Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Photo Gallery => Topic started by: cascadia on May 18, 2008, 23:48:16
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I received a call recently from a gentleman who had a 1965 230SL for sale. It had been stored in a barn for the last 5 or 6 years and "ran when parked". He said it had Euro lights and very minimal rust, that's all I needed to hear. This morning I drove out about an hour north of Portland to see it. As you can see in the photos, it was quite a sight. In my business I've sold over a dozen pagodas, so in effect I get to enjoy ownership of them for a few weeks at a time. I've had some beautiful examples and some with rare options. However, I've always dreamt of finding a project that I could keep for myself, one that I could get running, spiff up a bit cosmetically, but basically have as a "driver". What I wanted is a car I could run around town with, park anywhere, leave the top down, and not fret over.
Well, today I found my car. Outside the barn we negotiated a price over the sounds of hens squawking and dogs barking, it was a funny scene. $3000 was the price we agreed on. I had to take his word that the car ran well before it was parked 5 years ago. I turned the motor over briefly and it's free. The gearbox linkage feels good, brake and clutch pedal feel ok too. I'll start by going through all of the fluids. My 7 year old son and I really get a kick out of the car's green "patina", my wife just shakes her head. The interior is a bit moldy but it's original and sound. Doors open and close beautifully. Heater levers are original and move freely, carpet is original but will need to be replaced. Seats and dash are great! Glove box is locked (no key) but I'm hoping to find some paperwork in there. Speedo is in KM. The firewall has an extra info plate with an address in Paris, maybe the selling dealership? Would love to know how it ended up here. There's some minor bubbling in spots that I'll have to address, floorboards are original and solid. Trunk floor has been replaced, guess you can't have it all. Feeling like a lucky guy.
Here are the pics....
Bob in Portland
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200851911843_barn1.jpg)
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200851912053_barn2.jpg)
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200851912242_barn3.jpg)
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What a terrific tale. Let us know how the story unfolds. Thanks for sharing, Bob.
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That is really cool. Would be great if you kept the thread alive with updates as you work through the kinks (with more photos!).
By the way, what paint code is that? :D ;)
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Bob,
might I suggest that these photos would be a marvellous addition for our Coffee Table Book... And yes, keep making more of them and keep us up-to-date!
I love that colour Green too... ;)
Peter
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Right in step with the times, an eco-friendly Pagoda! Can't wait to hear the tales along the way.
With the French plate on the fire wall, does it have the amber back up lights as you would expect on a French car??
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Hey, re-use and recycle, right? The left tail light does have the amber back up light, the right side does not. I will definitely post pictures as I go along!
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I'm so jelous.... I wish I could find one for that price.
It looks like it's suposed to be white, but what color is the interior?
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Exterior color is Papyrus White with a caviar (black) tex interior. Here's a pic, it's pretty grungy. Most all of it can be cleaned and saved but I will have to spring for some new square weave carpet. I spent the better part of today basically gutting the interior. Once the seats were out I sprayed them down with Simple Green, scrubbed it in and hosed them off, they turned out great. No real surprises along the way, although I did find a French 5c piece dated 1968 from its days in Paris. The floors look good, found a bit of rust in one of the rear wells along with a mouse corpse, otherwise so far so good!
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200852213025_barn4.jpg)
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quote:
Originally posted by cascadia
Exterior color is Papyrus White with a caviar (black) tex interior. Here's a pic, it's pretty grungy. Most all of it can be cleaned and saved but I will have to spring for some new square weave carpet. I spent the better part of today basically gutting the interior. Once the seats were out I sprayed them down with Simple Green, scrubbed it in and hosed them off, they turned out great. No real surprises along the way, although I did find a French 5c piece dated 1968 from its days in Paris. The floors look good, found a bit of rust in one of the rear wells along with a mouse corpse, otherwise so far so good!
Be prepared to find lots of mouse poo. As I've been working on mine, I found everything under the dash was covered with it. I finally decided to tear into the ducts and found their nest. I must have pulled a cubic foot of what looked like batting out.
