Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: RBYCC on October 13, 2007, 09:01:50
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Can anyone confirm that alloy wheels ( bundt? ) were an option on the later 280SL's ?
If so,what's the consensus opinion versus the painted hubcaps ?
Thanks
Ed
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Yes, alloy bundt-style rims were available on the later 280SLs. As for "consensus opinion" -- good luck! It's a lot like asking the whitewall vs. blackwall or best color (or dare I? -- blonde versus brunette!!) Personally, I have seen some very good looking cars with alloys -- usually silver and grey cars. With darker colors like your red, I am inclined to stay with wheel-covers. And for 230SLs, the original two-piecers all the way.
James
63 230SL
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Just had this discussion with Bob Possel this morning. Decided to keep my 230sl caps on the car to keep it's original look. Here is a comparison of the two wheel styles. zanone 66 230sl
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/zanone/20071013141812_wheels.jpg)
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quote:
Originally posted by RBYCC
Can anyone confirm that alloy wheels ( bundt? ) were an option on the later 280SL's ?
If so,what's the consensus opinion versus the painted hubcaps ?
Thanks
Ed
"Alloy wheels were extra-cost options for the 1970 model year right through to the end of productions in February 1971" (from the Meredith's book "Original Mercedes SL") but I prefer normal wheels also in the late 280SL's.
Ciao
Roberto
www.stellecadenti.com
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On the MB judging sheet, bundt wheels are listed as appropriate from late 69 onward. Here is the reference from the MBCA rule book for concours (2007 edition).
"Light alloy wheels were a factory option starting with the 1970 model year and were available in the fall of 1969."
Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
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Ask and you shall receive !!!
Great forum and good information.
I'm leaning toward keeping the painted caps, rims have some rash, so that's why I considered the Bundt alloys.
They seem to be less expensive then the caps !!!
Another item to my growing list of stuff to do to the "new" car...
Not looking for perfection, but what a somewhat correct appearance...
Speaking of which, I ordered the rear side markers.
Wiring is in the trunk, looks like the holes were filled over when the car was painted..
Also ordered under dash light, windshield washer reservoir, chrome exhaust tips, and considering converting to euro headlights as I'm having a difficult time finding new USA headlight doors.
Is the trunk light still available?
Fuse circuit 1 which has all this direct battery powered items doesn't seem to be completely working.
Discovered this circuit is the cause of my gen light going on when I open the door with key off.
Isolated the problem between the entrance light, associated switches,clock and glove compartment light.
Tomorrow more stuff to discover, if I don't go to the track or watch some NFL !!!
Thanks
Ed
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When It comes down to it, nothing looks better than the early cap and ring. Done right it's stunning.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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quote:
RBYCC:
Also ordered under dash light, windshield washer reservoir, chrome exhaust tips, and considering converting to euro headlights as I'm having a difficult time finding new USA headlight doors.
Is this what you are looking for: http://index.php?topic=7602?
Peter
Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280SL.
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quote:
Originally posted by Benz Dr.
When It comes down to it, nothing looks better than the early cap and ring. Done right it's stunning.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
Dan
I tend to agree.
The painted cap is a very formal look, reminiscent of coach built cars.
I used to show a standard steel 1956 RR SC1 which not only had caps painted, but with a pin stripe.
I've decided to stay with the "classic" look !!
Thanks
Ed
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My car had the aloy wheels when I got it. I went with the steel rims and caps. I have a silver car and like the look of the caps better.
Rolf
1966 230SL Auto
1992 300D
1991 FLHS
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I like the hub caps as well...It sounds like there may indeed be a "consensus opinion" forming here
Ken G
1971 280 SL Silver/red
1969 BMW 2800 (sedan)
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Hello Ed,
I think the alloys make the car look more sporty. They do very slightly reduce the un-sprung weight of the car. If in doubt, why not have both! These days you can find these used for around $25.00 ea. You may have to refinish them, they are painted silver with clear coat.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Might as well throw in my opinion. Ran on steel wheels for about 5 years, then shifted over to alloys. I would not even consider shifting back. Of course, I do have to add that I DRIVE my car, and the performance enhancement of the alloys was significant. I understand the issues with originality, and on my black '66 alloys would certainly not be original. I have kept the original steel wheels, caps and rings for the next owner of the car (never really plan on selling), but I can not imagine putting them back on during my ownership. The alloys do seem to look better on certain colors, and I do think they look stunning on a black '66....
