Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: bpossel on October 29, 2007, 07:16:11
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July 26, 2008
Carpet & seats installed.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mercedes280sl
Please check back for add'l photos as the project continues...
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Thank you Bob, for sharing .
Kemal
280 SL Manual 69
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Hello Bob,
Make sure you have plenty of Zip Lock bags, and labels. Go out and buy about a hundred pipe cleaners, you'll find plenty of uses for these, wiring parts together and hardware to parts etc.
Take plenty of digital photos,
Don't rely on memory when your putting the car back together in a year.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Hi Joe,
Thanks! Yes, I purchased a "ton" of plastic baggies. The ones that you can write on...
This project is somewhat overwhelming, but if I take each section of the car as a "mini" project, and keep everything very organized, it is doable.
Will keep all updated as I progress....
Thanks again.
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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One trick I picked up in a high end shop was to use a wire or tie wraps and "leash" the key to he steering column.
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10/31/07 - Updated with add'l pics on Google Album.
B.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Bob,
Did you put in the Dynamat? If so do it make a noticable difference for heat and sound? Will you be adding more after the repaint?
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois
1970 280SL Light Ivory
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Hi Frank,
This summer when I recarpeted, I scraped out all of the mat'l on the floor. I wanted to ensure there wasnt any rust underneath.
I then installed the new dynamat material. I didnt re-install the other padding material (multi-colored, grey wool type material) that was installed in-between the old floor mat'l and my old carpet. In summary, I cant really say that it lowered the noise and/or the heat. I am sure that it helps...
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Hi Frank,
This summer when I recarpeted, I scraped out all of the mat'l on the floor. I wanted to ensure there wasnt any rust underneath.
I then installed the new dynamat material. I didnt re-install the other padding material (multi-colored, grey wool type material) that was installed in-between the old floor mat'l and my old carpet. In summary, I cant really say that it lowered the noise and/or the heat. I am sure that it helps...
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
Bob
If you are trying to attain sound deadening / attenuation you should consider the "Dynapad" over the "Dynamat"
The "Dynapad' is a multi layer foam material without the tar like adhesive backing.
It's weight holds it in place.
I installed it in my C6 Corvette ( which I traded for my 280SL ) in the cargo area to quiet an aftermarket exhaust.
It does work and in the C6 instance was covered with the trunk mat.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/C6031806066-1.jpg)
Thinking of doing the same thing in the 280SL, installing under the rubber mat and glueing to the inner side of the cardboard side partitions.
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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Hi Ed,
I like that material! No sticky gooo.
Where did you buy it?
Thanks,
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by RBYCC
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Hi Frank,
This summer when I recarpeted, I scraped out all of the mat'l on the floor. I wanted to ensure there wasnt any rust underneath.
I then installed the new dynamat material. I didnt re-install the other padding material (multi-colored, grey wool type material) that was installed in-between the old floor mat'l and my old carpet. In summary, I cant really say that it lowered the noise and/or the heat. I am sure that it helps...
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
Bob
If you are trying to attain sound deadening / attenuation you should consider the "Dynapad" over the "Dynamat"
The "Dynapad' is a multi layer foam material without the tar like adhesive backing.
It's weight holds it in place.
I installed it in my C6 Corvette ( which I traded for my 280SL ) in the cargo area to quiet an aftermarket exhaust.
It does work and in the C6 instance was covered with the trunk mat.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/C6031806066-1.jpg)
Thinking of doing the same thing in the 280SL, installing under the rubber mat and glueing to the inner side of the cardboard side partitions.
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Hi Ed,
I like that material! No sticky gooo.
Where did you buy it?
Thanks,
Bob
Hi Bob
Usually sold at car audio shops.
Crutchfield has it in their catalogue, but if I recall I paid around $100.00 for the sheet.
No gooey stuff, you can cut it to the shape of the mat and lay it over the carpet with the mat on top.
Works for sound, decent for heat !
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-r48iv2PVHvG/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?search=Dynamat+DynaPad&i=15421100
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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bob,
I looking to get my car painted as well. I wanted to strip it down myself and let the painters do their job just like you. Can you tell us how much the painting is going to cost you? What type of paint job(paint?)did you go with.
thanks
1969 280sl
Signal Red
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My painter would only do an initial estimate, then a final quote once it is stripped down to the bare metal. The inital estimate is 7500.
The painter likes to use 3M paint (multiple base coats, then multiple clear coats with wet sanding in-between). I am still unsure if 3M is the way to go or the Glasurit paint?
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by mrfatboy
bob,
I looking to get my car painted as well. I wanted to strip it down myself and let the painters do their job just like you. Can you tell us how much the painting is going to cost you? What type of paint job(paint?)did you go with.
thanks
1969 280sl
Signal Red
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
My painter would only do an initial estimate, then a final quote once it is stripped down to the bare metal. The inital estimate is 7500.
The painter likes to use 3M paint (multiple base coats, then multiple clear coats with wet sanding in-between). I am still unsure if 3M is the way to go or the Glasurit paint?
Bob
Bob, it's all in the prep--pre-spray, and post. You've seen my paint, it's Glasurit. But I'm sure the same level of preparation and finishing (that's all the time and money) with 3M will yield similar results. If your painter is familiar with, and comfortable with 3M, don't ask him to change brands on you.
Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
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quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
My painter would only do an initial estimate, then a final quote once it is stripped down to the bare metal. The inital estimate is 7500.
The painter likes to use 3M paint (multiple base coats, then multiple clear coats with wet sanding in-between). I am still unsure if 3M is the way to go or the Glasurit paint?
Bob
Bob
$7500.00 + appears to be a starting point for a Glasurit paint job done by a certified Mercedes paint and collision center.
$7500.00 + is what I was quoted to do my 300CE.
This included removing all parts from the car, prepping and using the new Glasurit system.
The "+" part of the quote would be for any metal repair, and new parts such as trim, gaskets, rubber, and emblems. !
Seems in line.
3M system as he proposes should give an excellent result...remember Merc did not use a modern system like Glasurit on the W113's
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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Thanks Mike & Ed!
More pics added....
http://picasaweb.google.com/mercedes280sl/Resto
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Very nice pics, Bob. Keep them coming. I am vicariously repainting my car with your wallet! I did a "not quite as thorough" strip when I had my car painted in 1998. It was a much lower end repaint but I did remove most of the chrome myself...Was actually kind of fun. If I ever do it the right way -- your story will be inspirational. I'd jump at the $7500 part but guarantee mine would at least triple that with what they'd uncover.
Oh and are you planning to leave off the extra door-side molding? I would...
