Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: vince mulvey on April 16, 2008, 05:00:47
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Hi all
Im after advice again. My engine bay could do wih tidying & cleaning. Every one elses look so clean & shiny on the pictures they post. Do you have any tips on how do do this particulaly the cyl head etc. without removing
thanks in advance
vince
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Vince,
I have access to a steam cleaner and that works wonders. It squirts out high pressure steam which slices through grease superbly. I don't know if lots of car wash bays in the UK have these, but if not, you could use high pressure hot water that they seem to have on hand. I'd start by spraying the parts you wish to clean with something like 'Gunk' or a compound that breaks down oil and grease; there are a lot of such products on the market. You will need to be judicious with the sprayer, since there will be some areas you won't wish to inject with high pressure water, such as the dissy, etc. I have a dissy cover so that offers some protection. I also covered certain electrical parts in plastic and taped them up to prevent damage. Because I was using steam, there is less water to go around, but the steam and I assume high pressure water is pretty powerful so take care where you spray it. (Steam transformed the underside of my car which was caked in crap).
I also saw this thread a few days ago which addresses exactly your topic. If you do a search you'll probably find more: http://index.php?topic=8565
Finally, cleaning and giving a gentle polish to the rocker cover makes things look really good. Removing it is a 10 minute job and polishing it would take only a short while. It's well worth doing. You could also remove the air cleaning housing easily and clean and spray that. It did my rad when it was out and that looks great. Renewing the hoses and wires is an easy fix also. Basically, I just clean and spray when I take bits off. My bay looks a lot better but, needless to say, absolutely nothing like some here (Michael Salemi's or thelews to name but two amazing examples!)
Take before and after shots to make yourself feel better!
JH
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Aha, caught you. One mention of getting a centrefold in a glossy coffee table book and you're tarting up your car!!! :D
Mine was a mess. So as James suggested, some Mucoff (bike cleaning stuff that I had to hand) and then some Gunk ultra. Small brushes, cut hands, a few rags and a gentle trickle from the hose. It's done wonders so far :oops:
It's quite satisfying but once started, I can see how people end up with a bay looking better than new (you know who you are!)...
James Lester
RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather
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quote:
Originally posted by jameshoward
(Steam transformed the underside of my car which was caked in crap).
How did you access the underside? Jack it up? Do it on the ground?
John
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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In prep for the book does anyone have a good technique for cleaning the inside of the valve stems? I do use loww gloss armour all on the valve stem covers. And for white walls does anyone use white shoe polish?
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Enjoy reading messages from the Obsessive Compulsive crowd as they try to act as though cleaning an engine way past "clean" is normal behavior :o)
They would be very upset if they peeked under my hood.
Richard M, NYC
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quote:
Originally posted by peterm
In prep for the book does anyone have a good technique for cleaning the inside of the valve stems? I do use loww gloss armour all on the valve stem covers. And for white walls does anyone use white shoe polish?
Do you happen to know if the inside of the exhaust tips should be black or polished? :D
James Lester
RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather
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Glad to see that someone has finally raised the question, "How to clean your engine?" I have often been called, 'ANAL',but as you will find after reading these tips, I'm really not.
Firstly, before entering the garage, scrub your hands thoroughly, apply a gentle hand cream, and slip on soft, white cotton work gloves (NO sequins-they scratch). Cover all foot wear with surgical slip-overs in order to minimize static electricity.
Secondly, with gloves on, gently pull the hood lever and open the hood (bonnet) slowly to minimize dust circulation.
Thirdly, with a large quantity of Q-tips (about 50)at your disposal, choose the area of the engine or engine compartment to be cleaned during this session. I would suggest an area no larger than 1.5 square inches.
Finally, after dipping your Q-tip in a solution of one part distilled water, one part vinegar, and one part Franklin's Engine Compartment Cleaner, work in a counter-clockwise 3mm stroke until you can see a slight darkening of the Q-tip tip. Immediately change Q-tips. You're on your way!!!!
(You may substitute olive oil for the FECC for a great salad dressing during your engine cleaning break)
Good Luck,
Doc Mancini
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John
Q-Tips or can I use a generic/own label cotton bud? ;)
James Lester
RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather
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Hi Tosh,
I've tried hundreds of brands. Q-Tips leave a cleaner luster without the accumulation of those ugly microscopic fibers!!
