Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: bpossel on February 04, 2007, 11:50:51
-
I am considering replacing the carpet in my car. I currently have the cognac mb-tex with cognac carpet.
I want to remove the ugly large speakers that a PO installed in the rear shelf, so I will need to carpet over the "filled in" holes. Also, when I removed my A/C last year, it left a chuck of carpet missing on the passenger side where the A/C bracket bolted to the floor.
So, looking for some advice....
I really hate the look of the cognac carpet (orangey, brown... ugh!)
Thinking about a darker tan in square weave...
Has anyone else with the cognac seats, ect, replaced their carpet with an alternate color besides cognac? If yes, what color?
Any other thoughts, recommendations..?
Also, if I do this, is anyone interested in buying my old carpet? The PO replaced it a few months before I bought the car, which has been almost 3 years now. Obviously, will have 2 holes in the rear shelf and a chunk missing on the top section under the pass side dash.
Thanks!
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
I have a Duncan ( navy ) blue car with biscuit ( Light cream colour ) interior including a light coloured carpet. I have seen a dark grey carpet used with the same combination and it looks great. Maybe you might try and think "out of the box " and look at something less immediately obvious. When I have my floor replaced next year I will definitely consider this colour. I would never have thought of it had I not seen it and think that the darker colour ( in your case maybe dark brown ) helps ground the interior.
Good luck.
http://www.silverarrows.co.uk/Car1/car.htm
by the way, I did see a post recently about carpet weft and quality. Look at this too, it's really interesting.
paulr
lovely 1970 280 SL
-
Bob,
There's also a dark brown multiloop from that era. It's dark brown with black flecks. That should look alright with cognac Tex.
Douglas Kim
New York
USA
-
Bob,
I recently replaced my cognac multiloop with "tan" squareweave. After looking at a couple of multiloop samples along with the squareweave, it (the squareweave) seemed of higher quality and to my eye a better looking carpet even though the squareweave is not "correct" for my '71.
I'll try to attach a photo....never done this before.
best regards,
Rich
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) tansquaresmall.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/ramcdonald/200724174819_tansquaresmall.jpg)
72.87 KB
-
Bob,
I have a dark brown square weave set for sale if you think that would work. Its never been installed.
Kevin
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) PICT0322A.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/kevinc/20072420812_PICT0322A.JPG)
74.55 KB
Kevin Caputo
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex
2007 Lava Gray Audi Q7
-
Thanks Everyone!
Great suggestions! Rich, thanks for the pic with your color combo. Looks nice and gives me hope that other color combo will work.
Jeff, I like the dark brown, but am leaning more towards a dark tan square weave (#1004). I rec'd a sample from World A. and it looks pretty nice.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) SQUAREWEAVE.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/20072564626_SQUAREWEAVE.jpg)
37.43 KB
Still in the thinking stage right now, so again I do appreciate everyones input. Thank you!
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob,
I recall that the carpets from this vendor had a low thread count and the backing didn't appear to be optimal. See my pictures in this topic: http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=4824
Unfortunately, I haven't kept all my samples but I received some nice ones from GAHH (most expensive and lowest thread count) and from this company (via email request): http://cabrio.de/Englisch/navi.htm. {squareweave = Boucle}
Take your time searching for the one that you really like. In my case I wanted a carpet with a high thread count, it looks better IMO.
Another important feature is the kind of material (plastic or fabric) and the color used for the binding . The binding color can really change your impression about the carpet color.
Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic
-
I have always liked darker carpet, it can hide dirt better. If you ever purchase a custom made carpets let them cut additional mats for the driver and passenger sides - ones you can just take out and clean then put back (see picture).
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) P1010050.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/abbas/20072665142_P1010050.JPG)
67.78 KB
This way your base carpet stays in a good shape - especially on the driver side. Actutlly, my carpet has vinly on the other side and the edges as well. This way the carpet/mat stays tight and does not leave any residue on my base carpet.
Abbas
Rodd - I have just fixed it.
280SL W113 1969 Ivory
E280 W124 1995 Silver
-
quote:
Originally posted by Abbas
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) P1010050+.JPG (http://"http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/abbas/20072512044_P1010050+.JPG")
62.93 KB
Abbas,
I don't think the "+" sign is a valid character for a file name on this web site.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
-
Alfred - Who did you finally use as a carpet supplier? Did you use the 7 loops/inch material?
As for the brackets for the tray, the original 7 loops/inch carpet was flexible enough that it just "molded" over the brackets.
One other point. On my car the screws (original from the factory) are chromed oval head phillips with a "cup" washer underneath. The tray bottom is plywood so it should not crack.
Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex
-
Vince,
I bought the carpets from Mrs. Werner {http://www.werner-interieur.de/html/englisch.html} and brought them back with me on a recent trip. And yes, it is a 7 loops/inch carpet and quite pliable. While I was waiting I was watching one of her employees install them in a 250SL and he had no problems stretching the carpet over the tray brackets.
I haven't started my installation yet - the garage temperature is barely above the freezing point right now - but plan to post pictures when I start the process.
Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic
-
Thanks Alfred. I'm amazed at how many suppliers are out there.
Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex
-
I am currently in the process of replacing my carpet. I know that we all like pictures. So I will upload some as I am working on this.
With all of the old carpet removed, I am in the process of scraping and cleaning. One area to point out that needs to be cleaned (to minimize rust formation) is inside the rear wheel well area. This is easily accessed while all is apart. With the rear panel removed, there is a plastic barrier that also needs to be removed. Then you can reach in and scrap with a screw driver, vacuum and hose out the debris. Most of this work is by “feel”. Very tight. See attached pic for area.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) rear-qtr.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/200732473944_rear-qtr.jpg)
59.02 KB
It's amazing how many hidden cavities these cars have. Lots of areas that can accumulate dirt and rust can form. There are also a lot of holes, drain holes... if these get clogged, valaa, rust!
... I have found some minor surface rust on the floor pan corners and a bit on the bottom part of the gas pedal, but overall not bad.
Here is a pic showing the 2 access panels on the trans hump. One panel on top and one on the side. When I install the dynamat I will ensure to leave these uncovered. Also wont glue the carpet down on the trans hump.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) access-panels.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/200732481713_access-panels.jpg)
68.77 KB
More to come...
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob - have you done the shifter bushings in the front - under the access panels? Now would be a good time....
Bob Happe
Pittsburgh, Pa
1970 280SL, white/black 4 speed
-
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the advice. I will do this!
B.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
quote:
With the rear panel removed, there is a plastic barrier that also needs to be removed.
.........Bob any chance you could post a photo of this part ??
Mine does not have anything there !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
-
Hi Ben, I'll take a picture and post later. Tonight I removed my shifter. Ordered the bushings today and will redo the shifter bushings, as suggested by Bob H. I will also redo the clip/spring and internal bushings on the shift rod itself.
B.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Hi Ben,
After removing my rear panel (inspected by Inspector #662, or is this a number used to match the pieces to the car?) it exposes the opening to the rear wheel well area. Note the plastic covering.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) rear-panel.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/2007327202453_rear-panel.jpg)
56.63 KB
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) plastic-sheet.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/2007327202829_plastic-sheet.jpg)
62.73 KB
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by Ben
quote:
With the rear panel removed, there is a plastic barrier that also needs to be removed.
.........Bob any chance you could post a photo of this part ??
Mine does not have anything there !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Wonderful Bob........thanks for that, I appreciate it !
Thanks for taking the time to post that !
Plastic covers are now on my "to do" list..............after I get my car back in about 12 months time !! :evil:
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
-
Hey Ben!
Your most welcome! Not sure if the plastic sheets are "original" or not? Anyone else ever see these?
Note: what you see in the picture is new plastic. I used the old ones as a template and cut out some new stuff. Bought some thicker plastic and used 3M Clear Supper Silcone Sealant to glue back in place. The brown stuff that you see on the edges is just some old glue. This old glue is very hard, so I just left it on rather than scrape and then have to repaint to prevent and rust forming. You can also see lots of glue on the black metal plate in the picture. Since this is hard also, I am just leaving this on and will glue new carpet on top of it...
Regards,
Bob
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Hey Ben,
quote:
..............after I get my car back in about 12 months time !!
You said that 12 month ago!!!!
What's going on :?:
naj
68 280SL
-
quote:
You said that 12 month ago!!!!
What's going on
.........not very much .......thats the problem !![:(!]
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
-
Hello All!
Finally got the new carpet install completed this weekend. Overall, happy. However, I am a bit disappointed in the "fit" of some of the pieces. I purchased the carpet from World A. I plan on calling them today and seeing what can be done. The main issue is with the "fit" of the rear shelf carpet. The edge of the larger piece is not straight.. Hopefully they will redo it? ( :) Update: Spoke to Mike. Very nice! They are going to recut and send new piece to me, no charge... no hassles... great service!)
As you can see by the attached picture, I decided to go with what they call a dark tan square weave. Not correct for the cognac, but I didnt like the orangey, brown, correct color. I also didnt glue the carpet down to the trans tunnel, so it's a bit wavy. Not sure yet how to fix that?
Anyway, the picture gives those of you with a cognac interior another option to look at...
Lots of work to replace, especially scraping out the old floor material, but in the end, well worth it!
Regards, Bob
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) new-carpet.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/20074275910_new-carpet.jpg)
72.88 KB
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
I dont have the plastic sheet. :evil: Any idea what its function is?
Kay
Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.
-
Hello Kay,
I dont really know what the plastic sheets purpose is. I just replaced the old ones, what was there when I removed the rear side panels. They looked original, or at least old...
Anyone else know there purpose?
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by KD
I dont have the plastic sheet. :evil: Any idea what its function is?
Kay
Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob,
I would have thought that the sheet is a moisture membrane, the same thing that sits between the door panels and the working gubbins of the door (window, winder, etc). As you know, the drain tubes from the soft top box run through that area and release water into the sills directly below and in line with where the plastic sheet is. The plastic is probably there just to stop any water running into or getting blown into the interior when the car is driving at speed. (Which seems likely given the poor design of drainage from the soft top box - it's worth checking the condition of the tubes/drainage holes whilst you're there).