James
63 230SL
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Hi James,
Thank you! So far it has been fun! I need to keep telling myself that this is a hobby and take my time... Besides, when this is all finished, I'll be wondering what I can do next... maybe just drive the car and have some other type of fun?
The non std side moldings were the 1st thing I removed. They have bothered me since I purchased the car. Now they are gone and soon all traces of that ugly strip will be completely faded away...
I may change the resto pics and try to resort in "most recent" first....
Regards,
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
Very nice pics, Bob. Keep them coming. I am vicariously repainting my car with your wallet! I did a "not quite as thorough" strip when I had my car painted in 1998. It was a much lower end repaint but I did remove most of the chrome myself...Was actually kind of fun. If I ever do it the right way -- your story will be inspirational. I'd jump at the $7500 part but guarantee mine would at least triple that with what they'd uncover.
Oh and are you planning to leave off the extra door-side molding? I would...
James
63 230SL
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
Oh and are you planning to leave off the extra door-side molding? I would...
James
63 230SL
It pains me to see it was actually screwed into the sheet metal by the PO [:0]
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
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More pics... doors striped today...
http://picasaweb.google.com/mercedes280sl/Resto
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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('[:0]') Wow, thats a job & a half you're doing, in your spare time!
I would love to be able to do all that one day ! (' :) ')
Kemal
280 SL Manual 69
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
More pics... doors striped today...
http://picasaweb.google.com/mercedes280sl/Resto
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Hey Bob,
The project looks like its coming along. Great work! I don't know about you but I find taking pics helps to slow me down just enough to mark, label and bag things properly. Without that I would be like a 6 year old on Christmas and have stuff all over the place.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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These are wonderful pics. I am getting ready for a repaint, but did not have anything as extensive in mind.
This is inspiring me to go in this direction. Please keep the pics coming!!
John
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Quite an ambitious project! I'm in the process of interviewing body shops to repaint my pagoda. After talking with a few of them I have a pretty good understanding of what it entails to do what you are doing -- my hat is definitely off to you -- please keep us updated!
Gary
1970 280 sl silver/red
1992 NSX
1998 GS400
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Bob... these pics are very instructional... invaluable to the forum. I'll be removing my engine soon... Just wondering, seems like I've read several recommendations to just remove the engine/trans from below.. I haven't really explored it yet, but wondering why you chose the out-the-top method? I'm sure you have good reason, and can save me from taking the wrong step?
Thanks
Phil
230SL, 59 Jag MK IX, 65 Stingray Roadster, 89 Carrera Cabriolet
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Hello Bob,
Good progress, you look like a pro! Expect two to three more time putting thing back.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Thanks Joe!
If it were'nt for you and many others I would not have the nerve to do what I am doing... You have been great help over the past 4 years! Each mini project has helped me to build up to this major one.
I know that the reassembly will take a long time. I want to take it slow and ensure it is done right! Each piece & part cleaned and/or replaced before installation.
While car shell is at the painters, I will have the head redone, the heater core rebuilt, and engine pieces cad plated or powder coated.
Regards,
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by ja17
Hello Bob,
Good progress, you look like a pro! Expect two to three more time putting thing back.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Hi Phil,
I chose the traditional, out the top method because it seemed easier to me. A local MB shop replaced Dennis Zanone's engine in his former 113. They removed the engine by dropping the front suspension and then removed the engine. This was the method they preffered.
I am not an expert on this and maybe Joe or others can provide advice for you. Good Luck!
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by pauldridge
Bob... these pics are very instructional... invaluable to the forum. I'll be removing my engine soon... Just wondering, seems like I've read several recommendations to just remove the engine/trans from below.. I haven't really explored it yet, but wondering why you chose the out-the-top method? I'm sure you have good reason, and can save me from taking the wrong step?
Thanks
Phil
230SL, 59 Jag MK IX, 65 Stingray Roadster, 89 Carrera Cabriolet
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Hello Bob,
That's pretty much what I'm looking at under the dash on my 220SL.
I've taken everything associated to the heating and ventilation system out.
The images are very clear in my head to what it looks like under there. The heater core on yours, lloks as if it has been removed before and repaired. The sheet metal that seals the vent box to the dash enclosure for the heater core looks as if was hacked and bent up.
What happened there?
Sorry I cant take a picture of mine as I've removed all the metal under there.
Looks to be a bog job with an even bigger reward when it's all done.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel, new driveshaft ready to be installed.
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Hi Walter,
I agree... somebody, many years ago... was doing some work under there... I found part of an old heater valve disk. I recognized it because I replaced my heater valve a year ago, without core removal.
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by waltklatt
Hello Bob,
That's pretty much what I'm looking at under the dash on my 220SL.
I've taken everything associated to the heating and ventilation system out.
The images are very clear in my head to what it looks like under there. The heater core on yours, lloks as if it has been removed before and repaired. The sheet metal that seals the vent box to the dash enclosure for the heater core looks as if was hacked and bent up.
What happened there?
Sorry I cant take a picture of mine as I've removed all the metal under there.
Looks to be a bog job with an even bigger reward when it's all done.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel, new driveshaft ready to be installed.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Hello,
I've tried engine removal just about every way.
Most of the pros prefere to remove the engine without the suspension. Removal of the engine, trhnsmission and suspension involves additional labor for disconnecting brakes, shocks sub frame mounts, sway bar etc. and as mentioned, dealing with a car that has no front wheels can be a chore.
Removal of the engine and transmission as a unit is easiest. The engine and transmission must come out at about a 45 degree angle so if you have limited overhead clearance you may have difficulties.
On the otherhand, if you are planning on doing suspension or subframe work, removal of the engine, transmission and the suspension also could be a good choice.
If I am planning on doing an engine tear down, I remove the head while the engine is in the car. It comes off fairly easily if you have no AC and it makes everything much easier to unhook for removing the block and transmission assembly. I install the engine and transmission without the head, finish the hook ups and install the head.
Depending on what work you have planned and what working conditions permit, you will need to choose the best method for yourself.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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PPPP Possel's Perfect Pagoda Paint Bob, Is it going to dunked and rotated in the paint to get all nooks and crannys?
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Hello Glennard!
Dont think it will ever be perfect! If I can get close to what Mike S.'s car looks like, then I'll be happy! I did remove all of the body plugs and will have them spray inside the "boxes" with rust kill. In the end, I want a very nice weekend driver, not a garage queen.
B.
quote:
Originally posted by glennard
PPPP Possel's Perfect Pagoda Paint Bob, Is it going to dunked and rotated in the paint to get all nooks and crannys?
