Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: bpossel on April 12, 2007, 06:07:37
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Hi All!
Got bored again, so pulled my manifolds off to have them cleaned and powder coated.
My current exhaust system is a mix of stainless and rusted steel[:0]. The down-pipes are rusted steel, while the mid section and end section are stainless. There is a sticker on the mid muffler “Ansa”.
I want to replace the down-pipes with stainless and make it look as nice as the rest of the system 8) .
:?: My questions are:
1. Should I go the route of custom bending at a local muffler shop?
2. Should I contact Time Valve or other muffler mfg. and order the stainless down-pipes?
3. Should I just replace the entire system with a Time Valve because I will not be able to get the right fit between the 2 different system?
4.Do I need to weld the new with the old (currently entire system is welded) or can I use a clamp to hold the new down-pipes to the old system?
Thanks in advance for your input and advice!
Bob
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Exhaust-1.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/20074128715_Exhaust-1.jpg)
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Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Exhaust-2.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/20074128731_Exhaust-2.jpg)
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bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Would a call to Time Valve to see what they recommend be of any value? I have a regular system, so cannot offer what might be fit and cut alternatives. It would seem that the where and how of cutting the existing system would be a question for a local (and trusted) place of business.
Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
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Bob, any trouble getting old pipes off the manifold? I've heard this can be challenging. My front pipes look a lot like yours -- the only part of my system that is original.
James
63 230SL
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Hello James, Jonny,
I unscrewed the down pipes from the manifolds first. Bolts were very rusty, but with some "Deep Creep", they came off without breaking.
I then loosened the entire muffler system by removing all of the rubber donuts. As the system lowered in the rear, it broke free from the manifold, no issues. I then removed the manifold. Lastly, to get the muffler out of the engine bay area, I had to remove the idler bolt and swing the arm out of the way. Also disconnected the steering damper. With a little maneuvering, got the entire system out from under the car. At this point if I dont cut the old rusted section off and re-install with new down pipes, clamping it to the old, not sure how I would get the entire system back in again...
What is really needed is a lift to get the car up high. Too late now that I have the old system out.
I did talk to TimeValve today. They can supply 2 new down-pipes along with sleeves to connect them to the old system. I may go this route....?
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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Bob, Is 'Deep Creep' better than PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench? Where do you get it?
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Hi Glennard,
Yes, I have used PB Blaster and was a big fan of it, until a friend introduced me to Deep Creep. Deep Creep seems to be a lot better. Seems to eat the rust much quicker, and is also clear, not orange!
I bought it at AutoZone, but I am sure its other places as well.
When I put some on my very rusted down-pipe bolts/nuts, I was expecting to have to wait overnight before loosening. Ended up waiting only ~10 minutes and the nuts came off very easily.
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by glennard
Bob, Is 'Deep Creep' better than PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench? Where do you get it?
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320