Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Miloslav Maun on January 15, 2006, 13:11:57
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I have the engine out of the car for painting. What would you recommend to do to it? It did not have any problems before. It ran fine.
I plan to have the valve cover seal changed. The transmission also needs to be opened because of a worn synchro ring. But the engine itself did not have any issues...
I wonder if there any "if-I'm-already-there" task list... 8)
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rear main seal , front seal , chain , water pump
1971 280sl
1962 VW
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa
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Replace the front transmission seal would be a good idea as well, particularly if you are installing the rear engine seal.
Ken
'66 230SL
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Hello Muf,
I agree with Erick, also check motor mounts and the verticle timing gear.
The problem with replacing the rear engine seal is the oil pan and the crankshaft must be removed to replace the upper half of the seal!!! Lots of work. You may just want to replace the front engine seal, no oil pan and crankshaft removal.
You probably will find that the sychros in the transmission are fine. The gear cluster becomes loose and causes hard shifting and some gears to nip. Sychros do not usually wear on these transmissions. Replace them all anyway they are inexpensive.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe I was told by an old school mercedes mechanic that most of the time it is the bottom half of the rear main seal that goes bad is this so?
could we add a little more than the BBB says of seal on each side to compensate for the leak and not replace the top part?
1971 280sl
1962 VW
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa
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mounts of the subframe too ?
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Hello Erick,
I have never tried just the bottom half, but I guess this does seem logical.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe, I suspect the synchros because it is about the same symptoms like on my Porsche 911 transmission (the 915 type) - this was repaired by replacing the synchro rings.
The tranny grinds when shifting from the 1st to the 2nd (and also from the 3rd to the 2nd). This is really so bad that you must either wait till the motor revs fall down or double clutch. I know that the porsche transmission uses different type of synchro rings (the porsche system) but I do not know what else could make those scary sounds apart from synchros. Well, I hope the mechanic whom I give the tranny to rebuild will know :-)
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quote:
The gear cluster becomes loose and causes hard shifting and some gears to nip. Sychros do not usually wear on these transmissions. Replace them all anyway they are inexpensive
..........what is the remedy for a loose gear cluster ? Do you just replaced the bearings, shim it all up and ensure the rear output shaft nut is correctly torqued and locked with the Tab washer ?
The transmission tour we spoke of previously looks a bit more important now since it seems a few of us want to work on our manual boxes !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Hi Muf,
I agree with all of the above comments. But just would like to add a few of my own.
Since the engine is out why don't you powdercoat the parts that need it, and spray the black bits(power steering unit,steering column,and all small black bits and pieces) with black semi gloss paint. The right combination is 60% gloss to 40% matting agent.This will give you the right texture and sheen, as I did it on my car a year ago.
Why not since the engine is out.And you can give it a real cleaning with STP Engine cleaner.
Once you do that, your engine will be much fresher and once it's back in place you'll have yourself a great feeling of self satisfaction.And belive me the result is worth the effort.
Regards,
Andre Morcos(UAE)
1964 230 Sl
1960 220 Seb
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Imput shaft should have next to zero end play. Any amount of end play affects shifting. I use synthetic trans fluid which greatly aids in smooth shifting.
The front seal can not be replaced without a special installation tool - I made my own.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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I plan to have the whole transmission resealed. So I buy the complete seal set for the tranny.
But I do not understand the motor stuff much. Could someone of you be so kind please and tell me what are the parts numbers. I think I will order the seals at SLS Hamburg. They have a nice catalogue at http://www.sls-hh-catalogue.de/bin/dbframes.phtml?mid=IN02 . Just a simple copy&paste the Artikel #
Especially not sure what the "rear main seal", "front seal"is
BTW: The motor mounts are reportedly still OK so I am not going to replace those. Of course that I wish to have all the origonally black parts to be repainted black again. No question about it.
Thank you all for help! :-)
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quote:
The front seal can not be replaced without a special installation tool - I made my own.
Thanks Dan..........interestingly I replaced my front seal without any special tool...................now it leaks !! :oops:
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.