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Originally posted by ja17
Hello Bob,
Expect two to three more time putting thing back.
....
Good one, Joe!
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Hello Bob,
A scarry amount of work here! Imagine if you had to pay someone to do all the labor that you are doing! Great job and documentation!
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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If only Detroit could do as well. :) :)
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Hi Joe,
Thanks! I have logged close to 200 hours[:p], so far, just my time (free...). Putting all back together again will most likely take longer... Of course, I am a shade tree mech :oops: . The experts like Gernold, that have done these many times, may take less time, but still.... lots of hours!
So one can see that 80-100k+ to restore one of these (excluding purchase price) is not too far off[:0].
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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I'm brand new to SL113.org and the forums, this is my first post so hopefully I'm doing this right.
Over the past weekend I bought my first MB a 1970 280 SL a car I've thought about buying for years but never was in a position to do until recently.
My car is in what I'm guessing would be considered good, maybe very good condition, it's ivory with a congac interior both paint and interior are new from the previous owner, shows very well but there are plenty of things I'm hoping to do as I begin my journey down this road. I will probably start with a rebuild of the engine which I have some concerns about .
Bob I'm totally impressed with what you are doing with your car, I'm blown away by all you've done so far and love all the photos, it's so helpful for somebody like me just getting started. Thank You!! on behalf of those of us getting started.
I could probably ask you a 10,000 questions but just one quick one for now. I thought I saw a note in one of your posts that you took the engine out and were shipping it to Metric in CA for rebuild. Would you not consider a good local shop to do the work or is Metric that good and reasonable price wise even with shipping costs?
Thanks for all the great info you are posting it's a real treasure to somebody like me who is just getting started.
Mark 1970 280 SL
Saylorsburg, Pa
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Hi Mark,
Welcome and congrats on your new 113!
When I started with my resto, I had not planned on redoing my engine. But as nice as the body will be when finished, I couldnt see putting my leaky engine back in, then taking it out again in a few years. There is a very good shop, here in Memphis, that I considered, but they were close in cost to what Metric is charging for a complete rebuild. There are several other members on this site that have used Metric and were very happy. MB engines is all those guys do. Check out their website! Call and talk to Mike Ellis. Family run, great people.
Cost for shipping there and back (TN-CA-TN) is 400. Metric received my engine yesterday and have started their magic. I will post more pics this week, so please keep checking back. Sometimes I will just add pics to the website and not update this post. Seems like it is getting too long.
If you have any other questions, please ask. Everyone on this site has had some experience or another with every aspect of these great machines.
Good Luck and again, welcome!
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by Mark280SL
I'm brand new to SL113.org and the forums, this is my first post so hopefully I'm doing this right.
Over the past weekend I bought my first MB a 1970 280 SL a car I've thought about buying for years but never was in a position to do until recently.
My car is in what I'm guessing would be considered good, maybe very good condition, it's ivory with a congac interior both paint and interior are new from the previous owner, shows very well but there are plenty of things I'm hoping to do as I begin my journey down this road. I will probably start with a rebuild of the engine which I have some concerns about .
Bob I'm totally impressed with what you are doing with your car, I'm blown away by all you've done so far and love all the photos, it's so helpful for somebody like me just getting started. Thank You!! on behalf of those of us getting started.
I could probably ask you a 10,000 questions but just one quick one for now. I thought I saw a note in one of your posts that you took the engine out and were shipping it to Metric in CA for rebuild. Would you not consider a good local shop to do the work or is Metric that good and reasonable price wise even with shipping costs?
Thanks for all the great info you are posting it's a real treasure to somebody like me who is just getting started.
Mark 1970 280 SL
Saylorsburg, Pa
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Hi Mark. I'd like to second Bob's welcome. I went through the same drill that Bob did a couple of years ago but I did not take it to quite the level that Bob is taking it. I got pretty close though. I too selected Metric and am pleased that I did. I am in central PA (about 2 hours from you) so feel free to contact me directly if I can assist you in your efforts.
Mike
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Thanks Bob and Mike,
I'm trying to decide about the engine now. I worked on cars a lot 30 years ago in my early 20's and pulled and rebuilt an engine or two from scratch. I'm 52 now and I gave up fixing cars long ago. I'm a corporate type these days and rusty with car stuff but I know it would come back to me so I'm reasonably sure I could take on pulling the engine and putting it back in when it came back from rebuild. I guess I just need to crunch the numbers to see where I should best spend cash as opposed to my own efforts.
Thanks guys I'm sure I will be taking you up on your offer for info and I'll be looking forward to seeing more pics on Bob's website as you progress, it was a real kick to see a car like mine going through the process, really great stuff.
Thank you both
Mark
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Mark,
Welcome to the Group! Here's a thread you might want to read:
http://index.php?topic=8002
Rodd
Pagoda Technical Manual
please contibute: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php
1966 230SL
2006 C230 Sport Sedan
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Mark280SL, You say you want to pull the engine. Why? Oil leaks? Low compression? Poor starting? Needs detailing? Before pulling the engine, find a very good reason-after valve adjustment, compression check, tuneup, etc. etc.------
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Well, first off -- hey Mark, welcome. Second, I have a number of things I'd like to offer. But I'd rather this thread get its own home -- since The Possel Pagoda Chronicles (PPC) is such a unique and important thread for all of us...
James
63 230SL
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Bob, how was your engine performing prior to removal? Were there any telltale signs that something was wrong?
1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.
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The only sign was that it wanted to creep towards the red when in stopped traffic in the Memphis heat of summer. I was running the engine with 70 percent dis water w/Water Wetter. This kept the temp down. I knew my car sat for a number of years, so sort of not a surprise.
Joe tuned the IP pump this summer and commented how smooth my engine ran. I guess it shows how much these engines can stand and keep running, even if things are not perfect on the inside. I will just be happy to know that the internals are clean and clear when I get it back and that it will be like new again. No worries except to keep the bugs off and change the fluids...
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by hauser
Bob, how was your engine performing prior to removal? Were there any telltale signs that something was wrong?
1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
Well, first off -- hey Mark, welcome. Second, I have a number of things I'd like to offer. But I'd rather this thread get its own home -- since The Possel Pagoda Chronicles (PPC) is such a unique and important thread for all of us...
James
63 230SL
I'll move Mark's engine pull to 'Mark's engine pull' under General Discussion.
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EVERYBODY: Read Bob's latest post-contribution about the engine. This is precisely why we pay the experts for their knowledge. If you want somebody who does brakes at 10AM, exhaust at 2PM working on an engine rebuild on a wooden bench in the back of his shop, fine. He might have simply cleaned up the water damage without a second thought. If you want it done right, go to the experts.
