Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: lreppond on July 16, 2025, 20:43:57
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I went to the gas station this morning but couldn’t remove my gas cap. When in the locked position, it spins freely as it should. When in the unlocked position the outer portion of the cap won’t lock up allowing me to twist it to the left to remove. It holds in place until I apply even the slighest torque at which point it spins. Anyone else experience this? How did you end up removing it. With the cost of these caps I hate to destroy it but I’m at whits end.
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I put a new cork seal on my cap a few years ago and once in, I could not get it to turn to come off. The cork was/is a slight bit thicker than the original seal. What I did was to use white grease on the seal, so now it comes off easy. When I am turning it at take off, the key is still in and it is in the unlock position, which it keeps the cap from spinning freely. When you turn key to unlock, and add some torque, does it still spin freely? If so the lock tumbler is the problem.
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I put a new cork seal on my cap a few years ago and once in, I could not get it to turn to come off. The cork was/is a slight bit thicker than the original seal. What I did was to use white grease on the seal, so now it comes off easy. When I am turning it at take off, the key is still in and it is in the unlock position, which it keeps the cap from spinning freely. When you turn key to unlock, and add some torque, does it still spin freely? If so the lock tumbler is the problem.
I’ve tried it with the key left in and taken out. The cap just keeps slipping. It’s not a free spin as when in the open position but when left torque is applied it slips rather than spinning. I’ve tried pulling when twisting and pushing while twisting to no avail. Whatever mechanism that holds the outer cap stationary when unlocked seems to have failed.
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Len
I had the same issue. My problem was that I was not able to get enough leverage on the cap to get it to turn because the seal was too tight and the positioning of the cap makes it difficult to get purchase. What ended up working for me was to put on a close fitting rubber glove (what a mechanic or a surgeon might use) - that helped make a non-slip connection with the gas cap. Keep a glove or two in the trunk - has worked every time.
Good luck.
Cheers
John
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Len
I had the same issue. My problem was that I was not able to get enough leverage on the cap to get it to turn because the seal was too tight and the positioning of the cap makes it difficult to get purchase. What ended up working for me was to put on a close fitting rubber glove (what a mechanic or a surgeon might use) - that helped make a non-slip connection with the gas cap. Keep a glove or two in the trunk - has worked every time.
Good luck.
Cheers
John
I have no issues gripping it. The problem is that when unlocked, ratchets should engage the outer chrome portion of the cap to the inner portion which then allows you to twist the cap off. The ratchets are either worn down or the spring that pushes them out isn't functioning properly. Much as I hate to, I’m afraid I’ll have to destroy my cap to be able to remove it. If you’ve looked at the price of these lately you’ll understand why I don’t want to do that. I may have no choice.
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For what it is worth, I am not at the car now, but in this kind of situation any, even silly, thought may give a clue…
When you study how the cap works in our Technical Manual, you may conclude that the little tab that locks the chrome part is not getting fully in.
Perhaps it is possible, having taped surround of the cap with masking tape not to scratch the paint:
- turn the chrome and feel when it slightly engages - the may be the place where the tab is aligned with where it needs to get in to lock the chrome
- try to tap the cap - maybe it will go in
- bend wire to make a hook with a short bent part and try to find the hole under gasket to push in the tab
When you look in the Manual you will see what I am after.
Hope someone will chime in who did unlock the cap in this situation…
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Alternatively: if you are able to locate one of the two holes under the gasket, I would try to insert a, say, 2mm punch (or small screwdriver or a pick or L shaped pick with lower part of the L cut to 2mm) and tap it with a small hammer to turn the cap left to undo it.
I think locking is only between chromed crown and the core of the cap so the point is to skip the chrome crown and turn the core. These holes are in the core.
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Hello Len,
I have experienced this same (very frustrating!) issue with my locking gas cap. (Mine is the late 280SL version that uses the same key as the ignition, doors, trunk and glove box.) I was able to resolve it by turning the key in the locked and unlocked position a few times, while also rotating the cap until the cap finally caught on. I think the problem is somehow related to the lock cylinder moving slightly in and out as you turn the key. When it first happened I panicked and thought I may be forced to ruin the cap (which is NLA and extremely expensive!), but now know how to handle it. Feel free to pm me if you want to discuss details.
