Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: doitwright on August 01, 2007, 14:14:08
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I figured that while I had my radiator removed for a recore, I would clean the 1/8" - 1/4" of sludge and oil that has built up on the outside of my engine. I discover that the main front seal appears to be the main source of the problem. During last weekends Blacklick event, I asked several people if they recommended replacement of the front crankshaft race that the front seal slides over and wears against. While I was advised to replace it, I could not get any good ideas how to remove the race. After thinking about it for a while, I came up with the following simple homemade tool that you can see in the 1st photo:
6" length of 2" PVC pipe with a 1" slot cut out down the 6" length
2 hose clamps
After cutting the slot in the pipe, I removed all the PVC shavings and cleaned the piece with soap and water. You do not want to get little pieces of plastic in your engine. I fit the 2 hose clamps over the pipe and pre tightened the clamps. I slipped the pipe over the race which has about a 1 -3/4" outer diameter and tightened the hose clamps until the pipe was squeezed tightly around the race. Using a large wrench on the outside end of the PVC pipe, I was able to loosen the race from the crankshaft and then pull it out with relative ease and no tool requiring metal to metal contact.
Once removed, the wear on the race is evident as you can see in the 2nd photo. Hopefully once back together, I will have found the source of my leak and my engine will remain clean.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Race removal tool.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/doitwright/20078116937_Race%20removal%20tool.jpg)
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Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Worn front seal race.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/doitwright/20078116103_Worn%20front%20seal%20race.jpg)
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Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois
1970 280SL Light Ivory
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Congrats on the very elegant tool.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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quote:
Originally posted by doitwright
.../... remove the race. After thinking about it for a while, I came up with the following simple homemade tool .../...
Great tool :)
I always enjoy seeing workshop creativity!
quote:
Hopefully once back together, I will have found the source of my leak and my engine will remain clean.
One advise to you with this job: Be sure to get the seal in to seat itself absolutely perpendicular to the crank - or there will be oil seeping out :(
Also be sure not to nick the seal in any way
Loosen the underpan Allen bolts closest to the seat of the seal. Use a mandrel over the crank stub to press seal in position. Then re-tighten the Allen bolts.
Leave the mandrel on for several hours until the sealant has cured.
/Hans in Sweden
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Hi, Frank,
Clever tool 8)
I believe you can use the same race again 'turned around' for a second life.
naj
68 280SL
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Hello Frank,
Yes clever, I may need to try this myself!
Hello Naj, hope your trip back to London went well!
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Is the 'Race' another name for the 'spacer' that has been referred to in other posts?
Is a 'mandrel' a guide (the same size as the 'race') that is used when re-inserting the race?
Sorry to sound uneducated but i want an accurate understanding of the process as I have this job in the future.
thanks
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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The race is sometimes referred to as a sleeve. It is not a very tight fit but will sit snug on the end of the crankshaft. It is also recessed but flush with the engine block so getting a wrench on it is difficult. The mandrel can be a deep socket that will be used to push the seal into position by lightly tapping on the mandrel and applying even pressure around the seal. This is better than tapping on the seal itself.
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois
1970 280SL Light Ivory
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quote:
Originally posted by doitwright
The mandrel can be a deep socket that will be used to push the seal into position by lightly tapping on the mandrel and applying even pressure around the seal
I suggest, avoid the tapping. Use the center screw to seat the seal, and as I wrote, leave it overnight to cure.
The mandrel could look similar to this:
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Crank seal install tool_2.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/mbzse/20078251810_Crank%20seal%20install%20tool_2.jpg)
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/Hans in Sweden