Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: acbrock on February 29, 2024, 16:36:10
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Ok, a rookie mistake. If I ever do one of these cars again or help anyone this will save HOURS and HOURS and HOURS of time.
I have removed everything from the dash and spent months fixing/cleaning. Everything is super close to being perfect but I felt like I wanted to put it all back in and see how it looks and then correct things. Showing my wife she asked when I was going to clean up the Chrome on the top of the Windshield. So after getting it all back in I started to remove those pieces. After about an hour I realized this is only possible by removing the Glass! Read a bunch of posts and of course that is the case and I never thought about that in the beginning. I had not planned to remove the windshield because the glass and seal was good. So now I have to, my big rookie mistake is not know this right off the bat. Accessing everything in the dash would have saved HOURS if I did not have the windshield in!
Ok enough of my groaning. My question is about removing the windshield. I read many different options. My only real question is do I HAVE to cut the Rubber to get it out? With the chrome stepping out there is some give. Can I just push it out (Carefully) in 1 piece or is the way these work is it sort of molds around the glass and makes it so you have to Cut it out? Seems like that would be the case so it did not fly out in an accident but just wanted to double check. I would hate to cut it all and then find out that was not necessary.
Thanks for any thoughts...
Aaron
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I always cut them out.
Be mindful though that the trim is anodised so you can't polish it without destroying the finish (although most people won't recognise the difference between polished and anodised aluminium).
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When I removed my windshield last year , as per joe, I removed the chrome moulding first. It came right out. I believe it was 2 pieces, I do not remember.
Then I have 2 sucking cups ( I saw professional windshield removers use them) I purchased 2 of them and placed one on each side of the windshield near the curve.
Then with a friend we lifted the cups and the glass started to come out.
Then I played with the rubber mouldings and the glass came out with the rubber mouldings.
It was easy.
The job took only about 30 minutes or less.
Tom
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Awesome. Thanks guys! And great tip on not polishing. That was going to be today’s job! So I will just clean it up.
I will report back only if I don’t break it! If I break it I am going delete this post!
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Awesome. Thanks guys! And great tip on not polishing. That was going to be today’s job! So I will just clean it up.
I will report back only if I don’t break it! If I break it I am going delete this post!
No you won't.... keeping the post in here as a quotation for posterity! :)
I'm sure you'll succeed!
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Success! Went with partial cut method just so I would not consider reusing the Rubber. I have to say that was one of the easier things I have done on the car. Did it by myself. I was completely shocked how light the windshield actually was. thought it was going to break my back but did not want to wait for my buddy to come over, ended up pulling out and hoisting it up over my head for the walk to is Temporary Living quarters. I cannot believe the access I have to the dash. I wish I did this DAY 1!
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Just a quick note, whether is it a good thing or even proper, I have used "Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish" to clean up aluminum trim e.g the door saddle trim pieces with much success. Whether these pieces would be considered anodized or not as noted by stickandrudderman I am not sure
JB
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The windscreen trim and the two shiny trims on sills on both sides, one on the outer part and one on the inner part where we step in from are all anodised aluminium. Apart from these pieces there are no more anodised aluminium parts on this car. Everything else is chrome.
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maybe the metal trim on each side of the car below the chrome trim with rubber inserts is also anodized?
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Success! Went with partial cut method just so I would not consider reusing the Rubber. I have to say that was one of the easier things I have done on the car. Did it by myself. I was completely shocked how light the windshield actually was. thought it was going to break my back but did not want to wait for my buddy to come over, ended up pulling out and hoisting it up over my head for the walk to is Temporary Living quarters. I cannot believe the access I have to the dash. I wish I did this DAY 1!
I did this few weeks ago, my procedure was I removed the shiny trim carefully with plastic trim remover pry tool and than ran a plastic hook tool on the inner part of the seal to loosen it up from the inside of the car all the way round, then gently pushed from the top corners and the screen came out, no cutting required.
I would only recommend using original MB seal as it is still available at Mercedes and its not too pricey.
see link below
https://classicparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-windshield-seal-1136710220?c=bD05Jm49Q2F0ZWdvcnkgUGFnZQ%3D%3D
(may be you already have this)
Now the tricky part is fitting it back in. You have to remove the wood trims on the dashboard (some may have done this without removing the wooden trims) as the new seal seems thicker/harder because its new and when strung in, the string will struggle to come out where the wood touches the seal from both corners which may damage the wooden trims if they are still in place so probably best to remove them in my opinion.
Also the chrome/aluminium surround needs to fitted to the seal/screen prior to stringing the screen to the body frame.
If you are refitting this yourself use lots of soapy water in a spray bottle or use window cleaner as lubricant as it helps putting things back in to place.
Refit is a 2 mans job.
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maybe the metal trim on each side of the car below the chrome trim with rubber inserts is also anodized?
No, they are chrome.
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Awesome thanks for the tips!
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As per what Pinder said, I can confirm that the trim pieces that run along the bottom edge of the doors and the trailing edge of the front guard/fender and the leading edge of the rear guard/fender (the ones held on by yellow and blue clips) are in fact aluminium.
I know this because I have recently had them polished and anodised.
Doug
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hey is there a spot on this site to Post things like this... Rookie mistakes? Because I just realized another one and would be great have a list of things not to do! I just realized that I put the heater core blower vents all of it back in but did not put the Plastic Vents above the heater core on the other side of the firewall first! So it took some time and crazy stretching to get them back in without pulling everything back out!
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Add it to the relevant section in Technical Manual with an Alert sign! For an example, check halfway down this page: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/SenderUnit
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Ok great Peter I will start gathering my Alerts! That was such an amazing link! I dont know who posted it but when I scrolled down I was totally confused because those are my pictures of the Fuel Sender that has all the buildup dumped out! My pictures are famous!