Lakis
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Pawel & Lakis,
Both of you understand what the problem is. I’m about to go to the garage and try your suggestions. Working on this isn’t easy because there is very little space and the fear of collateral damage!
Pawel: the idea of tapping the outer cap to attempt to engage the locking teeth may work. I’ve also thought of getting a thin metal shim and trying to cram between the inner and outer caps. Last night I tried placing superglue between them. All failed because of lack of access space.
Lakis: if your solution works in my situation it’ll be wonderful. I’m going to try it first since it’s the easiest and least invasive/damaging.
Will report back later.
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I would make sure I understand how it all works first (I am not sure if I do correctly).
If it does not go by wiggling the key, I would remove the lamp, tape the fuel neck around and try to locate the hole under gasket. To turn you have to overcome friction of the gasket and spring load.
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If you have no luck with turning the cap and the key at the same time, as Lakis suggests, then it looks to me that one of the small holes Pawel mentions actually releases the chrome spinning top from the locking part of the cap, have a look in the tech manual. The only problem, apart from the difficult access when it's on the car, is that the gasket covers the holes, so you'll need to search with a mirror behind the cap to find the correct hole
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/LockingGasCap
The top seems to come away quite easily, the member on here found it came apart when dropped, it exposes what i guess is the spring loaded locking bolt, which i assume is what engages when unlocked
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=34169.msg250137#msg250137
Good luck!
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I tried both Pawel and Lakis’ suggestions to no avail. My level of patience only lasts for 15 minutes and then I have to walk away.
Bob: funny thing you should mention the outer cap falling off easily. My mechanic said that if you put enough force on it’ll pop off. Of course my arthritic shoulders and fingers have left my strength somewhat compromised. But before I hire a flat bed to drive it to the shop, I’ll give it a try
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I thought i'd go and have a look at how easy it would be to access the hole that releases the spinning top from the body of the cap, and what do you know, i don't have these holes on my cap, either the earlier caps didn't have them, or else i can't guess why mine is different from the one in the tech manual
However, i think with a mirror and some magic, and someone with small hands and some dexterity, a 90 degree spiked tool, similar to a dentist pick, could move the gasket aside, and could then penetrate the hole and release the spinning top
Let's hope your cap has the hole
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Just a thought...
If it's possible to get to the gasket enough to move it aside, perhaps it could be cut, then pulled out (with needle-nosed pliers or a hemostat or ?). Once the gasket was pulled out, I suspect it would be easy to turn the inside part of the cap.
-David
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For what is worth, before I would do anything else, I would spray penetrating oil everywhere possible, including the key hole. The mechanism might just be hanging up. Also, be patient and wait overnight before trying the gas cap again. Sorry if this is a repeat or you have already thought of this.
Mark
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Thanks to all for your suggestions. Still no luck but I know I’ll eventually figure this out.
Bob: using a dental mirror I see no holes under the gasket. I dont think the two sided key ones had these holes.
David: havent tried removing the gasket yet. It’ll at least give me a little more wiggle room.
Mark: I sprayed it with white lithium grease (both key & mechanism). Waiting to see if it helps.
Len
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Len, I really feel for you on the problem you are having. I wish you good luck in resolving it.
John
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Irrepond,
Wow that is a really stuck position.
Follow Pawel and tap on the cap with the key in lock position and unlock position a few times. Most likely the tabs inside that lock the chrome portion from the inner portion are corroded and not moving enough.
Tapping will help move them.
Might also try spraying brake/carburator cleaner into the keyhole with the plastic tube to get the gunk inside loosened.
Then tapping again a bit harder with a plastic head mallet, not to damage the chrome. Iron or Steel hammers will damage the chrome, copper won't(bit harder to find), like the older British cars with the knockoff wheels.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL diesel
1969 280SE
2003 Beetle TDI
2005 Honda Element
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If it can help...?