Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Joe on June 06, 2007, 09:59:41
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I was talking to my body man about the upcoming painting of the 230SL, and he cringed when I closed the hood. My technique was to gently set the hood down and manually release the safety catch on the side, and then to press down firmly right over the latch. He showed me that the hood was slightly depressed in the center, right where I had pressed down. I had deformed the hood by closing it in this manner. I then opened the hood again, and this time closed it by slamming it shut before the safety latch engaged, such that my hand was off the hood by the time it caught. This worked just fine.
Having never seen this discussed on the list, I thought I would bring it up.
Joe
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If you let the hood slam, pretty soon you'll start seeing some paint chipping off where the safety catch hits down...
I've always used your 'soft close' technique without any noticable warping to the hood.... now I'm worried!
WAQAS in Austin, Texas
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Hi Guys...
Per the manual, you're doing it the right way... dont drop and slam it...
See attached pic for info from the manual.
Bob
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) hood.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/20076612846_hood.jpg)
64.51 KB
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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I was shown this method -
Bring the hood down to about 6 inch and drop it - the hood hold will close nicly and no damage will occur.
Ron - Minnesota
71 280SL Tobacco "O GIGI"
97 E420 Silver Mist
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If you use a really flat hand to push down, you shouldn't have a problem with a depression in the aluminum.
Frankly, both methods (the push vs. the drop) are less than perfect.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
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I used the old drop method for years. I cringed everytime but thought it was the only way. Then somewhere, on here I think, someone mentioned the push method. That's how I do it now. I usually have my polishing rag bunched up in my fist and give it a firm nudge. The rag protects from dents and also from smudgies.
One other thing -- the hood release under the dash needs to spring back to its closed position or the hood won't catch very well.
James
63 230SL
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quote:
I used the old drop method for years. I cringed everytime but thought it was the only way. Then somewhere, on here I think, someone mentioned the push method.
Guilty :twisted:
naj
68 280SL
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To be honest you could interpret the instructions on that attachement both ways "Push down engergetically "
My hood wont close if I drop it, I have always just pushed it firmly, and there is the merest of deformation there now !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Actually, there is a better way to close the hood. I have used this for many years on closing hoods. Also tell all those that ask about the hood closing, how to do it.
Ok, you let the hood down till the catch engages. Then with your hand out like you're giving a handshake, but keep it straight. With the bottom of the hand align it with the edge of the hood near the air intake grille, at the far back edge of the hood. Then use the push down method while holding the hand upright. Give it a sharp firm push down till the hood closes.
This way you dont end up with a large dimple on the hood. This was taught to me by a former MB mechanic. The area that dimples has no support underneath, but at the edge there is the skeleton of the hood under the skin.
Hope this clears up the mystery of the dimples.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel
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Walter agree with you completely, pushing down on the edge of the hood/bonnet should not cause any deformation.
A bigger concern for me is how hard I have to slam down the soft top rear frame to get it to engange with the lock.
This scares me everytime!
Rob Walker
1968 280SL papyrus white/green leather
Spain and Turkey
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I gotta weigh in here, I am one of those people that cringes when ANYTHING needs to be "slammed". If the hood is adjusted properly it shood latch neatly when dropped from about 6 inches OR when closed with a firm, open hand on the area directly above the latch. The soft top lid is a different story, it is not heavy enough to close by dropping but I would never "slam" it, rather, a gentle push-to-close, first on the driver's side and then on the passenger side. I think if you have to either slam or force the issue it is probably a matter of adjustment rather than technique.
And thanks for the opportunity to vent. Now I won't have to say "don't slam it, please" next time my wife goes to close the passenger door...it is out of my system!
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
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I'd say Walt has described my way, but again I usually have the cloth in hand for a neat wipe on the way by. As for soft-top, being a 230SL, I do the gentle push first -- then lock handles. All the dropping in the world probably wouldn't catch.
