Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: merrill on July 30, 2006, 12:38:53
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so, i searched for starter and really didn't find the topic I was looking for, maybe i did not look hard enough.
Here is my question,, is replacing the starter on a 66 230 as much as a pain as it appears?
I believe the car has the original starter and while I am working to make it road worthy I might as well install a new or rebuilt starter.
thanks in advance
matt
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I did not find it too dificult to replace the one on my 64 230 SL
Daryl
'64 230 SL
Serial # 508
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Matt,
quote:
Removal of the starter is not that difficult if you remove the access cover on the tunnel inside the car. The top starter bolt can now be loosened with a ratchet handle with 10mm allen stud. The lower starter bolt is loosened from below and the wires can be unhooked before or as the starter is lowered .
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Its also a good time to think about changing to a later, higher HP starter.
naj
68 280SL
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Out of curiosity, I just went to look at the "access panel" on the tunnel. Is it the one on the top of the tunnel? frontwards of the shifter? For some reason, I imagined it on the side? Or is it down lower, almost to the floor. All I see is a bunch of large bolts. Am I getting warmer?
Updated: I found the side access panel hidden behind the rubber insulation. Much smaller than I imagined. After opening it and the upper panel -- it sure looks tight in there. What exactly is it that one can do from here. I see some linkage of some sort and maybe a solenoid? Sorry, I'm just curious.
James
63 230SL
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The access panel is on the right side of the transmission tunnel. After you have it off you can see the top starter bolt. I taped my allen socket onto the extension (1 of 3 extensions if I remember correctly)so as not to knock it off while slipping it in there. The bottom starter bolt is accessed from beneath the car. Be sure not to overtighten the positive cable on the solenoid, the post can be cracked.
Good luck, all in all not too bad of a job.
Ed Fisher
Dallas, Texas
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James - the (3-position) solenoid and related linkage you see are likely for your automatic transmission. With the plate off, this is how you check that it operates freely and properly given the right (electrical) inputs.
Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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does anyone remember what size allen is need to remove the top bolt on the starter?
will try to remove mine tomorrow
thanks
matt
Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
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Matt,
quote:
does anyone remember what size allen is need to remove the top bolt on the starter?
10mm same as for the cyl head I believe.
naj
68 280SL
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Matt,
if you decide to replace it the model number for a refurbished Bosch starter is SR 59X. I bought one recently from http://www.sasponline.com/ for $130 (free shipping) plus return of the old one. It comes with 1 year warranty and 24 hour roadside assistance for 2 years from Bosch. You also need to buy a new 10mm hexcap bolt (at least 90 mm long) and nut since on the new starter the lower bolt hole is drilled through.
Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic
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All,
so, I was able to remove the old starter today, but I needed help.
I used the long 10mm hex tool I bought from samstag sales to re torque the head to remove the starter.
After removing the access panel in the tranny tunnel, I was able to remove the top bold easily. the lower one turned out to be a bear.
the tranny dipstick tube and the tranny vacuum tube would not allow me access to the lower allen bolt. With the help of my stepson we put a universal joint and an extension on the long hex, he guided it thru the tunnel while I was under the car helping line everything up.
needless to say, after about 5 minutes we were able to get the starter out.
I know now that the first component I will re install when the tranny and motor are returned will be the starter. that way I will have access to both bolts.
should I just have the old one rebuilt or spring for the sr 59x?
mine works ok, but since I am having everything else rebuild I figured I might as well replace or rebuild the starter.
matt
Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
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quote:
Originally posted by merrill
All,
so, I was able to remove the old starter today, but I needed help.
I used the long 10mm hex tool I bought from samstag sales to re torque the head to remove the starter.
After removing the access panel in the tranny tunnel, I was able to remove the top bold easily. the lower one turned out to be a bear.
the tranny dipstick tube and the tranny vacuum tube would not allow me access to the lower allen bolt. With the help of my stepson we put a universal joint and an extension on the long hex, he guided it thru the tunnel while I was under the car helping line everything up.
needless to say, after about 5 minutes we were able to get the starter out.
I know now that the first component I will re install when the tranny and motor are returned will be the starter. that way I will have access to both bolts.
should I just have the old one rebuilt or spring for the sr 59x?
mine works ok, but since I am having everything else rebuild I figured I might as well replace or rebuild the starter.
matt
Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
Matt
I did some research on replacing/rebuilding my starter and I believe that most places just give you a new one and deduct a "core" deposit, meaning you send in your old one.
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Matt
quote:
should I just have the old one rebuilt or spring for the sr 59x?
I would spring for the sr59x if its the later 1.5kw motor.
The original was 0.8kw.
Bosch seem to have a different x-ref system for exchange units in the US. In Europe, the Bosch # for the 1.5kw starter is: 0 986 010 850 if it helps.
naj
68 280SL
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The later starter also has the extra terminal that allows for by-pass of the ballast resistor at start up.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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I need to see which starter I removed from the car.
Mine has 3 terminals, only 2 were used.
on the back on the seleniod there are terminals as 9, 12 and 3 o clock.
the 12 o clock connection is the large terminal lugs from the positive side of the batt.
9 o clock was a amall wire
3 o clock was not connected to anything.
I do not think I have the 59 x as both the upper and lower mounting bolts were the 10 mm hex bolts which threaded into the starter itself.
matt
Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
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Well,
I received my replacement bosch SR 59X starter today. thought I would post some photos for everyone.
The photo marked front shows the front of the statter where it installs. The new starter is basically the same as the original starter, except for the lower bolt hole is drilled thru and is not threaded. per other posts below I will need to purchase another longer bolt with washer and nut.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) front.jpg.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/merrill/2007115171547_front.jpg.jpg)
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The photo marked connections shows the terminals where the wiring harness connects. the large lug in the center of the seneloid is the same. the old starter has one terminal about 9 pm, the terminal block is markde 50.
the new starter has 2 terminals one about 9 pm also marked 50 and then one about 11 marked 15 a. I assume this is the extra terminal for bypassing the ballast resistor when starting.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) connectinos.jpg.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/merrill/2007115171634_connectinos.jpg.jpg)
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Also, the new starter is much smaller and lighter than the old starter. there are no markings as to the hp output on the starter or the box.
hope this is informative
matt
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230