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quote:
Originally posted by Paddy_Crow
Be prepared to find lots of mouse poo. As I've been working on mine, I found everything under the dash was covered with it. I finally decided to tear into the ducts and found their nest. I must have pulled a cubic foot of what looked like batting out.
I mis-read this and died laughing. I thought you said MOOSE poo, not mouse poo, and was having a difficult time imagining how this could be the case...
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The nest I found was in one of the rear wells, and yes, there was a huge amount of cotton fluff of some sort in there. I also found a couple of mouse corpses in one of the forward footwells, in the void behind the kick panel. The only items that are giving me a hard time are the sill trim strips, those tiny screws just don't want to come out. I went ahead and removed the soft top frame, the top itself looked fairly sound but I think I'll want to start with a fresh new one.
I was afraid to discover what I would find underneath the seat cushions when I pulled the seats but they are surprisingly perfect. My upholsterer tells me that there's something about the way the horsehair is treated that doesn't appeal to mice. Being paranoid about Hantavirus I wore a mask and gloves throughout the process. After this picture was taken I ended up taking the glove box and radio panel out as well. Looks like they were scurrying about in there to but thankfully no wiring had been chewed on from what I can see. Pretty disgusting work all in all but that's what you get with a $3000 car.
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200852405916_barn5.jpg)
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quote:
I mis-read this and died laughing. I thought you said MOOSE poo, not mouse poo, and was having a difficult time imagining how this could be the case...
It could have been a small moose and anyway the car has an air freshener so all would be OK :o)
Richard M, NYC
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There was probably some mouse poison in the barn, which the mice ate and died when they returned to their home. For whatever reason, they seem to have left all of my wiring alone too.
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Bob,
What a great story!
Mice debris is a comon find in SLs being stored for a long time. Both of my SLs I had "collected" that kind of experience.
The little rodents usually enter the passenger cabin through the open flap of the ventilation cowl, nibble themselves through the old filter mesh & start to build nests in the heat & ventilation system until they run out of food...[:0]
Once I found myself dreaming behind the wheel of my non-drivable car when I suddenly heard a strange crinkly noise behind the dashboard. I closed all ventilation in- and outlets .... and you guess it :oops: , the noise disappeared after a while. Well, some strange smell came in then and stayed ...[:0]
Once when the car was still around one of these little colleages entered the trunk through one of the rust holes and chew up the red handle of the (crank-type) jack. This plastic thing was really without any nutritious value for the little rodent, however, good enough to cause some additional "mess around".
:?
All these little stories
Achim
(parts & knowledge collector)
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Don't get me started on rodent damage... I've had them chew insulation off wiring causing shorts. One got a terminal shock when it chewed through the insulation of the hot lead from the battery to the starter solenoid. I've had them chew the rubber sheathing right off of brake hoses. I've had them chew through rubber coolant and vacuum hoses. I've had them chew right through the plastic charcoal canister and make a nest inside. I've had them eat the insulation behind carpets amd make nests in seats. Most recently I've had them climb in the intake and make a nest out of the paper element in the air cleaner. When they ran out of nesting material from the filter element, they shredded half the backing off the hood insulation and carried it up into the air cleaner to complete the nest. Started the car and it tried to suck the whole nest, family and all, down the intake manifold before the engine literally suffocated and quit. What was it one of the feline cartoon characters used to say? "I hate meeses to pieces!"
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Ok, here's an update. The car's fuel system, as expected, is kaput. I pulled the gas tank and have sent it off to be boiled out and sealed. The tank fixit guy says he knows to keep the passages clear under the flower pot so I guess I just have to trust him, he says he's done these tanks before.
I have power to the fuel pump but no movement. Tried some gentle tapping, nothing. My hunch is that the injection pump is going to be gummed up too.
Thanks to Craigslist I've found a 67 250SE sedan for sale, running and driving but with body problems for $1000. From what I've read, the IP and FP from the 66-67 sedan can be swapped over to the 113, I'm going to see it tomorrow morning and check it out. If I can get it as a parts car I figure I'll be well ahead of the game with just getting those 2 items swapped over for under $1000.
