Joe and Mary Alexander's pagoda fest. I have only seen it done once and would like to get a demonstration on some one's SL so people like my self can feel comfortable doing it them selfs and know what tools are required?
Bob Geco
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Hello Bob,
No problem, we will have it on the agenda! In addition Alfred and myself have been gathering information and photos for a good "valve adjustment tour" coming your way soon.
Take care,
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I look forward to the valve adjustment tour so I can see how I should have done it!
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The Valve Adjustment Tour is now available in the Wiki Technical Manual:
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Restricted.ValveAdjustmentTour
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All of this inforfation isn't worth much to you if you run out of adjustment room at the ball stud. The basic geometry has to be right or it will take out all the valve guides.