If you have never tried driving a 113 with alloys, give it a try - you might be really surprised......
Regards -- Roger
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...and then there is that rare beast, the pressed alloy wheels ex-diesel Benz's of the early 80's. Each wheel weighs 11 pounds versus about 31 for the steel. That's a whopping 80 pound savings in unsprung weight. Add the additional 20# savings if you have the spare in alloy as well, and you have a car that is much lighter on its feet; handles a bit better and takes the wheel covers...
I finally got my set all together late in the summer and it's pretty nice--but you have to take a magnet to the wheels to tell them from steel.
Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
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quote:
Originally posted by ja17
Hello Ed,
I think the alloys make the car look more sporty. They do very slightly reduce the un-sprung weight of the car. If in doubt, why not have both! These days you can find these used for around $25.00 ea. You may have to refinish them, they are painted silver with clear coat.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe and the other "Alloy" advocates.
Considering the current price of alloys, it may make sense to try a set along with a slightly larger tire.
Interesting how many have noted a significant difference in "driving" with the alloys.
Yesterday dropped the car off at my Merc dealer.
Need to get it to original spec so I can pass emissions which will allow me to title the car.
Having them change all the fluids and filters and do a complete tune.
Fortunate that my small dealer has two of their four mechanics that date back to when the car was new.
So far very impressed...!!!
Seems fairly easy to work on compared to a more modern vehicle.
Thanks
Ed
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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Ed,
If you do track down a set of aloys, make sure they're OEM. There are loads of fakes out there.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
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Although not OEM, another option are bundt/fuchs/barock alloy rims in 15 inch vice 14 inch. Some of the people on this forum have these particular rims on their car and they all seem to rave about them. I have been searching for a set for sometime.
Cheers,
Danny
1970 28SL silver Euro 4-speed
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quote:
Originally posted by Douglas
Ed,
If you do track down a set of aloys, make sure they're OEM. There are loads of fakes out there.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
Douglas
Adsit has replicas weighing 20 lbs each.
Any experience with the quality of the replicas versus OEM?
Thanks
Ed
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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Don't buy from ADSIT. A friend had a very bad experience purchasing used alloys from ADSIT that were not described accurately. After the sale, they wouldn't even bother to return his call.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
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quote:
Originally posted by Douglas
Don't buy from ADSIT. A friend had a very bad experience purchasing used alloys from ADSIT that were not described accurately. After the sale, they wouldn't even bother to return his call.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
Douglas
Thanks much.
I'll start looking for the OEM's.
Ed
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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I just located four stamped alloys they want $150.. Good price?
Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"
Wheels turned out to be bogus. Still hunting.
Thanks for all the info.
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quote:
Originally posted by hill
I just located four stamped alloys they want $150.. Good price?
Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"
Excellent price for four wheels in decent condition.
Not difficult to repaint before you mount the tires !
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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quote:
Originally posted by Douglas
Ed,
If you do track down a set of aloys, make sure they're OEM. There are loads of fakes out there.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
The original Mercedes Alloys had steel inserts around the lug bolt holes. Most reproductions of the era did not. These inserts are clearly visible around the lugs.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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I much prefer the hubcap look. The pressed alloy wheels that take hubcaps, referred to by Michael Salemi seem to be an interesting alternative.
Dimitri
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quote:
Originally posted by harleydan
Although not OEM, another option are bundt/fuchs/barock alloy rims in 15 inch vice 14 inch. Some of the people on this forum have these particular rims on their car and they all seem to rave about them. I have been searching for a set for sometime.
Cheers,
Danny
1970 28SL silver Euro 4-speed
My brother bought a wreck of a euro 250SL a few months ago for $3000.
Yes, tons of rust but a complete car. The car has some weird old school alloys which I've never seen before. I wonder if they are these Fuchs wheels. I'll have to take a closer look.
Dimitri
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quote:
Originally posted by hill
I just located four stamped alloys they want $150.. Good price?
Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"
Darryl and any others interested...
If the wheels you have located are the 5.5" variety, a set of 4 in good condition is most definitely a good deal at $150. If they are the 6" version, it's a steal.
Things to look out for, for all those who might be looking for a set of these pressed alloy wheels.
1) Dents--these are very easy to dent, particularly when mounted on an extra heavy diesel sedan from whence they came, when it hits a curb.
2) Corrosion. Yes, aluminum corrodes, particularly from salt and road junk allowed to crust up. You'll see, after all is cleaned, that the wheels will look just like they rusted albeit without the rust color, but you see the pitting and corrosion.