Here's a pic of the car, I've begun de-trimming it. Tomorrow it's getting towed over to the steam cleaners for the engine bay and undercarriage. I'm actually going have him stay off the body so I can keep the green swamp look for awhile. Once I get it running and driving I think it will be a hoot to run it around looking like this![:p]
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/2008528235310_barn6.jpg)
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Bob,
Still a great story, what a find!
There's more to take care of.
Make sure the brakes work well, especially the brake hoses gum up internally with the years & the brakes won't release any more although the pedal feels fine. Please check also your tires, it's not impossible that those are already 20 years old - too old.
While a fuel pump swap is ok (I assume you are going to switch from the large body style towards the small style with the 250 SE part), the fuel injection pumps cannot be exchanged. Theoretically they could but the 230 SL's engine (M 127 II) has a unique injection pump, which it does not share with any other FI Mercedes passenger car.
Do all the timing, adjusting, linkage tour (very well described by Joe Alexander here on this homepage, http://index.php?topic=5003).
New points, new filters, new fluids (including differntial & gearbox and all these things are mandatory.
Finally, don't forget the lube job (19 grease nipples) described in the owner's manual.
Check that all the electric components are working well, at least the mandatory ones.
And ah yes, as we are (only) talking about rodents traces, please make sure that no hidden damages have been caused by them.
All rubber & coolant hoses ...
Oh, there's o much more to take care of before you start your engine for the first time in the last 100 years ...
Good luck!
Achim
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you could rebuild you existing fuel pump if it is the original. see here
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Fuel.FuelPumpRebuildEarly
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Yes, I decided to pass on buying the sedan. The IP was indeed a bit different. I think I will go ahead and take a shot at rebuilding my fuel pump, the wiki page is a great resource. Thanks for the advice!
Bob in Portland
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I would recommend sending the injection pump to Jerry Fairchield Industries, Redding, CA 916-241-1592.
They will rebuild your pump and set it up. Send your injectors along with the cold start valve. There too much to know to try to rebuild it yourself.
He did mine and I couldn't be more satisfied. All you have to do is take it out and put it back in. It's a no brainer.
I went though everything you will have to do.( Gas tank, fuel pump, injection pump rebuild and fuel lines)
Good luck with your SL.
Peter Perry
1965 230SL
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This may some good reading material for you relative to injection pumps.
reference:
http://www.slmarket.com/fuel.htm
Peter Perry
1965 230SL
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Hi Bob,
last year I found a car like your which was sleeping from 1979.
The only difference was the engine running and the body without mouses...
I spent 3 months to rebuild injection pump, to change all hoses and other small maintenance but now the engine is perfect, upholstery is clean and the body is still original, also the soft top.
I don't know why but I'm quite sure your vin number is close to mine so I'm curious to know your.
Mine is 11304210013755, made 11/2/1965.
How I found my 230Sl
(http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/608/pagoda30dz5.jpg)
How is now
(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/9437/pagoda48vn6.jpg)
production data
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/911/schedaaw2.jpg)
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Very similar indeed! You're right about the production sequence, the production numbers are just 429 apart! Neat car, I really like those Italian side marker lamps.
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200863211514_pic27595.jpg)
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quote:
Originally posted by cascadia
I really like those Italian side marker lamps.
The Italian side marker lamps are the SAME of FIAT 500 and others Fiat models ;)
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Ok, progress. I received my gas tank back last week from cleaning, it looks good. Found some time today to get the car on the lift and remove the fuel pump. Carefully unscrewed the bottom cover, there was a perfect impression of the vane imprinted on it with gummed up gasoline varnish. I took a razor blade and got it cleaned up in no time. Sprayed some carb cleaner on the vane, it moves freely. Put it back together and ran a mix of gas and injector cleaner through it for a minute or two, this thing pumps like crazy, it's working great. Sometimes the jobs you think are going to be big aren't that bad after all.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) fuel_pump_test.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200861204329_barn7.jpg)
141.44 KB
I blew out both fuel lines on the car, put in a new fuel filter. Oil and spark plugs were changed last week. Points, cap and rotor look good. Mounted the new gas tank and put in a few gallons. Turned the key and listened to that fuel pump work. Now the moment of truth...... :| ......after a few seconds of cranking it started right up! I only ran it for a few seconds then checked things over. Turns out part of the throttle linkage was frozen, right where the rod comes up through the intake manifold. One of those pivot arms was locked up tight. Tried penetrating oil and then a blow torch, nothing. I ended up having to remove it
and mount it in a vise. 30 minutes of tapping and oiling and it came free. Cleaned up the shaft and reassembled it with lots of grease. Ran the car a little more, it sounds pretty good. I added a pint of injector cleaner to the 3 gallons of gas in the tank for a concentrated mixture. The car idles great but will stumble and die when I move the throttle, will have to figure that one out. All in all though, a good afternoon!