And Enoch -- I hear you about the doors -- why to people assume they have to fling the door shut! I cringe -- expecting to hear broken glass or something...
James
63 230SL
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Yes your right , why do people assume they have to fling the door shut ...
I do my best on being a gentleman by getting out before my wife or daughter get out , so I can assist them in getting out or even getting in the car .
I know the cars a well built , however you never know .
Kemal
280 SL Manual 69
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
I'd say Walt has described my way, but again I usually have the cloth in hand for a neat wipe on the way by. As for soft-top, being a 230SL, I do the gentle push first -- then lock handles. All the dropping in the world probably wouldn't catch.
And Enoch -- I hear you about the doors -- why to people assume they have to fling the door shut! I cringe -- expecting to hear broken glass or something...
James
63 230SL
;)
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Back in the early 60' when we had this blue 230SL, my wife would take the two girls to the swimming beach almost every day. I noticed a dent in the soft top lid: It happened because one kid could not wait for the door to open and put her foot on the lid to get out. The lid is double-walled and I could never repair it. So, avoid stepping on it.
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Can anyone lock down the center/rear pin of the soft top with out slamming?
quote:
Originally posted by enochbell
I gotta weigh in here, I am one of those people that cringes when ANYTHING needs to be "slammed". If the hood is adjusted properly it shood latch neatly when dropped from about 6 inches OR when closed with a firm, open hand on the area directly above the latch. The soft top lid is a different story, it is not heavy enough to close by dropping but I would never "slam" it, rather, a gentle push-to-close, first on the driver's side and then on the passenger side. I think if you have to either slam or force the issue it is probably a matter of adjustment rather than technique.
And thanks for the opportunity to vent. Now I won't have to say "don't slam it, please" next time my wife goes to close the passenger door...it is out of my system!
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
Kevin Caputo
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex
2007 Lava Gray Audi Q7
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Hi Kevin,
I can. I lower it until it rests on the edge of the pin hole, then I forcefully push down with the palm of my left hand. This is after I have locked in the front.
Before I took my car to have the canvas installed, I removed my old canvas and adjusted the frame until all worked easy. The rear frame bow can be adjusted when the canvas is off. When the new canvas was installed, it was a bit tough to close but this cured over time.
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by KevinC
Can anyone lock down the center/rear pin of the soft top with out slamming?
quote:
Originally posted by enochbell
I gotta weigh in here, I am one of those people that cringes when ANYTHING needs to be "slammed". If the hood is adjusted properly it shood latch neatly when dropped from about 6 inches OR when closed with a firm, open hand on the area directly above the latch. The soft top lid is a different story, it is not heavy enough to close by dropping but I would never "slam" it, rather, a gentle push-to-close, first on the driver's side and then on the passenger side. I think if you have to either slam or force the issue it is probably a matter of adjustment rather than technique.
And thanks for the opportunity to vent. Now I won't have to say "don't slam it, please" next time my wife goes to close the passenger door...it is out of my system!
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
Kevin Caputo
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex
2007 Lava Gray Audi Q7
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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I think it is widely accepted that the 230SL's do best when the back latch is locked first, then the top handles latched. 280s seem to require the opposite (front then back). If I do front first, I just can't get the back to catch. Done the "correct" way (i.e. the manual), all I need to do is a little cpr move on the back. Then guide the fronts in.
James
63 230SL
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quote:
I think it is widely accepted that the 230SL's do best when the back latch is locked first, then the top handles latched. 280s seem to require the opposite (front then back). If I do front first, I just can't get the back to catch. Done the "correct" way (i.e. the manual), all I need to do is a little cpr move on the back. Then guide the fronts in.
......yep, though I drop the rear from about 4" and it clunks in !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Ben, this is interesting. In my case, the rear section of the top doesn't swing particularly easy -- and thus I don't think it would ever "drop" from any distance. Maybe my hinges are too tight or need a little lubey?
James
63 230SL