While the extent of damage to my cylinder head was limited to a minor crack welded up at no additional charge, one can see that Bob wasn't so lucky--but VERY lucky he decided to send the engine to Mike Elias at Metric who uncovered the issues.
Bob, you now have "religion" as they say!
Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
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quote:
Originally posted by mdsalemi
EVERYBODY: Read Bob's latest post-contribution about the engine. This is precisely why we pay the experts for their knowledge. If you want somebody who does brakes at 10AM, exhaust at 2PM working on an engine rebuild on a wooden bench in the back of his shop, fine. He might have simply cleaned up the water damage without a second thought. If you want it done right, go to the experts.
I might suggest also www.blackforestllc.com as engine "experts." They just did a beautiful job rebuilding my original 921 engine and have extensive knowledge of the 113. Very anal shop. No affiliation, just a good experience. This is the shop where Jim Villers and I are hoping to organize a tech gathering in July as we just did with the 190 SL Group.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/2214769151_e8f31834bf.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2003/2261912708_c7be99f595.jpg)
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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quote:
I might suggest also www.blackforestllc.com as engine "experts." They just did a beautiful job rebuilding my original 921 engine and have extensive knowledge of the 113. Very anal shop. No affiliation, just a good experience. This is the shop where Jim Villers and I are hoping to organize a tech gathering in July as we just did with the 190 SL Group.
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
Great information, John. I swear by Metric because that's my experience; similarly, there's Noel's in Florida with arguably as good a reputation, and now Black Forest. This is all great information for our group here. What is best for everyone is a set of experts to choose from.
Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
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Hi Bob
My car underwent a major restoration recently. I can confirm that the bodyshop did NOT section the car whilst painting, and I would not see a reason why they would ?
After body & panel repairs, whole car was done in primer, followed by underbody, etc. Very happy with end result, will upload more pictures once interior is finished.
Rgds
Frank
1966 230SL Black/Auto/RHD
1996 E36 AMG
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Hey Bob,
Hopefully they are going to paint the engine bay body colour and not boot colour.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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Hi Bob,
After reading your reply, you had me worried![:0]
I called and confirmed that they are not painting the bay boot color. It will be body color. This was already known, but something I know that I never discussed with them. I have been more focused on other specifics with them, ie not to paint the door guides, not to paint the ground spots, etc....
Thanks for the thought... :)
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by hands_aus
Hey Bob,
Hopefully they are going to paint the engine bay body colour and not boot colour.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Hi Bob
If they are just using primer, they may be sectioning off the areas that have been bare sanded and repaired and then they primer that section to keep the bare metal from oxidizing. If they have a climate controlled factory or very low natural humidity then they could leave areas of bare metal, but fine rusting can occur overnight with even a small amount of humidity and then you need to sand again. If they are doing the final paint in sections, then this wouldn't apply and I would agree that it seems unusal to do it like that.
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Wow Bob. How exciting! I don't know how you can stand the wait... I had to sweat it out for a week and half while my hubcaps were being painted -- and it about drove me crazy! (and the car was sitting in my garage the whole time!! [:0])
James
63 230SL
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Bob, It looks just fantastic, inside and out, you must be so excited to get it back home. Did you travel to Metric to inspect the ongoing progress and take the photos or did they send you photo updates?
Your documentation and photos of your project are so interesting and helpful to all of us, Thank You!
Mark
1970 280 SL Ivory/Cognac
-
Hi Mark, thanks for the compliment! No I didnt travel to Metric, but really wish I could have. Mike Ellis at Metric was great to work with. I did have to "bug" him several times to ensure that he was taking some pictures of my engine work as it progressed. I suggested to Mike that Metric ought to consider including a picture and signed autograph of the engineer that worked on each specific engine. A picture of the completed engine with the engineer and autograph. This would be similar to what AMG includes with their remastered MBs. I think this adds to the unique history of our cars as they age...
Regards, Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob,
I have been following along with your restoration since my car is also in a similar state. Really not wanting to be one of those picky armchair guys I wasn't going to mention this but thought since you were being so correct on the rest of it I should speak up.
Are you aware that the underside of the car was originally just rubber undercoat for the vast majority of it and the body was sprayed and the overspray was simply allowed allowed to drift under the car?
The net effect is a white rubber underside with paint at the rockers in the wheelwells(complete) and down the firewall.
If you click on the Mercedes for sale and go down to the blue sold 1971 280SL(listed for 105k) and click on that you will see some great undercar pictures. They did make mention somewhere about the transmission plate being the wrong color in the photos.
http://www.motoringinvestments.com/MainPage.htm
-
Thanks Patrick. The way that you describe the process is the first time that it all makes sense.... that the underside "center", transmission tunnel; driveshaft area, etc. is (or was, in my case) just left in a primer color.
While I am trying to stay original, there are are some changes that I decided to make.... One is color. As you all know, I changed my color from light beige, to light ivory. While not the color on my data card, it will still be a nice color (and original MB color code of the era) and since I had my entire body stripped to the metal, I think it has been done "right" and hopefully the color change wont effect sell price some day. Ed Cave did a color change and his car sold for a nice price :) .
The other change that I decided to make, was to go ahead and undercoat and paint the entire underside. While not original, I think this makes the end result a higher quality job. MB cars have always been known for their quality (except the late 90's, early 2000's models when price point was their goal), so some of these earlier deficiencies, ie not painting the entire underside are somewhat surprising.
Anyway, I do appreciate your comments, as well as I hope others will chime in on what they think and know about how these cars were made and what improvements may be good and/or not good to make...
Happy Easter!
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by Shvegel
Bob,
I have been following along with your restoration since my car is also in a similar state. Really not wanting to be one of those picky armchair guys I wasn't going to mention this but thought since you were being so correct on the rest of it I should speak up.
Are you aware that the underside of the car was originally just rubber undercoat for the vast majority of it and the body was sprayed and the overspray was simply allowed allowed to drift under the car?
The net effect is a white rubber underside with paint at the rockers in the wheelwells(complete) and down the firewall.
If you click on the Mercedes for sale and go down to the blue sold 1971 280SL(listed for 105k) and click on that you will see some great undercar pictures. They did make mention somewhere about the transmission plate being the wrong color in the photos.
http://www.motoringinvestments.com/MainPage.htm
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob,
Actually I've been meaning to ask you if you took alot of dissasembly pictures of your car? My car started out whole and I sent it off to Minnesota to a friend for what I thought was going to be a fairly intense body restore. Well, It started fairly well and now the front and rear suspension,driveline,dash, top and all the interior are out of the car, it currently has no fenders or quarter panels on it and I didn't take it apart.