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A very good day, indeed! ;^)
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Bob,
Can we expect a full album of detailed pictures (in your usual excellent fashion) in the near future??? :oops:
naj
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Gotta love the 'Test Stand'!!!---
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I haven't taken a whole lot of photos along the way, most times I'm just trying to figure out what the heck I'm doing and only afterwards realize I should have taken a picture!
I did figure out the stalling-out problem after the car hits high rpms and I have bjudd to thank for that. His post "8 drops of magic" reminded me to oil the distributor and sure enough, the problem was that the advance wasn't coming back to normal soon enough. The car is now actually running very well!
Took the car for a little spin, 100 feet down the street and back, the car does shift and brake, I took a razor blade and cleared a spot on the windshield to see out of, my neighbors got a laugh out of that....[:p]
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The weather was so nice today that I got a little bold and decided to drive the car back home from my shop. It's only 11 blocks but I haven't gone through the braking system yet so it was something of a risk. Somehow I felt like the car would be ok and sure enough, it did great. Took it back to the shop after dinner and this thing really seems to be running well. Going to get those brakes gone through and take it for a longer drive. Here's a fun picture of it on its first trip out as a running driving car. Methinks the Gods are smiling on it.
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200861223444_barn8.jpg)
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That green "patina" does look cool.
Cheers,
Michael
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Well I guess I jinxed myself with that comment about the smiling Gods. :evil:
Took the car for another quick shakedown drive today, I wanted to get it up to speed and into 4th gear. I'm in 4th for about 10 seconds when it gently, almost imperceptibly, slips out and then I don't have any gears at all. Coasted to a stop and got a tow from AAA. The pedal seems fine, reservoir has fluid, slave cylinder is moving with the pedal. I can hear/feel the linkage moving the gears. I'll check tomorrow to see if the driveshaft is actually turning or not, could be drive-line related I suppose. Thoughts? Suggestions?
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Great photo that you posted on June 12th!! I did have to laugh about you scraping a spot on the windshield to see - like some of drivers in New England after a snow storm where they scrape 12 square inches of snow and ice so that they can drive down the highway.
Remember, the God's may not be smiling today....but you are doing "God's Work" in bringing her back to life! We are ultimately all 'stewards of the Pagodas".
Doug
1967 250SL (early)
4-Speed, Orient Red, Leather
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Looks like the problem is in the differential, the prop shaft is turning freely while in gear. I'm going to start a topic in the drivetrain forum to figure out the best approach to the problem.
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quote:
I took a razor blade and cleared a spot on the windshield to see out, my neighbors got a laugh out of that...
The neighbors may be laughing today but they won't be laughing when your're finished sprucing up the car...they'll be shedding tears of jealousy.
Richard M, NYC
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quote:
Originally posted by Sigman
That green "patina" does look cool.
Cheers,
Michael
Is that the famous "Moss Green?"
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Thanks for sharing. Great pictures and story - keep up the updates. I second that you're doing "god's work" bringing this car back. It makes me so sad when I see a classic that's been neglected.
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Back on the road! ...even if I still haven't washed the car...
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200881923495_backontheroad.jpg)
I ended up finding a donor axle assembly from a 65 sedan and swapped it out with the information I've found on this forum. Drove about 20 miles with the new setup today and everything seems to be fine. I figure I missed about 2 months of Summer but it's better late than never. Life is good! :)
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First trip downtown today in the car, it's really running great. I've logged about 70 miles since the rear axle swap, each mile increases my confidence in the car.