Glad you have a great sense of humor. Seriously, there are some good engine degreasers in spray that work well. I would do this outside and as someone mentioned, rent a steamer to finish the job.
John
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By the way Tosh, that must be a spectacular color combination: 906 with cognac. Any photos? I once owned two 906 cars. One had black interior, the other parchment. The 906/parchment was beautiful. Great color, 906.
John
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quote:
Originally posted by Tosh
Do you happen to know if the inside of the exhaust tips should be black or polished? :D James Lester
RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather
Tannish/greyish, although most are black :twisted:
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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quote:
Originally posted by thelews
quote:
Originally posted by Tosh
Do you happen to know if the inside of the exhaust tips should be black or polished? :D James Lester
RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather
Tannish/greyish, although most are black :twisted:
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
True, but for that "concours look" the rolled lip of the exhaust tips should be polished!
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) dirty tips.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Mike%20Hughes/200841819550_dirty%20tips.jpg)
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Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) cleaner tips.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Mike%20Hughes/2008418195537_cleaner%20tips.jpg)
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- Mike Hughes -ô¿ô-
1966 230SL Auto P/S
Havanna Brown (408)
Light Beige (181)
Cream M-B Tex (121)
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hughes
True, but for that "concours look" the rolled lip of the exhaust tips should be polished!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2233/2099291070_3c0169a849.jpg)
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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quote:
How did you access the underside? Jack it up? Do it on the ground?
John
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
I covered myself in goretex and got underneath her. It would have been better to put her on stands, but...I was impatient.
BTW, I used a steam cleaner designed for tanks.
JH
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quote:
Originally posted by vince mulvey
Hi all
Im after advice again. My engine bay could do wih tidying & cleaning. Every one elses look so clean & shiny on the pictures they post. Do you have any tips on how do do this particulaly the cyl head etc. without removing
thanks in advance
vince
Not mine. I drive it everyday, life is to short to drive a Toyota. Heck they still look good even with dirt and water spots :D
Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"
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I see you have the chrome gas cap. My 280SL fortunately also has one but unfortunately the one key I have for this car will not lock or unlock it. Was there supposed to be another key for this purpose or was my gas cap changed by a previous owner?
I can't count the number of times that I forgot this beautiful cap at the gas station. I usually realize it after having driven 30 or so miles from the gas station.
Dimitri
quote:
Originally posted by thelews
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hughes
True, but for that "concours look" the rolled lip of the exhaust tips should be polished!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2233/2099291070_3c0169a849.jpg)
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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quote:
Originally posted by dseretakis
... I can't count the number of times that I forgot this beautiful cap at the gas station. I usually realize it after having driven 30 or so miles from the gas station.
Dimitri
Hmmm. I think I may just have to tail you to your next fill-up! I have a non-113 MB locking cap that is brushed aluminum color instead of chrome. But it does lock! Want to trade?
James
63 230SL
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I have forgotten this cap at a gas station at least 3-4 times. Every time, I race back panicking. I think, one time, a day or so elapsed and the gas station found it and stored it in their office. The worse is when I have a passenger riding with me and I have to waste their time driving to and fro the gas station.
I think I'll pass on your offer! Hey if I can get the thing to lock then everytime I remove it I can make a habit of leaving the keys attached. That way I'll never forget it again.
Dimitri
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
quote:
Originally posted by dseretakis
... I can't count the number of times that I forgot this beautiful cap at the gas station. I usually realize it after having driven 30 or so miles from the gas station.
Dimitri
Hmmm. I think I may just have to tail you to your next fill-up! I have a non-113 MB locking cap that is brushed aluminum color instead of chrome. But it does lock! Want to trade?
James
63 230SL
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Steam cleaning seems to have disapeared because of OSHA laws and stricter enforcment of the Clean Water Act of 1970. Isn't that what clarifers are for?
I talked to a carwash that said they were going to use steam but ended up using a pressure washer and left 65% of the crude around the crossmember and transmission; on my back for three hours "not good for my medical condition" But I did a better job than they did. In fact, once I sell my small car lift I think I am going to invest in a small steam machine. My driveway needs it so do my other cars.
If careful you can do an outstanding job because the grease melts off. It just takes some sense and a careful touch.