I was wondering if you might be willing to share some of your photos?
Regards,
Pat Price
-
Hello Bob,
Very impressive work on the engine. I am sure you are getting anxious now! I am sure you surpassed your "nice driver" goal a long time ago!
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
-
Hi Pat,
I guess you are looking for add'l photos beyond those posted on my website (address above)? Please confirm.
I sort of "cherry picked" the ones that I posted, but do have a few more. What specific areas are you looking for?
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by Shvegel
Bob,
Actually I've been meaning to ask you if you took alot of dissasembly pictures of your car? My car started out whole and I sent it off to Minnesota to a friend for what I thought was going to be a fairly intense body restore. Well, It started fairly well and now the front and rear suspension,driveline,dash, top and all the interior are out of the car, it currently has no fenders or quarter panels on it and I didn't take it apart.
I was wondering if you might be willing to share some of your photos?
Regards,
Pat Price
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Thanks Joe! It is an addictive adventure... Its hard to know when to quit. I keep saying... "well, its all apart now.... now's the time to do it..? so the repair and expenses continue...
I hope that I will be able to drive my car when completed and not worry about it...
Thanks for all of your help!
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by ja17
Hello Bob,
Very impressive work on the engine. I am sure you are getting anxious now! I am sure you surpassed your "nice driver" goal a long time ago!
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob,
I noticed that they painted over the serial number that is stamped into the inner wheel well. On my car this was masked off showing bare metal. Probably done to easily spot and not have paint fill in the numbers. My engine compartment was never repainted by previous owners. Sure is looking good Bob.
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois
1970 280SL Light Ivory
-
Hi Bob,
I was looking at your latest photos of your interior components, in particular the seats and I have a question.
When I saw the underside and the horsehair on yours it reminded me of my own seats which I assume have the original components because when I sit on them I sometimes feel like I'm sitting on a stack of newspapers. Not very comfortable and I seem to slide around on them on hard turns.
Are you going to replace the horsehair with original materials or go another route with something newer and possibly more comfortable\better? Or are you touching that at all? I'm back and forth about mine, if I start a project to improve the seats I'm thinking I might want to try and go the original pads one better because I'm guessing (and just guessing) that a newer solution could prove to be much more comfortable and feel like I'm with the car on turns and not sliding around on the seat.
Are you going to work on the seats other then the new color?
Mark
1970 280 SL Ivory/Cognac
-
Hello Mark,
The previous owner had new horse hair pads installed, along with the current interior, prior to me purchsing the car 4 years ago. Looks like he only replaced the seat pads, not the backs...
When the auto upholstery shop takes these seats apart, we'll see if new horse hair pads are needed on the backs. As we know... not really horse hair is used any longer... but they still call it that...
I did talk to the auto upholstery guy at length about exactly what you mention... needing more side support on the seat bottoms and backs. He said that with the new "skins" there really isnt much add'l padding that they can do. But they can add "some" add'l padding... It will be a trial and error type of fitting as they install the new skins. One thing they dont want to do is to over stretch the skins and cause any stress.
I'll keep you posted as we more forward on this. I will also try and snap some pics of the seats, naked, and as they add some padding...
Bob :)
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Hi Bob,
Wow, absolutely beautiful. Great job. I have one observation. I have two low mileage 280SL's and both have never had the engines out. Both engine blocks are red. I have seen others with red but never black, unless they've been rebuilt. I would assume red is correct. Any thoughts?.... from others?
John
-
quote:
Originally posted by john.mancini
.../..Both engine blocks are red. I have seen others with red but never black, unless they've been rebuilt. I would assume red is correct
Black is correct, red is wrong- On the outside that is. Innards of block are indeed red (glyptol)
/Hans in Sweden
-
Hi John,
Thanks! This discussion came up a while back and the discussion was that black was correct and red was the base color (glyptol) as mentioned.
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by john.mancini
Hi Bob,
Wow, absolutely beautiful. Great job. I have one observation. I have two low mileage 280SL's and both have never had the engines out. Both engine blocks are red. I have seen others with red but never black, unless they've been rebuilt. I would assume red is correct. Any thoughts?.... from others?
John
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Is that true that the M130 engine block was painted with glyptol both inside and out from the factory? I know that glyptol is good for sealing the casting pores inside to allow for better oil return but had no idea that any MFG was using it. Originally, I believe it was developed for electric motor windings. Are there any other benefits to using it for engines?
Wallace Wheeler
Texas
'68 280 SE 111
-
Hi, Bob,
quote:
After installing the new rear strut bolt (my old one was bent!), the tool really helped to align the rear axle. The 280mm length of the center piece seemd a bit too long? I ended up using a level to mark a line from the pivot pin bolt "punch mark" down to the bottom of the bolt. The end of the tool pointer then touched this mark and all lined up nicely!
Do you have a picture of the tool actually in use?
naj
-
Bob, you're doing an excellent job along with documenting the entire process. Very impressive! I try to check in on your gallery once a week to see the progress.
Keep up the good work!!
-
Thanks Hauser!
Naj, I was going to take a pic of the tool in use, but it was hard to hold the tool in place. I will try to still take a pic for the group.
Bob
-
Great work and documentation :) , and a great help in my struggle to assemble mine again.
Where did you source the black air tube to the corner air vents? (Shown in the last picture in your May 25/24th-insert) I have as yet not found a source for these..
-
Hello Anfinn,
Thanks! My black air tubes and heater/air pices are original to my car. Did you try local MB dealer or SLS?
Good Luck, Bob
quote:
Originally posted by Anfinn
Great work and documentation :) , and a great help in my struggle to assemble mine again.
Where did you source the black air tube to the corner air vents? (Shown in the last picture in your May 25/24th-insert) I have as yet not found a source for these..
-
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Thanks Hauser!
Naj, I was going to take a pic of the tool in use, but it was hard to hold the tool in place. I will try to still take a pic for the group.
Bob
Thanks,
Just gathering info for my axle change...
naj
-
Bob,
You really did have a busy weekend. I really love all the great documentation you are doing on what will truly be a fantastic job.
You remain an inspiration to all of us.
Jim :)
-
Hi Bob!
It's looking great, really great.
I was looking at the photos of your rocker covers and screws that hold them. Are they #8 1/2 inch flathead or panhead screws? looks like yours are panhead but I can't tell for sure from the photo, mine seem to have a universal assortment from the wonderful world of #8 and #4 fasteners and I'd like to do the correct thing and replace them all with the same type and correct ones. Also I noticed you did not paint the screws black, is that because they were that way originally or did you just not get around to painting them yet?
Thanks for sharing all this with us, I always look forward to seeing the photos and reading your comments about your progress. I know everybody else does too.
-
Hi Mark,
They are panhead, as that what was on my car originally. I replaced them with new stainless ones. I will paint them later after I get more of my car together. Havent done any work in the past week. Have been tied up at work. Hopefully will start up again in a week or so.....
Bob
==========================================
quote:
Originally posted by Mark280SL
Hi Bob!
It's looking great, really great.
I was looking at the photos of your rocker covers and screws that hold them. Are they #8 1/2 inch flathead or panhead screws? looks like yours are panhead but I can't tell for sure from the photo, mine seem to have a universal assortment from the wonderful world of #8 and #4 fasteners and I'd like to do the correct thing and replace them all with the same type and correct ones. Also I noticed you did not paint the screws black, is that because they were that way originally or did you just not get around to painting them yet?
Thanks for sharing all this with us, I always look forward to seeing the photos and reading your comments about your progress. I know everybody else does too.
-
Bob: In looking thru the photo albums, I see you have a number of parts laid out with the notation "powder coated". These parts include the overflow tank which is soldered brass. Did this stand up to the heat of the powder coat oven?
It looks like you're going to end up with the worlds finest pagoda.
Gus
68 280sl
-
Hi Gus, thanks!
Powder coating the overflow tank was a concern, but mine came out fine in the end. The guy doing the powder coat did a trial run in his oven first to see how it would hold up. It did, so he then completed it.
Regards, Bob :)
=================================
quote:
Originally posted by 69280sl
Bob: In looking thru the photo albums, I see you have a number of parts laid out with the notation "powder coated". These parts include the overflow tank which is soldered brass. Did this stand up to the heat of the powder coat oven?
It looks like you're going to end up with the worlds finest pagoda.
Gus
68 280sl
-
Nice job Bob, double check the top washers on your front shocks, I believe you have them intalled upside down.
-
nice one bob im doing the same amount of work in london on 1965 230 sl 180 silver and black interior 1800 hrs so far every nut and bolt replated and new interior new everything 14000euros just on paint that after i stripped her back to nothing then she was put in a hydrosonic water tank to get everything including old underseal off she has all the original panels stillwas 29 yrs in a garage cover in wood doors and wood undeneath hence very little rust the wood absorbed the moisture
-
Bob,
Thanks again for the wonderful documentation of a truly great build. I'm sure there are a lot of people who are following your build and cheering you on :D . As one of your followers said it may end up as "The worlds greatest Pagoda".
Jim "Pagodaless" Stern
-
Bob,
Thanks for your latest posting. Even though I am now Pagodaless (it's on it's way to the new owner) I want to stay in the loop to see your car to completion. Again, many thanks for your old interior it was in incredible shape.
Keep up the great work a lot of us are inspired by your dedication.
Jim Stern
-
A work of art---
-
Hey, Could you post some pictures of the floor from underneath? I'm just getting new floors put in my car. Just want to see what mine should look like :P
Thanks
-
Bob,
The engine looks beautiful. I now have something for inspiration.
On your injector pump, how did you refinish the barometric compensator and the coolant inlet for the WRD?
-
Bob,
I showed your progress to the fellows at www.blackforestllc.com Great people and very well versed on the 113. Locally we're planning a late fall one day tech session there. They were quite impressed with the quality of your work and your timetable. Thought you might appreciate hearing kudos from professionals.
-
Hi Jon,
I don't have a lift, so the pics dont really turn out. As soon as the car is driveable, I'll get it on a lift for some pics.
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by 717-113
Hey, Could you post some pictures of the floor from underneath? I'm just getting new floors put in my car. Just want to see what mine should look like :P
Thanks
-
Hell Wallace,
Thanks! I cheated! I sent my ip pump to Pacific Fuel Injection in California. They did a complete overhaul...
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by wwheeler
Bob,
The engine looks beautiful. I now have something for inspiration.
On your injector pump, how did you refinish the barometric compensator and the coolant inlet for the WRD?
-
Hi John,
Great!!! Thanks for the cudos! It helps me to keep going... Sometimes its a bit of a chore... but it will be nice when I am done and am able to drive it again! I cant wait!!!
Thanks again,
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by thelews
Bob,
I showed your progress to the fellows at www.blackforestllc.com Great people and very well versed on the 113. Locally we're planning a late fall one day tech session there. They were quite impressed with the quality of your work and your timetable. Thought you might appreciate hearing kudos from professionals.
-
:D Bob,
The project is looking better every day. It looks like you will have the car done while there is good enough weather to enjoy it. Now that the heart of the car is back in you have to be excited. Great work!
Jim Stern
-
Thanks Jim!
You're right! I am very excited that the engine is back home again. Like many restorations... one step forward and on step back... Last Sunday, the guy who painted my car came over to do a bit of "touch-up" painting around the area where the leaf springs attach (this is where he had the front of the rottiserie attached when the car was being painted). So I dropped the leaf springs so he could do a good job painting. On Monday morning, I decided it was time to clean the garage floor, so I pushed my car out onto the driveway (forgot leaf springs were still detached). When I was finished, I pulled my car back in, pulling from the edge of the trunk bay (note: car is very light w/o engine and easy to move). Anyway, as I had to pull hard to get the wheels to move over the 2 inch height difference between my driveway and garage floor, it really seemed harder than it should have been. As I then looked at the front, I just about had a cow. My entire front suspension was forward, front wheels were touching the front fenders. It shows how these cars really float on the subframe mounts! I jacked up the front and it was very easy to push the suspension back and attach the leaf springs. I lowered the car and it seemed to sit a bit high. I looked at the subframe mounts (only 2 years old...), and they looked ok. I thought that once the engine is in that it would lower the front end...
Monday afternoon, the guy who painted my car came over and helped me to put the engine back in. He was a great help since he has removed and reset engines many times... Once the engine was in, the body never settled down. It looks like its flying away. So, had to order new subframe kits and install next week. Started to disconnect many parts that I installed already....
Oh well!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by James Stern
:D Bob,
The project is looking better every day. It looks like you will have the car done while there is good enough weather to enjoy it. Now that the heart of the car is back in you have to be excited. Great work!
Jim Stern
-
Happy 4th Bob. The engine looks beautiful back in the car again! you've really made a lot of progress lately. It will be back on the road before you know it. Your project is very inspirational.
I noticed when you pulled your engine you took the transmission out with it at the same time. Is that the recommended\best way to do it (as a unit) even if someone was not going to do work on the trans also? I'm guessing you reinstalled them together as a unit too?
-
Hi Mark,
Happy 4th of July also!
Thanks! Have been off this week and spending a lot of hrs on the car. Anxious to get it done! Yes, I removed and re-installed with the trans connected. It is a bit harder to re-install this way, but I think easier in the long run. I have heard, read it done both ways. Maybe Joe, Dr. Benz, or others that have done this more often can chime in?
Have a nice holiday!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by Mark280SL
Happy 4th Bob. The engine looks beautiful back in the car again! you've really made a lot of progress lately. It will be back on the road before you know it. Your project is very inspirational.
I noticed when you pulled your engine you took the transmission out with it at the same time. Is that the recommended\best way to do it (as a unit) even if someone was not going to do work on the trans also? I'm guessing you reinstalled them together as a unit too?
-
Thanks Bob, After trying several different search phrases I just came across an old post by Joe Alexander where he says he prefers to remove them together, sounds like it's difficult to unbolt the transmission and just easier to pull them together.
Thank you Bob and Joe for all your great wisdom.
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Hi Mark,
Happy 4th of July also!
Thanks! Have been off this week and spending a lot of hrs on the car. Anxious to get it done! Yes, I removed and re-installed with the trans connected. It is a bit harder to re-install this way, but I think easier in the long run. I have heard, read it done both ways. Maybe Joe, Dr. Benz, or others that have done this more often can chime in?
Have a nice holiday!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by Mark280SL
Happy 4th Bob. The engine looks beautiful back in the car again! you've really made a lot of progress lately. It will be back on the road before you know it. Your project is very inspirational.
I noticed when you pulled your engine you took the transmission out with it at the same time. Is that the recommended\best way to do it (as a unit) even if someone was not going to do work on the trans also? I'm guessing you reinstalled them together as a unit too?
-
Bob,
I just read about the sub-frame assembly disaster. I'm so sorry that something like this happened[:0]. You are so meticulous on every step that this must have been a late night scenario. How long will it take to get the new sub-frame assemblies back to you? I read in your message to Mark that you had taken a little time off and that's why you have made such great progress. I hope other people beside your paint guy are helping you. I don't know where you find the time to restore the car, document the process, answer emails and Oh by the way work to afford all this?
Anyway keep it up but try to have something left over so that when this is all done you will be able to enjoy the car :D .
Jim Stern
-
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
.../... the car and it seemed to sit a bit high. I looked at the subframe mounts (only 2 years old...), and they looked ok. I thought that once the engine is in that it would lower the front end.../...Once the engine was in, the body never settled down. It looks like its flying away. So, had to order new subframe kits.../...
Perhaps discussed earlier in your long thread here, but you are aware that the subframe parts for the sedans/coupés are higher than the ones for the W113? So be sure to get repair kit Number 113 586 00 33, these include the metal plates which cover the top opening in the car's frame. For W111 and W108 the kit No is 108 330 02 75 (new number for old 108 586 00 33)
.
-
Thanks Hans !!!
I will check with my supplier on Monday to ensure the correct part number has been ordered. Thanks again!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by mbzse
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
.../... the car and it seemed to sit a bit high. I looked at the subframe mounts (only 2 years old...), and they looked ok. I thought that once the engine is in that it would lower the front end.../...Once the engine was in, the body never settled down. It looks like its flying away. So, had to order new subframe kits.../...
Perhaps discussed earlier in your long thread here, but you are aware that the subframe parts for the sedans/coupés are higher than the ones for the W113? So be sure to get repair kit Number 113 586 00 33, these include the metal plates which cover the top opening in the car's frame. For W111 and W108 the kit No is 108 330 02 75 (new number for old 108 586 00 33)
.
-
Bob,
How do you like the color?
Kevin
-
Bob,
What kind of surface prep and treatment did you do to the exhaust manifolds?
-
Hi Kevin,
So far, i really like it!!!
I do still like the 113's in red, dark blue, black, silver .... but happy that I went with the light ivory color.
I am hoping within the next 2 weeks to have it back on the road again. That's the goal....
Thanks,
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by KevinC
Bob,
How do you like the color?
Kevin
-
Hi 280SEguy,
I sent my manifolds to M&R Performance Coating and had them ceramic coated. Was tired of looking at the rust! I am sure there are other folks that do this, but that's who I used...
http://www.amr-coatings.com/index.html
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by 280SE Guy
Bob,
What kind of surface prep and treatment did you do to the exhaust manifolds?
-
When you're finished, it would be interesting to see a rough tally on how many hours and dollars you have invested. I've really enjoyed following your odyssey, by the way.
-
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
I sent my manifolds to M&R Performance Coating and had them ceramic coated. Was tired of looking at the rust! I am sure there are other folks that do this, but that's who I used...
http://www.amr-coatings.com/index.html
Bob :)
Did you get the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated from the inside as well?
What is the correct manifold colour for our cars?
-
Speaking of coatings/plating.... your Cad plating looks beautiful in the photos Bob. Would you recommend the vendor?
-
To date, ~500 hrs actual labor on car. This does not include reading, trips to the hardware store, ordering parts, looking at pics, manuals, etc... Also, I had replaced many parts over the past 4 years on my car, so many of the parts came off easy. I dealt with the dirt, grime, grease and rust before I started in late October last year with a full resto. I think to restore a 113 could easily be 1500 hrs +++.
Dollars... too much!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by Paddy_Crow
When you're finished, it would be interesting to see a rough tally on how many hours and dollars you have invested. I've really enjoyed following your odyssey, by the way.
-
Hi Waqas,
Yes, inside was coated also. I think the correct color was a darker grey. I just did a silver color....
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by waqas
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
I sent my manifolds to M&R Performance Coating and had them ceramic coated. Was tired of looking at the rust! I am sure there are other folks that do this, but that's who I used...
http://www.amr-coatings.com/index.html
Bob :)
Did you get the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated from the inside as well?
What is the correct manifold colour for our cars?
-
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
I am hoping within the next 2 weeks to have it back on the road again. That's the goal.
Bob,
Will you be driving it much? Will it make long trips like before? Maybe you & your project could make an appearance at the Tom's Chili Cookoff and Pagoda Knowledge Exchange in Virginia this fall?!?!
-
Hi Rodd,
As we all know, these cars are much happier when driven. I do plan on driving her a lot, but will be more selective where I drive her. I do plan on the trip next year to Joe's. Not sure about Tom's this fall? ... would be a fun trip...
