Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: merrill on April 14, 2007, 22:20:43

Title: stuck and stuck
Post by: merrill on April 14, 2007, 22:20:43

so, I am in the process of installing the auxillary parts on the motor for my 66 230 sl.

i have a new water pump and thermostat to install, which is where I get stuck.

Thermostat:  I have the bolts out, but the top will not come off. I do not want to pry it,  Any thoughts?

Water pump:  the old water pump will not come out of the housing. all the bolts are removed but it will not budge.

I have both soaking with pb blaster overnight, since both are aluminum I am not sure if I can or should apply heat from a torch.

thanks
matt

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

Title: Re: stuck and stuck
Post by: BABAK on April 15, 2007, 00:51:28

My dad says there might be 1 more bolt size 10 bolt . If there is no bolt then you can even tap it with your hand . Try not to hit  with hammer it will ruin every thing.

Title: Re: stuck and stuck
Post by: ja17 on April 15, 2007, 06:03:40

Hello Matt,

Gentle taps with a plastic or wooden mallet should break loose the years of crud binding the parts together.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

Title: Re: stuck and stuck
Post by: merrill on April 15, 2007, 09:35:40

Thanks for the replies,  

I was able to get the water pump off finally.  I mounted the housing with pump to the motor and then applied pressure via a pry bar against the end of the pump.  slowly the seal came loose and it came off.

the gasket is all stuck, i think whom ever installed the last pump used a lot of sealer with the gasket.

now to get the thermostat housing top off.

thanks again
matt

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

Title: Re: stuck and stuck
Post by: waqas on April 15, 2007, 15:22:34

Matt,
I saw this too late to help, but I had a similar issue when taking out my pump. Some things to keep in mind: the housing is made of aluminum, so prying can be dangerous; tapping the pump with a wooden mallet is much better; the housing bolts should be all in (connecting to block) and somewhat tight so that the force applied through tapping translates directly to disconnecting the pump-to-housing joint. Once I tightened these bolts a couple taps was all it took to disconnect pump.

Regarding the thermostat, I simply attached the upper radiator hose back on to the top cover (with the housing still attached to the engine), I grabbed the thermostat cover/hose combination with my hands and yanked upwards.

Also, be careful when torquing down the thermostat and water pump bolts. Some idiot in the past over-torqued some of the bolts on mine, and ruined the threads. Now I'm having to heli-coil two of them! These housings are made of aluminum, so the threads strip easily. (and they are expensive!  However, the water pump housing has the same part number across all engines of the era-- even the M130)

Even if you're done already, I hope this helps someone else!

WAQAS in Austin, Texas

Title: Re: stuck and stuck
Post by: waqas on April 15, 2007, 15:32:09

Forgot to mention: since you're this far, you should probably change the pump-housing to block seal, as well as the thermostat housing to head seal (cheap insurance against future leaks).

WAQAS in Austin, Texas

Title: Re: stuck and stuck
Post by: merrill on April 16, 2007, 07:57:12

so, finally got the thermostat housing top off.

after soaking the gap with pb blaster overnight I carefully used a small pry bar with a large (large) tip and carefully worked the gap open.

re soaked a little and worked some more.  the top finally came off.
the  o ring seal was squished flat and some was stuck between the lip that goes between the top and bottom half.

when re installing I used an x torque pattern and a thumb screw on the socket. I do not think I overtightened it.

thanks for the help

matt

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230