Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: DavidBrough on July 17, 2006, 05:36:29

Title: Sealing Injection Lines
Post by: DavidBrough on July 17, 2006, 05:36:29

Hi Guys, I am in the process of installing my rebuilt engine and actually managed to get it started yesterday, however, most of the injection lines were leaking. Is there a knack/trick in getting them to seal properly?

Title: Re: Sealing Injection Lines
Post by: Cees Klumper on July 17, 2006, 15:03:17

What I do is, when tightening them down, I 'wiggle' them into the best-fit position, then torque them down. This seems to have always worked for me.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Title: Re: Sealing Injection Lines
Post by: DavidBrough on July 18, 2006, 00:39:52

Thanks Cees,what torque setting do you use? I can find references to the injectors and IP connectors but not the lines.

Title: Re: Sealing Injection Lines
Post by: Raymond on July 18, 2006, 02:36:45

David, welcome to Frustration 101.  Murphy's Law 102 is a pre-requisite.  The lines on the pump end are so close together you'll find that the one that leaks is always the one you can't get a wrench on.  When you get it to stop leaking, the one you had to disconnect to get to it will leak.  Eventually you will find that if you hold your mouth right, stand on one leg, and hum the proper zen chant, they'll all work without leaks.  If it gets really bad, go to Frustration 102- Sacrificing a Chicken.  The cylinder side connections are easier.

Cees is right.  As you tighten them, it helps to wiggle them a bit, and I pull up on the lines slightly while tightening.  Make sure that the flange and seat are both absolutely clean and smooth.  If the connector is not seated perfectly, greater tightening will not help. The proper torque is tight enough to not leak and not so tight that you break them.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

Title: Re: Sealing Injection Lines
Post by: DavidBrough on July 19, 2006, 12:07:41

Thanks Cees & Ray, finally got the lines to seal after removing everything and carefully re cleaning all ends with emery paper. I found the best way to tighten them down was to loose off the nuts several times which allowed progressively more turn and helped to seat them better. In the end I still had two connections weeping but was able to seal them by loosening and tightening several times. I found the best spanner was a crows foot and long breaker bar as the torque was much easier to control, just gently does it. Next job is to do the same with some weeping oil lines!