Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: lreppond on July 16, 2025, 20:43:57
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I went to the gas station this morning but couldn’t remove my gas cap. When in the locked position, it spins freely as it should. When in the unlocked position the outer portion of the cap won’t lock up allowing me to twist it to the left to remove. It holds in place until I apply even the slighest torque at which point it spins. Anyone else experience this? How did you end up removing it. With the cost of these caps I hate to destroy it but I’m at whits end.
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I put a new cork seal on my cap a few years ago and once in, I could not get it to turn to come off. The cork was/is a slight bit thicker than the original seal. What I did was to use white grease on the seal, so now it comes off easy. When I am turning it at take off, the key is still in and it is in the unlock position, which it keeps the cap from spinning freely. When you turn key to unlock, and add some torque, does it still spin freely? If so the lock tumbler is the problem.
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I put a new cork seal on my cap a few years ago and once in, I could not get it to turn to come off. The cork was/is a slight bit thicker than the original seal. What I did was to use white grease on the seal, so now it comes off easy. When I am turning it at take off, the key is still in and it is in the unlock position, which it keeps the cap from spinning freely. When you turn key to unlock, and add some torque, does it still spin freely? If so the lock tumbler is the problem.
I’ve tried it with the key left in and taken out. The cap just keeps slipping. It’s not a free spin as when in the open position but when left torque is applied it slips rather than spinning. I’ve tried pulling when twisting and pushing while twisting to no avail. Whatever mechanism that holds the outer cap stationary when unlocked seems to have failed.
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Len
I had the same issue. My problem was that I was not able to get enough leverage on the cap to get it to turn because the seal was too tight and the positioning of the cap makes it difficult to get purchase. What ended up working for me was to put on a close fitting rubber glove (what a mechanic or a surgeon might use) - that helped make a non-slip connection with the gas cap. Keep a glove or two in the trunk - has worked every time.
Good luck.
Cheers
John
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Len
I had the same issue. My problem was that I was not able to get enough leverage on the cap to get it to turn because the seal was too tight and the positioning of the cap makes it difficult to get purchase. What ended up working for me was to put on a close fitting rubber glove (what a mechanic or a surgeon might use) - that helped make a non-slip connection with the gas cap. Keep a glove or two in the trunk - has worked every time.
Good luck.
Cheers
John
I have no issues gripping it. The problem is that when unlocked, ratchets should engage the outer chrome portion of the cap to the inner portion which then allows you to twist the cap off. The ratchets are either worn down or the spring that pushes them out isn't functioning properly. Much as I hate to, I’m afraid I’ll have to destroy my cap to be able to remove it. If you’ve looked at the price of these lately you’ll understand why I don’t want to do that. I may have no choice.
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For what it is worth, I am not at the car now, but in this kind of situation any, even silly, thought may give a clue…
When you study how the cap works in our Technical Manual, you may conclude that the little tab that locks the chrome part is not getting fully in.
Perhaps it is possible, having taped surround of the cap with masking tape not to scratch the paint:
- turn the chrome and feel when it slightly engages - the may be the place where the tab is aligned with where it needs to get in to lock the chrome
- try to tap the cap - maybe it will go in
- bend wire to make a hook with a short bent part and try to find the hole under gasket to push in the tab
When you look in the Manual you will see what I am after.
Hope someone will chime in who did unlock the cap in this situation…
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Alternatively: if you are able to locate one of the two holes under the gasket, I would try to insert a, say, 2mm punch (or small screwdriver or a pick or L shaped pick with lower part of the L cut to 2mm) and tap it with a small hammer to turn the cap left to undo it.
I think locking is only between chromed crown and the core of the cap so the point is to skip the chrome crown and turn the core. These holes are in the core.
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Hello Len,
I have experienced this same (very frustrating!) issue with my locking gas cap. (Mine is the late 280SL version that uses the same key as the ignition, doors, trunk and glove box.) I was able to resolve it by turning the key in the locked and unlocked position a few times, while also rotating the cap until the cap finally caught on. I think the problem is somehow related to the lock cylinder moving slightly in and out as you turn the key. When it first happened I panicked and thought I may be forced to ruin the cap (which is NLA and extremely expensive!), but now know how to handle it. Feel free to pm me if you want to discuss details.
Lakis
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Pawel & Lakis,
Both of you understand what the problem is. I’m about to go to the garage and try your suggestions. Working on this isn’t easy because there is very little space and the fear of collateral damage!
Pawel: the idea of tapping the outer cap to attempt to engage the locking teeth may work. I’ve also thought of getting a thin metal shim and trying to cram between the inner and outer caps. Last night I tried placing superglue between them. All failed because of lack of access space.
Lakis: if your solution works in my situation it’ll be wonderful. I’m going to try it first since it’s the easiest and least invasive/damaging.
Will report back later.
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I would make sure I understand how it all works first (I am not sure if I do correctly).
If it does not go by wiggling the key, I would remove the lamp, tape the fuel neck around and try to locate the hole under gasket. To turn you have to overcome friction of the gasket and spring load.