Bob Geco
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Dimitri:
The locking gas cap comes with its own key that does not match the other car keys. When ordered from MB, the gas cap lock can be re-keyed to match one of the other car keys.
Because of the "lock history" of my car, I carry 5 keys for access to all the locks. I look and sound like a building maintenance man with a ring full of keys.
Richard "Jingle", NYC
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On my 1966 230SL the gas cap and trunk locks share the same key. I keep all three keys on the same key ring and have to remove the key set from the ignition to unlock the gas cap. I usually leave my keys in the gas cap lock while refueling so it is impossible to drive away without doing something with the gas cap first - like put it back on the filler, lock it and remove the keys!
- Mike Hughes -ô¿ô-
1966 230SL Auto P/S
Havanna Brown (408)
Light Beige (181)
Cream M-B Tex (121)
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I'm also missing the key for the trunk so I can't keep anything valuable in there. So it seems like the trunk and gas cap key are one and the same?
Dimitri
71 280SL
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hughes
On my 1966 230SL the gas cap and trunk locks share the same key. I keep all three keys on the same key ring and have to remove the key set from the ignition to unlock the gas cap. I usually leave my keys in the gas cap lock while refueling so it is impossible to drive away without doing something with the gas cap first - like put it back on the filler, lock it and remove the keys!
- Mike Hughes -ô¿ô-
1966 230SL Auto P/S
Havanna Brown (408)
Light Beige (181)
Cream M-B Tex (121)
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On a 230SL, yes. Someone with proper knowledge of lateer production 280SLs should chime in on what might be correct for your car. One hears about single keys - were these found on U.S. or Euro models only?
- Mike Hughes -ô¿ô-
1966 230SL Auto P/S
Havanna Brown (408)
Light Beige (181)
Cream M-B Tex (121)
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A gas cap key can match the trunk key if the gas cap was originally supplied with the car or a later added gas cap was re-keyed to match the trunk key.
Dimitri:
If you have the Data Card for your car, the trunk key code is on the card and can be made by MB or another locksmith. (Our Suuplier Source database has a place that will do a key from the code for abouit $15).
If the Data Card is missing or the trunk lock was changed, a locksmith can make new key by "feeling" the lock. The Previous Owner of my car did this for about for about $100 (so now I jingle around with 5 keys).
Richard M, "Mr. Keys"
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i don't have matching keys but will probably have the set done one day if only so that it looks nice when the key is in the ignition. In the meantime I have the gas filler key on one of those key chains that some wear on their belts. This is secured in the trunk on one of those nylon screws that hold the rear light on. It is a proceedure that means that I never risk leaving the cap off. Have been there.
paulr
1970 280 SL
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I like the set-up that I have on my other Mercedes: The gas filler cap is inside of a flap that locks when the doors are locked. With the doors unlocked, I can just push the flap open by hand. I also like the feature, that by pressing the "option" button on the remote, the sunroof will close, any open windows will close, the doors lock and the alarm is set. And it doesn't beep to wake up the cat, just the lights flash. Now, there is a good set-up!
'69 280SL,Signal Red,Automatic,retired engineer, West-Seattle,WA (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/theengineer/2007118132030_SmallStar.gif)
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John (The Lews), I want one like yours (gas cap). Where can I get one? I had no idea how well it set's off the rest of the rear... like an exclamation point.
On cleaning the engine bay... gee, other than a little road dust, is there any reason for grease and oil/fuel residue to be on the engine and in the engine bay anyway? I had my Chevy 327 rebuilt once.. brand-spankin' new looking it was --- for about 2 weeks. I kept trying to make it look like it did when it was 1st installed... I decided I needed to spend my spare time on more productive things and now only make sure the fuel line's, valve cover's, and intake manifold aren't leaking too much.... and that it still runs like it was brand spankin' new.
Of course, I do spend a few minutes now and then wiping off the dust & oil off in my 250SL's engine compartment. I tend to do this chore while procrastinating about something else under the hood that I should be doing while I'm just standing there... It makes me feel like I've actually accomplished something when I've accomplished nothing or next to nothing.
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
The 6% Club - Best of the Best
'02 SL500 Sport
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Longtooth,
A dealer will sell you a gas cap like that one for around $230. The best price I have seen lately is $180 from a private seller. (gone)
Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe