Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: n/a on September 22, 2003, 12:40:34
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Getting to the season where some heat is pleasant.
Heater valve works when manually moved through hole in motorbay/firewall, but is not connected to the dash control.
I know there is suppose to be a cable on the slide control, and that I have to access through radio and/or speaker opening. In advance of this task, it would be helpful to know the matter of connection between the Heim Jointed heater valve rod and the cable from the slide control.
Any tips or pics?
Nervious Newbie `68 280sl
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Brian,
The heater valve lever is connected with a rod to the right heater flap.It is operated by the bottom right lever.
In my view, the operating cables hardly ever break.
When the valve gets stuck, people force this lever and something has to 'give'. Usually, the connection on the heater flap which operates the valve breaks.
To check this, you will have to remove the air scoop at the bottom of the windshield, and the big cold air flap which you see next.
Then there is a firbeglass mesh air filter which comes out next and you will see the two hot air flaps. The right one should be connected to the heater valve.
Hope this helps
naj
'Kloines Scheisserle'
65 230SL
68 280SL
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The valve on the heater core on my car is frozen. The previous owner then put in a manual valve in the water hose going to the heater core. In the fall, I open it up. When I don't want warm air, I just close the flap that controls the amount of air. In the spring, I close it again. One of these days I will get around to replacing the heater core of somehow replacing the valve but, for now, this manual system works pretty well.
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Kloines, I think I'm with you... the heater valve is connected to the flap on the heater box. :)
However, you say the right side heater flap, but do you mean the left (drivers) side heater flap (LHD car)? I guess I'll find out once I remove the air "scoop" assembly.
Does one of the lower slide controls on the dash then operate the heater flap, coincidentally operating the heater valve. What is the connection type between the slide cable and the heater flap?
And if I read the Haynes manual correctly, then the other lower slide control simply opens another flap (passenger side) independently of the heater valve.
Am I close?
PS: Cees, a friend of mine (different make/model) does the same thing as you. Since the valve works, and I'm a glutten for punishment, I'ld like to attempt the simply remedy the faulty connection (seems no money or purchase, just time, is required)
Nervious Newbie `68 280sl
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Brian,
On my car the heater core valve was frozen. Someone prior to the current owner, that would be me, must have forced the heater control. It seems that the weak link to the system is the linkage ball on the heater flap. I had to replace the heater flap. It is an expensive part, I believe it cost me about $150 a few years ago. I rempoved everything from underneath the dash, including the heater core. It does not sound as if your heater core valve is frozen so I would recommend that he job is done through the hood cowl. Once the cowl and the fiberglass filter are removed you should have good access to the flaps and the linkage to the heater core valve. I found my nilgae just sitting there. Hopefully you will be as lucky. I also found that the heater core valve may need to be adjusted when the linkage is replaced. I tried just lining it up by eye but, it was not effective. I eventually hooked the intake side of the heater core to a garden hose and removed the exit hose from the heater core. This allowed me to adjust the valve so that no water was passing through the heater core. It made a big difference.
Best of luck,
Ted
'69 280SL w/ fully actuated heater controls
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Sorry Brian,
I got my lefts and rights mixed up again.
The lower LEFT lever controls the valve via left hot air flap, while the lower RIGHT lever controls only the right hot air flap.
The two hot air cables have rounded ends which fit on pins on the heater flaps
naj
'Kloines Scheisserle'
65 230SL
68 280SL
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Thank you, folks. Removed cowl vent and etc as suggested. Cable end had come loose... missing "C-clip".
All is well. :D
Not so Nervious (anymore) Newbie `68 280sl