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If you have no luck with turning the cap and the key at the same time, as Lakis suggests, then it looks to me that one of the small holes Pawel mentions actually releases the chrome spinning top from the locking part of the cap, have a look in the tech manual. The only problem, apart from the difficult access when it's on the car, is that the gasket covers the holes, so you'll need to search with a mirror behind the cap to find the correct hole
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/LockingGasCap
The top seems to come away quite easily, the member on here found it came apart when dropped, it exposes what i guess is the spring loaded locking bolt, which i assume is what engages when unlocked
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=34169.msg250137#msg250137
Good luck!
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I tried both Pawel and Lakis’ suggestions to no avail. My level of patience only lasts for 15 minutes and then I have to walk away.
Bob: funny thing you should mention the outer cap falling off easily. My mechanic said that if you put enough force on it’ll pop off. Of course my arthritic shoulders and fingers have left my strength somewhat compromised. But before I hire a flat bed to drive it to the shop, I’ll give it a try
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I thought i'd go and have a look at how easy it would be to access the hole that releases the spinning top from the body of the cap, and what do you know, i don't have these holes on my cap, either the earlier caps didn't have them, or else i can't guess why mine is different from the one in the tech manual
However, i think with a mirror and some magic, and someone with small hands and some dexterity, a 90 degree spiked tool, similar to a dentist pick, could move the gasket aside, and could then penetrate the hole and release the spinning top
Let's hope your cap has the hole
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Just a thought...
If it's possible to get to the gasket enough to move it aside, perhaps it could be cut, then pulled out (with needle-nosed pliers or a hemostat or ?). Once the gasket was pulled out, I suspect it would be easy to turn the inside part of the cap.
-David
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For what is worth, before I would do anything else, I would spray penetrating oil everywhere possible, including the key hole. The mechanism might just be hanging up. Also, be patient and wait overnight before trying the gas cap again. Sorry if this is a repeat or you have already thought of this.
Mark
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Thanks to all for your suggestions. Still no luck but I know I’ll eventually figure this out.
Bob: using a dental mirror I see no holes under the gasket. I dont think the two sided key ones had these holes.
David: havent tried removing the gasket yet. It’ll at least give me a little more wiggle room.
Mark: I sprayed it with white lithium grease (both key & mechanism). Waiting to see if it helps.
Len
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Len, I really feel for you on the problem you are having. I wish you good luck in resolving it.
John
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Irrepond,
Wow that is a really stuck position.
Follow Pawel and tap on the cap with the key in lock position and unlock position a few times. Most likely the tabs inside that lock the chrome portion from the inner portion are corroded and not moving enough.
Tapping will help move them.
Might also try spraying brake/carburator cleaner into the keyhole with the plastic tube to get the gunk inside loosened.
Then tapping again a bit harder with a plastic head mallet, not to damage the chrome. Iron or Steel hammers will damage the chrome, copper won't(bit harder to find), like the older British cars with the knockoff wheels.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL diesel
1969 280SE
2003 Beetle TDI
2005 Honda Element
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If it can help...?
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I have my original cap in the drawer, I will get there Monday…. Late, you will have it done by then, I am sure.
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If it can help...?
Maybe I am wrong, but:
1. The key turns the tumbler
2. Tumbler turns and offers space for the locking tab you see in the chrome part to move in and engage the with the core/inner part
3. This engagement requires alignment not only in horizontal, but also in vertical dimension.
4. When you find by feel where is the engagement moment in the horizontal dimension, the new part may be fiddling the key and tumbler up and down to match the horizontal dimension as well
So not only left and right but also up and down may be important…
I think…
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If it can help...?
Fantastic pic! I've not seen the inside before. And, on the part on the left, you can see the two holes people have referenced. On the perimeter, near top and bottom.
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I have essentially tried everything I can think of and still can’t remove the cap. Knowing how the locking mechanism works has been helpful in trying different strategies but nothing has worked. At this point I’m really afraid of damaging the filler neck and doing more damage than just the cap.
Since it lacks sufficient gas to get me to my normal shop, I’ll get a flatbed to transport it there on Monday.
No one needs this level of frustration in their life!
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Looking at piece A in the picture the sliding tab may have broken where it is thinner. The broken piece would not slide in to engage one of the tabs in B. If you can get a paper clip into the channel and force the piece towards the center of the cap it may give you one shot at engaging a tab on piece B.
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Thank you for the suggestion. The space between the outer and inner cap is too small to allow the clip to fit. This was one of the first thing I tried.
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On the A part, i had some issues with the spring which actuate the sliding tab, it go out its location very easily....!
And may be the missing part i made is not functionnal?
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Can you find the edges in the bottom of the inner piece under the gasket?
Is it possible to stick a pinch or screwdriver against one of these edges and drive the cap open with a hammer?
The inner part where these edges are is locked to fuel neck only by spring force and gasket friction, nothing else…
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As a very last resort, if the garage can't fix the problem, a very small hole drilled in the side of the knurled part of the spinning top, into the body of the cap, and insert a small pin, to lock the parts together, hopefully will be inobtrusive
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On the A part, i had some issues with the spring which actuate the sliding tab, it go out its location very easily....!
And may be the missing part i made is not functionnal?
