Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Ben on March 07, 2008, 06:31:38
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Hello everyone, this is just a general knowledge posting, hopefully it will help someone in the future.
I tried the dealer over here for front wheel bearings, not in stock, and they wanted €40 each.
The specialist motor factor didn't have them either but wanted €25 each. He was kind enough to give me the dimension though so I ordered them from a local bearing supplier, total cost € 18 each !
The seal is a standard size too !
The outer/smaller bearing is reference # KLM11949/10
and the inner/larger bearing is reference # KLM60748/10
These numbers are not related to the MB part numbers or the usual QH/Moprod/ normal Motor factor numbers but are fairly straight forward to the bearing shops.
I believe from looking through various listings in parts books that the above also fit all W111/W112/W108/W109/W114/W115 and early W107's also but you would be best to check that out for accuracy yourself.
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Yes, yes. Many bearings, seals, hoses, switches, etc. are standard or subbed out. But, the purists will say--------!
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..... that's what I use.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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When I was changing out my front suspension bushings I went to the local auto parts store to see if they could find a set of wheel bearings by matching the numbers, they had them in stock.
The NAPA part numbers are:
BR2 for the outer
BR6 for the inner
Bearing number 2 and bearing number 6, this would indicate to me that these are a very common part for American RWD cars, I'm not sure which ones though.
Al Lieffring
66 230SL
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o.k.... so I'm replacing my front wheel bearings.... a local shop is pressing the races in. Question to the gear-heads among you, since I don't have a ready dial indicator and set-up to measure the end play (spec is 0.01 - 0.02 mm), what is the other way to properly adjust the end play. When I used to do this on VW's and Porsches, the method was tighten to X torque, then back off 1/2 a turn... drive a bit (around the block a couple of times), then repeat after hub & spindle cools back to ambiant temperature. The check on whether the procedure was correct or not (for instance, if threads were cross threaded then the initial torque wouldn't represent the intended force on the bearings) was tested by checking the washer for ability to move it with a 6" screw-driver ... if it could barely be moved (but could be), then it was right... if it was not hard to move, then the end-play was too loose, and if it was immovable with the 6" sscrew-driver, then it was too tight. The final check was to yank back and forth on the wheel (at top and bottom after wheel with tire was remounted) and if an eensy-teensy wiggle could be detected then it was right, if none, then it was too tight, if more than an eensy-teensy amount of wiggle, then too loose.
Is there some similar set of rules for the 113's that applies to get end-play within spec's without a dial indicator?.
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport
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quote:
Originally posted by Longtooth
The final check was to yank back and forth on the wheel (at top and bottom after wheel with tire was remounted) and if an eensy-teensy wiggle could be detected then it was right, if none, then it was too tight, if more than an eensy-teensy amount of wiggle, then too loose.
Is there some similar set of rules for the 113's that applies to get end-play within spec's without a dial indicator?.
I believe, but don't hold me to it, that on the 113 the manual calls for a smidge, rather than an eensy-teensy. :twisted:
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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I tried the non-dial indicator way once on my 220D. I bought a dial indicator a few years later and checked the play. One wheel was fine the other was too tight and the grease had stiffened up to prove it. I would definitely go the dial indicator way. Harbor freight has an el cheapo one on sale for $7 right now. The magnetic stand is not all that much more. They also have one with an attached arm and clamp which might also work. If you want a better one check out www.longislandindicator.com I got a nice German made one for $100. Manufacturer was Kafer.
Dimitri
quote:
Originally posted by Longtooth
o.k.... so I'm replacing my front wheel bearings.... a local shop is pressing the races in. Question to the gear-heads among you, since I don't have a ready dial indicator and set-up to measure the end play (spec is 0.01 - 0.02 mm), what is the other way to properly adjust the end play. When I used to do this on VW's and Porsches, the method was tighten to X torque, then back off 1/2 a turn... drive a bit (around the block a couple of times), then repeat after hub & spindle cools back to ambiant temperature. The check on whether the procedure was correct or not (for instance, if threads were cross threaded then the initial torque wouldn't represent the intended force on the bearings) was tested by checking the washer for ability to move it with a 6" screw-driver ... if it could barely be moved (but could be), then it was right... if it was not hard to move, then the end-play was too loose, and if it was immovable with the 6" sscrew-driver, then it was too tight. The final check was to yank back and forth on the wheel (at top and bottom after wheel with tire was remounted) and if an eensy-teensy wiggle could be detected then it was right, if none, then it was too tight, if more than an eensy-teensy amount of wiggle, then too loose.
Is there some similar set of rules for the 113's that applies to get end-play within spec's without a dial indicator?.
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport
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Demitri, thanks... Using your advice I broke down and bought a 0.01 mm (0.0005") resolution dial indicator and magnetic base stand... turned out the dial indicator for that resolution was electronic... nice since it switches from mm to inch, rezero's, goes from absolute values to relative values, etc. with press of a button. I'd adjusted by "feel" using the "thrust washer barely able to turn by hand" method before I received the dial indicator. I was too tight on both wheels by an approximately 0.05 mm using the "barely able to turn thrust washer by hand" technique. About 1/10th of a turn of the nut would increase endplay at least 0.02-0.03 mm... so I had to make adjustments in ~1/20th of a turn of the nut to get it right (Spec is 0.01 to 0.02 mm end play).
Thrust washer "barely able to move by hand" actually means moves by hand with medium to great difficulty, but that's a lot less difficulty than "barely able to move" it by hand. Tendency for most will be to have the bearings over loaded (fully compressed and over stressed) when using the "barely able to move thrust washer by hand" method. The spec of 0.5 mils to 1 mil is a very tight spec.
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
The 6% Club - Best of the Best
'02 SL500 Sport