Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: vince mulvey on March 22, 2008, 09:43:19
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hello all
i am not a mechanic so need a little help.
My car runs a little roughly when revved. It appears to me like it is running on 5 cylinders
i am changing the plugs as one of them appears to be sooty. I am fitting NGK BP6ES plugs. Can someone tell me what the gap should be
thank you in advance
vince
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Hi Vince. I am not sure what the recommended gap is but I use BP5ES right out of the box -- and my car is happy. It looks like the box gap is .032" (I think).
James
63 230SL
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Vince,
As James mentioned, you can use the NGK BP5ES (hotter) or BP6ES (cooler) plugs. Standard gap would be 0.7mm.
Regards,
Jaco van der Walt
1964 w113 230sl
1975 w114 230.6
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Watch out for plugs being gapped correctly out of the box. It takes very little to upset the gap. Just handling them rough during installation can change the gap a little. When gapping also be careful and precise. You can get a false reading by pulling the gapping tool and springing the electrode open. You should have a nice smooth fit of the gapping tool. Also eyeball the electrode to make sure it is parallel. I think, if you have a strong ignition with the red coil and good wires you can push the gap to .035. Just keep those resistor plugs out.And always put a little anti seize compound on the threads. You can get some seizure with the aluminum head and steel plug. I always use silicon dielectric compound on the terminal connections at the plug, cap, and coil wires. In fact I use it on all electrical connections. Sorry to make this so complicated. I only wish I paid as much attention to my life as I did this car.
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Graphic66, What brand of anti-seize?
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Also Graphic, when you measure the gap, is it the moment the tool touches the sides of the electrode? -- or when its firmly wedged. And to open or close gap, what is your method of choice???
PS I used permatext anti-seize. They sell little ketchup-size containers at the auto place. Don't need very much, I'm told.
James
63 230SL
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I use the wire plug gapping tool, a small circular tool with wires you pull between the electrodes to check the gap. I just go for a smooth fit that is not forced and just touches both electrodes. The tool has places on it to put over the electrode and pry it closer or further apart. You can visually check for the electrode being parallel and some time you may need pliers to angle it a little, this is a pretty rare occurance. I just use the silver Permatex anti seize for aluminum. All this attention is probably not really necessary, but it is easy and doesn't cost anything. You can probably eyeball the gap and never notice the difference. However, I think the anti seize is very much a good idea. I use it on many places, lug bolts, brake bleeder screws, anywhere aluminum is involved, anywhere near a battery, and on most places you bolt together. Just little dab while do ya. Up here in our Salt state of NY, I coat all the brake line fittings on my daily driver and spray muscle grease on the rest of the brake and exposed metal fuel lines under my cars. It really works to stop the corrosion.