I suspect it is the spring that is causing this problem. Probably out of alignment and therefore not pushing the tab far enough to get a positive lock between the outer and inner cap.
BobH’s idea of drilling through the outer and inner caps and locking them together by screw or nail seems like the only solution left. I am anxious about drilling through metal so close to gasoline!
Pawel's idea of driving the cap off with a punch or screwdriver is a good one except there is absolutely no room to do it.
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I'm thinking a Dremel type drill and a micro drill bit, slow and steady, i don't think there'd be a problem
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304127197709?_skw=dremel+micro+drill&itmmeta=01K0HRN6B74CZ7J35DTYNHZ7K1&hash=item46cf64c20d:g:gfwAAOSwNPVhLYbg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fD4pWEihJJL2SP5o7vpRqwKSiO6okIN80n1s2F8cEONiuXxgmfMx0z%2BN5IiMfdCuB%2FQhmhXwGlpAbIuAgC1R7%2FyA7wPIhvMxG8xpbOQS6pUOIcY5ekXh8Xf1q9fYePVsWBHgXytMXU5gVn0c362hhmiMhzDdMMO6c5WrORwMvXGi%2FFy0o9RhOpIsYKADCJgfZOTwmWMXC8FF0cyOJxnPx8b0rurCaLKM4x%2FkM4F0tJDlyYc2v3aj3ol8UD3xYPw7g%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUOrl1LiEZg
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Hello Len, Have you removed the Bumper? you might have more room to get to the cap from the bottom especially if you will be using a power tool to drill.
John
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Keep thinking about it, for what it is worth…
If you could find something to squeeze the sides of the chrome cap so that they rest against the inner piece and try to turn it… like a large vice grip.
Te investment for removing surrounding parts, such as bumper, lamp, maybe register plates lamp trim may really be worth considering.
I would make sure, as 49er is suggesting, before any drilling, to check if surrounding parts removal is not opening opportunities to use some other opening method than destruction.
If you have original key to use with the cap, the tumbler is the part to protect, more than a chrome cap.
Sorry if I am saying obvious things…
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Another silly thought: is there a hope for some space and access from inside the trunk?
Removing the cover, prying out the rubber seal should open the hole in the trunk wall so that you can see the cap from its bottom side. Not sure if there is enough space to stick anything there and try to turn the cap…
Anyway: maybe removing the rubber seal that seals the fuel filler tube to the body may offer some access, as I look at the pictures.
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In the photo #18 i Said an error🙄 in that location of the sliding tab ,the part A Turin WITH the B part and you can open thé cap.
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The car is at the shop I use for gas cap removal and a few misc chores that need to be done. Hopefully they will have better luck than I did!
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For all of you who made suggestions and provided encouragement: a big thank you!
A new gas cap the locks and unlocks!
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Excellent news!
Ok, do not be difficult...
How did they remove the cap?
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Excellent news!
Ok, do not be difficult...
How did they remove the cap?
They removed it with a screw driver and a hammer! According to my mechanic “all it took was a couple of good whacks!” And they were able to back it off. I didnt ask for any further explanation. Wish me luck with the new cap.
Even though I was unable to remove it, I truly appreciate the generous advice you provided. You’re a true asset to this forum.
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So they have driven it off by turning the inner piece with a screwdriver and a hammer.
We now have a possible way forward here on the Forum.
Quite honestly, you need to be "fluent" in this kind of work to do it - to get it done and not scratch anything. Sometimes it is just better to give it to the mechanic who knows how to use a hammer. I would hesitate to do it myself probably.
Good you got it done!
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Len, thanks for letting us know how they dealt with it. How did you get a new gas cap with the logo on it ? Those are like hen’s teeth to find
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Len, thanks for letting us know how they dealt with it. How did you get a new gas cap with the logo on it ? Those are like hen’s teeth to find
Over the last couple of years I’ve bought 3 w/logos. Why? No clue but it has turned out to be convenient. Two are the double sided key ways but I’ve yet to find anyone who can key them to my car. I even have a box of HF wafers. It’s just a matter of opening them up and accessing the tumbler.
Filled my tank this AM. So nice. Going to the tire shop to get a new set of WW’s mounted.
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Any preventive maintenance we could perform on our original caps to extend their life?
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Any preventive maintenance we could perform on our original caps to extend their life?
Good question, and I look forward to seeing the forthcoming answers.
To most folks, a gas cap is "screw it on and forget it" thing. Our gas caps are a piece of automotive jewelry that likely would benefit from occasional care and attention.
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Did you perform a necropsy on the old cap to determine the removal problem?
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Was it the tab spring which have failed?
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Good question, and I look forward to seeing the forthcoming answers.
I should start a separate thread.
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Over the last couple of years I’ve bought 3 w/logos. Why? No clue but it has turned out to be convenient. Two are the double sided key ways but I’ve yet to find anyone who can key them to my car. I even have a box of HF wafers. It’s just a matter of opening them up and accessing the tumbler.
Filled my tank this AM. So nice. Going to the tire shop to get a new set of WW’s mounted.
Len,
I have a guy that I believe can rekey your caps. PM me if interested
Tony