3) Search for Jim Viller's posts on the subject, but they came in two varieties--5.5" and 6.0". From my searching, for every one of the 6 inch you'll find, you'll come across dozens of the 5.5's. Took me 2 years to come up with a set.
4) Unless you are running really wide tires, satisfice if you can find a nice set of 5.5's
5) Part number for the 6" wheels is 1234001502; they are from the W123 cars. If the original powder coat is intact, there is a solid silver stripe around the entire raised portion of the rim around the bolt holes. The 5.5's have a dashed silver line; that's how you tell them apart if you are searching in a mountain of old wheels (been there and done that!) Part number of the 5.5's is 1234001801. Not positive on this last number.
6) It should go without saying that the metal is soft. If you are having them professionally refinished, they'll need to be hand stripped as sand or bead blasting will obliterate the markings and also add a texture to the surface. I had mine refinished in the satin powder coat and they hand stripped them--all markings are intact and the finish is beautiful. (I learned a lesson on the the first set of two I found, now in the hands of Ray Hays...)
Good luck to all who are seeking...
Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
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I have both, I use the originals for showing the car !
BYW the early steel 230SL rims weigh a ton !!!
Alloys are considerably lighter !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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I've searched this forum high and low, and am now confused on the definitive answer on Fuchs (Barock or Bundtcake) alloys.
In Germany the following sizes are regularly for sale on ebay:
6 x 14"
6.5 x 14"
7 x 15"
I know the 6x14 are original for our cars. However, I've read different opinions as to whether the 6.5 and 7 inch versions fit.
Is there anyone that can help me out on this?
Peter
Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280SL.
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When considering different rims and tires we must consider many factors. Width considerations involve the potential impact of changing from 6" to 7" rims and any offset changes. A 1" rim width increase adds 12.7mm the the inside and outside rim width when measured from the centerline. I believe out the SL standard 14x6 rim has a 30mm offset. If a new rim has the same offset 1/2 the increase will be added to the inside and outside of the rim when compared to stock. I think the offset of the 15x7 Barock wheel is 23mm. This rim will add 20mm or about 3/4" to the outside and the inside will be 6mm or 1/4" less to the inside with when compared to the stock wheel.
Here is a pic of where to measure the offset.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) offset.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/200711616956_offset.jpg)
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Here is a website that sells spacers to compensate for offset differences.
http://www.optionimports.com/h-r-spacer-benz.html
This is nice and tidy but doesn't answer Peter's question. I suppose one way to figure this out is to install new tires and rims. An alternate is to use a mockup of the rim including correct offset with a tire sample.
I hope someone can assist with some actual field data.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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I was hoping someone might already have one of these rims on their car... the simple reason is that the 7"and 6.5" varieties are more common and hence cheaper ;) .
Anyone, please?
Peter
Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280SL.
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quote:
Originally posted by vanesp
I was hoping someone might already have one of these rims on their car... the simple reason is that the 7"and 6.5" varieties are more common and hence cheaper ;) .
Anyone, please?
Peter
Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280SL.
This any good? Its a 6.5x14 out of a W116. In my view, they look a lot nicer than the 6x14 wheels (from W123s)
I had them on my 230SL. Excuse the mess, picture taken just after it came out of the paint oven.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Alloy6x14.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/2007117134051_Alloy6x14.jpg)
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Or you could make the car a bit more long legged with 185VR15 tires on to 7x15 wheels a la Bohringer:
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Slazburg05 0253.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/2007117135836_Slazburg05%200253.jpg)
45.75 KB
naj
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If you are going to seriously compete in concours and need to drive the car to the events, go with the wheel covers. You cannot drive more than five feet with alloy wheels and not get chips in the clear coat. If you do anything to clean up the lug bolts you get dinged for authenticity. If you don't, you get nailed for cleanliness or condition. If you change tires, you will never get the marks from the old wheel weights to not show. It is also very hard to duplicate the factory finish if you refinish them.
I had alloys on my garage queen 1984 280SL, and I liked the look. But one change I was planning was to find a perfect set of steel rims and wheel covers so as to quit losing 1/2 to 1 point consistently in events.