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cascadia/200882223234_82208downtown.jpg)
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OK Bob - no more trips around town until you take a razor blade and clear off the rest of that windshield!! Keep us updated on your progress.
Doug
1967 250SL (Early)
4-Speed, Orient Red, Leather
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I really like what you're doing, love the photos and I'm kind of fond of the green...
Not to be a stick in the mud but you may really want to consider that if it has that green on the outside it could very likely have mold spores, bacteria, fungus or who knows what on the interior surfaces and vents from sitting where it was for so long... the health implications from inhaling some of that stuff can be quite destructive so you may want to think about what you're coming into contact with and do a scrub down.
That aside great work!
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Thanks for your concern. Yes, my first priority with this car was gutting the interior to eliminate all traces of it's former whiskered occupants. Those little mice can get into some tiny places, so I put on my gloves and N95 mask, took everything out, vacuumed, sprayed some germ killing stuff and then just bolted the seats and seatbelts back in. All that's left to do are the gauges and the vents, although I've peered down those vents with a flashlight and they look empty.
At any rate, I think I was so anxious to sort the car out mechanically that once it was I hit the road immediately! I found that the car actually attracts quite a number of people pulling out their cell phone cameras wherever it's parked. I think that the car looks like such a heap that folks must wonder how the thing is roadworthy at all! I have to admit that it's become a huge source of amusement for me. I love the idea of a car that looks so bad cosmetically but is totally dialed in mechanically, it's just funny.
I think it will get a complete wash before Fall, but I will probably start prepping it for paint shortly after. The car was originally Papyrus White but it had been painted "appliance white" at some point and I'm not crazy about that. I'd almost rather keep its barn find appearance intact rather than having the "bad paint job" look.
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he wont be going anywhere unless he changes gear and puts in some gas.
quote:
Originally posted by dtuttle123
OK Bob - no more trips around town until you take a razor blade and clear off the rest of that windshield!! Keep us updated on your progress.
Doug
1967 250SL (Early)
4-Speed, Orient Red, Leather
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I love that you haven't washed it yet. Great story and I love the picture from the driver's perspective peering through the clean spot. Good stuff.
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Bob in Portland -
We want to see more pictures and your progress on the barn find and 'mossy green' Pagoda!! 8)
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Bob,
You are welcome to bring your SL to the Forest Grove Concours in the MBCA display class. We will have a few 'driver' Pagodas there.
Cheers,
Allen
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It looks like it just completed a 40 year long Rally.
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Nice find! Is that the original color- Moss Green Metallic?
Allen
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Here's an update. After nearly a year and about 500 miles on the car I decided it's time to paint it and get it looking good. I've been back and forth with color choices, from DB190 Graphite Gray, to DB226 Moss Green, and now......462 Tunis Beige, I think that's the direction I'm going to go. The interior is black, and I think with Tunis Beige I may have the hardtop painted black. Anyway, here's the pics, as you can see the car's pretty much stripped down.
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Bob,
This time I do have a good picture ;)
naj
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I like it! :)
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I'm glad this thread is awakened . I'm looking forward to the finished product. You did a great job of stripping it down . Keep the updates coming.... ::)
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Well, my painter came by to take a look at the car, he recommended that I pull the engine to really be able to do the job right. I agree, but whew, this is becoming a bigger job than I anticipated.
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You will be happier that the engine is out for the repaint. This was a decision that I also made. Better end result.
Looks like you "dropped" it vs "pulling" it.
I wonder if these werent originally installed this way... installed on the frt suspension and rolled under the body, then hooked up?
Bob
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Well, my painter came by to take a look at the car, he recommended that I pull the engine to really be able to do the job right. I agree, but whew, this is becoming a bigger job than I anticipated.
Well you're going the distance . It'll be worth it !! ;D
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Agree with Bob, Pull the engine out other wise you will regret it later on when the car looks great until you open the bonnet.
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....and here we are ready to go to the blasting shop, walnut shell is what they use. All of the aluminum body panels are going to another place to be dipped.