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by rwmastel
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
I am hoping within the next 2 weeks to have it back on the road again. That's the goal.
Bob,
Will you be driving it much? Will it make long trips like before? Maybe you & your project could make an appearance at the Tom's Chili Cookoff and Pagoda Knowledge Exchange in Virginia this fall?!?!
-
Bob,
It's really getting close now. The car looks fabulous :D . I notice that your posts are coming quicker now. If it's not premature; congratulations. I'm sure that all of us will be both sad and happy as your journey ends. What an epic build and thanks for sharing it with all of us.
Jim S.
-
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Hi Waqas,
Yes, inside was coated also. I think the correct color was a darker grey. I just did a silver color....
Bob :)
Thanks Bob!
By the way, I absolutely love your new colour combination-- very classy! Can't wait to see it in person next year at Joe's.
-
Hi Bob:
I also would like to thank you for your invaluable postings and pictures during your "odyssey".
Couple of questions:
I like your "clean" look, but what did you do to the bumpers, replace or plug and rechrome.
The soft top cover pad looks to be seamed at the corners? Did you find some difficulty fitting a single piece?
Thanks again for all of your time for all of our benefit.
Rick
-
Hi Jim,
Thanks! I still may be working on her for a while. Had to send my throttle body off to California to have new throttle rod bushes installed. Also my side kick pannels dont fit right, so will need to order more material and redo them....
Hopefully by mid August, it WILL be back on the road...
Thanks again,
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by James Stern
Bob,
It's really getting close now. The car looks fabulous :D . I notice that your posts are coming quicker now. If it's not premature; congratulations. I'm sure that all of us will be both sad and happy as your journey ends. What an epic build and thanks for sharing it with all of us.
Jim S.
-
Hello Waqas,
Thanks for the compliment!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by waqas
quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
Hi Waqas,
Yes, inside was coated also. I think the correct color was a darker grey. I just did a silver color....
Bob :)
Thanks Bob!
By the way, I absolutely love your new colour combination-- very classy! Can't wait to see it in person next year at Joe's.
-
Thanks Rick!
I had the bumper holes welded over and then the bumpers rechromed.
The soft top cover was already precut and stitched from Gahh. They supplied the entire interior, including carpet. Great vendor!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by bogeyman
Hi Bob:
I also would like to thank you for your invaluable postings and pictures during your "odyssey".
Couple of questions:
I like your "clean" look, but what did you do to the bumpers, replace or plug and rechrome.
The soft top cover pad looks to be seamed at the corners? Did you find some difficulty fitting a single piece?
Thanks again for all of your time for all of our benefit.
Rick
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Bob,
I just checked your picassa site to see if you might have posted any pictures and there they were. A lot has happened since the July 26th posting. I have the feeling that there are other pictures (knowing your documentation procedures :D . It is looking better every day.
Jim S
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Hi Jim,
Yes, I am still moving forward, but with some issues... Here's an update...
I gave my bumpers to the company that painted my car. They were supposed to fill the overider holes and send them out and have them tripple plated (fronts and rears), show quality (which was $$$). I gave them my bumpers in Jan. Got the rears back (ok quality), but for reasons too long to go into, the fronts came back w/o the holes filled and the chrome work was crap [:(!][:(!][:(!]! Month after month went by w/o them living up to their end[:(!]. Wrong on my part.... I paid them in full for the rechrome in the beginning because they said they had to pay the chromers up front :oops: . So now its a legal issue... what a pain...[:(!]
Yesterday I sent my throttle body back to a guy in California to redo the butterfly bushes and ensure all back to original specs. This is setting me back another 2-3 weeks ... :(
Basically, all that is left to do is to install the throttle body (when I get it back), adjust all linkages, fill fluids... and start 'er up :D ! Also need to install new window glass. Should get them in the next week or so. My original window glass had some scratches on the ends where the previous owner did'nt replace the plastic guides. Also, when I removed the glass last Oct/Nov I noticed that one glass was tinted and was was clear. Never really caught this before....
I was trying to spare any complaints, issues, but I guess it goes with any restoration.
Thanks, Bob
quote:
Originally posted by James Stern
Bob,
I just checked your picassa site to see if you might have posted any pictures and there they were. A lot has happened since the July 26th posting. I have the feeling that there are other pictures (knowing your documentation procedures :D . It is looking better every day.
Jim S
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Bob, sorry to hear about the bumpers. Do you think it's a chrome issue or perhaps what your body shop did prior to chrome? I got a feeling these guys are going to point the finger at each other. It's a shame when these things happen.
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Hi Hauser, it's the body shop. They sent the bumpers out w/o filling the holes. Bumpers were rechromed. Summary, rechrome was not "show quality, tripple plate". They only plated the front side, rear side is pealing thin layers of chrome and holes not filled. I have gone ahead and installed the bumpers with chrome plugs in the holes. I will redo them once I clear up the dispute with the body shop. They still did a very nice job on the body & paint. I am very pleased with their work on that!
Bob :)
quote:
Originally posted by hauser
Bob, sorry to hear about the bumpers. Do you think it's a chrome issue or perhaps what your body shop did prior to chrome? I got a feeling these guys are going to point the finger at each other. It's a shame when these things happen.
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two words...Judge Judy.
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Bob, I hope it all works out in your favor.
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Hey Bob, given the scope of all the work you've done, if this is the biggest issue that has come up then you're doing great!
Good luck with the resolution, and we can't wait to see the finished beauty!
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Hi Bob,
I can see how it would be a burning issue for you. Giving the quality of the work to date it's a pity when someone in the chain doesn't live up to their word. Maybe you should show the body shop the thread that has been running on Pagoda Forums. That might let your body shop get some kind of idea on how many people are following this thread. They need to take ownership of what went wrong as well as what went well. To quote waqas in the scheme of things it is a smaller set back. You will overcome this issue as you have others.
You have a big fan club out here and we are rooting for you.
Jim
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Quick update...
Rec'd refund check in the mail yesterday for the front bumpers ;) .
All is well in Memphis!
Bob :)
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[:0]
Bob,
Honesty in business?!? Well I'm stunned. Way to go.
Jim S
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Hello from spain
Where you buy the Upholstery, can you recomend me ???
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Hello Gabriel,
I purchased the upholstery & carpet from Gahh in California.
http://www.gahh.com/
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by Montearenas
Hello from spain
Where you buy the Upholstery, can you recomend me ???
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Have you got some reference about
http://www.worlduph.com
It was cheaper tham http://www.gahh.com/ and it Apparently is the same..
Thanks..
Gabriel