Chuck Taylor
1970 280SL #14076
Falls Church VA
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Just a couple of observations, since I have been running alloys for a while on my '66. Adhesive weights were used on the inside of my wheels (several years ago) and are still adhered and working well - not sure why external clip-on weights would be used since they damage the rims (as mentioned) and detract from the rims appearance (unless you desire the retro look, which is OK I guess). Also, not sure if you can tell a 14x6 from a 14x6.5 from a front on shot - I think the second figure is for wheel width, which might be hard to see from the face. My driving impression is that the 14x6 alloy is a huge improvement over the standard steel 14x6 steel wheel (maybe the 14x6.5 with a fatter tire is even better). If you like the driving experience of the car, I suggest you try a drive on alloys - you might be surprised!!
Regards -- Roger
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Well, the problem with the weights is that you can have really nice original wheels with the external weights and need new tires. Or, my problem on the 280SL, where the 21 year old tires had to be replaced because the sidewalls were deteriorated. Then even if you use the adhesive weights on the inside, you are still stuck with the marks. Even if you find show quality wheels like "never down" spares, you still have this problem.
Like I said, this is only an issue with the q-tip concours crowd where you can't afford to give up points on something like wheels.
Chuck Taylor
1970 280SL #14076
Falls Church VA
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If I were to consider alloy wheels I would like to go with the 15" version. From what I have been able to determine 7Jx15H2 (ET23 or ET25 not sure which) Barock or Bundt Cake design alloy rims were available on the W126-034,035,036 and 037. These were S class cars delivered everywhere but the US from 1986 to 1991. An after market version of these rims can be found on ebay. Is anyone using rims from these cars or after market rims in the same size? What tires are you using and did you require wheel spacers? What size?
Thank you
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Just took the tires off of the five alloys I bought on Ebay for $41.00 total.
Measured at 7" and stamped ET30.
Any experience with this size on a 280SL?
Tires 205/70-14 ?????
Thanks !
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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Ed,
Where are you measuring the rim witdh? Here is a pic of where to take the measurement.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) rim width.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/200711817130_rim%20width.jpg)
15.31 KB
The rims on my car are the standard 6J14H. Offset for the standard rim is ET30, same as the rims you purchased. You may find your rims are 6 or 6 1/2 inches wide when measured in the right location. If they are 6 1/2 you will have 1/4" additional rim width on the inside and outside edge over the standard. I've had 205/70R14 tires on them for 10 years with no issues.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffc280sl
Ed,
Where are you measuring the rim witdh? Here is a pic of where to take the measurement.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) rim width.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/200711817130_rim%20width.jpg)
15.31 KB
The rims on my car are the standard 6J14H. Offset for the standard rim is ET30, same as the rims you purchased. You may find your rims are 6 or 6 1/2 inches wide when measured in the right location. If they are 6 1/2 you will have 1/4" additional rim width on the inside and outside edge over the standard. I've had 205/70R14 tires on them for 10 years with no issues.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
Jeff
Thanks !!!
You are so correct.
I measured from the face of the wheel flange.
They are 6".
Cleaned off some brake dust and they are an early W126 wheel.
P/N 1264001802? or 1502? hard to read.
Also marked 6J14H ET30.
Still should fit ?
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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The 1802 number did not work in the EPC parts system. The 1264001502 does work and indicates the rims were sold on 380SEC and 500SEC in Europe and Japan. The EPC system does not show a bundt aluminum wheel in the parts picture for this number. Don't know what that means. It also says this number was replaced by 1264000702 which shows delivery on W107-024,044 in the US. These were the 450SL and 450SLC.
As far as working on your car I can't see why not. They are the same size as the rims that came with your car from the factory. Sounds like a good buy was made on ebay.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffc280sl
The 1802 number did not work in the EPC parts system. The 1264001502 does work and indicates the rims were sold on 380SEC and 500SEC in Europe and Japan. The EPC system does not show a bundt aluminum wheel in the parts picture for this number. Don't know what that means. It also says this number was replaced by 1264000702 which shows delivery on W107-024,044 in the US. These were the 450SL and 450SLC.
As far as working on your car I can't see why not. They are the same size as the rims that came with your car from the factory. Sounds like a good buy was made on ebay.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
Jeff
Thanks again....
I'll start cleaning them up and decide if I want to paint or powder coat.
They seem to be straight with no rim rash or damage, but the finish is worn.
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffc280sl
The 1802 number did not work in the EPC parts system. The 1264001502 does work and indicates the rims were sold on 380SEC and 500SEC in Europe and Japan. The EPC system does not show a bundt aluminum wheel in the parts picture for this number. Don't know what that means. It also says this number was replaced by 1264000702 which shows delivery on W107-024,044 in the US. These were the 450SL and 450SLC.