I also have a question for you. I am preparing to replace my carpets and would like to know what you used under them. I have purchased the correct MB bitumen/tar pads to go on the floor pan. I then intended to put down some form of felt sound deadening material, followed by the carpet.
Having seen the bitumen pads, I can't see that they add anything and will only get my new floor all messy. I also don't want to glue them down.
Instead, I was thinking that I could use self adhesive dynamat straight onto the metal, followed by some additional thin felt carpet (as MB origiginally did according to SLS in Hamburg) followed by the carpet. That's for the floor mats. Elsewhere, I am thinking that I could just use dynamat then perhaps glue the carpet onto that. Would glueing onto dynamat work?
Can you advise on a sensible way forward given your experiences?
Thanks.
James
-
Hi James,
What I did was to install Dynamat Extreme (a newer, and supposedly better material than just Dynamat...) directly to the metal floors. I also had 2 smaller, extra, pieces that I used on the floor under the rear self area.
I then glued all of the carpet down, except: the floor pieces under the seats (these pieces fit very well without any glue); the floor pieces for the driver and passenger (which will be held down with snaps); and also the transmission tunnel. This way I can remove these pieces as needed and clean them, and clean under them.
I will need to buy some sort of padding material for the transmission tunnel. Currently this piece is a bit wavy and uneven on the top side between the shifter and the heater box area. I am thinking about gluing the padding material to the underside of the trans tunnel carpet. In summary, the trans carpet will be easily lifted out if I need to get to the 2 access panels.
This
quote:
Originally posted by jameshoward
Bob,
I would have thought that the sheet is a moisture membrane, the same thing that sits between the door panels and the working gubbins of the door (window, winder, etc). As you know, the drain tubes from the soft top box run through that area and release water into the sills directly below and in line with where the plastic sheet is. The plastic is probably there just to stop any water running into or getting blown into the interior when the car is driving at speed. (Which seems likely given the poor design of drainage from the soft top box - it's worth checking the condition of the tubes/drainage holes whilst you're there).
I also have a question for you. I am preparing to replace my carpets and would like to know what you used under them. I have purchased the correct MB bitumen/tar pads to go on the floor pan. I then intended to put down some form of felt sound deadening material, followed by the carpet.
Having seen the bitumen pads, I can't see that they add anything and will only get my new floor all messy. I also don't want to glue them down.
Instead, I was thinking that I could use self adhesive dynamat straight onto the metal, followed by some additional thin felt carpet (as MB origiginally did according to SLS in Hamburg) followed by the carpet. That's for the floor mats. Elsewhere, I am thinking that I could just use dynamat then perhaps glue the carpet onto that. Would glueing onto dynamat work?
Can you advise on a sensible way forward given your experiences?
Thanks.
James
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
What type of adhesive did you use for the carpet? I am putting Dynamat extreme against the metal but don't know what will work best for the carpet-to-dynamat connection. Also, what did you use to adhere the carpet to the soft top compartment along the back(carpet to metal connection.)
Thanks!
Steve
Steve Iatrou
Seaside, CA
1964 230sl roadster
White (050)/Black (116)
-
Hi Steve,
I used 3M General Trim Adhesive (Clear PN #08088). I purchased this at a local automotive paint store. Not cheap at $13 per spray can, but great stuff! I used this for all areas, including the rear area of the softtop compartment. Spray on the carpet, spray on the metal, wait 1 to 3 mins, then stick the carpet on.
The procedure to glue on each of the side foot well pieces is to "dry" fit it first. Make sure the carpet is fully inserted into the aluminum strips. Use masking tape to hold down the carpet along the aluminum strips. Then spray on the glue starting at the bottom section, along the well area. Dont glue the area that slides into the aluminum strip.
I think the hardest area to install, glue, was the back area along the softtop compartment. Very awkard! Again, dry fit it and hold it in place on the top with masking tape. The start gluing a small section on the right side. Wait for glue to dry, then continue moving left...
I also used a small roller tool that one would use for installing wall paper.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Take some pics and post for the forum. Would love to see them!
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by sjiatrou
What type of adhesive did you use for the carpet? I am putting Dynamat extreme against the metal but don't know what will work best for the carpet-to-dynamat connection. Also, what did you use to adhere the carpet to the soft top compartment along the back(carpet to metal connection.)
Thanks!
Steve
Steve Iatrou
Seaside, CA
1964 230sl roadster
White (050)/Black (116)
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
-
Bob:
Thanks! The car is currently having the passenger floor pans replaced (a bit of rust at the seam that made no sense to cover with new carpet! Mercifully, this was the only rust I discovered after ripping up the old carpet and insulation.) I'll take pix of the carpet install project and post as soon as I can.
Steve
Steve Iatrou
Seaside, CA
1964 230sl roadster
White (050)/Black (116)