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Clever with the wheeled dolly - will they then "rotisserie" it at the shop?
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No, I'm going to leave the underside alone, it's in good condition. Although, I guess all that would need to be removed now is the rear axle and the gas tank, but still, this is a car I originally just wanted to have as 'just a beater'. Funny how things end up!
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It is obvious by the number of reads and replies that probably every member and guest is some what, if not totally interested in seeing the results of your hard work and seeing the documented pictures. It is such a classic story for all who are interested in old cars, and even more so for those of us lucky folks who have a pagoda. ;D Thanks for sharing this interesting saga.
Forrest
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What does DB190 'graphite grey' look like? I am thinking about painting my pagoda. I've been considering grey-beige metallic, but it may look too 'beige'; and DB 180 silver. I really like the metallic grey colors.
Keep us posted Bob. Thanks for sharing the details.
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Hi Allen, here are pics of DB190 Graphite Grey. Hauser's car is Grey Beige Metallic, DB728H, this is a beautiful color, a pic of his can be seen on the Technical Manual at http://www.sl113.org/wiki/DataCard/PaintCodes
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Back from the blaster's on its way to my painter. Blasting revealed a few bad spots, the front crossmember was pretty rusty at the seam, and the rear valance was bad throughout. Both parts require purchase of an inner and outer piece. I have an account with the MB dealer here in Portland, my cost on the crossmember was 150, rear valance was 470. Ouch. While I'm on the subject, blasting the body shell, jambs, trunk, soft top area and engine bay was 675, dipping the doors, hood, deck lid, soft top cover and hardtop was 920. This stuff adds up but I feel like if I've come this far I might as well do it right....
2nd picture is of a squeaky clean door after being dipped in something that is probably pretty nasty.
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Congratulations Bob,
Looks great!
Peronally, I think you are doing the right way, this is the kind of treatment our cars really deserve (if necessary) and not just only "new (expensive) paint, interior and chrome parts".
The only disadvantage is that you cannot earn any money with a restoration approach like this.
Expenses sum up like ... (hell) and the car is most likely less worth after finishing the project than you invested.
But this is what our hobby and love for these motor vehicles is all about.
Ask me how I know...
Achim
(who could never believe that a simple blown M180 head gasket runs into investments far beyond 5 K €€)
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I'm keeping a pretty close watch on expenses with this car and have created an excel spreadsheet to track them. My forecast is that I will be in the car for around 19-20K when it's done, including my original purchase price of 3K. My biggest expense will be the body work and paint at 9K. One way I've saved money is by buying 2 project pagodas recently. I swapped out parts like tail-lights and trim with pieces from mine that were not as good. When I was done I sold the cars for a small profit to buyers in Europe. One of the cars even came with new, unused interior sill trim pieces ($550 for the pair) and a new uninstalled top ($550), both of these items will go on my car.
All of the disassembly, mechanical, and re-assembly I've taken on myself, so that obviously saves some money as well. Wholesale accounts with suppliers also help with costs. The car should be back on the road by Spring, I'll update this thread with what my final cost was, hopefully I won't be too far off!
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Alright, 4 months later and it's back from the paint shop. I decided on DB190, Graphite Grey. The interior of the car was originally Caviar (black), this Tex color was unique in the fact that the texture of the material was smoother than what you'd normally find in other colors. I've spoken with my upholsterer at length about this anomaly. Caviar wasn't a true black, more of a dark gray. The closest material I could find from GAHH (my preferred supplier) was Charcoal #767, I didn't want a true black. This color is from the 70's era MB cars, but had the texture I was after. They did new seat covers with the correct basket weave inserts for the 230, new heat embossed door panels, etc. Carpet will be black square weave, soft top will be black. Stage 2 of the project begins!
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Very nice indeed, I think the color combination will suit the car well. Keep the photos coming.
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Here is original Caviar Tex.
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Bob -- Wow, your project is really coming along. It is very enjoyable watching the progress you are making and I know your car is going to be stunning once it all comes together.
Is Burback (there in Portland) involved in the mechanicals on this project? Per your earlier recommendation I visited with Mike this past spring. He's a good guy, and thank you for that kind suggestion.
My 280SL should start the process of coming out of its winter hibernation before too long and I suspect we'll drive it to Portland once the weather is nice.
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Great story.
What a satisfying restoration this will be!
Doug
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Engine is now back in. I put on the firewall pad, accelerator linkage, and brake line BEFORE :) I've installed a half dozen firewall pads and wow, what a pleasure to be able to stand in an empty engine bay to do it.
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Bob,
that looks really nice!
Two questions:
What did you use to paint the engine and transmission?
How did you roll the engine + axle around since the wheels want to go in every direction but never together in the same direction?
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The valve cover, head and transmission are bare metal, they were thoroughly degreased and then treated with a mild acid (aluminum wheel cleaner). The block is painted with Dupli-Color High Heat semi-gloss black, I skipped doing the front. I polished the valve cover a little bit with Auto-Sol metal polish to brighten it up. And yes, wheeling the assembly around was a 2 person job, it had a mind of its own. Lining up the 8 bolt holes for the subframe bushings were a challenge, having that lift helped a lot. I used a floor jack under the transmission to help with the angle and eventually lift it up to bolt its support plate in.
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Looks great Bob! What's lurking in the background? Is that a recent acquisition?
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Yes, that's a restored 1970 DB158 White-Grey 280SL with a top by Gernold, it will be on ebay in the next few days.
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Making progress....
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Making great progress, Bob! Beeeeautiful
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Very Good indeed, Bob!. Love the attention to detail. Are you going to paint the front areas of the air intake and the left side behind the grill screens black? You can still do it, as its just slapped on with a brush :)
Bernd
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oops....important...noticed your tach cable is backwards. The rubber piece visible near the battery support frame is normally in the dashboard!
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That's actually the other end of the speedo cable running up from the transmission, it's laying there out of the way until I get the dash instruments put back in. To answer your other question, I've painted d-side area behind the grill screens but haven't gotten around to doing the air intake side. I'll have to get into the mindset of a Sindelfingen factory worker from 45 years ago first ;)
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glad I was wrong on the tach/speedo cable! Lots of coverage on the website with originianl pics on the black paint. No great care was taken for any of that, so go to it. When I disassembled my car in 1991 I took videos of the original look as the car was completely unmodified back then, so I totally agree with everyone's coments on this.
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Started the car for the first time since taking it apart and miraculously it fired right up! Checked for leaks then went on a 3 mile shakedown drive. With all the new bushings and mounts it handles great and the drivetrain is feeling good. The end is in sight - the dash is all back together so now I'll just fit the doors and hood, lay some carpet, bolt in the new seats and this barn pagoda is back on the road!
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Well done !! ;D
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Bob, is that a yellow fog light bulb?
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Yes, the car came with those and they still work. I replaced the original euro lights with a NOS set I found on ebay, they're my favorite part of the car.
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I bet it looks pretty cool when they are on!
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Cool!!!!!! I am jealous now :) I am a ways behind your project
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The car was originally from France, I didn't think I could legally pull off using yellow headlight bulbs here, so these fogs are a good compromise :)
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If your are unhappy with the light output I highly recommend contacting Daniel Stern for an upgrade.
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Gorgeous... looking great. You may want to check ride height... it looks a little high ;)
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That's something I'm definitely keeping an eye on, as I install parts it's getting back to normal. I still have to put on the hood, doors, seats, carpet, softtop and cover, trunk lid, spare, etc. I figure that accounts for a lot of added weight.
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I was pulling your leg of course... I'm sure it will end up just fine once all the heavy stuff has been added...
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;D ...Goes to show how seriously I take advice from this group!
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Done! :)
I have hubcaps for it but never did connect with a good set of trim rings. Guess I'll drive it like this for awhile. The wheels are powdercoated and look pretty good. Tires are Vredestein Sprint Classics.
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I found the license plate on ebay, it's for a US Consulate in France, which is where the car originated. The last 3 digits of 113 made it a must have. I also found the kinder seat on ebay and had it color matched to the seats. Group member BABAK supplied a lot of odds and ends at reasonable prices. Those with sharp eyes will notice the Pagoda SL Group sticker in the windshield!
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Truly Remarkable... Can you do mine next?
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Gorgeous, absolutely gorgeous.
Cascadia, If that color is Light Grey (140H) we should put a picture in the Technical Manual since there is a spot for it. Or maybe it is Arabian Grey (124G) (that spot is taken).
I apologize if the color is actually somewhere in this string. I didn't check the whole thing.
What color is it?
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Very Very Nice!!! I would change two things though. I would opt for retractable seat belts and add a passenger side mirror.
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I thought I was going to go with Graphite Grey but I read an article in The Star about the Classic Centre's 1935 W23 130 Cabriolet and liked the color of the fenders. Something very classic and European about the color. I had my painter spray out some samples and we narrowed it down. Here's a pic of the inspiration behind it...
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Are you planning on taking it back to the barn from whence it came?
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Looks nice in the pics!
I have these rings for use on MB 14" wheels, specifically my 190 SL 14" driver wheels and tires. Sure, they're not exactly the same as the ones on my 113, but they certainly work well, especially for the money.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-TRIM-RINGS-BEAUTY-RIMS-BANDS-CHROME-WHEELS-14-/220599540005?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335cc1d925
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Extremely sharp car, Bob!
Very well done!
One little thing I mentioned which confuses me.
The "230 SL" trunk sign is located too high on the trunk lid. The correct location if the "Automatic" sign would have been below (this was an usual procedure for European delivery cars). But yours is a manual ...
Very strange...
I'd keep it as is now (unless you wanted to respray the trunk lid).
Powder coating of rims is fine but you could overspray the outside of the rim with body color, which is original.
In summary: Great car.
Congratulations at all!
Best,
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That was a mystery to me too. I've seen Euro cars with the Automatic designation underneath as well, but the data card for my car shows matching numbers on the manual transmission that's in the car. Just one of those anomalies you find sometimes I guess.
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Yes Bob,
That's funny. Perhaps one PO replaced the trunk lid (from another car) or re-drilled the holes from whatever weird reason...
On one of the first pics you posted (you were just hauling the white-green barn find) it is clearly visible that the car came to you already with the higher holes for the trunk sign.
One more thing I just realised when I enjoyed your fotos... ;)
The seat cushions of the seats should be exchanged left side - right side. The smooth area (bottoms) next to the perforated "basket weave" pipes has got an orientation for left and right side on each seat, which is original.
The side with the narrower bottoms goes towards the tunnel (in order to have some clearance towards the wooden tray) and the wider side towards the doors (there's enough free room).
I definitely like the color and the grain of your MB Tex. Very well done.
And one last thing...
How's the hardtop doing? Your car was originally white and you bought the car with a color matching hard top . Why not keeping (respraying) the HT in white (717) again in order to get a two-tone car? You could basically spray it every color you like since your car was delivered without hardtop when new. IMHO white will look brilliant with the grey car.
Please forgive me for my nitpicking comments; I did not intend to annoy or offend you... It's just that I've developed an aficionado's and enthusiast's view to the details of our cars with the decades ... and these minor updates will certainly do justice to your extremely fine car.
Just my humble 2 cents …
Achim
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Never any offense Achim, I appreciate everyones comments, good or bad, although my upholsterer is not going to be happy when he learns he has to take the seats apart again! :o
The hardtop was repainted along with the rest of the car, it's going to be my summer project putting it back together in time for Fall. I also noticed on the data card it appeared to be hardtop delete, although the base of the hardtop shows the same stamp as the hood, soft-top cover, and transmission support -- 4607. I wonder if the hardtop was left unpainted for some reason from new?
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As for the two-tone look, I really like the contrasting black that you have with the wheels. ;D
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I did end up buying some trim rings this weekend (thanks for the lead John!) and will paint the center cap areas black.
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Wow, congrats on a masterpiece, Bob! I'd say that worked out well ;D
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hey John,
Are those hubcaps a nice smooth con-cave like the OEM's? or they more angled/squarish? The cheap repo's I've seen don't have a nice smooth curve like the originals