As far as working on your car I can't see why not. They are the same size as the rims that came with your car from the factory. Sounds like a good buy was made on ebay.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
Jeff
Can you confirm the lug bolt length?
12MM x 1.5 size
63MM overall length???
39MM thread length ????
Thanks in advance
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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Ed,
Sorry, I don't have any info on the lug bolts.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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quote:
Can you confirm the lug bolt length?
12MM x 1.5 size
63MM overall length???
39MM thread length ????
Alloy wheel lug bolt:
Overall 50mm
Shank: 28mm
Steel wheel bolt
Overall 40mm
Shank 20mm
naj
68 280SL
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quote:
Originally posted by naj
quote:
Can you confirm the lug bolt length?
12MM x 1.5 size
63MM overall length???
39MM thread length ????
Alloy wheel lug bolt:
Overall 50mm
Shank: 28mm
Steel wheel bolt
Overall 40mm
Shank 20mm
naj
68 280SL
Naj
Much thanks.
Shorter then I thought !!!
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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quote:
Originally posted by RBYCC
quote:
Originally posted by naj
quote:
Can you confirm the lug bolt length?
12MM x 1.5 size
63MM overall length???
39MM thread length ????
Alloy wheel lug bolt:
Overall 50mm
Shank: 28mm
Steel wheel bolt
Overall 40mm
Shank 20mm
naj
68 280SL
Naj
Much thanks.
Shorter then I thought !!!
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) WhlBlt.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/2007111094818_WhlBlt.jpg)
36.82 KB
naj
68 280SL
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I've just added lots of info from this board to the Wheels and Tires (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=WheelsTires.Start) section of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Although not yet complete, many part numbers can be found here and a very complete section on Alloy wheels.
We can still use more help putting this manual together!
Peter
Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280SL.
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Just adding my 2c here for what its worth.......
I have used the Bundt wheels on my 230SL with 205/70x14 tyres, my wheels are 6Jx14. There are several designs of these wheels with slight differences.
The wheels used on W113,W108 and W114/115 cars differ from the W1076 cars in that the rim is more square. The W116 cars I've seen have openings that are almost square !
This is hard to describe so i'll try with some pictures !
Naj's wheels look like the W107 style so i'm wondering if they changed during its production run or maybe the W116's did ?
BTW the early W126's used similar wheels but 85> they used the flat faced 15" wheels that look totally different !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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quote:
Originally posted by Ben
Just adding my 2c here for what its worth.......
Naj's wheels look like the W107 style so i'm wondering if they changed during its production run or maybe the W116's did ?
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
They came off a W116
naj
68 280SL
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Couldn't find the answer to this anywhere else, but how can one tell if a bundt wheel is original MB or a fake? Where is the MB part number usually stamped? Do the fakes (or "reproductions") also carry the MB part number? (in which case, how else can one tell the difference?)
Thanks in advance!
quote:
Originally posted by Douglas
Ed,
If you do track down a set of aloys, make sure they're OEM. There are loads of fakes out there.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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Wagas,
The MB part number can be found on the inside of the rim. See pic attached.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) bundt part no.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/2007124222353_bundt%20part%20no.jpg)
65.43 KB
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Has anyone tried running a 215/70/14 tire before? There was a California coupe on ebay a few months back with this size tire. I emailed the seller and told him I too was a Pagoda owner and was curious in this size tire and inquired if there was a rubbing issue. The seller replied that he had no issues whatsoever and enjoyed on the car drove and appreciated the wider stance which gave him better handling. INHO I think they might be a tad wide but as far as height it seems very close to the original tires.
1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.
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Jeff, thanks!
quote:
Originally posted by jeffc280sl
Wagas,
The MB part number can be found on the inside of the rim. See pic attached.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) bundt part no.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/2007124222353_bundt%20part%20no.jpg)
65.43 KB
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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quote:
Originally posted by hauser
Has anyone tried running a 215/70/14 tire before? There was a California coupe on ebay a few months back with this size tire. I emailed the seller and told him I too was a Pagoda owner and was curious in this size tire and inquired if there was a rubbing issue. The seller replied that he had no issues whatsoever and enjoyed on the car drove and appreciated the wider stance which gave him better handling. INHO I think they might be a tad wide but as far as height it seems very close to the original tires.
1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.
I had 205/70x14s on my 230 SL both with the bundt alloys and steel wheels.
