Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: bcjm on April 25, 2008, 14:53:25
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71, 280SL. This rust is located on the driver(left) side, upper firewall area. K&K does not make patch for this section. The lower firewall is fine. What would be your recommendation to repair this rust area?
can't see the photo I attached... It is only 38K in size.
OK, here it is:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bcjm/2008425171651_driver_side_firewall.JPG
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Are you doing the work yourself? Cut it out and fabricate a patch panel out of 20 gauge cold rolled steel. It doesn't appear to be a difficult piece to make, in other words no compound curves or anything like that. After making the piece butt weld it in place. I can provide more details if you want. Also consult www.metalmeet.com for a ton of information on anything metalworking.
Dimitri
71 280SL
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Yes I plan to do it myself. I have a mig welder but I am not very good at welding. I might go to the metalmeet event next week. Thank you for the link.
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Is the piece you require shown here as 249-005 ?
http://www.classicsl.com/nieuwe_pagina_4.htm
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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No, it is the one right on top of the splash panel. I think it goes from left to right all the way. Looks like 238-015, not sure.
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quote:
Originally posted by bcjm
.... Looks like 238-015, not sure.
No, 238-015 is the rear outer tail panel. Indeed, it looks like you'll probably have to fabricate what you're looking for.
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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I think I've figured out the part you need! If you go to http://www.kkmfg.com/catalog.php and click on the "Body Panels" subsection under the 113 catalog, you'll see part no. 113-620-01-86 "Crossmember, Firewall" near the top of the diagram. This is the section that sits right above the firewall piece.
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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I believe you're looking for a "dust shield". I'm in the process of restoring my 250SL, and got it from Ray Paul at Bud's Benz. The key is to use the term "dust shield". Ray'll immediately know what you're referring to.
Prashanth Nandavanam
'67 250SL
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quote:
Originally posted by waqas
I think I've figured out the part you need! If you go to http://www.kkmfg.com/catalog.php and click on the "Body Panels" subsection under the 113 catalog, you'll see part no. 113-620-01-86 "Crossmember, Firewall" near the top of the diagram. This is the section that sits right above the firewall piece.
Waqas in Austin, Texas
Wagas, you are right. That is exactly I need but to replace the entire piece is too much. I think I will just patch the rust hole.
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I cut out the rust section and made a patch from a 18 gauge steel. I notice there is a drain (see screw driver) was clogged. That must be the reason why this area is rusted. Wondering where the water come in from?
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bcjm/200852682229_IMG_0001.JPG
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bcjm/200852682314_IMG_0002.JPG
BTW. How do you treat the inside area before I weld the area shut? Por-15? undercoating?
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quote:
Originally posted by bcjm
I cut out the rust section and made a patch from a 18 gauge steel. I notice there is a drain (see screw driver) was clogged. That must be the reason why this area is rusted. Wondering where the water come in from?
Nice work.
I've seen this style of drain on almost every box/frame section in this car (and my '66 250se/cp). I would strongly suggest you checkout the air intake area (which sits directly above the center of this frame section). Also, there are metal drain pipes that drain out through the lower firewall, via some short rubber hoses (can be seen from below the dash).
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I had corrosion in the exact same area, and I didn't notice the drain. I am not sure if it will allow the spray from the wheel to force water up into the cavity, more than function as a drain hole :?:
"BTW. How do you treat the inside area before I weld the area shut? Por-15? undercoating?"
I'm not sure if there is much point in treating before you weld. The coating will tend to burn. I sprayed plenty of anti coorosion treatment into the section after welding. The hole plugged by a grommet (seen in both your photos) is there for just that purpose, I believe.
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I was told today that I need to disconnect the "computer" before I do any welding on cars. Is it true? If it is, where is 280SL "computer" located? I know here is a ignition module located under the batter. Should I disconnect that as well?
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Whenever welding on any car it is good advice to unhook the battery completely. Also keep the ground connection as close to where you are welding as possible. I have had the fuel pump contacts weld cosed one time years ago welding on a modern car.I have never heard of disconnecting anything other than the battery for welding though. Just be very careful watching for fire hazards while welding. Check around very carefully after welding for things like smoldering rags that could ignite later.
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Finished.
Welded in and cleaned.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bcjm/2008528125724_IMG_0003.JPG
A layer of protection. I can't tell it has been repaired.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bcjm/2008528125944_IMG_0008-1.JPG
Glad I have a welder.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bcjm/200852813046_IMG_0006.JPG
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bcjm,
How did you treat the inner panel?
naj
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quote:
Originally posted by naj
bcjm,
How did you treat the inner panel?
naj
I am going to spray undercoating from the hole plugged by the grommet later.
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Hello bcjm,
I am glad you could do a permenant "weld in" repair. This is the most desirable choice.
I realize not everyone can do a professional undetectable "weld in" repair by themselves and must take temporary measures.
A good temporary fix which will slow down or stop the cancer, and allow you to use your car till better repairs can be made;
For the amatuer I would recomend that you mechanically clean the rust with a wire cup prush on a wheel first. Go to an autparts store and get some rust remover/preventer chemical and treat the area. Next go to your local hardware or department store and pick up some rustoleum damproof primer (rusty metal primer), and coat the area. Next coat with a finish rustoleum enamel. After all is dry cover the hole with whatever works, rivet, glue or screw it in place. A little paintable calk to seal, and repaint. A little good ruberized undercoat is optional. The Eastwood Co. also carries a complete line of these types of products.
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Hi that looks like a pretty good repair but personally I would have used TIG
Takes less work to clean up and dress
Always dissconect as battery before welding any thing on a vehicle
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quote:
Originally posted by spotweld2
Hi that looks like a pretty good repair but personally I would have used TIG
Takes less work to clean up and dress
Always dissconect as battery before welding any thing on a vehicle
What is the advantage of using TIG? I did have to clean the surface a lot using MIG.
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Hello friends, it's been a long time since last post but still alive and visiting the forum regularly.
These cars came with a very good undercoating protection for the time but marketers of after market undercoating applications usually ended up doing more harm than good sealing these drain holes during the application of their product. I remember a recognized brand "Ziebart"
I recomend every owner to take their cars to a lift and check all drain holes there are like ten.
when I bought my Pagoda I open the same you are talking about but in the right side and collet at least two quarts of water. This right drain is closer to the inner part of the car.
regards from DR.
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Hi All,
First post here but I thought I'd jump in to offer a suggestion regarding protection when welding a patch and restoring the integrity of a blind area. I would clean the interior of the cavity as good as possible and use a product like POR 15 to coat/encapsulate/protect the metal. However, near the weld seam I would coat with a weldable primer. http://www.mikeogara.net/tools/welding/bloxide-weldable-primer-quarts.html
These products serve at least two purposes. First is to preserve the integrity of the weld and second, leave a protective residue behind. As most of us know a fresh weld will start to oxidize almost immediately.
FWIW, most of my auto restoration experience has been on Porsche 911s. Have done some on a 1985 380SL (sold)....and now finally purchased what I've been wanting for quite some time; a 113 280 SL. Lots of work ahead....
Look forward to lots of discussion.