No rubbing issues at all.
naj
68 280SL
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While we are talking about the alloy wheels, does anyone have an opinion (boy is that a dumb question) on the correct color paint for the alloys? Has anyone tried the aftermarket options like Wurth, Eastwood, or Griot's Garage spray paint?
Pete S.
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The 15x7 wheel will fit our cars. You'll want it to have an offset of 23mm. I actually have two sets of these for a future project car. Bob Hatch did a 3.5 conversion to two 1969 280sl's. One he went all out with 15" bundt wheels and a Mechatronic suspension. He told me that it handles better than a Ferrari. I'm not sure if he still has these cars but there was quite a bit of intrest in his project.
quote:
Originally posted by vanesp
I've searched this forum high and low, and am now confused on the definitive answer on Fuchs (Barock or Bundtcake) alloys.
In Germany the following sizes are regularly for sale on ebay:
6 x 14"
6.5 x 14"
7 x 15"
I know the 6x14 are original for our cars. However, I've read different opinions as to whether the 6.5 and 7 inch versions fit.
Is there anyone that can help me out on this?
Peter
Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php). Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280SL.
1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.
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Peter:
reguarding your post on painting the Mercedes-Benz alloy wheels. Do not wast your energy and time. have them powder coated with the Astro Silver color & clear coat them. They will look and stay nice for ever.
I had my ford Pony wheels powder coded and they are a much better quality then the factory painted ones, just spectactular at car shows.
Bob Geco
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Good advice from Bob,
These wheels were originally powder coated. An exact color match is difficult. The Mercedes-Benz re-finishing manual back in those days advises painting with astral silver #9735 after sanding, priming, filling if needed and resanding. ****Star Magazine Nov./Dec. "94"
Since these times powder coating has become much more widespread. Custom color matches are possible. It is the best option.
The next best is the process is painting, but use a good industrial grade or automotive grade two part painting system. Epoxy paints, and good two part urethane enamels work well. A couple heavy coats of clear over the metalic color is needed for best results. Some metalic powder coats also require a protective clear powder coat over the color coat.
Your wheels take more abuse from weather and road dirt than any other surface on your car. Avoid using strong chemicals and keep them clean or the finish will suffer. At least use a good grade of spray wax on them when you wax the rest of the car, the wheel surface needs more protection than anything else!
When I have my wheels off the car, I clean and wax the insides of the rims also. This makes road dirt and grime easier to remove next time and protects the rims. Maybe Bob G. can recomend some products and procedures?
Bead or media blasting is and execellent preparation before refinishing.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Can anyone confirm (or deny) that this is an original Mercedes bundt wheel? It looks like it has the insert in the lug bolt holes....
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Thanks!
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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"Just adding my 2c here for what its worth......."
Ben, don't forget I'd still like that holiday and am still collecting.
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quote:
Originally posted by waqas
Can anyone confirm (or deny) that this is an original Mercedes bundt wheel? It looks like it has the insert in the lug bolt holes....
Thanks!
Waqas in Austin, Texas
You should also see a part number cast into the back of the rim.
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG
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quote:
Originally posted by waqas
Can anyone confirm (or deny) that this is an original Mercedes bundt wheel? It looks like it has the insert in the lug bolt holes....
Have a look at the technical manual: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=WheelsTires.Alloys
I don't recognise the codes on your wheels (BHS ?) as of one of the 3rd party manufacturers I have listed (Ronal, Centra, ATS) but then I did not research those in detail.
6JX14 H2 E30 are just sizing codes (E30 is Einpresstiefe, see http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=WheelsTires.Start).
Peter
1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php).
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quote:
Originally posted by RBYCC
You should also see a part number cast into the back of the rim.
I can't seem to find any other part numbers on the entire rim. They would seem to be aftermarket, since there was no 10-digit MB part number anywhere. Just thought I'd ask in case someone here knew of this manufacturer "BHS".
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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quote:
Originally posted by waqas
quote:
Originally posted by RBYCC
You should also see a part number cast into the back of the rim.
I can't seem to find any other part numbers on the entire rim. They would seem to be aftermarket, since there was no 10-digit MB part number anywhere. Just thought I'd ask in case someone here knew of this manufacturer "BHS".
Waqas in Austin, Texas
There are two sets of markings directly across from each other on the 1264001902 Fuchs Bundt wheel set that someday I'll get powder coated !!!
Wheel size, Merc part number and VIN?
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/WHEEELID1.jpg)
Wheel offset
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/WHEELID2.jpg)
ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG